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56 Chapter Engine Mechanical Problems
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Objectives After studying this chapter, you will be able to:
Explain why proper diagnosis methods are important to engine repair. List common symptoms of engine mechanical problems. Discuss how to find abnormal engine noises. Summarize procedures for gasoline and diesel engine compression testing.
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Objectives Explain when and how to do a cylinder leakage test.
Summarize common causes and corrections of engine mechanical problems. Perform an initial inspection, pressure tests, and electronic tests to determine the mechanical condition of major internal engine parts. Correctly answer ASE certification test questions on engine mechanical problems and corrections.
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Why Is Diagnosis Important?
If a technician does not know how to properly diagnose engine problems, time, effort, and money will be wasted An untrained technician may unnecessarily rebuild an entire engine assembly when a minor repair would have corrected the fault
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Common Engine Mechanical Problems
Excessive oil consumption Crankcase blowby Abnormal engine noises Engine smoking Poor engine performance Coolant in engine oil Engine lockup
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Engine Smoke Blue-gray engine smoke Black engine smoke
Engine oil entering combustion chambers Black engine smoke Caused by extremely rich air-fuel mixture, not engine mechanical problem White engine smoke May be due to internal coolant leaking into cylinders
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Engine Smoke (Cont.) Blue diesel smoke Black diesel smoke
Engine oil entering combustion chambers and burning Black diesel smoke Injection system problem, or low compression keeping fuel from burning White diesel smoke Result of unburned fuel, cold engine, or coolant leaking into combustion chambers
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Engine Pre-Teardown Inspection
Inspect engine using your senses Sight, smell, hearing, touch Look for external problems Oil leaks, vacuum leaks, part damage, contaminated oil, etc. If leak is found, smell fluid to determine if oil, coolant, or another type of fluid Listen for unusual noises
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Engine Pre-Teardown Inspection (Cont.)
Coolant in oil will show up as white or milky oil Caused by mechanical problem leaking engine coolant into engine crankcase Engine oil leaks Result of hardened or cracked gaskets, worn seals, loose fasteners, or damaged parts
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Engine Pre-Teardown Inspection (Cont.)
External coolant leaks Will show up as puddle of coolant Caused by hose problems, rusted freeze plugs, or warped, worn, or damaged parts Engine blowby Occurs when combustion pressure blows past piston rings, and into lower block and oil pan area of engine
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Engine Pre-Teardown Inspection (Cont.)
Engine vacuum leaks Show up during inspection as hissing sound, like air leaking out of a tire Engine exhaust leaks Show up as clicking sound around engine Indicates ruptured exhaust manifold gasket, warped exhaust manifold, or loose header nuts
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Abnormal Engine Noises
Hisses, knocks, rattles, clunks, popping May indicate part wear or damage Automotive stethoscope can be used to find internal sounds in parts If stethoscope is not available, use long screwdriver Sounds will travel through screwdriver the same way they do with a stethoscope
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Cranking Balance Test Looks for cylinders with low compression
Low compression may be due to burned engine valves, worn piston rings, or other engine mechanical problems
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Compression Test Compression test Compression gauge
Determines compression stroke pressure Compression gauge Measures compression stroke pressure during this test Frequently performed during a tune-up
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Compression Test (Cont.)
Problems that cause low engine compression Burned valve(s) Burned valve seat Physical engine damage, such as a hole in a piston, broken valve, and so on Blown head gasket Worn rings or cylinders Broken valve spring Insufficient valve clearance Jumped timing chain or belt
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Compression Test— Gasoline Engine
Remove all spark plugs so engine will crank easily Block open throttle plates to prevent restriction of airflow into engine Disable ignition system to prevent sparks from arcing out of disconnected spark plug wires or direct coils
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Compression Test— Gasoline Engine (Cont.)
Disable fuel injection system so gasoline will not spray into engine during cranking Screw compression gauge into one of spark plug holes Crank engine, allowing crankshaft to rotate for about six compression strokes Compare gauge readings to specifications
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Compression Test— Gasoline Engine (Cont.)
Gasoline engine compression readings Should be around 125–175 psi in each cylinder Readings must be within about 10–15% of each other
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Compression Test— Diesel Engine
Remove either injectors or glow plugs Refer to service manual for instructions Most suggest glow plug removal Install compression gauge in recommended hole Disconnect fuel shut-off solenoid to disable injection pump Crank engine about six compression strokes and note highest reading on gauge
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Compression Test— Diesel Engine (Cont.)
Diesel engine compression readings Average 275–400 psi depending on engine design and compression ratio
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Wet Compression Test Wet compression test
Should be performed in any cylinder with compression test reading below specifications To conduct a wet compression test Squirt tablespoon of SAE 30 engine oil into cylinder with low pressure reading Install compression gauge
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Wet Compression Test (Cont.)
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Dynamic Engine Compression Test
Dynamic engine compression test or running engine compression test Measures cylinder pressures with test gauge while engine is idling Run engine until it reaches full operating temperature Pull all spark plugs and complete normal compression test
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Dynamic Engine Compression Test (Cont.)
If you find cylinders with low compression during plug-out compression test, compression test conducted with engine running will not be necessary Complete running engine compression test if you suspect clogged engine intake or exhaust tract
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Dynamic Engine Compression Test (Cont.)
Install all but one spark plug back into engine cylinder heads Ground cylinder’s ignition coil secondary terminal to engine to prevent ICM or electronic module damage Disable electronic fuel injector for engine cylinder to be tested
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Dynamic Engine Compression Test (Cont.)
Install compression gauge in open spark plug hole Start and idle engine Observe gauge pressure reading every 5 or 6 compression strokes Open tool’s Schrader valve to “zero,” take gauge until you get consistent reading for 5 or 6 “puffs,” or gauge needle deflections
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Dynamic Engine Compression Test (Cont.)
Write down average pressure gauge reading after few engine compression strokes with engine running Rapidly open throttle valve lever on engine throttle body Increase engine speed to about 3000 rpms and then snap throttle closed
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Dynamic Engine Compression Test (Cont.)
With no air or exhaust restrictions, compression gauge readings should increase Engine running compression pressure at idle should be 50–75 psi About half cranking compression Snap throttle compression should be about 80% of cranking compression
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Cylinder Leakage Test Cylinder leakage test
Measures air leakage out of engine combustion chamber Hiss at intake manifold inlet Leaking or damaged intake valve, intake valve adjusted too tight, or broken intake valve spring
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Cylinder Leakage Test (Cont.)
Hiss at tailpipe Bent or burned exhaust valve, exhaust valve adjusted too tight, or broken exhaust valve spring Hiss at valve cover breather Worn piston rings, worn cylinder walls, blown head gasket, or burned piston
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Cylinder Leakage Test (Cont.)
Hiss around outside of head Blown head gasket, warped head or block deck, or cracked head or block Hiss from adjacent spark plug hole Blown head gasket, cracked head, or cracked block
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Vacuum Test Measures intake manifold vacuum and indicates engine condition Connect vacuum gauge to intake manifold vacuum fitting Warm engine Run engine at correct idle speed and read vacuum gauge Vacuum should be steady and within specifications, about 15″–17″ Hg
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Cylinder Balance Test Cylinder balance test Performed with tachometer
Disables spark plugs one cylinder at a time to find out if each cylinder is firing properly Performed with tachometer As you remove each wire, watch tachometer display Reading should drop equally as each cylinder is made inoperative
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Deciding What Type of Engine Repair Is Needed
After performing all necessary inspections and tests, decide what part or parts must be repaired or replaced to correct engine mechanical problem Evaluate all data from pre-teardown diagnosis If you still cannot determine exact problem, engine may have to be partially disassembled for further inspection
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Evaluating Engine Mechanical Problems
Explain function of each engine part Describe construction of each engine part Explain cause of engine problems Describe symptoms of major engine problems
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Evaluating Engine Mechanical Problems (Cont.)
Select appropriate methods to pinpoint specific problems Know which parts must be removed for certain repairs Know whether engine must be removed from vehicle before repair can be made
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Engine Gasket Problems
Blown head gasket can cause Overheating Engine misfiring Coolant or oil leakage Engine smoking Burned mating surfaces on cylinder head or block Part warpage Condition where sealing surfaces on part are not flat Common cause of gasket failure
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Cylinder Head Problems
Warped cylinder head Overheated and no longer true Cracked cylinder head May result from engine overheating Can leak coolant or combustion pressure Must be removed and welded, or replaced
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Valve Train Problems Valve train problems can cause Engine noise
Power loss Missing Rough idling Piston, cylinder, and head damage
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Valve Problems Valves open and close millions of times during engine life They must do this while sealing tremendous heat of combustion After extended service, various valve problems can develop (Sioux Tools)
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Valve Problems (Cont.) Sharp valve margin Dropped valve guide
Caused by valve face wear due to friction or from metal removal from valve grinding Dropped valve guide Broken free from press-fit in the head, allowing guide to fall down around head of the valve
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Valve Problems (Cont.) Stuck or frozen valve
Results when valve stem rusts or corrodes and locks in valve guide This can happen when engine sits in storage for extended period
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Valve Problems (Cont.)
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Camshaft Problems Camshaft problems include Lobe wear Journal wear
Camshaft breakage Camshaft drive failure
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Camshaft Problems (Cont.)
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Hydraulic Lifter or Tappet Problems
Produce valve train noise or light tapping sound from inside valve cover External lifter wear Results in bottom of lifter becoming concave due to friction between lifter and camshaft lobe Internal lifter wear Can prevent lifter from pumping to take up valve train clearance
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Rocker Arm Problems Rocker shaft wear Rocker stand wear
Results from friction between shaft and rocker arm Rocker stand wear Common problem when stand is aluminum Rocker arm or stand breakage Can occur if valve strikes piston from over-revving
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Valve Spring Problems Valve float
Weakened valve springs or excessive engine speed causes valves to remain partially open Engine may begin to miss, pop, or backfire as valves float Valve springs weaken after prolonged use Broken valve spring Will frequently let valve hang partially open or even be hit by piston head, which can result in bent valve
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Push Rod Problems Bent push rod Broken push rod Clogged push rod
Not straight and may be cracked, leading to oil pressure reduction Broken push rod Usually has small ball on end broken off Clogged push rod Internal oil hole restricted or blocked with hardened oil and sludge deposits
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Timing Mechanism Problems
Affect how camshaft rotates in relation to crankshaft to open valves at correct times Timing sprocket problems Common when sprocket has plastic teeth Plastic teeth can break off and cause timing chain slack
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Timing Mechanism Problems (Cont.)
Timing gear problems Most common problem is broken gear teeth Broken timing gear teeth Cause loud knocking noise from inside front cover Timing chain problems Upset valve timing, reducing compression stroke pressure and engine power
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Cylinder Block Problems
Cylinder block problems include Cracks Surface warpage Worn cylinders Mineral deposits in coolant Passages Misaligned main bores
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Cylinder Block Problems (Cont.)
Ring ridge Small lip or metal ridge formed at tops of cylinder walls where rings do not wear away metal Obvious sign of cylinder block wear
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Cylinder Block Problems (Cont.)
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Cylinder Block Problems (Cont.)
Cylinder block mineral deposits in coolant passages Cause engine overheating Cylinder block crankcase warpage Will throw main bearing bores out of alignment Cracked cylinder block Includes fractures in cylinder walls, deck surface(s), lifter gallery
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Connecting Rod Problems
Bent connecting rod Condition where rod is no longer straight when measured from pin centerline to rod bearing centerline Results from High detonation pressure in cylinder Piston failure and breakage Valve breaking off Nitrous oxide injection Excessive engine rpms
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Connecting Rod Problems (Cont.)
Broken connecting rod Complete fracture and failure of I-beam or rod bolts, separating rod cap from piston When connecting rod breaks, severe engine damage usually results Connecting rod bore problems Result from extended service, rod bearing failure, oil pump problems, and other causes
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Connecting Rod Problems (Cont.)
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Piston Problems Piston problems are major and include
Skirt breakage Crown failure Worn ring grooves Results of piston failure High oil consumption Blue engine smoking Engine knock due to excess piston clearances
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Burned Piston Burned piston
Often result of prolonged pre-ignition damage or almost instant detonation damage Abnormal combustion, excessive pressure, and heat melt piston and blow a hole in crown or area around ring grooves Engine may smoke or knock, have excessive blowby, misfire, or exhibit other symptoms
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Worn Piston Rings and Cylinders
Worn piston rings or worn cylinders cause Blowby Blue-gray engine smoke Low engine power Spark plug fouling Other problems caused by poor ring sealing
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Worn Piston Rings and Cylinders (Cont.)
If engine cylinders are found to be worn Block must be sent to machine shop for boring or sleeving If just rings are found to be worn, but not cylinders Engine may be rebuilt while still installed in vehicle
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Piston Breakage Most common type of piston breakage is a broken skirt
Piston then flops sideways in cylinder and causes major cylinder damage Affected cylinder will lose compression, burn oil, and make knocking sound
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Piston Knock Piston knock or piston slap Caused by
Loud metallic knocking sound produced when piston flops back and forth inside its cylinder Caused by Piston skirt or cylinder wear Excessive piston-to-cylinder clearance Mechanical damage
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Piston Pin Knock Piston pin knock Indicated by double knock
Occurs when too much clearance exists between piston pin and piston pin bore or connecting rod bushing Indicated by double knock Two rapid knocks and then a short pause
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Crankshaft and Bearing Problems
Connecting rod bearing knock Caused by wear and excessive bearing-to-crankshaft clearance Indicated by light, regular, rapping noise with engine floating Engine floating Constant engine speed above idle
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Crankshaft and Bearing Problems (Cont.)
Spun rod bearing Bearing hammered out flat and rotated inside of connecting rod bore Main bearing knock Similar to rod bearing knock, but sound slightly deeper or duller Worn main bearings Too thin, which allows too much clearance between crankshaft and bore
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Excess Crankshaft Endplay
Caused by worn main thrust bearing Thrust bearing wear Can produce deep knock, usually when clutch on manual transmission is applied and released
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Flywheel Problems Flywheel problems include Loose bolts
Failure of the ring gear teeth Friction surface scoring Warpage
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Crankshaft Vibration Damper Problems
Crankshaft vibration damper problems include Physical damage Deteriorated rubber ring Seal journal wear Slipped or sheared key
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Engine Mount Problems Broken engine mounts
Allow engine to move excessively in vehicle chassis with engine torque This movement can cause damage to external parts in engine compartment Radiator Valve cover Intake manifold
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Checking Engine Mounts
Open hood Engage parking brake and place transmission in drive or in gear While holding down on brake pedal, slowly increase engine speed or release clutch pedal This will twist engine, causing it to move excessively if mounts are broken
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Intake and Exhaust Manifold Problems
Engine exhaust heat can crack exhaust manifold, allowing leakage and exhaust noise Heat can also warp manifold, allowing it to leak next to cylinder head mating surface Passage plugs can loosen or fall out, allowing vacuum or coolant leakage
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