1. Modern Fashion: 1900 – Present
Fashion Design
Modern Fashion:
1900 – Present
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Trade & Industrial Education

2. 1900-1909 The early 1900s saw the Victorian era come
to a close. With this came changes in silhouette.
The skirt was slim at the hip
Skirt fullness was confined below the knee
Decoration: tucks, hem ruffles, buttons, and lace insertions
Day: High necklines with undefined bosom called the monobosom, bodice below the waist, cape type collars dropping off the shoulders, fitted sleeves from shoulder to elbow with fullness extending to wrist
Evening: dresses were more daring, worn off the shoulder, with or without sleeves.
Mid-Decade saw the beginning of the
Edwardian era.
The Edwardian era began with a retro vibe featuring: small balloon sleeves and very nipped-in waists. Full skirts were rounded and fabrics draped.
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3. Fashion illustration of Paul Poiret’s designs by Paul Iribe, 1908.
continued
Paul Poiret’s designs quickly
replaced the retro look.
Slim, straight skirts
Fewer undergarments
Loosening of the corset
High-waisted – empire line was popular
Lots of details and superb construction
Gowns featured: lace, cord, appliqué, soutache, beading, tucking, and insertion – often in the same gown
Haute Couture houses of the era:
Poiret
Worth
Doucet
Lanvin
Paquin
Fortuny
Fashion illustration of Paul Poiret’s designs by Paul Iribe, 1908.
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4.
The Edwardians became more playful and innovative featuring such styles as:
The hobble skirt
The lampshade skirt
Asymmetrical draping
Boning was used less and only for supporting the shape as opposed to changing the shape
Suits were fashionable for daywear
Walking was eased as the skirt hem rose to the ankle
The hobble skirt, c
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5. 1910-1919 continued World War I brought about more changes:
Skirts rose well above the ankle
Bodices leaned toward the higher waist
Skirts were full and tiered
Bat wing sleeves, over-drapes and flying panel skirts were popular
The post war years saw the introduction of Art Deco inspired prints.
The automobile rose to status bringing about new garments to protect passengers from dust:
The duster, a long, lightweight coat, was worn to protect clothing
Hats with veils were worn to keep the complexion smudge free
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6. Illustration from La Gazette du Bon Ton.
The post-war years brought a sense of euphoria to life and fashion:
Waistlines dropped to the high hip levels
Dresses became unfitted
Bodices were simplified using only a few tucks or shirring at the shoulders
Hemlines were perched above the ankle but would soon rise to shocking new heights
Necklines were simplified to a scoop or “v” unless a collar was present
Sleeves were long and straight or featured a bell shape
Dresses were straight and simple in construction with detail in surface ornamentation: embroidery, soft braid, and beading
Sheer or semi-sheer dresses were worn over matching slips
1922 – Robe de Style, Lanvin.
Illustration from La Gazette du Bon Ton.
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7. 1920-1929 continued The “Flapper Era” became established:
By 1926 the hemline had scandalously reached the knee
The dropwaist remained popular but skirts and bodices became more complex featuring seaming, flounces, floating panels, overlays
Quality was now viewed through fabric manipulation and surface design rather than by complex construction and fit
By 1928/1929 fashion collections had tamed the indecent hemline and replaced it with the asymmetric hemline (knee length in front, longer in back)
Waistlines rose to resume the natural position at the waist
Popular designers/Design houses of the 20s:
Patou
Molyneux
Chanel
Vionnet
Actress Alice Joyce, 1926.
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8.
Great innovations were seen during the Depression, despite hardship.
Waistlines returned to the natural waist
Fits remained somewhat relaxed
The bias cut gown created by Madeleine Vionnet became the standard for evening
Zippers replaced hook and eye closures and became design elements in the hands of Elsa Schiaparelli who popularized their use
Chanel popularized costume jewelry with faux pearl strands
By 1938 small shoulder pads had become fashionable
Girl in Dallas, TX, 1934.
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9. continued
Hollywood style made its way to the mainstream with movie designers such as Adrian creating their own lines.
Popular Haute Couture houses:
Lanvin
Molyneux
Mainbocher
Patou
Vionnet
Chanel
Schiaparelli
Actress Mae West, 1933.
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10. 1940-1949 As the United States emerged from
the Depression much of Europe was already
at war. The Nazi occupation of Paris was disaster for Haute Couture but it brought opportunity for American designers.
Norman Norell and Claire McCardell established themselves and built an American clientele
Mainbocher and Molyneux fled Europe and began working in the United States
Wartime regulations restricted how much fabric and what types of garments could be manufactured
Utility and practicality became fashionable while frivolity and extravagance were put on hold establishing the wide-shouldered, slim-waisted, narrow-hipped silhouette
Social changes such as women in the workplace brought about the popularity of slacks (this point was greatly debated into the 1960s)
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11. continued
Dior’s “New Look” hit the runway in 1947 and called for rounded shoulders, exaggerated bust lines, wasp waists, padded hips, and long, extravagantly full skirts.
The New Look, although loved by fashion writers, was initially met with resistance from the public who viewed it as frivolous after years of rationing. The New Look soon became a symbol of the return to prosperity, femininity, and glamour.
The New Look helped restore the French couture industry and offered a glimpse into the next decade.
Popular designers/Design houses of the 1940s:
Norell
McCardell
Dior
Mainbocher
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12.
The 1950s placed emphasis on the hourglass silhouette.
This silhouette could be seen in both full skirts and the slender pencil skirt which was also popular.
The hourglass silhouette created a need for foundation garments:
Bullet bras - Corselets - Waist-cinchers - Girdles – Crinolines
The birth of prêt-a-porter (ready-to-wear) brought quality off-the-rack garments once restricted to the wealthy to the general population
Full skirts were popular on daytime dresses which were worn form performing household duties and running errands
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13. 1950-1959 continued Cocktail dresses were essential for social
gatherings
Gloves and hats were expected when a woman left the house
The latter fifties were popularized by Balenciaga’s sack dress and Yves Saint Laurent’s trapeze dress.
Popular designers/Design houses:
Dior
Balenciaga
Yves Saint Laurent
Chanel
Balmain
Givenchy
Mainbocher
Galanos
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14. 1960-1969 The 1960s were a decade of great fashion transition
The decade began with the full-skirt silhouette of the 1950s and ended with a silhouette that was quite opposite
Jackie Kennedy popularized the short-jacketed sheath suits of Oleg Cassini
Teenagers dominated the fashion scene led by “It Girl” Twiggy and their parents later followed suit
Colorful shift dresses and psychedelic prints were popular
Emilio Pucci created colorful prints making simple dresses walking works of art
Babydoll and trapeze silhouettes were staples
Mary Quant introduced the mini-skirt
By 1967 the new fashions were baring more of the body than ever before with even the most conservative styles cut above the knee
Popular designers/Design houses:
Oleg Cassini
Mary Quant
Emilio Pucci
Yves Saint Laurent
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15. 1970-1979 The 1970s picked up where the 1960s left off
with the body-baring mini-skirt still popular
New trends were quickly added including the bell-bottom pant with its very fitted top and wide-flared leg openings (the mid-70s saw the hip hugger waistlines while the late-70s saw high waistlines)
Midi and maxi skirts joined the ranks of the mini in popularity offering three different skirt lengths
Short, tight-fitting shorts called hot pants became the craze
Women were now freely wearing pants without social criticism
Polyester was popularized in many styles most notably the “leisure suit”
Platform shoes were popular for men and women
Diane von Fürstenburg introduced the wrap dress for women
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16. 1980-1989 The 80s offered a wide variety of styles and
inspiration encompassing all subcultures from
music to athletics to movies
Shoulder pads rose to new heights and widths
The women’s power suit, complete with large shoulder pads was popularized by popular TV shows
Musicians such as Michael Jackson, Madonna, and MC Hammer popularized looks such as the “Thriller” look, the “street urchin” and Hammer pants that were copied by the youth of American
Some movies popularized oversized sweatshirts with the collars cut off paired with leggings
Designer jeans were all the rage
Looks with leather, lace, and/or bright colors were popular
Popular Designers/Design houses:
Ralph Lauren
Calvin Klein
Ann Klein
Perry Ellis
Giorgio Armani
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17. 1990-1999 The early 90s saw a continuation of 80s fashion.
Dark denim became the preferred style of denim and was often seen in matching jeans and jacket combos.
Baby doll dresses, tartan skirts, headscarves, trench coats, penny loafers were all commonly seen.
The mid 1990s saw a revival of 1960s fashion.
It also became fashionable to wear designer clothing displaying labels from designers such as Lacoste, YSL, Armani, Gucci, and Chanel
The 1990s also saw a movement of fashion rejection that continued into the 2000s.
Tattoos, body piercing, and branding became popular in the 90s.
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18. 2000 – present
What are popular styles, silhouettes, and influences of the time period?
Who are important designers of the time period?
How have current trends have been influenced by past styles?
Is there only one popular look that defines the time period as in some decades?
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