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Ingredient Trends and Innovation in Sun Protection
IN-COSMETICS global – London, 5th April 2017 Maria Coronado robles, ANALYST - Ingredients research Good afternoon, welcome everybody and thank you all very much for coming today. My name is Maria , I work at Euromonitor International and I am responsible for ingredients in beauty and personal care and home care industries. It seems that it is a good timing with the summer just around the corner (well some days more than others/ specially today).
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ABOUT EUROMONITOR INTERNATIONAL
Euromonitor International – Strategic Market Research Euromonitor International is a leading market research company, with 12 offices around the world, we research different industries and Ingredients is one of them.
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sunscreen ingredients Global market Consumer demand innovation in sun protection the western European sun protection market Latest innovations and future opportunities We will start the presentation with an overview of the global market for sunscreen ingredients in BPC. Later we will discuss how consumers needs and preferences are having an impact in the sun protection industry Then we will focus on the Western European sun protection market Finally we will highlight key area of innovation with some examples of products and ingredients 3
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sunscreen ingredients: Global market
Sunscreen Ingredients in Beauty and Personal Care Asia-Pacific Main global growth driver Here we can see the market size in Tonnes for sunscreen ingredients in Beauty and personal care in 2015 as well as the forecast volume in 2020 in different regions across the world. The colours in the graphic bellow represent the different regions in the map. The global market is projected to reach tonnes by 2020, with an overall increase in demand of (forecast to growth by) tonnes between 2015 and 2020. NA will remain the largest market but it is loosing 6% of its market share while all other regions are expected to gain traction, specially Asia Pacific (in orange) with a 3% increase in its market share. North America Largest market Losing share as emerging markets gain momentum Market size, Tonnes
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sunscreen ingredients: Global market
Top Ten Markets for Sunscreen Ingredients in Beauty and Personal Care 70% GLOBAL MARKET (2015) GERMANY 1300 T SPAIN 1200 T UK 900 T ITALY 800 T FRANCE 600 T 6% CAGR 7% CAGR USA 9,600 T Main global market 10% CAGR 5% CAGR 1% CAGR 6% CAGR BRAZIL 3200 T CHINA T JAPAN 800 T SOUTH KOREA 600 T 11% CAGR Looking at the sunscreen market at country we see that 70% of the global demand is concentrated in 10 countries with NA being the main global market with Tonnes. Brazil is the second largest market with 3000 Tonnes followed by China. Other relevant markets are Germany, Spain, the UK, Italy and France in Western Europe as well as Japan and South Korea in Asia. NA is the region with the slower growth in the forecast period ( ) with a surprisingly low CAGR of 1%, while Brazil and China are projected to growth at the highest CARG (11%). 11% CAGR 3% CAGR *CAGR ( ) 5% CAGR
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sunscreen ingredients: Global market
Commercially Available UV Filters INCI Name / USAN Name Abbreviation Globally approved Bis-Ethylhexyloxyphenol Methoxyphenyl Triazine / Bemotrizinol BEMT No Butyl Methoxydibenzoylmethane / Avobenzone BMBM Yes Terephthalylidene Dicamphor Sulfonic Acid / Ecamsule TDSA Zinc Oxide ZnO Benzophenone-3 / Oxybenzone BP3 Diethylhexyl Butamido Triazone / Iscotrizinol DBT Ethylhexyl Methoxycinnamat e/ Octinoxate EHMC Ethylhexyl Salicylate / Octisalate EHS Ethylhexyl Triazone / Octyltriazone ETH Homosalate HMS Octocrylene OCR Phenylbenzimidazol Sulfonic Acid / Ensulizole PBSA Titanium Dioxide TiO2 There are different types of UV filters available in the market and not all of them are globally approved. This table provides list of some of the most used UV filters. The table contain the INCI name of the ingredient which is the International Name for Cosmetic Ingredients as well as the names used in the US. The second column contain the abbreviation (ZnO or HSM) and the last column indicates whether the ingredient is globally approved or not. * Others refers to any other UV filter not included in the table
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sunscreen ingredients: Global market
Challenges in Sunscreen Formulation LEGISLATION TYPE OF RADIATION PATENTS COMPATIBILITY PRICE Sunscreens are comple formulation and its complexity is due to different reasons: Legislation: Sunscreens are regulated in all developed countries. Each country has a list of authorized ingredients and their maximum allowable concentrations in final products and the conditions under which they can be used, which are classified as cosmetics or over-the-counter drugs. This means that not all the ingredients are globally approved. In the US sunscreen products are regulated by the FDA and considered as over-the-counter drugs and as a results there are less UV filters available, while in Europe UV sunscreens are classified as cosmetics. Type of radiation: UV filters classified depending on the type of radiation they protect against Patents: Another complication that some ingredients can only be used by certain companies which owns the patent. For instance L’Oreal has patented TDSA (also known as Meroxyl SX). Compatibility: The stability and compatibility of UV filters are important to formulators. Not all filers are compatible between them. For instance, it is known that certain filters desestabilize Avobenzone (which has been for years the only UVA filter globally approved that protect from long wave UVA raditations). Price: As always, prize matters. Filters that have been recently developed of approved are usually more expensive than those that have been around for many years.
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sunscreen ingredients: Global market
The Evolution of Sun Protection UVB UVB & UVA II BROAD SPECTRUM FUTURE ? NOW First sunscreen SPF on labels UVA protection Different regulations UVB / Full UVA Well now that we have the big picture of the market of sunscreen ingredients, let me tell you a bit of the history of these ingredients. The first commercial sunscreen appears in the market before the mid nineties. These products were very different to the ones we have today, they were very greasy and sticky, obviously non-water resistant and they only protected from UVB rays which are the ones that protects from sun burn and skin cancer. In the 70s tanning became more popular and there was an increasing interest in sunscreens. What we know now as the SPF (the sun protection factor) started to appear in the label of the products and higher SPF became the norm. In the 80s we discovered that UVA rays are also damaging the skin and products containing UVA filters started to be commercially available. At this moment the FDA in NA classified these ingredients as Over the count drugs while in Europe they have always been classified as cosmetics. These differences in legislation has had an impact in the global market since then. Currently, the effectiveness of sunscreen products is quantifiable using two indicators, the SPF (Sun Protection Factor) and the UVA-PF. New UV filters are continuously developed and approved. The EU has recently approved the use of nano-ZnO in sunscreen which enables brands to meet consumer needs more easily. Each approval of a UV filter offers new options and a wider choice for formulators of sun care products to provide vital protection for the skin against these harmful effects of UV radiation. In the past decade, daily skincare products with UV filters are more prevalent. This is the history of sunscreens but how the future looks like is something that we will try to answer during this presentation.
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sunscreen ingredients: Global market
Type of UV Filter in Beauty and Personal Care North America Sunscreens provide less UVA protection 9% Minerals 11% Minerals In this slide we can see four graphics for NA, WE, AP and LA. The different blue colours in the map represent the proportion of the UV filters used in the formulations according to the radiation they protect from (UVB, UVA or broad spectrum). We can easily see at first sight that NA, has the highest proportion of UVB filters (60%) and the lowest proportion of broad spectrum. This means that fewer products in NA have UVA coverage, this is linked to its more restrictive regulation which slow the development and approval of new UV filters. In contrast, in AP half the UV filters are broad spectrum (UVA + UVB). In NA, WE and LA, 90% of the market is organic sunscreens because they are generally less expensive are easier to formulate with. However, in AP 35% of the market is inorganic sunscreens. This is linked to the higher use of sun protection in skin care products which usually contains mineral filters rather than chemicals ones and also to consumer preferences for mineral filters perceived as more natural. 11% Minerals 35% Minerals
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sunscreen ingredients: Global market
Growth Opportunities for Sunscreen Ingredients in Beauty and Personal Care CAGR % ( ) The higher the SPF the more UVA/UVB absorbers have to be used as only by using a cocktail of ingredients is it possible to achieve much above SPF12. The figure shows the expected growth (in CAGR) for the most used UV filters divided by the type of radiation they protect from in the forecast period ( ). The colours of the dots are linked to the different regions also coloured in the map. Homosalate is expected to be fastest growing UVB filter between 2015 and Although homosalate alone is not able to provide high SPF, is an affordable UV filter that is globally accepted to be used in high proportions (up to 10% in Europe and 15% in NA). It is usually combined with other filters due to its high compatibility with all of them, to reach high protection in mass market products. It is a liquid filter able to dissolve solid filters such as avobenzone (one of the most used UVA filters) and even stabilize Avobenzone. Octocrylene and benzophenone are oil soluble UV filters that protect against (UVA & UVB). Although both are relatively weak, they are added to the sunscreen formulations for higher SPF and to stabilize the other UV filters in the formulation. Octocrylene is a UV filter and SPF booster that also stabilize Avobenzone. BP has the slowest growth in Western Europe while it is expected to growth faster in emerging markets. Despite Benzophenone is a poor UVA filter and with many questions over its safety for both human health and env impact (its believed to be responsible for the bleeching of the coral reef) and its use is replaced with Avobenzone and TDSA which are the only globabally accepted UVA absorbers TDSA / Meroxyl SX patented by L’Oreal is projected to growth faster in LA and this is due to the expected increase in the market share for L’Oreal in this region. ZnO: There is a strong growth for ZnO in Western Europe due to the new regulation in place that allow the use of nano-ZnO in sunscreen formulations in Europe. TDSA Mexoryl SX EHMN Octinoxate BEMT Tinorsob S UV filters classified depending on the type of radiation they protect against HMS and EHS benefiting from the high SPF trend BP has the slowest growth in Western Europe ZnO is faster broad spectrum UV filter in Western Europe EHMC and BEMT only growing in Asia Pacific EHMC s becoming less popular because it degradates BMBM TiO2 and ZnO low price and very effective UVB UVB /UVA II UVA I UVB / UVA I-II
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sunscreen ingredients: Global market
Sunscreen Ingredients in Beauty and Personal Care by Category We all know a lot about the market for UV filters in BPC, but where are these ingredients mainly used? As expected sun care is the largest category where these ingredients are included. Accounting from 75% in WE to up to 90% in LA. AP is a more fragmented market with 35% of the sunscreen ingredients being used in skincare products. Asia Pacific The most fragmented market
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sunscreen ingredients Global market Consumer demand innovation in sun protection the western European sun protection market Latest innovations and future opportunities Consumers are becoming more demanding and this is having an impact on the sun protection industry. In the next slide we are going to see how consumers preferences and needs are affecting products and ingredients. 12
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Consumers demand innovation in sun protection
Consumers Want More Consumers Ingredients SUNSCREENS BOTANICALS & VITAMINS SYNTHETIC POLYMERS EMOLLIENTS SURFACTANTS / PRESERVATIVES. SKIN CONDITIONING / SKIN BENEFITING AGENTS ALCOHOL / WAXES HIGHER SUN PROTECTION BEYOND SUN PROTECTION WATER RESISTANCE IMPROVED SENSORIAL FEELING MILDNESS CONVENIENCE Consumers wants more! Although consumers preferences varies across the world, there are some common trends. Consumers demand MORE protection, against all environmental aggressors such as UV radiation and pollution. This is having an impact on the market for sunscreens, botanicals and vitamins among other ingredients. Consumers also demand lighter textures that offer longer lasting protection even after water immersion and this is rising demand for synthetic polymers and lighter emollients. Mildness, convenience and added benefits are also among the top consumers preferences which is driving demand for skin conditioning and benefiting agents, milder surfactants, alcohol and waxes. ADDED BENEFITS
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sunscreen ingredients Global market Consumer demand innovation in sun protection the western European sun protection market Latest innovations and future opportunities In the next slides we will be focussed in the sun protection market in Western Europe. 14
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the WESTERN European sun protection market
Opportunities for Growth in Western Europe Huge opportunities Big opportunities Small opportunities Further Opportunities 2500 1400 1200 The bubble chart in this slide shows the Absolute Volume Growth in the forecast period ( ) versus the projected CAGR for the same period. Sunscreens in orange present huge opportunities for growth in Absolute volume but the slowest growth (in terms of CGRS). Emollient esters and alcohol presents big opportunities in absolute volume growth, while synthetic polymers and botanicals (traditionally used in after-sun products are increasingly being used in sun protection driven by the trend towards natural ingredients but also the growing number of anti-pollution sunscreens) with smaller opportunities to growth in absolute volume are projected to grow faster. While vitamins show small absolute growth and slow growth rate. In addition to this, there are high-value ingredients such as peptides that presents further opportunities for growth. In the next four slides we will see all this ingredients and its opportunities for growth in more detail. 300
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the WESTERN European sun protection market
Huge Opportunities for UV Filters Consumers are demanding products with higher protection and UV filter is the basic ingredient that provide this protection. The graphic shows the absolute volume growth in the forecast period for UV filters versus its current market size. OCR and avobenzone (BMBM) which have currently the largest market sizes are projected to have similar or lower expected gorwth in tonnes than ingredients such as homosalate, EHS or the mineral filters (ZnO and TiO2) in orang Neutrogena Zinc dry touch SPF50+/PA++++ is an example of filter containing exclusively a mineral filter (ZnO)
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the WESTERN European sun protection market
Big Opportunities for Emollient Esters and Alcohol 9000 2700 2300 Again in this graphic we can see that besides sunscreens (in blue), specially emollient esters abut also alcohol (in orange) are two ingredients with smaller market size in 2015 that present big opportunities for growth by 2020. Garnier Ambre Solaire is a product that contains emollient esters, while Nivea Sun Protect & Refresh contain high percentage of alcohol in the formualtion. The popularity of spray-ons has risen in the last decade due to convenience during sunbathing or outdoor physical activities 1000 1000
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the the WESTERN European sun protection market
Small Opportunities for Vitamins and Copolymers 9000 2700 2300 Vitamins (in orange) are ingredients with small market size –around 50 Tonnes) that also present relatively small opportunities for growth in term of volume (around 300 Tonnes) when compared to previous examples. Mainly Pantenol and Vitamin E are the vitamins that are projected to be more favoured. NIVEA PROTECT & MOISTURE MOISTURISING SUN LOTION SPF 30 is an exmaple of a product in the market containing -panthenol 1000 1000
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the the WESTERN European sun protection market
Further Opportunities for Additional Ingredients 9000 2700 2300 Last but not least, there are further opportunities for growth for ingredients with lower market volumes such as waxes, ascorbic acid, peptides and silicones in orange and polyakylene glycols, polyacrylates, plant extracts and niacinamide (in blue). Despite the lowest volumes of this ingredients in the market some of them such as peptides, have high value. Examples of products containing this ingredients are: Neutrogena (48) Beeswax – waxes Neutrogena (50) Ascorbyl Palmitate- Ascorbic acid and derivatives Hydro peptide solar defense body spray broad spectrum SPF 40- Resveratrol – peptide Coppertone ultraguard sunscreen 50 (39) – dimethicone Shiseido Uban environmental protection (56) –Triethoxycaprylylsilane - Other silicones 1000 1000
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sunscreen ingredients Global market Consumer demand innovation in sun protection the western European sun protection market Latest innovations and future opportunities this may present. 20
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Latest innovations and future opportunities
Top Areas for Innovation Smart devices /APP Pharma- derived Naturals Free from On the go Anti-pollution Smart devices / APP: Not only formulation is important but proper topical application is crucial. Aware of this, cosmetics companies are launching wearable UV trackers that measures measures UV radiation intensities and warn you if you need to more sunscreen. This breakthrough technology can end up becoming as essential as sunscreen. An example is the L'Oréal's UV Patch which is like a small plaster that change colour when exposed to UV light. How to use it? Taking a quick snap of the patch with your smartphone camera and the accompanying My UV Patch app analyses your UV exposure warning you if you've had too much, based on your skin tone. Pharma-derived: Companies are evaluating different options to grow the business. An sucessful example is the drug major Sun Pharmaceutical Industries “Sun Pharma” which has seleted some variants of its sunscreen brand Suncros to be marketed directly to consumers. It is available in three differentiated variants that provide broad spectrum protection – Suncros Aqualotion with SPF 50 for sensitive skin, Suncros Aquagel with SPF 26 for oily skin (for acne prone skin), and Suncros Soft with SPF 50+ PA+++ in matte finish for all ages that provides 8 hour substantivity. Currently, Sun Pharma’s Global Consumer Healthcare business in India markets dietary supplements, analgesics and antacids. The business division’s entry into dermatology category offers Sun Pharma’s OTC business a larger play into fast moving consumer goods category in India. Sun Pharma entered the Consumer Healthcare / OTC Business as a result of Ranbaxy’s merger into Sun Pharma. It is a high margin, high growth business which the company want to use as a base to create a global consumer entity. All three Suncros products will be available across India, moderately priced between Rs 345 to Rs 545. The market size of sunscreen creams is estimated at around Rs 380 crore and growing at around 25% a year. Nearly two-thirds of it is in OTC segment and with this strategy Sun Pharma wants to expand the sales of its product. The company is aiming for a 30% market share for Suncros in the segment over the next few years. Naturals: The US based company Olen Cosmetics launched a new patent pending sunscreen “Sunblocz”, a Natural Alternative to Chemical Sunscreens which contains antioxidants, non artificial fragrances and free of gluten, phthalates, or parabens. Broad spectrum SPF 50, water resistant. The formula contains the highest percent of Zinc Oxide (non-nano) in a base of natural and anti-oxidant ingredients Free from: Coppertone has launched its New Coppertone Whipped Sunscreen formula available in SPF 30 and 50: free of fragrance, parabens, PABA, dyes and oil. It is a light, creamy texture that absorbs quickly into skin, leaving it soft and smoot On the go: in addition to Once a Day full size bottles Calipso has recently launched a handy single application sachet within its Once a Day range, which is perfect for slipping into a pocket or beach bag when on the go (easy to apply products) Antipollution: Just in time for summer, Happy Skin is launching sun care products specially designed for Filipinos. They don’t want anything sticky or heavy with a white cast. The product doesn’t contain titanium dioxide or zinc. Catch the Sun Brightening UV Gel Cream SPF 40 PA+++ (Php 999) is a water-based gel cream with Moringa Seed Oil that protects against UV rays and doubles as an anti-urban pollution screen.
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Latest innovations and future opportunities
Top Areas for Innovation Multicultural Full protection Segmentation From within Sport & Health Ingredients Multicultural: UNSUN has launched its natural Sun Protection For All Skin Tones products which is a lightweight, mineral-based sunscreen SPF 30. It is tinted to blend in with multiple skin tones and it leaves no white residues on the skin which is a key concern for multicultural consumers (many consumers choose to skip the all natural sunscreens in favor of those that are chemical based because of the typical white film that's left behind). It contains sea butter, vitamin E, coconut oil and fruit extracts. Free of Parabens, Phthalates, PABA Nanoparticles, Propylene Glycol, Oxybenzone, Retinyl Palmitate. The reality is that the sun does not discriminate against ethnicities. Skin cancer are increasing among blacks and Hispanics consumers and their melanomas are more often fatal because they are usually caught later, according to the American Academy of Dermatology. Full protection: Lancaster has launched its Full Light Technology that can be found in Lancaster’s the Sun Beauty line, with products for the face, eyes and body. It protects againsg UVB rays (esponsible for sunburn), UVA rays (accelerate skin aging) and infrared rays. Segmentation: Dr Russo markets a cleansing milk that protects from the sun with a SPF 30. It contains 3 encapsulated chemical UV filters (Octocrylene, Octinoxate and Avobenzone) to minimise absorption into the skin. It is a patent pending QuantaSphereTM encapsulated technology that delivers an SPF 30 for broadband UV protection. tThe active ingredients remain on the skin once the cleanser is washed off, providing a protective layer of a synergistic blend of three of the most advanced UV sunscreen filters. From within: UVO is a ready-to-drink vitamin supplement that protect and repair skin from sun damage. It contains vitamins and antioxidants it doesn’t contains preservatives and it is gluten free. Drink 30 minutes before sun exposure. Problem: The drinkable sunscreen (claiming to have SPF 30 without any UV filter), called the UV Neutralizer, claimed to protects consumers from potentially cancer-causing exposure to the sun. The water was first imprinted with vibrating frequencies that once spritzed into a user’s mouth, the neutralizer created “scalar waves” that negated harmful rays for three hours. The law no says that the company put consumers at considerable risk by claiming that spraying UV Neutralizer into their mouths will provide hours of sun protection, and this product’s only ingredient is water, so this can’t support these highly questionable claims that it can specially treat ordinary water to take on a wide range of health-enhancing properties (not work as advertised). They said that the company failed to provide a reasonable basis for the benefits touted by the products. Sport & Health: Lancaster has just re-launched its sport sunscreen’s range with improved sun protection and a “technologically advanced refreshing formula”. The Sun Sport range now contains Lancaster Laboratories Full Light Technology. The new formula has been created with active women in mind and promises three levels of freshness. The first can be felt on applying the product: a “burst of freshness” reportedly lowers the surface temperature of the skin by an average of 10°C. Freshness is maintained by intelligent polymers releasing a menthol derivative when activated by heat and this “burst of freshness” is also triggered by sweat to keep skin comfortable during exercise. The Sun Sport range can be applied to wet or dry skin and contains a sand and salt deterrent. They used new types of polymers that change depending on exterior conditions, including temperature, sweat and water. These formulas are truly intelligent since they adapt to any conditions. This makes them particularly useful in products designed for application during outdoor activities.” New Ingredients: Covestro is launching a new polymer for transparent sun protection and innovative textures. An ethanol-based polyurethane film former Baycusan® C 2000 (Polyurethane-64). Just a small amount of this raw material added to sunscreen formulations significantly increases the sun protection factor in in vivo tests, showing an SPF-boosting effect. Consumers benefit from its high waterproof property, which is maintained even after repeated dips in the water. The formulations dry quickly, leaving skin feeling fantastic, and what’s more: They can be applied on wet skin. Baycusan® C 2000 can easily be incorporated into different sunscreen textures such as gels, aerosol sprays and oils, and is compatible with common UV protection agents. Manufacturers save time, energy and money compared to other film formers, because they do not have to heat or neutralize the products. With its exceptional sensory properties, Baycusan® makes a tangible difference in sun protection products. Several formulations containing the polyurethane solution have been presented at PCHi in Shanghai.
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Industry Analyst - Ingredients maria.coronadorobles@euromonitor.com
FOR FURTHER INSIGHT PLEASE CONTACT Maria Coronado Robles Industry Analyst - Ingredients That brings us to the end of my presentation. Thank you for your attention. If you have any questions you’d like to ask, please feel free to ask them now and I’ll be happy to answer them. Specific skin care benefits, such as environmental protection, anti-aging, and perhaps more dermatological claims like sun care that also treats eczema, psoriasis, and rosacea, are not only expected to enter the professional skin care space by 2020, but will also permeate the retail sun care industr In the cosmetics market, consumers’ attitude has changed drastically. Nowadays, consumers are more independent in making decisions. Instead of being influenced by advertisement or promotional campaigns, they gather information through different channels and consider various factors before picking the products that most suit their needs. People are increasingly aware of the safety issues of cosmetic products. Sunscreen products are continually being redeveloped to meet the changing needs of specific consumers. La Roche-Posay, the active cosmetics division of the French cosmetics giant L’Oreal, developed Mexoryl SX, also called Ecamsule, which claims that it offers strong, photo-stable protection. The company has sold sunscreens containing this chemical in Europe since In 2006, the FDA allowed La Roche-Posay to produce one specific sunscreen formulation with Mexoryl SX for the U.S. market. Canada admitted Mexoryl SX to its market and recently approved a successor chemical, Mexoryl XL, at concentrations of up to 10 percent (Canada 2013).
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