1. Gaining a Competitive Edge
With Performance Testing

2. Testing isn’t Cheap
But the RIGHT Testing is
a Good Investment

3. Start at the Beginning
Before addressing performance features, make sure your fabrics and products meet mandatory standards and customer expectations for quality.

4. Health & Safety Flammability Restricted substances
Special children’s issues

5. Flammability
16 CFR 1610: Standard for the Flammability of Clothing Textiles
ASTM D : Standard Test Method for Flammability of Apparel Textiles
CPAI-75: A Rate of Burn Standard for Sleeping Bags
ASTM F (2005): Standard Test Method for Flammability of Sleeping Bags
CPAI-84: A Specification for Flame-resistant Materials Used in Camping Tentage
16 CFR 1615/1616: Standard for the Flammability of Children's Sleepwear
ASTM D : Standard Test Method for Flammability of Textiles Used in Children's Sleepwear
Other national, state, and local regulations
Industry standards
CPAI = Canvas Products Association International (Industrial Fabrics Association International)
Applicable flammability regulations usually depend on end product

6. Note: Test method lists in this presentation are NOT comprehensive.
For every AATCC method listed, there are similar, identical—or totally different—ISO, JIS, BS, etc. methods for measuring the same property.

7. Restricted Substances
CPSIA
Lead (children’s product ≤ 300 ppm; paint ≤ 90 ppm)
Phthalates (toys and child-care items)
Cal Prop 65: Safe Drinking Water and Toxic Enforcement Act of 1986
American Apparel & Footwear Association RSL
Öko-Tex Standard 100 …
Other government and industry RSLs
formaldehyde, azo dyes, lead, BPA, etc.
Legal requirements vary by country/state and product type. Further limits may be imposed by customers or certifying bodies.
CPSIA 100 ppm lead limit to take effect in 2011 “if technically feasible”

8. Children’s Safety Tougher flammability and toxicity requirements
ASTM F963-07ε1: Standard Consumer Safety Specification on Toy Safety
Use and abuse
Small parts (16 CFR and 1501)
Sharp points (16 CFR )
Sharp edges (16 CFR )
Non-textile standards and regulations
CPSIA makes ASTM F963 mandatory

9. EXCLUSIVE OF ORNAMENTATION
Labeling
50% Cotton
50% Polyester
Hand or machine
Wash in cold water
No bleach
Tumble dry low
Made in U.S.A. M
Care instructions
Fiber content
Safety
Identification
SHELL: 100% POLYESTER
INSERT: 100% NYLON
LINING: 100% NYLON
DOWN: 85% DOWN 15% FEATHER
EXCLUSIVE OF ORNAMENTATION
RN92740
16 CFR 423: Care Labeling of Textile Wearing Apparel and Certain Piece Goods as Amended
“reliable evidence” for all instructions, including warnings
16 CFR 303: Rules and Regulations under the Textile Fiber Products Identification Act
Consumer information
Customs duties/tariffs
Quotas

10. Basic Quality Control Dimensional Stability Colorfastness Strength
Durability

11. Make Claims that Make Sense
Know which features are important
in your product category
at your price point
to your customers
Know how to measure performance
Know how you compare with competitors
Support Your Claims with Testing

12. Moisture Management Water resistance Absorbency Drying time
Moisture transport
Water/rain resistance/repellency: for outerwear, tents, sleeping bags, other items exposed to the elements
Absorbency: for towels, items specifically intend to soak up water
Vapor transport: what most mean by “moisture management;” movement of perspiration from skin to outside of garment for evaporation; multi-part process

13. Water Resistance AATCC TM22: Water Repellency-Spray Test
Water is sprayed against the taut surface of a test specimen under controlled conditions. The specimen is evaluated by comparing the wetted pattern with pictures on a standard chart. This method is especially suitable for measuring the water-repellent efficacy of finishes applied to fabrics
AATCC TM35: Water Resistance: Rain Test
A test specimen, backed by a weighed blotter, is sprayed with water for five minutes under controlled conditions. The blotter is reweighed to determine the amount of water passing through the specimen. Tests at different intensities give a complete picture of the penetration resistance of a single fabric or combination of fabrics.
AATCC TM42: Water Resistance: Impact Penetration Test
Measures the resistance of fabrics to the penetration of water by impact, and thus can be used to predict the probable resistance of fabrics to rain penetration resistance of garment fabric.
AATCC TM70: Water Repellency-Tumble Jar Dynamic Absorption Test
Subjects specimens to dynamic conditions similar to those encountered during actual use. Not intended for determining probable rain penetration resistance of fabrics, since it measures absorption of water into, but not through, the fabric. Results depend primarily on the resistance to wetting or water repellency of the fibers and yarns in the fabric, and not upon the construction of the fabric.
AATCC TM127: Water Resistance: Hydrostatic Pressure Test
Measures the resistance of a fabric to the penetration of water under hydrostatic pressure.
Keeping water out
Hydrostatic, impact, and rain test results depend on fiber, yarn, and fabric construction.

14. Water Resistance Dynamic Absorption Rain Test Spray Test
Impact Penetration
Hydrostatic Pressure

15. Absorbency AATCC TM 79: Absorbency of Textiles
AATCC/ASTM Moisture Management Technical Supplement
(MM TS) procedures (are not standard test methods. They have not been reviewed, balloted, or approved by the processes stated in the Rules of Procedure for AATCC Test Method and Technology Committees or ASTM International. Some of the techniques may be considered for development as new standards or incorporated into existing standards in the future.
AATCC TM 79: Absorbency of Textiles
The completeness and uniformity of textile processing as well as the suitability of a fabric for a particular use is dependent upon its ability and propensity to take up water. The test is based on the amount of time it takes for a drop of water to disappear from the surface of a specimen (by being absorbed into the material).
MM TS-01: Quick Water Absorbency
Designed to measure the water absorbency of textiles by measuring the time it takes for a drop of water placed on the fabric surface to be completely absorbed into the fabric. May be used to indicate comfort during wear, but most useful in measuring the affects of moisture control treatments used on textiles.
MM TS-04: Absorbent Capacity – Absorbency Testing System (ATS)
Measures water absorbency, rate, and direction with an infrared sensor to determine the maximum absorbent capacity of a fabric.
Getting water in

16. Drying Time MM TS-05: Gravimetric Drying Test MM TS-07: Drying Time
Determines the time for a fabric to dry when wet with a specified amount of water. Indicates drying time during wear or hang drying, but results may not be applicable in different temperatures and humidities.
MM TS-07: Drying Time
Determines drying time by wetting fabric and recording weight at set intervals until dry.
MM TS-08: Drying Time of Wet
Textile Fabrics
A test specimen saturated in distilled water is placed
inside a controlled atmosphere. Periodic weighings
determine the rate of water loss. Garment construction
is not considered.
Getting water out

17. Moisture Transport
AATCC TM 195: Liquid Moisture Management Properties of
Textile Fabrics
The test method produces objective measurements of liquid moisture management properties of knitted, woven and nonwoven textile fabrics. Results are based on water resistance, water repellency, and water absorption characteristics of the fabric structure, including the fabric’s geometric and internal structure and the wicking characteristics of its fibers and yarns.
MM TS-03: Horizontal Wicking
Determines the horizontal spread or area of wicking of 0.5 mL of
deionized water.
MM TS-06: Vertical Wicking
Measures the time for water to wick up six inches from a cut edge or the
distance wicked vertically in one hour.
Moving water

18. Breathability
Air permeability
Vapor transport

19. UV Resistance UPF Colorfastness to light Weather resistance
Colorfastness: Aesthetics. Will tent be as bright after exposure?
Strength retention: more important than aesthetics. Will tent tear after exposure?

20. Effective UV Transmission
UPF
ASTM D6544 (preparation)
AATCC TM183 (testing)
ASTM D6603 (labeling)
UPF Range
Protection Category
Effective UV Transmission
UPF Rating
15-24
Good
6.7% - 4.2%
15, 20
25-39
Very Good
4.1% - 2.6%
25, 30, 35
40-50, 50+
Excellent
≤2.5%
40, 45, 50, 50+
Apparel and sun shades (umbrellas/awnings).
Must provide coverage to be effective.
Consider use conditions (dry/wet/stretched/etc)

21. Weather Resistance AATCC TM 16: Colorfastness to Light
Accelerated exposure for color change evaluation only.
AATCC TM 111: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Exposure
to Daylight and Weather
Test specimens and standard are exposed simultaneously to natural weathering. End point is a specified degree of degradation (color change, strength loss, etc.) or a specific amount of radiant energy. Exposures by calendar days, months, or years can result in more variation.
AATCC TM 169: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Xenon Lamp Exposure
Sample and standard are exposed to a xenon lamp source. Strength and/or color is compared.
AATCC TM186: Weather Resistance: UV Light and Moisture Exposure
Specimens are exposed to a fluorescent UV light source and periodic wetting. Resistance to degradation is rated in percent loss in strength, or percent residual strength (breaking or bursting) and/or color change.
AATCC TM 192: Weather Resistance of Textiles: Sunshine-Arc Lamp Exposure with and without Wetting
Test specimens and standard are exposed under specified conditions of relative humidity or wetting. Weather resistance is evaluated by comparison to unexposed original material.
The relationship between any lightfastness test and the actual exposure in use must be determined and agreed upon by the contractual parties.

22. Stain Resistance
Soil prevention
Soil removal
Oily
Protein
Mineral

23. Stain Resistance
AATCC TM118: Oil Repellency: Hydrocarbon Resistance Test
Evaluates resistance to wetting by a selected series of liquid hydrocarbons of different surface tensions. Drops are placed on the fabric surface and observed for wetting, wicking, and contact angle. The oil repellency grade is the highest numbered test liquid which does not wet the fabric surface.
AATCC TM130: Soil Release: Oily Stain Release Method
Measures ability of fabrics to release oily stains during home laundering. Primarily to evaluate the likely performance of soil release finishes in actual use.
AATCC TM193: Aqueous Liquid Repellency: Water/Alcohol Solution Resistance Test
Determines the efficacy of a protective finish for imparting a low energy surface on all types of fabrics by evaluating resistance to wetting by a series of water/alcohol solutions of different surface tensions. Drops are placed on the fabric surface and observed for wetting, wicking, and contact angle.

24. Durability Appearance retention Strength retention Abradant
Abrasion direction
Also, puncture resistance

25. Durability (abrasion resistance)
ASTM D3884: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Rotary Platform, Double-Head Method)
Abradant wheels trace a circular pattern on the fabric specimen.
ASTM D3886: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Inflated Diaphragm Apparatus)
Determines the resistance to abrasion of woven and knitted textile fabrics, both conditioned and wet, using the inflated diaphragm tester. Result is the number of cycles until the abrasive panel breaks through the fabric.
ASTM D4157: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Oscillatory Cylinder Method)
Abrasion resistance of woven textile fabrics using the oscillatory cylinder tester. Common method for evaluating for upholstery.

26. Durability
ASTM D4158: Guide for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Uniform Abrasion)
Every point in the surface of the specimen is equally and uniformly abraded in all horizontal directions. Evaluation options are fabric rupture, mass loss, thickness loss, and breaking strength loss.
ASTM D4966: Test Method for Abrasion Resistance of Textile Fabrics (Martindale Abrasion Tester Method)
The Martindale abrasion tester moves specimens in a Lissajous pattern against an abradant wool fabric. May not be suitable for fabrics with a pile depth greater than 2 mm.
AATCC TM93: Abrasion Resistance of Fabrics: Accelerotor Method
Specimen is driven along a zigzag course in a generally circular orbit within a cylindrical chamber, impinging on walls and abradant liner while being subjected to rapid, high velocity impacts. Evaluation is made on the basis of weight loss or grab strength loss of the specimen when broken at an abraded fold line.

27. Thermal Regulation
ASTM F1868 : Standard Test Method for Thermal and Evaporative Resistance of Clothing Materials Using a Sweating Hot Plate
Thermal resistance and the evaporative resistance, under steady-state conditions, of fabrics, films, coatings, foams, and leathers, including multi-layer assemblies, for use in clothing systems.
ASTM D1518: Test Method for Thermal Transmittance of Textile Materials
Measures the time rate of heat transfer from a warm, dry, constant-temperature, horizontal flat- plate up through a layer of the test material to a relatively calm, cool atmosphere.
ASTM F1291: Test Method for Measuring the Thermal Insulation of Clothing Using a Heated Manikin
Insulation value of clothing ensembles. The method describes the measurement of the resistance to dry heat transfer from a heated manikin to a relatively calm, cool environment. This is a static test that provides a baseline clothing measurement on a standing manikin. The effects of body position and movement are not addressed.
ISO 11092: Textiles-Physiological Effects-Measurement of Thermal and Water-Vapour Resistance Under Steady-State Conditions (Sweating Guarded-Hotplate Test)
ISO 9920 Ergonomics of the Thermal Environment--Estimation of the Thermal Insulation and Evaporation Resistance of a Clothing Ensemble

28. Thermal Regulation
ASTM F2370: Test Method for Measuring the Evaporative Resistance of Clothing Using a Sweating Manikin
Determination of the evaporative resistance of clothing ensembles. This static test measures the resistance to evaporative heat transfer from a heated sweating thermal manikin to a relatively calm environment.
ASTM F1720: Standard Test Method for Measuring Thermal Insulation of Sleeping Bags Using a Heated Manikin
This test method covers determination of the insulation value of a sleeping bag or sleeping bag system. It measures the resistance to dry heat transfer from a constant skin temperature manikin to a relatively cold environment. This is a static test that generates reproducible results, but the manikin cannot simulate real life sleeping conditions relating to some human and environmental factors

29. Antimicrobial Activity
Odor control
Rot resistance
Qualitative
Quantitative
Resistance to odor-causing bacteria: focus is on perspirations; important for next-to-skin applications, athletic wear
Rot resistance: For products with prolonged exposure to the environment. Hammocks, cloth chairs, umbrellas, awnings
See AATCC Review article for specifics about antimicrobial testing

30. Antimicrobial Activity
AATCC TM30: Antifungal Activity, Assessment on Textile Materials: Mildew and Rot Resistance of Textiles
The dual-purpose test method determines the susceptibility of textile materials to mildew and rot AND evaluates the efficacy of fungicides on textile materials.
AATCC TM100: Antibacterial Finishes on Textile Materials: Assessment of
One of the most commonly used and well-recognized tests for antimicrobial-treated textiles, this method provides quantitative evaluation of the degree of antibacterial activity. Bacteria on treated and untreated specimens are counted after innoculation and incubation. Percent reduction by the treated specimen is calculated.
AATCC TM147: Antibacterial Activity of Fabrics, Assessment of Textile Materials: Parallel Streak Method
This test detects bacteriostatic activity on textile materials. The Parallel Streak Method provides quick and easy qualitative determination of antibacterial activity of diffusable antimicrobial agents on treated textile materials. This method provides evidence of antibacterial activity against both Gram positive and Gram negative bacteria.

31. For more on choosing the right antimicrobial test:
“Testing Antimicrobial
Performance”
(AATCC Review,
Sept/Oct 2010)

32. Thanks!
Diana Wyman
AATCC