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Dressing Miss Johnson
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Laws Laws restricted a man’s rights to wear certain fabrics and colours For example, only the royal family could wear gold and purple Law restricted the spending of money on cloth to two shillings per yard The law also restricted the cut and style by occupation Acts of Apparel those who worked on land forbidden to wear imported cloth also, restricted to the cheaper, native wools
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Production of the Cloth
Cloth was mostly wool shepherds first washed their sheep then, they sheared their sheep with hand shears, a single man could shear thirty in one day the wool was then combed to clean out grass, twigs, and filth then, it was spun on a drop spindle or spinning wheel women spun the wool the wool was then woven together this was usually a man’s job the wool would then be dyed and sold brightest shades were the most expensive to produce res, blacks, deep blues, and verdant greens were costly pale blue, orangey-pink were mid-price undyed remained the cheapest option
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Expense of the Cloth clothing was expensive
Cloth had to meet specific needs protection from the cold, the wind, and the rain withstand the wear of his job long lasting socially acceptable couldn’t be underdressed, or indecent couldn’t be overdressed, or be ridiculed for his extravagance
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Cloths Frieze Russet Cloth Canvas bulky, coarse wool woven loosely
shed water well commonly used for coats Russet Cloth softer less water resistant commonly used for doublets and hose Canvas used for heavy wear often used for
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Men’s Clothes A Gown Doublets Hose Codpiece
short, around knee-length, or long, around ankle-length worn by sedentary individuals or by those who had more active jobs on Sunday Doublets provided warmth and held up the hose Hose from waist to toe held in place by paired holes that were tied to the doublet usually tight most tight on the sides especially, for working men who would often loosen or undo the ties in the front and back while working often a bit baggy at the knee; a garter was often tied just below the knee to smooth out the hose and hold it in place most common colours are black and white bright colors usually only worn by the aristocracy probably usually creams, beiges, greys, and browns Codpiece piece of cloth tied across the front opening
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Women’s Clothes Smock made of linen no knickers Hose
hem sits at mid-calf laundered easily no knickers Hose ended at the knees held up by a garter tied below the knee Covered by a Kirtle a full length dress that was sleeved and laced together Gown worn over everything
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Amounts of Clothes basic clothing was a luxury Aristocrats Servants
owned several dozen shirts changed once a day Servants a single leather doublet a single pair of hose three canvas shirts changed weekly servants were often better dressed than independent labouring people underclothes included shirts, smocks, under-breeches, hose, ruffs, cuffs, bands, coifs, and caps
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Hats and Hair A law to wear hats hats typically waterproof
all men and boys over the age of five and below the rank of gentlemen were to wear hats on Sundays hats typically waterproof Young, unmarried women could show their hair a bound ponytail or plait a cap or band was tied or pinned to the head
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Ruffs near universal ruffage among the aristocracy and senior gentry
created using starch and pressing however, difficult to wear helped wearers maintain style and behavior that was conducive to manners
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Fasteners Women’s Men’s Clothing was held together with pins
labourer’s wife could wear four or five pins a lady at court could wear a thousand at once Laces hair could be controlled kirtles and corsets were laced together Men’s Points short strips of leather, cloth, or baid with metal aiglets like shoelaces, were used to tie clothes together Buttons item of display
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The Importance of Clothing
Clothing visually placed a man within society a man’s appearance denoted his credit-worthiness if you know who a man is, you know how to interact with him how much respect to show This lead to many con artists
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Business of Clothes Hats, stockings, and gloves sold as finished items
Underwear was made at home every woman knew how to make under clothes and many men Clothes, however, had to be made tailor made first, you bought cloth and trimmings then, you visited the tailor and chose your style pre-worn, second hand clothes
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