1. Instructors: George Crowl
ORD-8
Ordinary
Anchoring
This and other plans are for Sea Scout and leaders to teach maritime and leadership skills. They are based on the 2010 Sea Scout Manual and requirements. Some lessons have an accompanying PowerPoint presentation. I consider PowerPoint an introduction the topic, to be followed by hands-on practice. Several lessons will not have PowerPoint, usually because it is my judgement that PowerPoint is not an appropriate aid to teaching that lesson. Lesson plans and presentations will be added and modified when ready.
Each plan and presentation has the rank, requirement number and short name. LP means lesson plan, PPT means PowerPoint. APP means Apprentice, the number is the number of the requirement. ORD = Ordinary. ABL = Able. QM = Quartermaster. There are a few miscellaneous items as well.
I created these lesson plans primarily for the Houston area Sea Scout Academy. However, I hope that they are also useful for other Sea Scout situations and venues. So, I expect everyone using the lesson plans to modify them to fit their audience and their style. There are also other resources in the DVD with the Sea Scout Manual, and on
I invite comments from those that use these lesson plans, so we can have continuous improvement. If you are aware of a better example, or a great illustration that is not in them, please send them to me for inclusion. Especially, if I miss applying a change from the Sea Scout Manual, Guide to Safe Scouting, or a Coast Guard publication, please contact me so we can keep these current and accurate.
You may contact me at or George Crowl; Skipper, Ship 1996; Sam Houston Area Council
This PowerPoint is provided for those who may not have appropriate training aids available in a ship or location. This generally follows a companion lesson plan available at I expect you to modify it to fit your situation and teaching style. I am more concerned that Scouts learn than this fit a specific style. I am, however, a fan of the Effective Teaching model. Teaching EDGE is somewhat simplistic in its approach, but that has some advantages.
Philosophy: Sea Scout Academy’s primary purpose is to teach the material to the Sea Scout. If the Sea Scout demonstrates mastery of parts of the subject, then the instructor should annotate on the class roster what has been passed, in the instructor’s opinion. Skippers have the right to re-examine any Sea Scout in any requirement. (Knots are not a good subject to give a pass in.)
Instructors: George Crowl

2. Course Outline
a. Name the parts of a stock anchor and a stockless anchor
b. Describe five types of anchors. Describe how each type holds the bottom, the kind of bottom in which it holds best, and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
c. Calculate the amount of anchor rode necessary to your ship's primary vessel in the following depths: 10, 20, and 30 feet in normal and storm conditions.
d. Demonstrate the ability to set and weigh anchor.
Requirements:
Reference: See "Ground Tackle" on page 147.
Equipment Required: Ship 24 has miniature anchors and a sandbox for demonstration. Need as many different real anchors as possible. Strongly recommend having a real Danforth. Boat(s) with anchor(s) for weighing and setting anchor.
Ratio: 1:6 Instructor:Student, youth make good assistants.

3. ORD-8a Name the parts of a stock anchor and a stockless anchor
Definition: Stockless anchor does not have a “stock” crosspiece, and may be pulled up into the hawsepipes until the flukes meet the hull.
Parts of an anchor. Discuss the parts of an anchor first, so the students understand the language used. Identify the differences between a stock anchor and a stockless anchor.
Shank
Stock
Flukes
Crown
Palm
Blade
Etc.

4. Stock Anchor Parts As indicated above.
Stock Anchor Parts – some of these apply to stockless as well
Admiralty or Yachtsman's anchor on left, Danforth on right.
Shank – connects the rode end to the crown
Crown - “bottom” end
Stock – crosspiece that sets the flukes in position to dig in. Note that the Admiralty stock can be moved to make the anchor more storeable.
Arm – from the crown to the fluke
Fluke – the part that digs into the ground
Palm – inside of the fluke
Pee or Bill – point of the fluke
Key – holds the stock
Ring – Attaches the chain or rode
Balancing band – allows the anchor to be lifted horizontally
Tripping ring – allows the anchor to be lifted out from the bottom, reducing the stress of “breaking it out.”
As indicated above.

5. Stockless Anchor Parts
Stockless Anchor Parts – Those that are duplicates of stock anchor parts will not be repeated. Note that while the same names are used, usage is slightly different.
Shoulder – the edge of the crown
The Scout should be able to make the transition in names from the stock to the stockless anchor.
Having actual examples on hand is useful.
As indicated above.

6. ORD-8b
Describe five types of anchors. Describe how each type holds the bottom, the kind of bottom in which it holds best, and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
Types of anchors. Use the miniature anchors and sandbox to demonstrate the types of anchors. Use real anchors as available. Emphasize the Danforth anchor advantages and disadvantages, since it is the most common one in SHAC fleet.
Danforth: Strong holding power, stock at bottom
Plow or CQR: No stock, rarely fouls, harder to stow
Bruce or Claw: Sets quickly, handles turns
Mushroom: For permanent moorings, must be heavy
Grapnel: Temporary. Retrieves lost gear.
Homemade: Only for very small boat in calm water
Navy: For large ships, very heavy, not effective for small craft
Sea anchor: For use in heavy weather at sea

7. Danforth Anchor Buries well, high resistance to dragging.
Not good in weed, gravel. Can hook in rock, coral.
Can “skate” over ground.
Tends to break out with large direction change.
American Richard Danforth invented the Danforth pattern in the 1940s for use aboard landing craft. It uses a stock at the crown to which two large flat triangular flukes are attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient toward the bottom (and on some designs may be adjusted for an optimal angle depending on the bottom type). Tripping palms at the crown act to tip the flukes into the seabed. The design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop high resistance. Its lightweight and compact flat design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store; some anchor rollers and hawsepipes can accommodate a fluke-style anchor.
A Danforth will not usually penetrate or hold in gravel or weeds. In boulders and coral it may hold by acting as a hook. If there is much current, or if the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor, it may "kite" or "skate" over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a sail or wing. Once set, the anchor tends to break out and reset when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as with the changing tide, and on some occasions it might not reset but instead drag.[7]R

8. CQR or Plow Good in all bottoms, not great in any bottom.
Hinged shank less likely to break out.
Stowed on roller at bow.
CQR (secure) plough anchor[edit]
So named due to its resemblance to a traditional agricultural plough (or more specifically two ploughshares), many manufacturers produce a plough-style design, all based on or direct copies of the original CQR (Secure), a 1933 design patented in the UK (US patent in 1934[5]) by mathematician Geoffrey Ingram Taylor.[6] Ploughs are popular with cruising sailors and other private boaters. They are generally good in all bottoms, but not exceptional in any. The CQR design has a hinged shank, allowing the anchor to turn with direction changes rather than breaking out, while other plough types have a rigid shank. Plough anchors are usually stowed in a roller at the bow.
Owing to the use of lead or other dedicated tip-weight, the plough is heavier than average for the amount of resistance developed, and may take more careful technique and a longer period to set thoroughly. It cannot be stored in a hawsepipe.

9. Claw or Bruce Sets quickly in most seabeds.
Handles change of wind and tide well.
Difficulty with weeds and grass.
Need to be bigger to have same holding power.
Bruce or claw anchor
This claw-shaped anchor was designed by Peter Bruce from the Isle of Man in the 1970s.[13] Bruce gained his early reputation from the production of large-scale commercial anchors for ships and fixed installations such as oil rigs. The Bruce and its copies, known generically as "claws", have become a popular option for small boaters. It was intended to address some of the problems of the only general-purpose option then available, the plough. Claw-types set quickly in most seabeds and although not an articulated design, they have the reputation of not breaking out with tide or wind changes, instead slowly turning in the bottom to align with the force.
Claw types have difficulty penetrating weedy bottoms and grass. They offer a fairly low holding-power-to-weight ratio and generally have to be oversized to compete with newer types.[citation needed] On the other hand they have a good reputation in boulder bottoms, perform relatively well with low rode scopes and set fairly reliably. They cannot be used with hawsepipes.R

10. Navy Anchor Fits in a hawsepipe. Relies on weight to hold.
Usually too heavy for modern cruising.
A traditional type of anchor favoured because it easily fits into its hawsepipe against the side of ships. It relies mostly on it's heavy weight to hold. Navy anchors are not much use in modern yachts because they need to be very heavy to be effective.

11. Admiralty or Yachtman's
Penetrates weed and grass.
Softer bottoms, hard sand. Fluke size varies.
Need to be heavier than modern anchors.
Kedge anchor on right, lighter.
Kedge, Hereshoff, Fisherman and Yachtsman, Admiralty Pattern
Softer bottoms, hard sand, Rocks and Coral, Weeds
Used for centuries they are the traditional anchor shape we are used to. Modern kedge style anchors are lighter and have been adapted for specialized use. Sharp bills and small flukes hold better in hard sand. Broader flukes and larger arms hold better in soft bottoms or rocks and coral. Kedge anchors are often used successfully in heavy vegetation.
A more specialized anchor. When not used in specialized conditions, Kedge anchors should be heavier (sometime much heavier) than modern anchors to hold as well.

12. Mushroom Anchor Permanent Excellent holding power
Does come in smaller sizes!
Does not work well in weedy / rocky bottoms where it cannot sink below ground
Mushroom Anchor
Silt, Mud, mushroom
Permanent
Most often used as permanent mooring anchor. This style of anchor is designed to gradually dig itself deeper and once imbedded has excellent holding ability. It usually goes down. They are useful for anchoring racing marks. They do not hold very well until they are imbedded in the bottom. After imbedding they can have a holding power of as much as ten times its weight.
The Mushroom Anchor does not work in weedy or rocky bottoms where it can't bury itself.

13. Grapnel Anchor Best: coral, stone, heavy weeds. Lightweight.
Some are folding.
Might be used where anchor is required, but seldom used.
Can be used to drag the bottom for an object.
Grapnel
Coral, Stone, heavy weeds
Grapnel type anchors are useful in coral or where the flukes can grip something. Grapnel are less useful in mud or sand. Grapnel anchors are often used in dinghies or where their light weight or small size is an asset. Folding models and grapnels that come apart are available. Not for serious anchoring unless the bottom can be hooked. Sometimes useful when there is heavy vegetation and the thin flukes can penetrate while the outside ones grab vegetation.
Grapnel anchors are often seen where there is a legal requirement for an anchor but they are not likely to be used often, such as on dinghies. Tends to snag its rode at every turn!

14. Homemade Anchor Usually depends on weight.
Notice susceptability to rode chafing
OK for very small boats in smooth conditions only R

15. Sea Anchor Parachute or cone Hold bow to wind and waves
Deployed in storm conditions
Can be hard to deploy or recover
What are Drogues and Sea Anchors?
Drogues and Sea Anchors are devices which are used in open water conditions where anchoring is not possible, or in conditions where anchoring is not desirable. Drogues and Sea Anchors help stop the drift of a boat in difficult conditions including high wind or when there are large breaking waves. They can also be useful to help control a towed boat or a boat with damaged steering. They are deployed from the bow or stern of a boat and their effect is due to the drag they have.
What is a Sea Anchor?
A SEA ANCHOR is designed to stop the drift of a boat in open water. Sea anchors are usually deployed from the bow of a ship. They are often shaped like large parachutes.
What is a Drogue?
A Drogue is a device designed to slow down or help control the drift of a boat. It is not intended to stop most of the drift but rather to slow the boat down by pulling from the stern. Deploying a drogue not only has the effect of slowing down the boat and but it also helps keep it properly aligned thus improving control and safety. Drogues are usually deployed from the Stern.

16. ORD-8c
Calculate the amount of anchor rode necessary to your ship's primary vessel in the following depths: 10, 20, and 30 feet in normal and storm conditions.
Scope. A minimum scope of 7:1 for normal or up to 10:1 or even higher for storm is used. The scope ratio is the ratio between the distance from the bow or hawse hole to the bottom (i.e. bow three feet above water, plus 10 foot water depth equals 13 feet) and the total line paid out (in this case, at least 101 feet).
10 feet of water + 3 feet freeboard = 13 feet X 7 (scope) = 91 ft. Scope 10 = 130 feet.
20 feet of water + 3 feet freeboard = 23 feet X 7 (scope) = 161 ft. Scope 10 = 230 feet.
30 feet of water + 3 feet freeboard = 33 feet X 7 (scope) = 231 ft. Scope 10 = 330 feet.R

17. Normal vs. Storm Conditions
Lunch hook – Scope = 5X
Normal conditions – Scope = 7X
Storm conditions – Scope = 10X
A lunch hook is just what it says, stopping for lunch in calm seas/

18. What is X? X = depth of water + height of bow above water
Nominal 30' sloop has a bow about 3 feet above water
Galveston Bay has normal 10 foot water depth
= X 13 = 91 feet. 10 X 13 = 130 feet.
This shows the calculation principles. If you are using a different vessel or different location, change this slide to show what you need.

19. What is value for 20 foot depth?
The previous slide showed the calculations for 10 feet water depth and 3 foot bow. Have the students do the calculations for 20 feet. For the nominal 3' bow height, the answers are 161 and 230 feet.
= 23
23 x 7 =161’
23 x 10 = 230’

20. What is value for 30 foot depth?
The previous slide showed the calculations for 20 feet water depth and 3 foot bow. Have the students do the calculations for 30 feet. For the nominal 3' bow height, the answers are 231 and 330 feet.
= 33
33 x 7 = 231’
33 x 10 = 330’

21. ORD-8d Demonstrate the ability to set and weigh anchor.
Set and Weigh. This exercise may be done in rowboats, powerboats, or sailboats. Sailboats will take the longest time to do properly, since doing it under sail takes a longer time. Have the students determine wind and current direction. Explain why they want to drop anchor on the upwind or upcurrent edge of the anchoring area. Have them do so, then have them set the anchor by reversing direction downwind or downcurrent. Then have them recover the anchor by going up with bow to the wind until the anchor breaks out of the ground. Each should function as anchor deploy/recover and as helm.
The information below comes primarily from

22. Anchoring 1. Prepare in advance 2. Pick your spot carefully
3. Approach slowly, upwind, upcurrent
4. Lower, do not drop, the anchor
5. Set the anchor (back down)
6. Pay out the proper scope
7. Check the anchor periodically
Good anchoring technique is crucial for safety.
Yet all too often even some experienced sailors are in too much of a hurry and skip one of the important steps for anchoring securely. Some new sailors never learn the essentials and just toss the anchor overboard and assume they’ll be fine.
But it is not difficult to anchor correctly and securely in most conditions. Follow these guidelines to help ensure your boat is safely anchored so you can get a good night’s sleep.
1. Prepare in Advance
Pick your anchorage carefully using an updated chart and paying attention to conditions, including wind direction and speed, likely tidal or other currents, and the forecast. Pay special attention to the chances for a shift in wind direction or speed. If your boat is pulled in the opposite direction during the night because of a reversing tidal current or wind, the anchor may be pulled out.
The ideal anchorage area should have some protection from the wind and waves and not be against a lee shore in case the anchor drags. The ideal bottom is sand or mud, not rock or heavy seaweed or grass. Most cruising guides and some charts show good anchorages that are protected and have good holding ground. Charts also show bottom characteristics when known.
Get the anchor ready before making your approach. Whether on a bow roller or lowered by hand from the bow, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If the anchor rode is not marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it out back and forth on deck so that you know how much rode you are letting out when anchoring. To be safe, plan to put out a rode about 7 times the water depth (counting the height of your bow over the water) at high tide.
Set and Weigh. This exercise may be done in rowboats, powerboats, or sailboats. Sailboats will take the longest time to do properly, since doing it under sail takes a longer time. Have the students determine wind and current direction. Explain why they want to drop anchor on the upwind or upcurrent edge of the anchoring area. Have them do so, then have them set the anchor by reversing direction downwind or downcurrent. In a sailboat, you will need to use the wind and/or current to “back down” the vessel.
When you have payed out the amount of scope needed, cleat or stop your anchor rode. The anchor should not drag. If it drags (you continue to go backwards with the wind or tide), you will have to retrieve the anchor and try a somewhat different spot to get the anchor to hold.
To weigh the anchor, pull the rode with the bow to the wind. Part of the deck crew should use an arm to point in the direction of the anchor and rode. Helm should assist in turning in that direction. Bring in rode until the anchor breaks out of the ground. If the rode is straight up and down, and does not want to break out, bring several people to the bow (bow down), cleat the rode, and send them all to the stern. That will normally break the anchor out.
Each Scout should function as anchor deploy/recover and as helm.

23. Weighing Anchor Plan exit – wind, current, other boats
Weigh under power if possible. Don't sheet in sails.
Bring in rode until directly over anchor, break free.
Raise anchor in place
Proceed outbound. Sheet in sails as needed.
Fouled anchor – prevention is best – trip line
Cleat hard, raise bow – OR motor forward
Retrieving your anchor is usually a simple process although it calls for advance planning to avoid problems that can occur. In addition, if the anchor fouls on the bottom and refuses to come up, you need to take additional steps.
Follow these steps to retrieve your anchor safely and without sudden problems when the anchor breaks free:
Plan your approach and exit before getting started. Consider the wind, any current, and the proximity of other anchored boats or obstructions in the area.
When possible, it's safer and easier to weigh anchor under power. If you must raise the anchor under sail, be sure you have a clear path to set sail immediately once the anchor breaks free. Raise the sail(s) before starting, but keep the sheets free so that the sails are not drawing as you manually pull the boat forward by taking in the anchor rode.
Motor slowly toward the anchor, staying downwind, while crew on the bow (or the windlass) brings in the rode. Your goal is to get directly over the anchor before breaking it free.
When the bow of the boat is directly over the anchor and the pull of the rode is straight up, the anchor should break free. Once the crew signals that the anchor is coming up, use the engine to try to keep the boat in the same position until the anchor reaches the boat. If there is too much wind or current to hover in place, turn in your direction of exit but go as slowly as possible.
If under sail, and the boat is facing the wind as the anchor breaks free, wait until the anchor is up and secure before backing the jib or mainsail to turn the bow so you can sail off. If you must sail off only on one particular tack, then back the jib to the other side just before breaking the anchor free, to ensure you'll be going in the right direction.
If you are singlehanded, your goal is to get the anchor up as quickly as possible before the boat drifts into trouble. Never leave the engine in gear if you must go to the bow yourself. If conditions are such that the boat simply will not hold its position long enough to get the anchor aboard, you can cleat the rode temporarily and run back to the engine controls to change direction or motor in reverse to stop movement, then hurry back to the bow to continue raising it. Obviously, if the boat is moving, control its direction toward deeper water so that the anchor does not hit bottom again before you can return to the bow to raise it rest of the way.

24. Questions? R