MISCELLANEOUS INVADERS

MISCELLANEOUS INVADERS
Gary Alpert, Harvard University, Bugwood.org

Bed Bugs - Biology & Control
MILLIPEDES Invade buildings, especially during hot and dry weather Do not bite, sting or transmit disease Can give off an unpleasant odor Millipedes are common occasional pests that sometimes invade buildings, particularly when the weather turns hot and dry. While millipedes sometimes enter in large numbers, they do not bite, sting, or transmit diseases, nor do they infest food, clothing or dry, structurally sound wood. When disturbed, millipedes often curl up into a "C" shape and remain motionless. They crawl slowly and protect themselves by secreting cyanide-like compound that has an unpleasant odor. Gary Alpert, Harvard University, Bugwood.org

MILLIPEDES Most common species that invades buildings is the “garden millipede” Brownish-black in color and about 1” in length Millipedes have two pair of legs per body segment David Cappaert, Michigan State University, Bugwood.org Millipedes vary in both color and size. The most common species that invades buildings is the" garden millipede", which is brownish-black in color and about one inch long. Although millipedes are often called "thousandleggers", they actually have far fewer legs, but each body segment has two pairs of very short legs. Some people confuse millipedes with centipedes, which look somewhat similar. However, centipedes have only one pair of legs per body segment and the legs are usually longer than those on millipedes. Centipedes also tend to move about more quickly than millipedes. Gary Alpert, Harvard University, Bugwood.org

MILLIPEDES Feed on damp and decaying organic matter Found in dark, cool and moist habitats May invade structures when it is too hot & dry or too wet Millipedes are attracted to dark, cool and moist habitats rich in organic matter such as compost piles, rotting logs, leaf litter, soil under logs and stones, etc. They usually go unnoticed in their natural habitats. Millipedes can become a major problem when conditions become too hot and dry and the millipedes move to find moisture, or else when it's too wet and water-saturated soils force them to the surface and higher ground where they often end up on concrete slabs, foundations and siding. Millipedes may also migrate in the fall, presumably in search of overwintering sites. All of these activities result in millipedes invading crawl spaces, basements and other areas of buildings. Common points of entry include door thresholds (especially at the base of sliding glass doors, garage doors), expansion joints, and through the voids of concrete block walls. Millipedes do not survive indoors for more than a few days (more likely just a few hours) unless they can find suitable moist conditions.

MILLIPEDES CONTROL Reduce or eliminate harborage areas Inorganic mulch “strips” around the structure allow better drainage Prevent water from accumulating around foundation, in basements, crawl spaces, etc. Reduce or eliminate harborage areas: piles of rocks, logs, boards, leaf litter, grass clippings, compost piles, heavy accumulations of mulch, etc., especially near the foundation. This does not mean mulch cannot be used around the foundation; simply keep it 6-12" away from the wall. An inorganic mulch, such as gravel, will allow better drainage. Keep gutters and down spouts free of debris and use either splash guards or perforated pipe to reduce pooling. Homes with poor drainage may need to have foundation drains installed, or the surrounding ground contoured or sloped to redirect surface water away from the foundation. Repair leaking exterior water spigots and prevent water from accumulating where there are drip lines from air conditioning units. Reduce the humidity in crawl spaces and basements by providing adequate ventilation, sump pumps, polyethylene soil covers, dehumidifiers, etc.

MILLIPEDES CONTROL Exclusion Seal cracks & openings Install door sweeps Seal expansion joints Seal cracks and openings in the outside foundation wall, and around the sills of doors and basement windows. Install door sweeps on exterior entry doors. Seal expansion joints where outdoor patios, sunrooms and sidewalks abut the foundation. Expansion joints and gaps should also be sealed along the bottom of basement walls on the interior to reduce entry of pests and moisture from outdoors.

MILLIPEDES CONTROL Chemical control is not necessary indoors Outdoors, perimeter sprays may help Spray volume is important and the chemical must penetrate the soil Application of insecticides along baseboards and other interior living areas of the home do not really stop millipede invasions. Once indoors, millipedes end up in kitchens, living rooms, etc. and soon die from a lack of moisture. Remove them with a vacuum cleaner or broom. Outdoors, perimeter sprays (shown at right) may help but are rarely 100% effective in stopping the millipedes. The key to successful chemical control is spray volume, i.e., that amount of diluted chemical that is applied over an area. The spray must penetrate the soil, not simply lightly coat the surface. The best means of application for homeowners is a garden hose attachment. For best results, treat a 2-5 foot wide area of ground along the foundation in mulched, ornamental plant beds and grassy areas, as well as an inch wide vertical band of the foundation wall. Spraying mulch is ineffective because the chemical can bind to the mulch and not penetrate to the soil. Heavy accumulations of mulch and leaf litter should be raked back from the foundation first to expose millipede hiding areas and allow the pesticide to penetrate the soil more readily.

MILLIPEDES CONTROL Not a good idea to use dust outdoors where children/pets may contact it

MILLIPEDES CONTROL Don’t spray children’s toys or pet items
Watch for drift

BOOKLICE (PSOCIDS) Tiny (1/25” to 1/13” long), soft-bodied insects Outdoor species referred to as barklice – adults usually winged Species that invade homes usually wingless Sometimes called psocids or paperlice Most booklice are found outdoors on or under the bark of trees and shrubs. Outdoor species are commonly referred to as barklice and are usually winged as adults. Species that frequently inhabit homes and other structures are wingless as adults, have extremely flattened bodies and are translucent white to gray in color. Booklice may also be referred to as psocids or "paper lice". However, they are not true lice and do not bite or transmit disease. Photo: Jim Kalisch, University of Nebraska-Lincoln Entomology

BOOKLICE (PSOCIDS) Feed on microscopic fungi and mold Found in damp, dark places: Basements Crawl spaces Leaky plumbing Over-watered houseplants Booklice feed primarily on microscopic fungi and mold. Therefore, they are most often found in damp, dark areas. Such places may include basements, crawlspaces, leaky plumbing, and around over-watered houseplants. They may also show up in recently built homes where they entered during construction and were enclosed in a wall after siding and sheetrock were installed.

BOOKLICE (PSOCIDS) Found around old books and papers stored in unconditioned or damp areas Food goods stored in humid conditions Booklice are often associated with old books or other papers that are stored in damp conditions. These conditions promote the growth of mold or fungi on the pastes and glues of book bindings. They may also be found in food goods stored in humid conditions that support mold development. While their presence can cause great annoyance, they rarely cause significant damage to items.

BOOKLICE (PSOCIDS) CONTROL Reduce moisture Maintain relative humidity below 50% Seal up cracks & crevices Remove or dispose of items harboring mold & fungi Pesticides rarely needed Reducing moisture and maintaining relative humidity below 50% will provide excellent control of booklice. Use a fan or dehumidifier to dry out damp rooms or other locations. Repair any leaky plumbing. Try to determine and remedy the cause of any condensation around doors, windows, air conditioning units, or other areas. Eliminate any standing water. Do not over-water houseplants. Reduce or eliminate potential harborage areas by sealing up cracks and crevices. Remove or dispose of items that could be harboring mold and fungi, such as old books, cardboard, papers, wallpaper, and food goods stored in damp conditions. Those items that cannot be removed or disposed of should be stored in airtight plastic bags or containers in cool, dry, and well ventilated areas. Pesticides may not be needed to control booklice, especially if the recommendations listed above are followed. However, residual spray or dust insecticides may be applied as spot treatments or in the cracks and crevices of known or suspected harborage sites.

SPRINGTAILS Small (1/16” – 1/8” long), wingless insects Use furcula to catapult themselves through the air Springtails are typically 1/16 to 1/8 inch long and wingless. They get their name from the ability to catapult themselves through the air by means of a forked tail-like structured called a furcula (see image at right), which is attached on the underside of the abdomen. The ability to "leap" in the air often leads people to assume that these are small fleas.

SPRINGTAILS Soil-inhabiting insects During long periods of dry weather, springtails move and congregate around sources of moisture They live primarily in the soil, in leaf mold, organic mulches, under tree bark, in decaying logs, and may even infest potted plants. They are most abundant in damp or moist areas. As the soil/mulch dry out during prolonged periods of dry weather, springtails will move and may be found congregating near any source of moisture, such as air conditioner condensate lines, lawn sprinkler heads, etc.

SPRINGTAILS They will be seen in large numbers that give a soot-like appearance on walls, floors, driveways, etc. The picture shown is a floating mass of springtails. Eventually, the springtails make their way indoors. The most common areas where they're being found are your obvious sources of moisture, such as around exterior doors and windows, in sinks, bathtubs and around commodes. In many cases, springtails may be so numerous around sinks and tubs that people assume that the insects are coming out of the drains. Springtails may also enter the living areas of a home from the crawlspace. Photo:

SPRINGTAILS CONTROL Reduce or eliminate harborage areas
Inorganic mulch “strips” around the structure allow better drainage Prevent water from accumulating around foundation, in basements, crawl spaces, etc.

SPRINGTAILS CONTROL Exclusion Seal cracks & openings
Install door sweeps Seal expansion joints

SPRINGTAILS CHEMICAL CONTROL Outside, using a garden house sprayer, treat a 3-5 feet wide area around the house plus 2 feet up the foundation Outside, use a garden house sprayer to treat a 3-5 feet wide around the house (or more if preferred), plus about 2 feet of the lower foundation walls as well. If there is a thick layer of mulch around the house, it must be raked back at least 3-feet so the underlying soil can be treated. Applying 1/4" or so of water to the area before applying any chemicals may help attract the insects to the soil surface and subsequent treatment may be more effective. As with controlling millipedes outdoors, watch for children’s toys and pets/pet’s items before treating and watch for drift. Indoors, a "crack & crevice" application which is done with a product that has a straw-like injector nozzle similar to a can of WD-40 may provide temporary relief.

DRAIN FLIES Adults are small (1/6” to 1/5” long), fuzzy, dark colored Wings densely covered with hairs Drain flies also known as moth flies or filter flies Drain flies (also known as "moth flies" or "filter flies") are a common nuisance in/around homes and commercial buildings, including sewage treatment plants. Adult drain flies are small (1/6 to 1/5 inch long), fuzzy, dark colored insects with the body and wings densely covered with hairs. Their wings appear large for their body, are held roof-like over the body when at rest, giving them a moth-like appearance. They are weak fliers and fly only a few feet at a time. Larvae are legless, about 3/8 inch long, wormlike and gray, with both ends somewhat darker.

DRAIN FLIES Larvae feed in the slimy, gelatinous film that builds up in drains and pipes Drain flies breed in polluted, shallow water or highly moist organic solids. The larvae feed in the slimy, gelatinous film that often accumulates on the sides of drains and condensate pipes for air conditioners, in sewage filtration tanks, septic tanks and moist compost. Other breeding sites include dirty garbage containers, rain barrels and tree holes or in low-lying areas adjacent to buildings where stormwater collects and algae or mold grows.

DRAIN FLIES NON-CHEMICAL CONTROL Find & eliminate the source Outdoors: where air conditioning condensate lines drain damaged or faulty septic lines where rainwater tends to pool The key to solving a drain fly problem is to find and eliminate the source, i.e., find the areas of excess moisture and a buildup of organic debris. Examples would be places where air conditioning condensate lines drain (as shown in this picture). Drain flies can become problems when septic system backs up and a biofilm grows on the filter. Can be a problem at sewage plants as well on rock filters. For commercial buildings - check the area (usually a concrete or gravel covered) beneath air condition cooling units on roofs or adjoining the building.

DRAIN FLIES NON-CHEMICAL CONTROL Find & eliminate the source Indoors: toilets sink and bathtub/shower drains floor drains condensate lines for icemakers Toilets, particularly if they are not used frequently, (be sure to check the toilet tank), Sink and bathtub/shower drains, Floor drains in commercial buildings and basements, Condensate lines for icemakers. One way to determine if the flies are coming from a particular drain is to cover the drains a translucent container (e.g., a margarine container) and coat the inside with a thin layer of petroleum jelly. Place the container upside down over the drain and leave it in place overnight or for a few days, but check it daily. Emerging flies should be trapped in the petroleum jelly. In commercial buildings, the source of the problem may be more difficult to identify.

DRAIN FLIES

DRAIN FLIES CONTROL Clean toilets, drain pipes, traps, etc. to remove any gelatinous, organic matter The most effective method to correct (or to prevent) drain fly problems is to clean toilets, drainpipes and traps to eliminate any gelatinous rotting, organic matter, thereby eliminating the larval food source. Many of the commercially-available drain and toilet bowl cleaners can be used for this purpose. Make sure that the product is compatible with the system (i.e., will not disrupt the microbial action in the septic tank). Routine cleaning of floor and sink drains is important particularly in commercial establishments. Alternative methods include cleaning pipes and traps with a good, stiff, long-handled brush. It is best to remove the drain trap and use a plumber's "snake" in clogged drains to dislodge the gelatinous material in the drains. If you use mechanical cleaning methods, you should also flush the lines with boiling water and bleach to remove any material left behind. Caustic drain cleaners may also be used, although they are not necessarily as effective as other cleaning methods. IMPORTANT: NEVER rinse a drain with bleach after using a caustic drain cleaner. Mixing of these two chemicals in the drain line may produce chlorine gas, which is extremely hazardous to anyone who inhales it.

FUNGUS GNATS Adults 1/10” to 1/8” long, dark-colored antennae & long legs Look somewhat like mosquitoes Feed on fungi and decaying plant material Adult fungus gnats are about 1/10 to 1/8 inch long, slender, somewhat mosquito-like, with dark-colored antennae and delicate with long legs. Some species are gray to black in color, while others are orange-to-yellowish in color. Fungus gnats develop in moist, shaded areas in decaying organic matter. Fungus gnats develop in moist, shaded areas in decaying organic matter such as leaf litter. With indoor infestations there will typically be continuous reproduction and overlapping generations with all life stages likely to be found throughout the year. Adults fungus gnats live about 7 to 10 days.

FUNGUS GNATS NON-CHEMICAL CONTROL Find & eliminate the source Outdoors: landscaped and/or heavily mulched areas low-lying areas that remain extremely wet following heavy rainfall leaking outdoor water spigot The key to solving indoor fungus gnat problems is to find and eliminate the source, i.e., find the area(s) of excess moisture. Outdoors - If the problem is seasonal, i.e., it declines or totally disappears in the fall/winter then, it is quite likely (but not always) the case that the source is outdoors. The most likely problem spots are landscaped and/or heavily mulched areas or low-lying areas in the yard that remain extremely wet following heavy rainfall or a leaking outdoor water spigot.

FUNGUS GNATS NON-CHEMICAL CONTROL Find & eliminate the source Indoors:
overwatered plants areas where moisture commonly found crawl space The most common source for fungus gnats indoors is overwatered plants, both in residential and commercial settings.

FUNGUS GNATS Fungus gnats were found on the aquarium filter in this situation.

FRUIT FLIES Adults 1/8” long, usually have red eyes
Front portion of the body tan and the rear portion black. Photo: Alex Wild,

FRUIT FLIES Feed on fermenting material:
over-ripened fruits & vegetables garbage disposals drains recycled cans/bottles mop heads/cleaning rags Fruit flies are common in homes, restaurants, supermarkets and wherever else food is allowed to rot and ferment. Fruit flies are especially attracted to ripened fruits and vegetables. But they also will breed in drains, garbage disposals, empty bottles and cans, trash containers, mops and cleaning rags. Fruit flies lay their eggs near the surface of fermenting foods or other moist, organic materials. Upon emerging, the tiny larvae continue to feed near the surface of the fermenting mass. This surface-feeding characteristic of the larvae is significant in that damaged or over-ripened portions of fruits and vegetables can be cut away without having to discard the remainder for fear of retaining any developing larvae.

FRUIT FLIES CONTROL Find and eliminate the source

MISCELLANEOUS INVADERS

Similar presentations

Presentation on theme: "MISCELLANEOUS INVADERS"— Presentation transcript:

Similar presentations

About project

Feedback

Log in

Auth with social network:

MISCELLANEOUS INVADERS

Similar presentations

Presentation on theme: "MISCELLANEOUS INVADERS"— Presentation transcript:

Similar presentations

About project

Feedback