1. Conditioning for Alpine scrambling
Hillary Shearer
2019 Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling Course

2. Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling
Conditioning
The best way to train for an activity is to participate in the activity itself
5/11/2019
Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

3. What does it mean to be fit?
There are ten recognized general physical skills: cardiovascular/respiratory endurance, stamina, strength, flexibility, power, coordination, agility, balance, and accuracy. You are as fit as you are competent in each of these ten skills.
Fitness is about performing well at any and every task imaginable.
Second model of fitness: Picture a hopper loaded with an infinite number of physical challenges where no selective mechanism is operative, and being asked to perform fetes randomly drawn from the hopper. This model suggests that your fitness can be measured by your capacity to perform well at these tasks in relation to other individuals
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

4. Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling
Conditioning
Cardiovascular endurance assessment:
Can you hike Mount Si in under two hours with 15% - 20% of your body weight in your pack?
Basic strength assessment (one minute per exercise):
10+ dips
30+ situps
15+ pull-ups
30+ box step-ups
15+ push-ups
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

5. Cardiovascular Conditioning
A strong cardiovascular base is a prerequisite for all aspects of mountaineering
Aerobic exercise: requires a significant amount of oxygen for sustained effort
Anaerobic exercise: the zone you are working in when you are gasping for air (close to max heart rate)
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

6. Cardiovascular Conditioning
Training options
Treadmill, road, and trail running
Elliptical or stair climber
Hiking
Snowshoeing
Cross-country skiing
Step aerobics
Biking, swimming, rowing and paddling for cross-training and rehab
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

7. Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling
Strength Training
Prevents injuries
Improves balance
Enhances body composition
Strive to be stronger than you thinking will ever be necessary
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

8. Strength training for scramblers
Non-climbers tend to neglect their upper bodies
Focus on core work
Isolate limbs with unilateral free-weight exercises
Be aware of muscle imbalance (quads are stronger than glutes and hams, calves are stronger than shins…)
Work on mobility (increase range of motion) to correct any weaknesses and improve flexibility
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

9. Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling
Frequency
Depends largely on current fitness level and goals
ACSM and AHA recommend three to five 20+ minute aerobic workouts per weeks and two strength training workouts each week
Increase training volume by no more than 5 – 15% at any given time
Everyone needs a rest day
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

10. More does not mean better
Don’t be a weekend warrior!
Risk for sprains, strains, ruptures, overuse injuries…PAIN!
Conditioning shouldn’t be seasonal
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

11. Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling
Best practices
Learn to control your breathing and use the rest step
Fuel adequately for your activity level
Stretch, get a massage; stay limber (be a “supple leopard”)
Rest at least one day per week
Wear proper footwear for the activity
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Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling

12. Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling
Resources
Freedom of the Hills (8th Edition)
Training for the New Alpinism Steve House and Scott Johnston
5/11/2019
Everett Mountaineers Alpine Scrambling