1. Fragrances in Consumer Products
Judy Kerschner
International Flavor and Fragrances
Bergen Academy
April 21, 2006

2. Fragrance & Human Psychology
“(Human beings) are avid smellers. We attract our mates through smell, identify our babies through smell, experience spirituality through smell and remember the experiences of our lives through smell. Smell is the muse of memory...”
“Browning wrote of devouring violets to satiate himself with their scent. Walt Whitman was the epic poet of body odor. Colette was drunk on the smells of muskmelon, honeysuckle, blue lilac, tea rose and the sea - her heroines were too. Sappho described incense burning in an apple grove summoning Aphrodite. Without smell, there is no poetry of love. As Li Po wrote: ‘You left three years ago. Still your perfume haunts my solitude.’”
My Generation March-April 2002

3. How We Smell -
Odorants are volatile chemicals carried by inhaled air to the Regio olfactoria (olfactory epithelium) located in the roof of the two nasal cavities of the human nose, just below and between the eyes.
The olfactory region of each of the two nasal passages in humans is a small area of about 2.5 square centimeters containing in total approximately 50 million primary sensory receptor cells.

4. History of Perfume – Greece
Greek Perfume Urns
By the 7th century BC, Athens had developed into a mercantile center in which hundreds of perfumers set up shop. Trade was heavy in fragrant herbs such as marjoram, lily, thyme, sage, anise, rose and iris, infused into olive, almond, castor and linseed oils to make thick unguents. These were sold in small, elaborately decorated ceramic pots, similar to the small jars still sold in Athens today.

5. History of Perfume– France
16th & 17th centuries - Southern France (Grasse) becomes a center of expertise for the growing, extraction and distillation of essential oils.
France becomes the the Perfume center of the world. Large scale cultivation & processing of valuable plants for oils such as rose soon was centered there. And raw materials from around the world were imported for processing. Extraction & distillation techniques were refined.

6. History of Perfume – The Organic Chemist
Mid-1800’s - From Germany came a new breed of Chemist that would revolutionize industry and bring an end to “Alchemy”. This type chemist used the scientific method to unravel chemical structures and create materials from coal, petroleum and other materials.
1855 – First synthesis of cinnamaldehyde
1868 – Commercial production of coumarin – the first synthetic fragrance chemical
1874 – Chemical structure of vanillin determined.
1876 – Synthetic vanillin production starts.
1850 to 1900 – Significant advances in elucidating major chemicals in Essential oils.

7. The Perfumer – An artist with a different palette

8. Example of a Simple Fragrance
Ethyl Butyrate 10
ethyl w-methyl butyrate 155
isoampy acetate 5
ethyl pentanoate 25
prenyl acetate 15
methyl hexanoate 150
Benzaldehyde 10
alpha-Pinene 165
Camphene 50
beta-Pinene 130
Myrcene 110
cis-3-hexenyl acetate 110
hexyl acetate 45
methyl anisole 170
Limonene 250
Aldehyde AA-Triplal 15
Dihydromyrcenol 10
allyl hexanoate 5
Methyl Benzoate 2
Terpinolene 35
Linalool 3.5
Allyl s-methyhexanoate 12
methyl octanoate 5
Benzyl acetate 12
ethyl benzoate 4
Syrallyl acetate 3
ethyl linalool 100
myrtenal 25
citronellol 4
carvone 55
linalyl acetate 200
citronellyl formate 175
dihyrdolinalyl acetate 2
undecanone 12
verdox 45
galoxolide 35
dimethylbenzyl carbinyl acetate 2
methyl decanoate 125
delta damascone 5
geranyl acetate 200
alpha- damascone 5
mirascone 75
cyclacet 125
allylcyclohexyl propinonate 50
alpha ionone 10
dihydro beta-ionone 3
cyclamal 15
beta-ionone 10
bimethylbenzyl carbinyl butyrate 100
cyclabute 12
Delta-cadinene 25
tosetone 5
rose oxide 2
gamma-undecalactone 50
diethyl phthalate 250
Iso E Super 100
hexyl cinnamic aldehyde 50
isopropyl myristate 10
tonalide 55
zenolide 65
benzyl salicylate 25
habanolide 150
isoamyl salicylate 5
benzyl benzoate 20
rosetone 75
vertelilial 75
nex 150
ionone 2
allyl heptanoate 25

9. Character Visualizing a Fragrance Long lasting memory
Seduction/Freshness
TOP NOTE
Character
Cost
MIDDLE NOTE
Volatility
Long lasting
memory
BACK (BASE) NOTE

10. Fine Fragrance Design BACK (BASE) NOTE TOP NOTE MIDDLE NOTE
Give initial impact of fragrance
Provide freshness
Typically citrus, green notes
Lasts minutes on skin
TOP NOTE
Give fragrance its character
and depth
Typically spicy, leather, floral
Lasts 3-4 hours on skin
MIDDLE NOTE
Fragrance foundation
Substantivity
Typically amber, musk
Topnotes
The most volatile of the fragrance raw materials.
Typical notes are citrus, Herbal, Aldehydic, Green, Marine/Ozone, Fruit.
Herbal notes are essentially used in masculine perfumery.
Aldehydic notes give power, diffusion and uniqueness to a fragrance and are entirely synthetic.
Fruit - generally extracted from the skin of the fruit. However, most fruit tend only to have a light skin and therefore the extraction of the oil from the skin has been replaced by a synthetic reproduction of the odours.
Middle Notes
Typical notes - floral, spice, wood, leather.
Base Notes
Typical Notes - animal, musk, amber, sweet/powdery.
Typically the most expensive. An increase in the base notes of a fragrance will increase the cost of the fragrance. The base notes of a fragrance give the fragrance its substantivity/longevity.
Only synthetic musks are now used, however they only reproduce the softness, sweetness and fixative properties of natural musk without its animalic notes.
Amber notes - labdanum, incense.
Sweet/powdery notes - often referred to as pastry notes. eg. Tonka bean, Benzoin, Vanilla.
BACK (BASE) NOTE
Lasts >4 hours

11. Individual Fragrance Ingredients
Chemical structure does not always indicate odor type
Aldehyde C CH3(CH2)6CHO Orange
Aldehyde C CH3(CH2)7CHO Rose
Aldehyde C CH3(CH2)8CHO Citrus
Aldehyde C CH3(CH2)9CHO Citrus-floral
Aldehyde C CH3(CH2)10CHO Soapy
Aldehyde C CH3(CH2)11CHO Waxy-citrus
Aldehyde C CH3(CH2)12CHO Fatty-citrus

12. Individual Fragrance Ingredients
Geranium (Rose-like, Citrus, Wood, Green)
Fragrance Categories:
Floral
Fruity
Woody
Herbal
Balsam and Vanilla
Spice
Animal
Marine
Aldehyde
Bergamot (Citrus, Lemon, Earl Grey Tea)
Cedarwood (Sawdust, Pencil Shavings, Dry)
Cis-3-Hexenol (Wet, Green, Cut Grass)
Clove (Spicy, Creamy)
Musk (Soft, Warm, Fluffy Clouds)
Calone (Watery, Dewy, Fresh)

13. Perfumed Products Fine Fragrance (Happy, Chanel No. 5, etc)
Air Care (Candles, Electricals, etc)
Fabric Care (Detergents, Conditioners, etc)
Personal Care (Shampoos, AP/DEOs, etc)
Personal Wash (Bar Soaps, Liquid Body or Hand Wash, etc)
Home Care (Dish Wash, All Purpose Cleaners, etc)

14. Fragrance Predominate Deciding Factor!
“People tell you they buy cleaning products based on performance,” said Dr. Pamela Dalton, a cognitive psychologist at the Monell Chemical Senses Center in Philadelphia. “But the deciding factor in blind tests is always fragrance.”
New York Times March 6, 2002

15. Typical Consumer Products are difficult to perfume
For Fine Fragrances, the perfumer has availble circ ingredients and a simple solvent base (alcohol).
For Functional Perfumery, the perfumer has only <400 ingredients depending on the type of base (pH, solvent, color, etc).
Because;
Many ingredients are not stable in acid or alkaline bases
Many ingredients are broken down by bleach (TAED / Percarbonate)
Many ingredients will react with the base to cause base instability (color, rheology, phase separation)
and
Limitations of product production process
Limitations of packaging used
Limitations of way the product is used

16. Fragrances in Consumer Products
The Impact threshold of each perfume ingredient
The mix of ingredients chosen
The level used in the product
The odour quality of the base
The degree of interaction with the base
The effect of processing the product
The stability of the perfume during storage
The interaction with the packaging
The amount of product used by the consumer
The wash conditions chosen by the consumer
The amount of perfume deposited
The amount of perfume retained after the wash
The rate of release of the perfume over time
Need to understand
and control
Need new technical
routes and innovative
approaches
....and the ability to
measure their value

17. Measure Fragrance Performance
Combine analytical and sensory studies to understand fragrance performance
- Fine Fragrance – Diffusivity, Long-lasting
- Personal Wash – POP, Bloom, Deposition, Substantivity
- Laundry – POP, Deposition, Substantivity
- Home/Air Care – Diffusivity, Fragrance Release, Coverage of Mal-odors
- AP/Deo – POP, Long-lasting, Coverage of Body Odor

18. Applied Fragrance Technology
Most important drivers of technical performance
Ingredient Chemical and Physical Properties:
Vapor pressure
POP/Soap
Log p
Bloom (Shower/Wash)
Water Solubility
Deposition
Odor Threshold
Substantivity (Long lasting)
Odor Intensity

19. Applied Fragrance Technology
Physical characteristics of ingredients that influence performance
Model Accord
Neat Oil – Wt% in Oil
Model Accord
Neat Oil – Vapor Phase
Limonene
Bornafix
Meth Ionone
Nebulone
Phen Eth Acet
Ald C11
Linalool Oxide
Rose Oxide
Yara Yara
Hexenyl iso butyl
Iso Eugenol
Meth Anth
Patch alc
Damascone Delta
Limonene
Bornafix
Meth Ionone
Nebulone
Phen Eth Acet
Ald C11
Linalool Oxide
Rose Oxide
Yara Yara
Hexenyl iso butyl
Iso Eugenol
Meth Anth
Patch alc
Damascone Delta
Vapor Pressure =
>1000
<100

20. Sensory Dose/Response Curve
1: Extremely Weak
2: Moderately Weak
3: Weak to Moderate
4: Moderate
5: Slightly Strong
6: Moderately Strong
7: Strong
Solution Concentration (in ppm)
Threshold (50% Population)
Saturation
Rate of intensity increase
Intensity

21. Applied Fragrance Technology
Sensory Dose Response

22. Design of High Performing Fragrances
Marketing
Research & Development
Consumer Insight
Creative
Fragrance Development
Technical
Fragrance Development
Perfumers