1. Grades for Assignment 1

2. Linear (Airy) Wave Theory
Mathematical relationships to describe wave movement in deep, intermediate, and shallow (?) water
We’ll obtain expressions for the movement of water particles under passing waves - important to considerations of sediment transport --> coastal geomorphology.
Works v. well, but only applicable when L >> H
Originates from Navier Stokes --> Euler Equations
Solution is eta relationship - write eqn. and draw on blackboard - show dependence on x,t
Wave Number: k = 2/L
Radian Frequency:  = 2/T

3. Water Surface Displacement Equation
What is the wave height?
What is the wave period?

4. Dispersion Equation Door Number 1 = Relationship for wavelength
Fundamental relationship in Airy Theory - put eqns. 5-8, 5-9 on blackboard
These are tough to solve, as L is on both sides of equality and contained within hyperbolic trigonometric function.
Compilation of Airy Equations - Table 5-2, p. 163 in Komar
Door Number 1 =
Relationship for wavelength
Door Number 2 =
Relationship for celerity

5. Effect of the Hyperbolic Trig Functions on Wave Celerity
What’s the relationship for celerity in deep water?
What’s the relationship for celerity in shallow water?

6. So the celerity illustrated is…
General Expression:
SWS, only depth dependent
DWS, T=16 s
Gen’l Soln., T=16 s
DWS, T=14 s
Gen’l Soln., T=14 s
Deep-water expression:
DWS, T=12 s
Gen’l Soln., T=12 s
DWS, T=10 s
Gen’l Soln., T=10 s
DWS, T=8 s
Gen’l Soln., T=8 s
Shallow-water expression: