1. Chemical Finishing Process
Textile Finishing Technology
SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG
Kelas XII Semester 5 dan 6

2. Vocational Competence
Chemical Finishing Process
Describe your chemical process improvement Implement and control of the process sizing Implement and control of the process of resin Implement and control of the process creeping Implement and control of the process partmentizing describe your chemical process improvement
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

3. Introduction Textile Finishing Global Finishing Special Finishing
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4. Definition Global Finishing
Finishing is the final series of operations that produced finished textile fabric from greige goods
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

5. Global Finishing Woven goods fibre yarn knitwear Pretreatment Dyeing
White goods
Printing
Special Finishing
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6. Special Finishing
Finishing processing are made according to final purpose of use of dyed materials.
As such there are processing to improve handles
Like stiff
Bulky
Crush resistance
Softening finishing
Anti static
Water and oil repellent
Permanent press
Soil releasefinishing
Etc.
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

7. Special finishing Wet processing Sizing Spesial Finishing Resin finish
Mechanical finish
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8. I. Wet Processing 1. Mercerisation
Mercerisation is a treatment for cotton fabric and thread that gives fabric a lustrous appearance. The process is applied to materials like cotton or hemp.
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

9. Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre
The process was devised in 1844 by John Mercer of Great Harwood, Lancashire, England, who treated cotton fibres with sodium hydroxide, whilst at the same time keeping the material under tension
Mercerisation alters the chemical structure of the cotton fibre
The structure of the fibre changes from alpha-cellulose to beta-cellulose.
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

10. Mercerising results in the swelling of the cell wall of the cotton fibre.
This causes increases in the surface area and reflectance, and gives the fiber a softer feel.
The modern production method for mercerised cotton, also known as "pearl" or "pearle" cotton
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

11. a sodium hydroxide bath that is then neutralized with an acid bath.
This treatment increases lustre, strength, affinity to dye, resistance to mildew, but also increases affinity to lint
Cotton with long staple fibre lengths responds best to mercerisation.
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

12. Performance of the merserized goods largely depends on
1. Auxiliaries
2. Temperatur
3. Time process
4. Stretching
5. Materials quality
6. Construction
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

13. Solution temperatur 20°C
Optimum condition
30 – 36 °Be Sodium hydroxide
0,5 – 1 % wetting agent
Solution temperatur 20°C
40 second treatment
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14. Swelling of cotton merserized process
1 – 5 : Swelling after alkali treatment
6 : after washing
7 : after drying
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

15. The aims of merserization can be summarised as follows :
Obtaining a lustre an the fabric surface
Dimensional stability
Higher strength
Uniform swelling of the cellulose fabric
Better dye uptake through an increase in the inner surface
Improved dye absorption
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

16. Machinery used in Merserization
1. Chain Merserized machine
Alkali tank
Chain
Hot washing
Cold washing and netralized
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17. 2. Chainless Merserized Machine
Padder
Alkali tank
Hot washing
Cold washing
Stretcher roll
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18. Merserized machine
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19. Merserized Machine
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20. Wet Processing 2. Swiss Finish
Specially for voille and organdy fabric.
Salient feature of swiss finish:
See through
Brightness
Poor handfeel
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

21. Treatment with caustic soda 29-300Be, 0-100 C. (like merserized)
The degree of swiss finish following a one stage in combination with H2SO4 give result see through for organdy and voille fabric
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

22. Swiss finish machine
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23. Wet Processing 3. Parchmentizing Process
Parchmentizing process is a treatment for cotton that gives fabric a stiffness, transparant and pattern effect
Also known as Heberlein process
Acid consentrate, temperature and times process are important to control
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

24. Objectives of parchmentizing process
H2SO4 concentration
Result
50° Be
Soft like wool
52 – 53 °Be
Stiff ang shrinkage
55 °Be
Hard and transparant
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

25. Wet Processing 4. Creeping
A light weight fabric characterized by a crinkling surface obtained by the use of:
hard-twist filling yarns (canton crepe, crepe marocam)
chemical treatment (seersucker, plisse, blister, wrinkle effect)
crepe weaves
embossing.
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

26. Canton crepe fabric
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27. Seersucker fabric
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28. Plisse fabric
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29. Blister crepe fabric
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30. Wrinkle crepe fabric
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31. Emboss crepe
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32. II. Sizing
Sizing
Warp yarn
Fabric sizing
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33. a. Warp yarn sizing Objectives
To improve the weavability of the warp yarns and to over come inherent deficiencies of the yarns
To hold the individual fiber of yarns together so it withstand stress and strains of weaving operations
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

34. introduction Sizing is a process
Of applying a film forming polymer to the warp yarn
To provide temporary protection to the warp yarns from abrasive and other types of stresses generated on the weaving machines
To reduce warp breakages
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

35. Agent and process
The agent of this process is commonly starch and other additives such as sizing greases, waxes, paraffins, antistatic agents, etc, but they have defied problems at the desizing process
The sizing process lasted different time (3,5 and 10 min) bath ratio 1 : 20 and solution temperature 20 and 60°C
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

36. Sizing Machine
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37. What sizing should do? It should :
Improve tensile strength and abrasion resistance of the yarn
Reduce the hairiness of the yarns
Reduce the generation of static charge when polyester- blend- yarns is used
Improve over all efficiency of the weaving process
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

38. The most commonly used types of starch and the possibilities for removing them
Soluble in water
Insoluble in water
Natural starch
Potato starch
Maize starch
Rice starch
Wheat starch
Carboxymetil cellulose
Methyl cellulose
Polyvinyl alcohol
Acrylates
Modified starch
- Starch ester
Protein
Starch ether
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

39. Feature of size Teknologi dan Rekayasa
Good penetration and high strength
Very high abration resistance
Good flexibility
Bacterial resistance
Compability with all kind of size and binder and easy to remove
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

40. Size paste Teknologi dan Rekayasa starch Wetting agent Humectant agent
Catalyst
Anti bacteria
Water
Etc
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

41. Sizing method Single ends sizing method Slasher sizing method
Hank sizing method
Single ends sizing method
Slasher sizing method
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

42. b. Fabric sizing objective Teknologi dan Rekayasa Handling
Dimention stability
weighting
objective
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43. Size paste Teknologi dan Rekayasa Starch Anti septic Wetting agent
Filler
Water
etc
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44. Process Teknologi dan Rekayasa sizing solution Padding Drying
calandering
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45. fabric sizing receipes
Nansvole fabric
Corn starch 2 g/l
Tapioca starch 2 g/l
Wetting agent 8 g/l
Shirts fabric
Dextrin 4 g/l
Corn starch 3 g/l
Tapioca starch 3 g/l
Tallow 5 g/l
Drill
Corn starch 60 g/l
TRO 10 g/l
Voille fabric
Dextrine 4 %
TRO 0,4 %
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

46. Sizing machine Benninger sizing machine Slot Sizing Machine
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47. III. Resin Finish a. Objective
After dyeing, finishing process is usually given to improve their quality and value
There are processing to improve handles (like stiff, bulky, crush resistance, softening sinishing), anti static, water and oil repellent, permanen press and soil release finishing, etc
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

48. B. Method of finishing Padding Intermediate drying Curing 12
Intermediate drying 3
Curing
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49. Padding Impregnating units Teknologi dan Rekayasa
Consist of a 2 bowl padder
The fabric web passes from top to bottom
Impregnation can be “dry-on-wet” or “wet-on-wet”
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

50. Padder
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51. Padder
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52. Padder
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53. Padder
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54. The folowing formula can be used as aguide for calculating the increased consentration of the replenishing liquor
(F-R) + A x R
100
F =
(F-R)
F = liquor pick up in % after impregnation
R = water content in % before impregnation
A = liquor exchange in %
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

55. An example of finishing conditions is1
Padding : 1 or 2 dips, 1 or 2 nips, pick-up 60 – 80% 2
Intermediate drying : 80 – 110oC x 30 – 180 sec 3
Curing : 150 – 170oC x 30 – 180 sec
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

56. Drying and curing
Drying is done only at the surface only. Drying does not disrupt the distribution of fibers in pereaksi Drying without tension to avoid condensation of solvent to the surface
Resin is the process by which resins or plastics are set in or on textile materials, usually by heating.
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

57. Stenter machine (Monfort)
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

58. Stenter machine (Monfort)
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

59. Stenter machine (Monfort)
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

60. Stenter machine (Monfort)
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

61. Stenter machine (Monfort)
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62. Stenter machine
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63. Resin Formulation Teknologi dan Rekayasa 1 Amino-aldehida condencation2
catalyst 3
auxilliries
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

64. Melamine formaldehida
Amino-aldehida condensation, such as :
Urea formaldehida
Melamine formaldehida
Dimetilol etilen ure
Dimetilol triazon
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

65. Catalyst
The reaction catalyst can be one ordinarily employed in resin finishing, ex : include free acids, amonium salts and metallic salts
Ammonium chloride
Ammonium phosphate
Zinc fluoroborate
Magnesium chloride
Zinc nitrate
Zinc chlorida
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

66. Chemical for finishing process
Finishing agents and resins with suitable properties for respective processing purposes have been developed
Teknologi dan Rekayasa

67. Handle finishing Teknologi dan Rekayasa Stiff finish
Combination of melamine resin and organic amine type catalyst
Bulky and elastic finish
Both polyamide type, sometimes combined with melamine resin and organic amine type catalyst
Softening finish
Non ionik softener
Some softener may lower fastness considerable
Permanent press finish
Base resin
Metallic salt catalyst
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68. Finishing for special properties
Anti static finish
Anti static agent
Water and oil repellent finish
Fluoro resin
Water repellent finish
Silicone resin
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69. References
Trotman E.R., Dyeing and Chemical Technology of Textile Fibre, Fourth edition, Griffin, London, 1970
Moerdoko Wibowo,dkk., Teknologi Penyempurnaan Tekstil, Sekolah Tinggi Teknologi Tekstil, Bandung, 1973
Soenarto, Teknologi Pencelupan dan Pencapan Jilid 2., Direktorat Pembinaan Sekolah Menengah Kejuruan, Jakarta, 2008
Sabit Adanur,B.S.,M.s.,Ph.D., Handbook of Weaving, Sulzer Textile Limited, Switzerland, 2001
Hoechst Aktiengesellschaft, Pretreatment of Cotton Fabric, Germany, 1983
Technical Information, Sumikaron Colors ,Sumitomo Chemical Co.,Ltd., Sumitomo Chemical Co.,Ltd.
www. Alibaba.com
www. Wotol.com
www. Monforts
10. Wikipedia
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70. Thanks for your attention
SMKN 1 KATAPANG KABUPATEN BANDUNG