1. Cosmetics’ Quality Control & Ranking of Brandsby
Dr.Farhad Mohammadi
Pharm D. , Pharmaceutics PhD Candidate
Shiraz University of Medical Sciences & Health Care

2. Skin evaluation methods Products evaluation methods
Introduction
Skin evaluation methods
Products evaluation methods
Ranking of cosmetic brands
© 2012 Chiari et al.; licensee InTech

3. Introduction According to euromonitor international
Global beauty market in
2012 was 80 billion dollars
2013 was 84.4 billion dollars
2014 was 90 billion dollars
despite slight deceleration in the largest emerging markets
Between 2009 and 2019 the ratio of emerging markets contribution shifted from 41% to exceed parity with 51%

4. Introduction
60% related to anti aging & moisturizer productions

5. Introduction Clinicians & consumers more eager to approved products
Today APIs & carriers has more specific effect
More specific test

6. Skin evaluation methods
Corneometer
Measurement of hydration in the stratum corneum
For evaluation of moisturizers & cleaners

7. Skin evaluation methods
The measurement is based on capacitance measurement of a dielectric medium
Change in the dielectric constant due to skin surface hydration

8. Skin evaluation methods
TEWAmeter
Transepidermal water loss(TEWL)
Measurement of the quantity of water that passes through the epidermal layer
Usual use in the integrity & health of skin
For evaluation of moisturizers & cleaners

9. Skin evaluation methods
Measures the density gradient of the water evaporation from the skin indirectly by the two pairs of sensors (temperature and relative humidity) inside the hollow cylinder
A = surface [m2]
m = water transported [g]
t = time [h]
D = diffusion constant [= g/m(h(mmHg))]
p = vapour pressure of the atmosphere [mm Hg]
x = distance from skin surface to point of measurement [m]

10. Skin evaluation methods
Sebumeter
Determine the sebum level of the skin surface, as well as on scalp and hair
The measurement is based on grease spot photometry
For evaluation of anti acne & cleaners

11. Skin evaluation methods
Mexameter
Two components, mainly responsible for the colour of the skin: melanin and hemoglobin(erythema)
The measurement is based on absorption/reflection
Emits 3 specific light wavelengths. A receiver measures the light reflected by the skin
For evaluation of lightening & anti inflamatory

12. Skin evaluation methods
VisioLine
Analyze the deeper lines and macro wrinkles
Oblique lighting at an angle of 35°
The mountains in the replica representing the wrinkles of the skin produce measurable shadows
For formulation and efficacy testing of anti-wrinkle products, especially suitable for the large wrinkles

13. Skin evaluation methods
Frictiometer
Measure the friction values on the skin
A constant rotational speed is applied onto the skin by the friction head. The torque is measured and the result is displayed as Frictiometer units
The measurement is  suitable for comparison measurements, rather than absolute measurements

14. Skin evaluation methods
For evaluation of moisturizers & emollients

15. Skin evaluation methods
pHmeter
Ions movement priciples
For evaluation of shampoo & cleansers

16. Skin evaluation methods
Cutometer
Measurement of skin elasticity
Measure elasticity of the upper skin layer using negative pressure which deforms the skin mechanically
For the evaluation of moisturizers, anti wrinkles, anti ageing & stiffening products

17. Skin evaluation methods
Glossimeter
Measurement of glossiness skin in the disease like greasy skin & acne
For the evaluation of oil-free & anti acne productions

18. Skin evaluation methods
VisioFace
High resolution full face photographs under standardized lighting and in the the same position and analyze the changes
Color & its homogeneity of face skin in every zone
Wrinkles, pores, spots of skin in every zone
For evaluation of lightening, anti inflammatory, anti wrinkles, sun screens & … products

19. Skin evaluation methods
Hair Analyzer
Analyze follicular property and frequent pathological change such as pore obstruction, overactive secretion of sebum & etc.
High resolution sensor lens ensure high quality hair image capture for accurate analysis

20. Skin evaluation methods
Hair Analyzer
For evaluation of thickness, greasiness & morphology of hairs also dandruff & hair growth phase
Anti alopecia, anti dandruff & shampoos

21. Skin evaluation methods
Dermatoscope Dinoite
Microscopic assay of skin surface lesions
consists of a magnifier(typically x10) & a non-polarized light source

22. Skin evaluation methods
Skin Sonography
22 & 50 MHz for make high resolution digital image
For evaluation of skin thickness, collagen content, assay of aging process & lesions
Anti wrinkle & anti oxidant products

23. Products evaluation methods
Quality of a cosmetic product initially defined by the manufacturer that chooses the features that a product should present
In accordance with the standard definitions
maintained during the shelf life of the product
efficient, low cost and rapid methods
Sensory analysis
Rheology
Small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS)

24. Products evaluation methods
Sensory analysis
measure the human feelings
experimental design and statistical analysis
consumer acceptance
evaluate raw materials quality
research and development of a new cosmetic
organoleptic attributes such as color, odor, taste, touch & texture
effect of storage, packaging, maintenance, time & temperature
companies specialized in perform sensory analysis of cosmetic products

25. Products evaluation methods
The volunteers
should not smoke
should be healthy
with ease of memorization & communication
Four different methods to perform the sensorial analysis
Affective
Discriminative
Descriptive
Methods to evaluate the effective of the product

26. Products evaluation methods
Affective method
represent the consumer opinion and evaluate how much consumers like or dislike a product
quantitative
offering two different samples to the volunteer
new products & replace a constituent of a formulation without loss of the product quality

27. Products evaluation methods
Discriminative method
differentiating one between three different samples
shelf life studies and in the quality control of cosmetics
twelve to forty volunteers
Descriptive method
provide a broad sensory description about the product
predict the consumer acceptance

28. Products evaluation methods
Methods to evaluate the effective of the product
use only the product that is being assessed
dermatologists evaluate the volunteers
measurement of one parameter
hydration, sebum & transepidermal water loss

29. Products evaluation methods
Rheology
flow and deformation
characterizing ingredients and products
constructing a rheogram
evaluate if there is a yield stress and a hysteresis area
obtaining information about viscoelasticity
determining the stability of products
apparent viscosity measured periodically in a determined period exposing the samples to stress conditions (high and low temperatures, solar irradiation)
monitor the flow characteristics during the shelf life

30. Products evaluation methods
Small angle X-ray scattering (SAXS)
liquid crystalline structures
fluid like liquids but are organized like solids, being called mesophases
stability of the product
controlled delivery systems
formation of liquid crystals in emulsions could be induced
surfactants
commonly lamellar structures
formed around of the inner phase
making difficult the coalescence, flocculation and the separation of phases
the thicker the interlamellar layers, the higher the viscosity of the cream

31. Products evaluation methods
Being this structures desirable in cosmetic emulsions
could be an indicative of quality of them

32. Products evaluation methods
microscope slide containing a sample
it presents structures that reflect the incident light
it is an evidence of the presence of liquid crystals

33. Products evaluation methods
synchrotron light source that is formed by means of a particle accelerator, and using a monochromatic beam, that is used to irradiate the sample
the scattering of the rays in small angle should be analyzed

34. Ranking of cosmetic brands
According to euromonitor international Forbes
Iran
Shekofa Kish Co. remained the leading company in skin care in 2014
company’s Nivea brand remained popular due to its long history and widespread distribution in Iran
International
2012

35. Ranking of cosmetic brands
International 2013
10.Shiseido (Japan)
9.Biore (France)

36. Ranking of cosmetic brands
8.Estee Lauder (U.S.A) 7.Dove (Britain)

37. Ranking of cosmetic brands
6.Lincome (France) 5.Nivea (Germany)

38. Ranking of cosmetic brands
4.Neutrogena (U.S.A) 3.Loreal (France)

39. Ranking of cosmetic brands
2.Avon (U.S.A) 1. Olay (U.S.A)

40. Thanks