1. University of New Hampshire
Greener Denim Manufacturing
Nikol Petrosova
University of New Hampshire
Abstract
Some studies estimate that producing the garment in everyone’s wardrobe, jeans, takes a large toll on the environment and resources. Is there a way to improve the manufacturing process? I contacted Levi’s manufacturing to find out; they are actively pursuing sustainability and greening the process.
Discussion
Clothing is a necessity and it is produced by the millions. However, because of the demands of the manufacturing process it is not entirely sustainable, which leads to thinking of greener ways of production.
There are a set of Green Chemistry Principles that we can apply to better understand the relationship between green chemistry and denim manufacturing.
Waste prevention is a principle that focuses on prioritizing the prevention of waste, and reducing the amount of waste we put out in the environment. By Levi’s Waste<Less product line, over 11 million recycled water bottles were used in production, reducing the amount of plastic water bottles that end up in the environment.
Less hazardous chemical synthesis is designing chemical reactions and being as safe as possible, taking into account hazardous waste substances. Traditionally, the finishing process of jeans involved hazardous chemicals. However, with Levi’s Water<Less process, the amount of water used in the finishing process has been decreased by 30 million liters, as well as using recycled water and less abrasive chemicals.
Design for energy efficiency focuses on choosing the least energy-intensive way to run. Distribution centers are responsible for almost 60% of the energy consumption, but with energy efficient lighting system, 20 – 40% of that energy is saved. As well as electricity generated from green power providers and renewable resources.
There are also ways we can relate to Organic Chemistry.
This project can relate to organic chemistry by looking at the process itself. Organic chemistry focuses on the optimization of organic reactions, and producing the least amount of waste.
We can also look at how this process creates new ways of synthesizing compounds to make better, more sustainable products.
Introduction
Denim has been around in the US since the 1800’s, known for its durability
Levi Strauss was one of the original “blue jeans” manufacturers for the mine workers, and Levi’s is a successful company today
Originally, blue jeans dyed from Indigo plants
Currently denim is dyed with synthetic indigo, and chemically treated to give different washes for fashion
None of these chemicals are sustainable or safe for the environment
One pair of jeans requires over 2,500 gallons of water, vast amounts of energy, and an abundance of chemicals
Action
For my action portion of my project, I contacted one of Levi’s manufacturing factory sites to ask about how they focus on greener manufacturing and sustainability, especially their “Water<Less” process when producing their products. Levi’s claims that this process reduces the amount of water used in the finishing process of their jeans, as well as other programs that reduce waste and actually produce jeans from recycled water bottles and other materials.
Outcomes
From speaking with manufacturing I’ve learned:
Levi’s actively supports better work programs to improve worker conditions in fabric mills
Large scaled distribution centers are responsible for 60% of total energy consumption
Employing new lighting systems in their facilities yield energy savings of 20 – 40%
In some centers, electricity comes from a green power provider from 100% renewable resources, and is expanding
Levi’s “Water<Less” process launched in 2011, has saved more than 1 billion liters of water in production
30 million liters of fresh water has been saved through recycling
Levi’s aims to make 80% of products using Water<Less by 2020
“Wellthread” Collection features first Water<Less fabric, saving more than 65% of water in the dying process
The finishing process uses 50% less water
“Waste<Less” Collection also contains products made from 20% recycled plastic bottles, an average of 3 – 8 plastic bottles for each pair of jeans
Since 2013, 11.9 million recycled plastic bottles used in the Waste<Less product line
References
Coyle, J, (2012, June 18). Sustainable denim manufacturing process creates 'green' jeans - American Chemical Society. Retrieved November 16th, fromhttps:// Claudio, L. (2007). Waste Couture: Environmental Impact of the Clothing Industry. Retrieved November 16, 2016, from 
Suppliers & Operations - Levi Strauss. Retrieved November 25, 2016, from History of Jeans and Denim. (n.d.). Retrieved November 16, 2016, from