1. Stocks and Sauces
Chapter 8

2. Stocks and Sauces
French word for stock is fond, meaning “foundation” or “base.”
This “foundation” indicates the importance of stocks.
The ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of all culinary skills.

3. Stocks
Stock: A clear, thin unthickened liquid flavored by soluble substances extracted from:
Meat, poultry, or fish
Meat, poultry, or fish bones
Vegetables
Seasonings

4. Stocks Ingredients The objective in preparing stocks is to:
Select the proper ingredients.
Extract the flavors we want.
Combine the correct ingredients with the correct procedure.

5. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)
Bones are the major ingredient of stocks (except water, of course).
Most of the flavor and body of stocks are derived from the bones.
Vegetable stocks draw their flavor entirely from vegetables.

6. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Bones
The kinds of bones used determine the kind of stock:
Chicken stock: made from chicken bones.
White stock: made from beef or veal bones.
Fish stock: made from fish bones and trimmings left over after filleting.

7. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Bones (cont’d)
Connective tissues (called collagen) break down and form gelatin. This gives body to a stock.
A well-made stock thickens or even solidifies when chilled.
Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones.
Younger animals have more cartilage than mature animals.
Bones with lots of cartilage, used in stock-making:
Knuckle bones
Neck bones
Shank bones

8. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Meat
Rarely used in stock-making because of its cost.
Chicken hearts and gizzards are often used in chicken stock.
Broth is a flavorful liquid produced as a result of simmering meat or poultry.

9. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Mirepoix
Mirepoix : A combination of onions, carrots, and celery:
White mirepoix: parsnips are sometimes substituted for carrots.
Used when it is necessary to keep the stock as colorless as possible.
Usually for white beef or veal stock and fish stock.
Celery root may be substituted for celery.

10. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Acid Products
Acids help dissolve connective tissues.
Tomato products contribute flavor and some acid to brown stocks.
Too much tomato can make the stock cloudy.
Wine is occasionally used, especially for fish stocks. Its flavor contribution is probably more important than its acidity.

11. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Seasonings and Spices
Salt is usually not added as stocks are reduced, concentrated, and combined with other ingredients.
Herbs and spices are usually tied in a cheesecloth bag called a sachet d’épices (French for “spice bag”).
The sachet is tied by a string to the handle of the stockpot so it can be removed easily at any time.

12. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Seasonings and Spices (cont’d)
Bouquet garni : an assortment of fresh herbs and other aromatic ingredients tied in a bundle with string.
Contains pieces of leek and celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and parsley stems.

13. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Seasonings and Spices (cont’d)
The following seasonings, in varying quantities, are commonly used for stocks:
Thyme
Parsley stems
Bay leaves
Cloves, whole
Peppercorns
Garlic (optional)

14. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Seasonings and Spices (cont’d)
Onions for Flavoring
Oignon piqué : A whole, peeled onion onto which a bay leaf is attached by a whole clove.
Oignon brûlé : French for “burnt onion.” At times, it is added to brown stock to give color as well as flavor.

15. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Ingredient Proportions
Cooks use ratios to help them remember the basic proportions, as follows:
Bones: 80 percent
Mirepoix: 10 percent
Water: 100 percent

16. Stocks INGREDIENTS (CONT’D) Ingredients for Vegetable Stocks
The basic ingredients for vegetable stocks are:
Vegetables
Herbs and spices
Water
Wine (sometimes)

17. Stocks Procedures Blanching Bones
The purpose of blanching bones is to rid them of the impurities that cause cloudiness.
The bones of young animals, especially veal and chicken, are highest in impurities that cloud and discolor stocks.

18. Procedure PREPARING WHITE STOCK Step 1 2
Place the bones in a stockpot and cover with cold water. 2
Skim the scum from the surface regularly.

19. PREPARING WHITE STOCK (CONT’D)
Procedure
PREPARING WHITE STOCK (CONT’D)
Step 3
Add white mirepoix to the pot. 4
Add a sachet d’épices. Tie the sachet to the pot handle so it may be retrieved easily.

20. Procedure PREPARING BROWN STOCK Step 1 2
Roast the bones in a moderately hot oven until well browned. 2
Place the bones in a stockpot and add the appropriate amount of water.

21. PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D)
Procedure
PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D)
Step 3
Brown the mirepoix. Add the browned mirepoix to the stockpot. 4
Deglaze the roasting pan with water. Add the liquid to the stockpot.

22. PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D)
Procedure
PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D)
Step 5
Simmer slowly for 8 hours. 6
Strain the stock through a china cap lined with cheesecloth.

23. Procedure PREPARING FISH STOCK Step 1 2
Sweat the mirepoix and fish bones in butter. 2
Add the white wine and bring to a simmer.
Simmer for 30 minutes.

24. PREPARING FISH STOCK (CON’T)
Procedure
PREPARING FISH STOCK (CON’T)
Step 3
Skim as necessary to remove scum. 4
Strain through a china cap lined with cheesecloth

25. Stocks PROCEDURES (CONT’D)
Remouillage and Other Stock-Related Procedures
Remouillage : A stock made from bones that were already used once to make stock.
The literal meaning of the French term is “rewetting.”
Dashi: Basic Japanese stock.
Quickly and easily made from only three ingredients:
Water
Shaved, dried bonito, called katsuobushi
Dried seaweed or kelp, called kombu

26. Stocks REDUCTIONS AND GLAZES
Reduction: Stocks that are concentrated by boiling or simmering them to evaporate part of the water.
Glaze or glace: A stock reduced until it coats the back of a spoon.
Meat glaze, or glace de viande
Chicken glaze, or glace de volaille
Fish glaze, or glace de poisson

27. Stocks CONVENIENCE BASES Judging Quality
Bases vary greatly in quality. The best ones are composed mainly of meat extracts.
Many bases are made primarily from salt.
Read the list of ingredients, many also contain food coloring
Using Bases
Using bases requires taste and judgment.
Always taste and evaluate as you cook.
There is no substitute for a well-made stock.

28. Sauces Understanding Sauces
Sauce: A flavorful liquid, usually thickened, used to season, flavor, and enhance other foods.
A sauce adds the following qualities to foods:
Moistness
Flavor
Richness
Appearance (color and shine)
Interest and appetite appeal

29. UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)
The Structure of Sauces
The major sauces are made of three kinds of ingredients:
A liquid, the body of the sauce
A thickening agent
Additional seasoning and flavoring ingredients

30. UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)
The Structure of Sauces (cont’d)
Liquid
Leading sauces or mother sauces
White stock (chicken, veal, or fish): for velouté sauces
Brown stock: for brown sauce or Española
Milk: for béchamel
Tomato plus stock: for tomato sauce
Clarified butter: for hollandaise

31. UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)
Stocks and Sauces
UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)
Thickeners
Roux : A cooked mixture of equal parts by weight of fat and flour.
Beurre manié : A mixture of equal parts soft, raw butter and flour worked together to form a smooth paste.
Liaison : A mixture of egg yolks and cream, used to enrich and lightly thicken a sauce or other liquid.
Roux
Liaison

32. Stocks and Sauces FINISHING TECHNIQUES
Reduction concentrates flavor, adjusts textures, and adds new flavors.
Straining removes lumps.
Deglazing is swirling liquid in pan to dissolve cooked particles.
Heavy cream used to give flavor and richness to sauce.
Monter au beurre is to “finish with butter.”
Add a few pieces of softened butter to the hot sauce.
Swirl them in until melted.
The sauce should then be served immediately.

33. Sauces Sauce Families Leading Sauces
Liquid + Thickening agent = Leading sauce
Leading sauce + Additional flavorings = Small sauce
Standards of quality for sauces:
Consistency and body
Flavor
Appearance

34. Sauces PRODUCTION Béchamel: Small sauces: Cream Sauce Mornay Sauce
Cheddar Cheese Sauce
Mustard Sauce
Soubise Sauce
Nantua Sauce

35. Sauces PRODUCTION (CONT’D) Velouté: Suprême sauce Allemande sauce
White Wine sauce
Small Sauces:
Poulette, Aurora, Hungarian, Curry, Mushroom, Albufera/Ivory, Bercy, Herb, Normandy, Anchovy, Shrimp, Venetian, Horseradish

36. Sauces PRODUCTION (CONT’D) Espagnole or Brown Sauce
Hearty, flavorful sauce
Fond lié or jus lié
Demi-glace
Small Sauces:
Bordelaise
Périgueux
Piquant
Marchand de Vin
Poîvrade
Lyonnaise
Robert
Port Wine
Bigarade
Charcutière
Italian Sauce
Chasseur
Mushroom
Diable (Deviled)
Bercy
Madeira

37. SAUCES PRODUCTION (CONT’D) Tomato Sauce Butter Sauces Small Sauces:
Portugaise (Portuguese)
Spanish
Creole
Butter Sauces
Melted butter
Clarified butter
Beurre noisette
Beurre noir
Meunière butter
Compound butter
Beurre blanc

38. SAUCES PRODUCTION (CONT’D) Hollandaise and Béarnaise Hollandaise Sauce
Béarnaise Sauce
Small Sauces:
Maltaise
Mousseline
Foyot
Choron