1. 1 From Yarn to Fabric Chapter 19

2. 2 Yarns  Spun yarn – made from short, staple fibers  Rough surface  Pills – tiny balls of fiber that appear in places of wear  Spun yarn pills

3. 3  Monofilament – made from a single filament Plastic-like thread used to hem garments  Multifilament – group of filaments

4. 4 Twist in Yarns  Twist is needed to hold the fibers and filaments together  Low twist is used in multifilament  Fluffy  High twist are hard and compact (Less common today) viole, and crepe

5. 5 Textured Yarns  Makes yarn less smooth  Crimped, looped or coiled  Makes them more absorbent, comfortable  More bulk and stretch  Less static build up

6. 6 Single, ply and cord Yarns  See page 304 figure 19-2  First step in twist is single yarn  Ply yarn = twisting two or ore single yarns together  Corn yarn = ply yarns are twisted together

7. 7 Blends & Combinations  Blend = different staple fibers are spun together  Combination = two different single yarns are twisted into a ply

8. 8  Better performance, better appearance, lower prices  Add acrylic to wool to lower price  Many shirts are blends  65% polyester and 35% cotton

9. 9 Fabrics  Two most common methods of making fabric are:  Weaving  Knitting

10. 10 Weaving  Process of interlacing yarns at right angles to each other  Done on looms  Two yarns are used:  Warp = lengthwise  Filling = crosswise

11. 11  Filling yarn is weaker than warp yarn  Jacquard looms = large and complex designs  Damask, brocade, tapestry

12. 12 3 Basic Weaves  1. plain weave = “over one, under one”  Strong, durable, easy to sew  More than one yarn at a time to get a basket weave

13. 13  2. twill weave  Figure 19-9 page 308  Yarn in one direction floats over 2 or more yarns in the other direction  Produces a distinct diagonal  Resist wrinkles, hides soil  Herringbone twill = large wale in wool like fabrics

14. 14  3. Satin Weave  Floating a yarn from one direction over four or more yarns from the other direction and then under one yarn  Known for the luster, resist wrinkles  Satin, sateen, etc

15. 15 Knitting  New compared to weaving  Done by machine  Done by looping the yarns together

16. 16 Weft Knitting  Loops are made as yarn is added in crosswise direction  Circular or flat machines  Double knit is an example

17. 17 Warp Knitting  Loops are made by one or more sets of warp yarns  Fastest way to make cloth  Done on flat machines  Less elastic and lighter in weight

18. 18 Knitted Fabrics  Knits are comfortable  Adjust to shape of body  Warm in winter and cool in summer  Resist wrinkling  versatile

19. 19 Other Fabric Constructions  Felt = short wool fibers which have overlapping scales  Heat, moisture and pressure applied to fibers, the scales interlock to form a solid mass  Thick, stiff and warm, moldable

20. 20 Nonwoven Fabrics  Staple fibers are held together by adhesives  Heat used to “melt” fibers together  Cost less than woven or knitted  Diapers, hospital sheets, operating gowns, bandages, towel, etc

21. 21 Films  Not made of fibers  Thin sheets of vinyl and urethane  Coating on fabrics  Low cost and waterproof  Finished to look like leather or woven fabric

22. 22 Bonded Fabrics  Process of permanently sealing (gluing) one fabric to another  Tricot know is used often as a backing  More body than single fabrics  Wrinkle less, easy to sew, no fray

23. 23 Adding Color  Dyes are used to produce 5 million different colors  Computers programmed to match colors  No dye is colorfast  Fastness depends on chemical make up and fibers used

24. 24 Dyeing  Fiber dyeing  Fibers are dyed before they are spun into yarns  Solution dyed (manufactured fibers) Dye added before the spinneret  Stock dyed (natural fibers) Added to loose fibers

25. 25 Yarn Dyeing  After yarn on spools placed in a dye bath  Most plaid and striped are yarn dyed  Costs less

26. 26 Piece Dyeing  Most common  Color added after fabric has been made  Allowed to follow fashion trends  Some solid colors others not  Cross dyeing = fabric of one color placed in dye bath to be plaid or check

27. 27 Printing  Wrong side of most printed fabrics is much lighter  If both are the same they were dyed  Direct roller printing= design is etched on copper rollers  Rotary screen printing = newest and fastest  Design transferred onto a cylinder-shaped screen, dye forced through pattern of holes

28. 28 Finishing  Any treatment given to fibers, yarns, or fabrics  Makes final product look, feel, or perform differently

29. 29 Finishes  Applied with heat, pressure or chemicals  Make textiles more beautiful and more useful

30. 30 Textile Finishes  Antistatic = chemical treatment to prevent static electricity  Bleaching = chemical treatment to whiten fabrics  Brushing = removes short, loose fibers and make soft pile

31. 31  Calendering = heat and pressure applied to make smooth polished surface  Crease-resistant, durable press, and wash and wear= treating fabrics with resins Baked into cotton, rayon, linen Resist wrinkles Stains more difficult to get out

32. 32  Flame resistant = all children’s clothing, carpets, rugs, mattresses Chemical works by cutting off oxygen supply

33. 33  Mildew resistant = metallic chemical applied to fabric  Mercerization = chemically treated to improve luster, strength, absorbency  Moth repellent = chemicals added to dye baths

34. 34  Napping = fiber ends are pulled from low twist, spun fibers (soft & fuzzy)  Preshrunk – moisture and heat  Sanforized =trademark name fabrics will not shrink more than 1% in any direction

35. 35  Scotchgard = trademark name for an oil and water repellant finish  Soil release = allows fabric to more easily “wetted”, helps detergents release soil  Water repellant = finish to tightly woven fabrics (not permanent)

36. 36  Weighting= add metallic salts to silk to increase fabric weight and crispness