1. 2.01 Understanding The Technical Design Process
A. Fabric Selection
1. Fabric Construction

2. Turning Yarn into Fabric
Weaving: The process of interlacing one or more sets of yarns at right angles on a loom.
Warp yarns: Yarns that run lengthwise in woven fabric.
(“p” = up and down)
Weft yarns: Yarns that run crosswise in woven fabric.
(“weft” sounds like left & right)
Show example of selvage edge in relation to ward and weft

3. Turning Yarn into Fabric (cont.)
Grain: The direction of the lengthwise and crosswise yarns in a woven fabric.
Bias: The diagonal grain of a fabric. The bias provides the greatest stretch in the fabric.
Use example to show grain and bias.

4. Weaving
Plain weave: The simplest weave in which the weft (crosswise) yarn is passed over then under each warp (lengthwise) yarn.
A basket weave is one variation, with the weft yarn passing over two and under two warp yarns each pass.
Plain weave
Use magnifying glass to examine examples of weaves.
Examples: chiffon
gingham seersucker taffeta

5. Weaving
Twill weave: A very strong weave in which the weft yarn is passed over and under one, two, or three warp yarns
Used for durability, this weave produces a diagonal design on the surface.
Twill weave
Examples: denim, chino
gabardine

6. Weaving
Satin weave: A very weak weave that produces a smooth, shiny-surfaced fabric resulting from passing the weft yarn over and under numerous warp yarns to create long floats.
Satin weave
Examples: sateen
satin

7. Weaving In textiles, pile is the raised
surface or nap of a fabric, which
is made of upright loops or
strands of yarn.

8. Weaving
A pile weave is made on a loom, like most types of weaves are made. The difference is that loops are created.
These loops can either be left uncut, like in towels, or can be cut to uniform lengths, like in velvet fabric.
Types of fabrics created using a pile weave include Velvet, Corduroy, Terrycloth, and Velveteen

9. Weaving Assignment
Using construction paper cut into strips about 1 inches x 11 inches you should recreate:
plain weave
twill weave
satin weave
On the back of each weave:
list the advantages
list disadvantages
3 examples of weave
Describe weaving assignment.

10. Turning Yarn into Fabric
Knitting: the process of pulling loops of yarns through other loops to create interlocking rows of stitches
Wales – yarns that run in the lengthwise direction , like a warp yarns in woven fabrics
Courses – yarns that run in the crosswise direction, like the weft yarns in woven fabrics

11. Knitting Weft Knit: a knit made with only one yarn
Types of weft knits include:
Jersey knits – most common type, curls at edges, used for t-shirts, sweaters and tights/hosiery
Rib knits – have vertical “ribs” (columns of stitches), used for neck, wrist and bottom bands of sweatshirts & jackets
Double knits – two yarns and two needles are used resulting in heavier, sturdier knits that don’t run or ravel
Characteristics include:
Two-way stretch in both lengthwise & crosswise directions
Can get lengthwise “runs” from broken threads
Made on either flat or circular knitting machines

12. Knitting
Jersey Knits

13. Knitting
Rib Knits

14. Knitting
Double Knits

15. Knitting
Warp knit: a knit made with several yarns on flat knitting machines. Multiple yarns are looped together to produce a run-resistant knitted fabric.
Tricot knits – stable knits that lie flat and don’t run or ravel, made on very fast tricot knitting machines, used for lingerie, underwear and uniforms
Raschel knits – an extra yarn is used to create a patterned design in these knits, used for lacy knits, thermal underwear and bathing suits

16. Knitting
Tricot knits

17. Knitting
Raschel knits

18. Knitting Seamless knitting involves the production
of a whole garment in
one piece on a knitting
machine so that little
or no sewing is required.

19. Nonwoven Fabrics Made from fibers, not yarns
Fibers are held together by a combination of moisture, heat, chemicals and/or pressure.
No grain line
Limited stretch
Inexpensive
Often disposal

20. Nonwoven Fabrics Uses include: Interfacings Batting for quilts Felt
Disposable products
Medical products