Q. What are the two ADD: chief purposes of hair? Protection Adornment

Q. What are the two ADD: chief purposes of hair? Protection Adornment Add to the side bar: Hair is an appendage of the skin

TRICOLOGY scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care comes from Greek words: Trichos=hair ology=the study of

PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR AND SCALP
CHAPTER 9 PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR AND SCALP

INTEGUMENT ~the outer covering that encloses the entire body includes the hair, skin, and nails is the largest and fastest growing organ body

STRUCTURE OF THE HAIR

Hair: A slender, threadlike filament of protein keratin which is an appendage or outgrowth of the scalp and body.

hair is divided into two parts:
Hair root ~located below the surface of the scalp Hair shaft ~projects above the skin

HEALTHY HAIR Amino acids: Proteins: Proper nutrients required.
Amino acids: Twenty amino acids make up hair. The body produces only 11 of the 20. The remainder must come from diet. Proteins: Proteins like meat, fish, eggs, and dairy products are good sources of these amino acids as are food combinations like peanut butter and bread, rice and beans, and beans and corn

Structures of the Hair Root
The main structures are: Follicle Bulb Dermal papilla Arrector pili muscle Sebaceous glands

Follicle ~ tube-like pocket in the scalp ~ contains the hair root ~ distributed all over the body ~ except *palms of the hands *soles of the feet ~ multiple hairs/one follicle

The follicle “Tunnel” epidermis (outer layer of the skin) dermis
(inner layer of the skin) dermal papilla Internet source: acne-site.com

Hair bulb-the lowest area or part of the hair strand.
thickened, club-shaped part of the hair root fits over and covers the dermal papilla Internet source: Missinglink.ucsf.edu

Dermal papilla ~ cone-shaped ~ base of the hair follicle ~ fits into hair bulb. contains the blood and nerve supply provides nutrients

tiny, involuntary muscle ~ base of the hair follicle.
Arrector pili: tiny, involuntary muscle ~ base of the hair follicle. Fear or cold ~ contract “goose bumps”

Sebaceous glands ~ oil glands ~connected to the hair follicles. ~ secretes oily substance ~sebum ~lubricates

Sebaceous gland

Structures of the Hair Shaft
Three main layers 1. Cuticle ~ outermost layer of hair ~ overlapping layer of transparent, scale-like cells ~ shingles on a roof

~provides a barrier/protects inner structure
~ creates shine, smooth silky feel hair’s primary defense against damage Internet source: the gentle touch.com

Individual cuticle scales are attached to the cortex
The hair has only one cuticle layer Q. Why are we cautioned that there is only one cuticle layer?

Swelling the hair: ~ raises the cuticle layer
~ opens the space between the scales ~allows liquids to penetrate

Swells cuticle/lifts/exposes cortex
Internet source: Hairdressersus.com Damaged cuticle Haircolor, permanent waving solutions, and chemical hair relaxers must have an alkaline (base) pH to penetrate the cuticle layer Swells cuticle/lifts/exposes cortex

Cortex-is the middle layer of the hair
~ fibrous protein ~melanin pigment Q. What does the word melanin mean?

~ elasticity of the hair
~ natural color ~ located in the cortex all changes (physical or chemical) take place within the cortex

Internet source: Hairdressersus.com Womensnet.com

Medulla-the inner most layer
~ composed of round cells *missing medulla ~ very fine hair ~ naturally blonde hair ~coarse hair contains a medulla

Internet source: Ecobyte.com.au Bfro.net

All beard hair contains a medulla
not involved in salon services Add to side bar: Until a child has became the age of puberty. Their hair has not fully matured and has no Medulla

THE CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
composed of protein in the hair follicle. This is where the hair shaft begins living cells form journey upward through the hair follicle

process called keratinization.
As the cells mature ~ fill up with a fibrous protein ~keratin ~move upward Killerstrands.blogspot.com

~ lose their nucleus ~ die ~ emerges from the scalp, ~ cells are keratinized ~ no longer living ~ keratinized protein

~ 90% protein ~long chains of amino acids Main elements: (chemical composition) Carbon Oxygen Hydrogen Nitrogen Sulfur

Referred to as the COHNS elements
Carbon 51% Oxygen 21% Hydrogen 6% Nitrogen 17% Sulfur 5%

Amino acids- long chains of protein
linked together like pop beads (candy necklace) The chemical bond that joins the amino acids to each other is called a peptide bond or end bond.

A long chain of amino acids. linked by peptide bonds is
A long chain of amino acids linked by peptide bonds is called a polypeptide. spiral shape of coiled protein is called a helix.

THE SIDE BONDS OF THE CORTEX
made up of millions of polypeptide chains Polypeptide chains are cross- linked by three different types of side bonds:

Hydrogen bonds Salt bonds Disulfide bonds incredible strength
Backreaction.blogspot.com incredible strength elasticity

Essential to: Wet sets Thermal styling Permanent waving Chemical hair relaxing

Hydrogen bond weak physical side bond Easily broken by water or heat Accounts for 1/3 of hair’s strength

weak physical side bond
Salt bond weak physical side bond Broken by changes in the pH -strong alkaline or acidic solutions Accounts for 1/3 of hair’s strength

Disulfide bond ~chemical side bond accounts for 1/3 overall strength Not broken by heat or water ~ permanent waves ~ chemical relaxers ~ chemically change disulfide bonds

Thio permanent waves (base)
~ break the disulfide bonds ~ reformed by thio neutralizer (acid) Hydroxide chemical hair relaxers ~ break disulfide bonds ~ bonds are broken permanently (becomes lanthionine bond) ~ can never be reformed

Read: Table 9-2 Bond Read: Did you know Hydrogen Salt Disulfide
Type Strength Broken By Re-formed By Hydrogen Side Bond Weak Physical Water or heat Drying or cooling Salt Change in ph Normalizing ph Disulfide Strong Chemical 1.Thio perms and thio relaxers 2.Hydroxide relaxers 1.Oxidation with neutralizer 2.Converted to lanthionine bonds Peptide End Bond Chemical depilatories Not re-formed: hair dissolves Bond Read: Did you know

Hair Pigment: ~ pigment in the cortex Melanin ~ tiny grains of pigment ~ cortex

brown and black The two main types: Eumelanin 2. Pheomelanin
red ginger yellow/blonde ~ratio

extremely curly straight wavy curly Wave Pattern amount of movement
Described as: straight wavy curly extremely curly

result of genetics General rule: Asians ~extremely straight hair Caucasians ~straight to wavy hair African Americans ~extremely curly hair

all wave patterns ~ in all races vary from strand to strand ~ same person’s head

The shape of the cross-section (round, oval, flat), determines the amount of curl.

Extremely Curly Hair long twisted spirals coiled hair ~fine texture low elasticity breaks easily ~tends to knot

gentle scalp manipulations
conditioning shampoos detangling rinses help

HAIR ANALYSIS all services begin: ~analysis of client’s hair type ~condition *determines the results that can reasonably be expected different types of hair ~react differently to the same service

texture porosity elasticity density growth pattern dryness/oiliness
performed prior to all services Factors: texture porosity elasticity density growth pattern dryness/oiliness

HAIR TEXTURE thickness or diameter ~ individual hair strand coarse medium fine different areas of the head ~may have different textures

Coarse texture large diameter requires more processing time more resistant

Medium texture most common considered normal does not pose any special problems or concerns

Fine texture smallest diameter fragile easier to process more susceptible to damage from chemical services

Determined ~ by feeling a single dry strand ~ between the fingers Take an individual strand from: Front hairline The temple The crown The nape

hold the strand securely
~ feel it with the thumb and forefinger of the other hand feel the difference between ~ coarse ~ medium ~ fine

HAIR DENSITY measures ~ number of individual hair strands ~ on one square inch how many on one person’s head

Classified as: Low textbook Medium High

same hair texture ~different densities i.e. Coarse hair texture ~ low density (thin) fine hair texture ~ high density (thick)

average hair density ~ 2,200 hairs per square inch average head ~ 100,000 hairs ~ varies with the color blondes high density redheads lowest Table 9-3

Q. How do we determine what the amount of density is?
Use fingers to feel the hair Look at the scalp area Ask the client how dense they think their hair is Ask another stylist to help us decide

HAIR POROSITY ability of the hair to absorb moisture condition of the cuticle layer compact cuticle layer ~ resistant to penetration porous hair/raised cuticle ~ easily absorbs moisture

low porosity ~ resistant ~ more alkaline solution ~ longer processing time alkaline solutions ~ raise the cuticle permit uniform ~ saturation and processing

Average/normal porosity
~ considered normal ~ processes as expected

High porosity ~ overly porous ~ result of over processing ~ damaged ~ dry ~ fragile and brittle ~ less alkaline solutions (lower pH)

POROSITY TEST dry hair one inch patch hold strand securely
(I like clean, towel dried hair) one inch patch hold strand securely

*slide the thumb and forefinger of the other hand *3-4” from the end
*to the scalp three times Technicurl.com

Determining the results:
no hair or nearly no hair ~very resistant small amount ~resistant medium amount ~average or normal

Q. How strong should the chemical solution be for this kind of hair?
a lot of hair comes down=porous most of the hair comes down=overly porous Q. What four areas of the head should be checked? Q. How strong should the chemical solution be for this kind of hair?

Textbook: 3 descriptions
Low (resistant) Average Highly porous

5 descriptions Very resistant Resistant Normal/average Porous Highly/very porous

HAIR ELASTICITY Ability of the hair to ~stretch and return ~original length ~without breaking Indication of the strength of the side bonds

wet hair with normal elasticity
~ stretch up to 50% of its original length ~ return without breaking Dry hair stretches 20% ***will hold the curl from wet sets and permanent waves

low elasticity: ~ brittle ~ breaks easily does not hold curl low elasticity ~ overprocessed milder solution ~ lower pH

***Also called a pull test
ELASTICITY TEST ***Also called a pull test Check elasticity ~wet hair ~individual strand Hold a single strand of wet hair ~ try to pull it apart

stretches and returns to ~ original length without breaking
~ normal/good elasticity breaks easily ~ fails to return to its original length ~ it has low/poor elasticity ***crinkles=bad

Q. Describe texture and give the classifications and how to tell.
Q. What are the classifications for density? Q. Explain what porosity is, its classifications and the test for porosity. Q. Define elasticity, list classifications, describe the test.

GROWTH PATTERNS important ~ shaping and styling hair Q. Does the hair tend to grow straight out from the head at a 90 degrees angle? growth patterns ~streams, whorls, and cowlicks

flowing same direction follicles sloping same direction
Internet source: Justformom slides.com Hair stream: flowing same direction follicles sloping same direction two streams opposite directions ~ form a natural part

forms a circular pattern crown
Whorl: forms a circular pattern crown Dana.org

Usually at the front hairline May be located anywhere
Internet source: Hairboutique.com Cowlick: Tuft of hair ~ stands straight up Usually at the front hairline May be located anywhere

DRY HAIR AND SCALP inactive sebaceous glands dry winters hair appears dull, dry and lifeless moisturizers and emollients

Avoid frequent shampooing Internet source: Pq.com/science/hair care

Avoid ~ strong soaps ~ detergents ~ products with high alcohol content Dry hair ~not overly-porous

OILY HAIR AND SCALP Causes: improper shampooing overactive sebaceous glands greasy buildup on scalp oily coating normalizing shampoo

Well-balanced diet Exercise Regular shampooing Good personal hygiene will control oily hair and scalp

HAIR GROWTH Two main types of hair Vellus (or lanugo) Terminal

Vellus or lanugo hair: Short ~ fine ~downy Not pigmented Almost never has a medula Found on infants

On adults: Forehead ~ eyelids ~ bald scalp Nearly all other areas Except: ~ palms of hands ~ soles of feet

Helps in evaporation of perspiration
Hairireland.ie

Terminal hair: Long, soft hair ~ scalp ~ legs ~ arms ~ males and females Coarser than vellus hair

Is pigmented ~ except gray hair ~ medulla ~ darker color ~ coarse texture

Hormone changes ~ during puberty ~ vellus hair replaced ~ thicker terminal hair

Hair follicles produce
~ vellus ~ terminal hair Depends ~ genetics ~ age ~ hormonal changes

THE GROWTH CYCLES OF HAIR
occurs in cycles repeated over and over again Anagen-growth phase Catagen-transition phase Telogen-resting phase

Anagen: The Growth Phase
New hair produced Follicle Hair cells are produced faster

Average growth ~ ½ inch per month About 90% of hair ~ in Anagen phase ~ lasts 3-5 years ~ to 10 years

Catagen: The Transition Phase
Brief transition period ~ signals the end of growth ~ follicle canal shrinks ~ detaches from the dermal papilla

Less than one percent of hair is in this phase at one time
Hair bulb disappears Less than one percent of hair is in this phase at one time Very short, lasts 1-2 weeks Internet source: Hairrestoration.com

Telogen : the Resting Phase
Final phase Lasts until the fully grown hair is shed or until the next new hair pushes out the old

10% in this phase Lasts 3-6 months Cycle begins again Repeats every 4-5 years

Ukhairdressers.com

Myths: Shaving, etc: no effect on hair growth Scalp massage: no evidence Gray hair more resistant same as pigmented hair (I beg to differ) Natural curl determined by race: anyone can have any degree of curl

HAIR LOSS Normal daily hair loss ~ three phases Average daily hair loss ~ hairs (this is the answer we want)

Information we want you to know:
Write on the side: Facts The average life span of hair is 4-6 years Everyone sheds hairs per day Hair does not grow after death Eyebrows and eyelashes are replaced every 4-5 months

63 million people in US ~ suffer from abnormal hair loss (alopecia) you will be the first person people will come to with questions

FYI: Causes of Hair Loss
Poor circulation Stress Thyroid disease High blood pressure Iron deficiency Pregnancy Liver malfunction Chemotherapy B & vitamin deficiencies Skin Disease Large doses of Vitamin A High fever Cholesterol Sudden weight loss Alcohol and caffeine Medications

Psychemedics.com

THE EMOTIONAL IMPACT OF HAIR LOSS
medical community ~ not a medical condition anguish ~ very real ~ overlooked

Bald men are perceived as:
Less physically attractive (by both sexes) Less assertive Less successful Less personally likeable Older (by about 5 years) How shallow we can be???

Bald men perceive themselves:
Experience negative ~ social and emotional effects Preoccupied with their baldness Make effort ~ conceal ~ compensate

For women ~ devastating ~ very traumatic ~ feel anxious ~ helpless ~ less attractive

TYPES OF ABNORMAL HAIR LOSS
~alopecia Most common types are: Androgenic alopecia Alopecia areata Postpartum alopecia

Androgenic/androgenetic alopecia
The result ~ genetics ~ age ~ hormonal changes ~ miniaturization of terminal hair *converting it to vellus hair

~ generalized thinning ~ crown area
Can begin in the teens ~frequently by 40 male pattern baldness horseshoe-shaped fringe In women ~ generalized thinning ~ crown area Sacimdokuluyor.com

Sacimdokuluyor.com Healthhype.com

Add to side bar: Alopecia Senilis: baldness due to old age Alopecia Prematura: baldness that begins before middle age

Alopecia areata sudden falling out ~ patches ~ baldness in spots scalp and body unpredictable skin disease

Add to side bar: Possible cause: flairs up with stress and trauma

Associatedcontent.com

autoimmune disease ~ hair follicles ~ attacked by immune system White blood cells ~ stop hair growth (anagen phase)

Usually begins ~ one or more ~ round, small ~ smooth patches on the scalp Can progress total scalp hair loss ~ alopecia totalis

~ no signs of inflammation
Or complete body hair loss ~ alopecia universalis males and females ~ begins in childhood ~ no signs of inflammation ~ no skin disorder or disease

POSTPARTUM ALOPECIA Temporary hair loss ~conclusion of a pregnancy Very little hair loss during pregnancy Sudden and excessive shedding from 3-9 months after delivery

Estrogen stimulates hair follicles ~ anagen growing phase
Returns to normal within one year Internet source Ezinearticles.com Estrogen stimulates hair follicles ~ anagen growing phase ~ hair does not cycle as it normally would.

***After child is born ~ estrogen level drops ~ hair enters the catagen and telogen phase ~ very traumatic ~ returns to normal one year

Add to side bar: Telogen Effluvium: Premature shedding in resting phase Possible causes: difficult childbirth fever shock drug intake crash diets

Add to side bar: Traumatic Alopecia: Hair loss due to repetitive traction on the hair by pulling or twisting Possible causes: ~ excessive application of chemicals (perms/relaxers) ~ excessive use of hot combs

HAIR LOSS TREATMENTS Minoxidil and Finasteride
Minoxidil and Finasteride ~ have been proven to stimulate hair growth ~ approved by FDA Minoxidil ~ topical medication ~ applied to scalp ~ twice a day

Sold O-T-C ~ men and women ~ 2% or 5% strength ~ no known side effects

Myth: Hair loss is inherited from your father
Internet source: Myths and facts about hair loss: Myth: Hair loss is inherited from your father Fact: Both parent's genes are a factor. Androgenetic aplopecia is genetically-linked hair thinning.

Myth: Teasing, using hair color, other products, or frequently washing hair increases hair loss. Fact: Normal hair care doesn't affect hair loss.

Finasteride ~ oral prescription medication ~ for men only ~ more effective ~ more side effects ~ women can not use ~ pregnant women causes birth defects

Surgical options: Transplant or hair plugs ~ removing small sections of hair ~ follicle, papilla, and bulb from the back ~ transplanting in the bald area.

Internet source: Hairtransplantnetwork.com

The bulb grows normally in the new location
Surgeons Several surgeries $8,000-$20,000 Add to side bar: medical treatment scalp reduction

Internet source: Newhair.com Howstuffworks.com

non-surgical/medical hair replacements:
~ wigs ~ toupees ~ hair weaving ~ hair extensions

Learn to fit ~ color ~ cut ~ style wigs and toupees Weavings and extensions ~ enhance client’s natural hair ~ boosts their self-esteem

Internet source: Madeinchina.com Wigsontop.com Jewel-and-jewel.com Beasbraiding.com

DISORDERS OF THE HAIR CANITIES ~ gray hair ~ loss of the natural melanin pigment ~ same as pigmented hair

Two types: Congenital Canities ~ exists at or before birth ~ occurs in albinos ~ can be patchy Add: Albino-person born with no coloring matter, resulting in white hair

Acquired Canities ~ develops with age ~ result of genetics. ~ may develop * worry * anxiety * prolonged illness

Trihup.cpm More.com

Ringed hair ~ alternating bands ~ gray and pigmented hair ~ length of hair strand

Hypertrichosis ~ hirsuities ~ abnormal growth of hair ~ terminal hair in areas of vellus hair ~ mustache or light beard on women Remember: Hyper=excess hair

~electrolysis ~photoepilation
treatments include ~electrolysis ~photoepilation ~laser hair removal ~tweezing ~shaving ~electronic tweezers ~depilatories ~threading ~sugaring

Trichoptilosis split ends treatments: ~ conditioning to soften ~ remove by cutting Remember: Chop=needs cutting or “chop off”

Trichorrhexis Nodosa knotted hair ~ brittleness ~ formation of nodular swellings along the hair shaft ~ hair breaks easily ~ broken fibers spread out like a brush along hair shaft

Treatments: ~ conditioners ~ moisturizers Remember: Trichorrhexis nodosa -Needs correcting -nodosa-nodules

Monilethrix beaded hair ~ breaks easily between the beads or nodes Treatments: ~ hair and scalp conditioning

Fragilitas crinium brittle hair ~ may split at any part of their length Treatment: ~ hair and scalp conditioning Remember: Fragile=brittle

segal.koreanbusiness.co.kr/.../book-photo3.gif

DISORDERS OF THE SCALP outer layer ~ shed ~ replaced by new cells Small ~ dry flakes ~ without being noticed

dry scalp-(not dandruff)
~ has smaller ~ less noticeable flakes contact dermatitis, sunburn, or extreme age worse in cold, dry climates

Medical term for dandruff:
Pityriasis excessive production and accumulation of skin cells large visible clumps of cells dandruff is the result of a fungus called malassezia

Malassezia naturally occurring fungus present on all human skin symptoms when it grows out of control stress, age, hormones, and poor hygiene can cause symptoms to worsen

antidandruff shampoos contain antifungal agents
pyrithione zinc, selenium sulfide, or ketoconazole suppresses the growth of malassezia

Pyrithione zinc is gentle enough to be used everyday
color-treated hair frequent use is essential

Mild,moderate,severe cases
Nature.com Mild,moderate,severe cases

School’s of thought go back and forth as to dandruff being contagious
School’s of thought go back and forth as to dandruff being contagious. Mrs. Kucas and I feel that dandruff is contagious. (contradicts your book) Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disorder

Pityriasis capitis simplex:
Two principal types: Pityriasis capitis simplex: technical term for classic scalp inflammation dry dandruff large {thin} flakes itchy scalp

Scales may: attach to the scalp in masses scatter loosely in the hair fall to the shoulders

poor circulation Add to side bar:
Dry dandruff is the result of a sluggish scalp caused by: poor circulation lack of nerve stimulation improper diet emotional and glandular disturbances poor personal hygiene

Treatments include: antidandruff shampoos conditioners topical lotions Scalp treatments and regular scalp massage will also help

Pityriasis steatoides
more severe accumulation of greasy or waxy scalp scales mixed with sebum stick to the scalp in patches or crusts

When accompanied by redness and inflammation is:
“seborrheic dermatisis” Can be found in eyebrows/beards Client should be referred to a physician for medical treatment

FUNGAL INFECTIONS (TINEA)
ringworm itching, scales, and sometimes, painful circular lesions Several may be present at the same time A fungal (vegetable) organism is not an animal parasite

Rancocasvalley.com

All forms are contagious
Easily transmitted FYI: Infected skin scales and hairs that contain the fungi are known to spread the disease

Bathtubs Swimming pools Unsanitary personal articles Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease Clients with this condition should be referred to a physician for medical treatment

TINEA CAPITIS Add to side bar: Ringworm of the scalp Characterized by red papules, or spots at opening of the hair follicles

patches spread ~hair brittle and lifeless hair often breaks off leaving only a stump may be shed from the enlarged open follicle

visualdx

Tinea favosa Add to side bar: honeycomb ringworm dry sulfur-yellow, cup-like crusts on the scalp called scutula distinctive odor

Scars: bald patches that may be pink or white and shiny
ADD:very contagious-refer to physician Doctorfungus.org Tinea capitis Tinea favosa

ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS
SCABIES itch is a highly contagious skin disease itch mite burrowing under the skin

vesicles (blisters) pustules (inflamed pimples with pus) usually form on the scalp from the irritation caused by this animal parasite excessive itching makes the condition worse

Stanford.edu

Stanford.edu Commonswikimedia.org Tunnel/burrow of parasite

Practicing approved sanitation. and disinfection procedures
Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease Clients with this condition should be referred to a physician for medical treatment

PEDICULOSIS CAPITIS infestation ~ hair and scalp ~ head lice feed on the scalp ~ dead skin cells itching ~ scratching can cause an infection transmitted

Pedistrics.about.com

Headlicetrix.com

Pediatrics.about.com Media.acbnews.com

Pediatrics.about.com

img.medscape.com/.../ jpg

Empty shell left after lice hatch
img.medscape.com/.../ jpg

cm.edu.qt

howtodo101.com/.../

contact with infested hats, combs, brushes and other personal articles
you can distinguish them from dandruff flakes by looking closely at the scalp with a magnifying glass

Practicing approved. sanitation and. disinfection procedures will
Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of this disease Several nonprescription medications are available

FYI Recently on the news, they reported that the lice are becoming resist to the shampoos that kill the lice. This means the lice will be much harder or impossible to get rid of. Clients with this condition should be referred to a physician or pharmacist

STAPHYLOCOCCI INFECTIONS
Are bacteria that infect the skin or scalp Furuncle: boil is an acute localized bacterial infection of the hair follicle that produces constant pain limited to a specific area produces a pustule perforated by a hair

Onlinehealthbook.com

Carbuncle: inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue ~ caused by staphylococci similar to furuncle only larger

Missinglinkucsf.edu

Practicing approved sanitation and. disinfection procedures will help
Practicing approved sanitation and disinfection procedures will help prevent the spread of these disease Clients with this condition should be referred to a physician for medical treatment

Q. What are the two ADD: chief purposes of hair? Protection Adornment

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