1. Textile Fabrics and Finishes

2. Fabric Design and Construction
Two forms of design
Structural Design
“Building in” texture or interest during manufacturing process
Weaving and knitting most common
Applied Design
Adding color, pattern, or other features to the structural design
Printing on fabric

3. Fabric Construction Methods
Weaving
Plain: crosshatch pattern
Twill: diagonal wale
Satin: floating yarns
Knitting
Weft
Warp
Nonwoven
Fused
Felted
Films

4. Fabric Terms Grain – direction yarns run in the fabric Selvage SELVAGE
Lengthwise - warp
Crosswise - weft
Diagonal - bias
Selvage
“Finished” weft edge of fabric
SELVAGE
WARP
WEFT
BIAS
SELVAGE
CUT EDGE

5. Variations of Weaves Stripes Checks Plaids Jacquard Pile fabrics
Terry cloth
Corduroy
Velvet

6. Knitting Looping yarn together Made using one yarn
Built-in stretch
Wrinkle resistant
Does not ravel like woven material, but may run
Weft (filling) stretches in both directions
Warp stretches one direction; run-proof

7. Nonwoven Fabrics Compact web of fibers (not yarns) constructed using
Moisture
Heat
Chemicals
Friction
Pressure
No grain

8. Other Construction Methods
Laces and Nets
Made by knotting
Decorative trim
Braids
Decorative trims
Bonded fabrics
Fusible web
Interfacing and hem tape
Quilted fabrics

9. Fabric Finishing Converters
Mills that change greige goods into finished fabrics
Applying colors, designs, or surface treatments
Bleaching
Dyeing
Printing
Finishes

10. Fabric finishing
Applying colors, designs or surface treatments that change the look, feel, or performance of fabrics.
Bleaching: Chemical processes that remove natural colors, impurities, or spots from fibers.
Dyeing: A method of giving color to a fiber, yarn, fabric, or garment using coloring agents called dyes.
Printing: The process of adding color, pattern, or design to the surface of fabrics.

11. Fabric finishing
Colorfast: Implies that the color in a fabric will not fade or change with normal expected use and care.
Two advantages are that the color will remain the same over time. Dye will not leach into other laundry.
Hand: The way a fabrics feel to the touch.

12. Finish categories
Mechanical: Finishes that are applied mechanically rather than chemically.
Affect size and appearance
Examples: preshrinking, glazing, embossing, brushing/napping/cutting (corduroy)
Chemical: Finishes that become part of the fabric through chemical reactions with the fibers.
Affect performance
Examples: antistatic, flame retardant or resistant, stain and soil resistant (Scotchgard®), waterproof, permanent press, preshrunk (Sanforized®)

13. Purposes for fabric finishes
Improve feel.
Improve performance of fabric.
To add color or design.
To make water repellant.
To make softer, shinier, or crisper.
To make wrinkle-resistant.
Add soil-release finish.

14. Color Characteristics
Color can be introduced at many stages.
When color is introduced
depends on the fiber
content and the intended
end use.
Dyeing methods include:
Fiber Dyed before yarn spinning
Yarn Dyed
Fabric Dyed (also called Piece dyeing)
Garment Dyed (also called Product dyeing).

15. Dyeing Fiber Adding color to fibers before spinning into yarns Yarn
Placing yarns in dye bath
before making into fabric
Piece
Fabrics dyed after weaving or knitting
Garment
Dyed after construction

16. Dyeing
Solution dyeing is the process of dyeing manufactured fibers by adding dye to the liquid before the fiber is forced through the spinneret.
Fiber dyeing is the process of dyeing fibers before they are spun into yarns.
Stock dyeing is the process of adding dye to loose fibers.

17. Dyeing
Yarn dyeing is a dyeing process in which yarns are first wound onto spools and than placed in a dye bath.
Plaid and striped fabrics are constructed from dyed yarns.
Piece dyeing is the process of adding dye after the fabric has been made. It is the most common method of dyeing.

18. Yarn Dyeing
Spools of yarn are dyed one color in a large vat, then mixed with other spools to form striped and plaid fabric.

19. Piece Dyeing
Entire rolls of fabric are dyed a uniform color with piece dying.

20. Printing Adding color, pattern, or design to surface of fabric
Overall prints
Same across fabric
Directional prints
Specific direction to pattern
Plaids
Even - same in warp and weft
Uneven - different in warp or weft

21. Printing Methods Heat Transfer Roller Screen Digital Rotary Screen
Design on printed paper transferred to fabric by heat and pressure
Digital
Computer method uses ink-jet printing
Flocking
Fibers attached by patterned glue
Roller
Applies color design by roller
Screen
Similar to stenciling
Rotary Screen
Applies color design by cylinder-shaped nylon screens

22. Printing Fabrics Printing is another way to color fabrics.
In printed fabrics, one side appears lighter.
Three common fabric printing methods are:
roller printing
rotary screen printing
block printing

23. Printing Fabrics
Roller printing (direct printing) transfers color to a fabric as it passes between a series of rollers.
In rotary screen printing, dye is applied to a fabric through a cylinder-shaped screen, one color at the time.
Roller printing, however, accounts for the majority of fabrics printed.

24. Roller Printing
In roller printing, each engraved cylinder rolls over the fabric, imposing a multicolored design.

25. Printing Fabrics Block printing:
is a method of hand printing fabric by stamping a pattern with a dye-covered block.
is the oldest technique for decorating textiles.
is seldom done commercially because it is costly and time-consuming.

26. Printing Color Printing methods include:
Direct Dyeing (directly adds color to the fabric in the pattern desired by a stamp or roller)
Discharge Printing (where the fabric is dyed, then a chemical is used to remove color)
Resist Printing (when color is prevented from entering a piece of fabric such as batik, tie-dye, or screen printing)

27. Printing Color Printing methods include:
Stencil Printing (is when a design is cut from thin metal sheets)
Jet Printing (which uses a continuous stream of dye that is forced through jets to color the fibers.
Burn outs
Laser
Space dyeds

28. Colorfastness
Colorfastness refers to the durability and performance of the fabric color.
Ways that color may be changed or destroyed are:
Crocking (the rubbing of color from fabric).
Bleeding (fading or loss of color in water).
Migration (when color shifts from one area of a printed fabric to another).
Frosting (localized change or loss in color caused by abrasion during wear or cleaning).
Fading (loss of color by sunlight, perspiration, washing, or bleaching).

29. Colorfast Tests
To determine if crocking will occur use a white cloth or white paper towel and rub lightly to see if the color rubs off. This test can be done with a dry cloth and a wet cloth.
Placing fabric in a bowl of water and using varying temperatures will tell you if the fabric is colorfast to water.
To test if migrating will occur placing a printed fabric in a bowl of water at varying temperatures will tell you in the color will transfer to other parts of the fabric.
To see if a garment is faded check the shoulders of garments in retail stores to see if any color has been lost.

30. FABRIC FINISHES
A fabric finish is any treatment to the fiber, yarn, or fabric which changes the appearance and behavior of the fabric.
The purpose of a finish is:
to increase the aesthetic value either by appearance, hand, or drape; and
to increase the functional value or its serviceability.

31. Fabric Finishes
All fabrics receive one or more finishes during or after fabric construction.
Most finishes are applied to add certain characteristics to the fabric, such as:
resisting wrinkles and stains
reducing shrinkage
retarding flames
preventing static buildup

32. Fabric Finishes
A protective fabric finish is being applied in a high-speed, heat-activated process.

33. Fabric Finishes
Antistatic Fabric finishes- prevent fabrics from clinging together.
Flammable Fabrics Act- Requires Children’s sleepwear to be fire retardant.
Fabric finishes
Make garments more useful and beautiful.
Improve appearance, texture, and performance of a garment.
Applied to the surface of a fabric.

34. Fabric Finishes Fabric finishes may be:
Temporary – these type of finishes will last only until the first washing or dry cleaning.
Durable – these finishes will last through several washings or dry cleanings.
Permanent – these type of finishes will last the life of the fabric.

35. Types of Finishes Abrasion Resistant Absorbent Anti-Bacterial
These are a few of the most common finishes, the hangtag or garment label should tell you if the fabric has been finished.
Abrasion Resistant
Absorbent
Anti-Bacterial
Anti-Static
Calendering
Crease-Resistant
Fire-Resistant/Retardant
Fire-Proof
Permanent Press/
Durable Press
Sanforizing
Sizing
Soil Release
Spot and Stain-Resistant
Water Repellent
Waterproof
Descriptions of these finishes are found on page 7 in the advanced clothing skill-a-thon guide.

36. Finishes Types of Finishes:
Emerising is a process by which garments are passed through rollers to soften the fabric
Microsanding
This is done by use of special machines and does not involve chemicals
Makes the fabric smoother.
Peaching
This refers to a stronger process of brushing the fabric using fine wire brushes
This finish is widely used on outdoor cargos.
Makes the fabric softer. 36

37. Washes
Finished garments treated with catalysts to get the required effect.
Garments which are 100% Cotton or Cotton blends are washed for various reasons.
Normally only Semiformal/casual garments are washed. 37

38. Washes Garments are washed for the following reasons:
To influence physical properties like
Softness/handle
Drape
Absorbency
Creasing
To create shrinkage and effects of shrinkage (pucker)
To influence appearance of fabric by changing the color or luster/ fashion purposes 38

39. Types of Washes Softener Wash
This is the simplest type of wash. This wash does not use enzymes and is not harsh on the garment.
Corduroys are washed using this type of wash
Stone wash:
Used on trousers to get the faded look. Garments are actually washed with stones in the washers in the presence of special enzymes
Enzyme wash 39

40. Types of Washes Feather wash:
This is an Enzyme wash to get softer feeling trousers. Used on twill trousers. Gives a slightly faded look.
Sand wash
Acid wash:
Used widely on denims
Other types of washes: Golf ball wash, pumice wash etc. 40

41. Special Treatments Wrinkle Free
100% cotton trousers which are given a special chemical treatment.
The Tencel-cotton range from Allen Solly is also wrinkle free
Such trousers feel softer, have enhanced breathability, do not shrink or wrinkle.
Perfect for business meetings and travel 41

42. Special Treatments Anti bacterial:
These garments are given a special bacteriostatic finish which prevents bacterial growth.
Hence garments do not catch body odor and are always fresh
This treatment is only done abroad. (imported fabric is used in our range)
Anti Static – to avoid static charges 42

43. Special Treatments Stain resistance:
Special chemical treatment given to trousers as a result of which liquids are not absorbed by the fabric.
This treatment is done on polyester blends
These garments do not crease easily
Perfect for party wear and travel.
Stain release
This garment stains but releases the stain on washing with plain water. 43

44. Standards Quality Performance
Rate textiles according to levels of defects
Performance
Rate textiles for specific end-use suitability

45. The Textile Industry
Specialized companies perform stages of the textile segment of the chain
Technology necessary
CAD/CAM
Fashion
Tracking designs, trends, forecasts
Marketing
Planning, pricing, promoting, distributing

46. Selling Finished Fabrics
Staple fabrics
Sold each year with little or no change in construction
Novelty fabrics
Fashion fabrics that change with style trends
Overruns
When a mill makes more fabric than was ordered by customers

47. Trade Information TEXTILES
American Textile Manufacturers Institute, Inc. (ATMI)
Industry-wide marketing, government relations, trade policies
American Printed Fabrics Council, Inc. (APFC)
Printing achievements
American Association of Textile Chemists and Colorists (AATCC)
Wet processing aspects
TEXTILES

48. Future of Textiles Continued U.S. innovation
Stay internationally competitive
Update plants
Continued automation
Flexibility and versatility for shorter production runs of different fabrics
Increased knit production
Textile firms need more sophisticated marketing techniques

49. Do You Know . . .
A finishing term that ends in “proof” means complete protection (as in waterproof).
Hand is the term used for textiles that refers to the way fabrics feel to the touch. Hand may apply to drape, softness, firmness, crispness, or elasticity.