1. Cooking and Heating Stansport® Portable Outdoor Butane Heater Mr. Heater® Portable Buddy™ Indoor Safe Propane Heater Portable Heaters & Cookers Camping Fire Pits & Portable Cooking Grills Portable Camping Stoves & Ovens Canned Fuel & Candle Cookers Portable Propane Radiant Heater Sun Oven Solar Cooker

2. Camping Stoves Some of life's most memorable moments are shared as friends and families eat great-tasting meals around a warm campfire. For years, Preparedness.com has been selling the Camp Chef stove line as well as the Coleman Company and Stansport indoor and outdoor stoves and cooking accessories. The outdoor camping stoves and cookware products have enhanced the quality of life for families everywhere. Choosing a Camping Stove Selecting a camping stove is easy once you know the choices and have decided what type of camping trips your family will be taking. Stoves can have one, two or three burners. They will use propane, butane, white gas ("Coleman fuel"), unleaded gasoline, or kerosene. Here is the info you need in order to pick a stove for your trips. Size It will be easier for your first few trips if the stove has at least two burners. This will allow you to use nearly all the same food as at home. With two burners, you can have a typical two-pot meal, like pasta on one burner and sauce on the other. You can even add a third pot by heating up one dish and setting it aside while you heat the others. Brands like Coleman and Stansport typically offer a couple versions of each two-burner stove, with the difference being the space for the pots. The "standard" sizes are adequate for most small families, and with a little creativity and planning, can function well for up to ten persons. This size can be a good choice for larger families if there will be a campfire which could be used to heat some dishes. Otherwise, you might want to try the extra large size stove, as it will accommodate larger pots and may even put out more heat.

3. White Gas/Fuel White Gas ("Coleman") Fuel You will encounter all the fuels named above such as propane, butane, white gas ("Coleman fuel"), unleaded gasoline, or kerosene. However, I recommend only two real choices - propane or white gas ("Coleman Fuel"). The white gas stoves will product the most heat of any camping stoves. It burns cleanly without any odor or effect on food taste. If you spill the fuel it will evaporate very quickly and will not leave an odor. This is very important - sooner or later some fuel will spill on your hand or clothes, maybe even on your table. No problem though. Many of the white gas stoves now come in a "dual fuel" version. This will allow you to use unleaded auto gas. Many campers use the auto gas and are satisfied with it. However, if you spill it or get it on your hands, you will have a hard time getting rid of the odor (check your hands the next time you fill up at the self service gas station). I recommend using only the white gas in the dual fuel stoves, unless you run out and can't buy any - then use a little unleaded gas. This is the advantage to the dual fuel stoves. The main advantage of the unleaded fuel over white gas is cost. Auto gas is about $3.50 to $5.00 per gallon, while white gas is about $4.50. I feel the extra cost for the few gallons of white gas used each year is worth paying so you get the cleanliness of this fuel.

4. Liquid Fuel or Propane Canister? Stoves are essentially divided into two kinds - liquid fuel and canister. Liquid fuel stoves range in size from the three-burner giant Coleman you grandfather used with his cast iron skillet to make pancakes (those were the days, no?) to lightweight backpacking stoves that weigh next to nothing. Prpane canister stoves would be the same, if you consider a 15-pound propane tank a canister.

5. Following is a summary: Propane burns cleanly and produces a hot, steady flame. It works well in very cold temperatures and at high altitudes. However, the gas canisters for propane have thick metal walls, making them unsuitable for applications where weight is important (e.g. mountain or long distance backpacking). Butane and Isobutane burn well and work at high altitudes. However, they are not very hot and do not work well at low temperatures (under 40º F. or 4º C.) as the gas doesn't vaporize well. However, the gas canister is lighter than for Propane. Propane & Butane blends combine the benefits of Propane (work well at cold temperatures) and Butane (relatively light canister). The higher the percentage of Propane, the better the performance under cold conditions. Before purchasing a given type of gas, ensure that your gas stove accepts that type of gas. Also check that the connection on the gas bottle fits your stove (there are many different types of gas connections, which vary by country, manufacturer of gas canister and even type of gas). With some gas stoves the gas canister connects directly to the stove whereas with others the gas canister connects via tubes or gas lines. The former tends to be a lighter and simpler package overall. If the gas canister connects directly to the stove, the stove may have been designed with a specific type of canister (and maybe even a specific manufacturer of canister) in mind; check compatibility before you buy. Liquid Fuel Camping Stoves: Choosing a type of fuel With liquid fuel stoves, in addition to the intended type of liquid fuel (e.g. white gas or Coleman fuel) the stoves often will burn a variety of different liquid fuels (e.g. diesel, kerosene, petrol, gasoline, etc.). While these alternative fuels are generally inferior to the standard liquid fuels (and in some cases will clog the stove), they are readily available almost anywhere. Consequently, if travelling in undeveloped countries or remote regions where standard camping stove fuels are unavailable, the ability to use these backup fuels may be important to you. Here is a short summary of liquid fuels: White Gas or Coleman fuel. Burns cleanly and provides a strong heat (allowing fast cooking). It performs well in most weather conditions. If spilled it evaporates quickly and without leaving an odour (an important point as it is almost certain that you will spill some at some time). Widely available in North America but may be difficult to find in many countries. Coleman fuel is a proprietary version of white gas which has been (or so it is claimed) specifically for Coleman stoves. Alcohol. Burns cleanly and is a relatively safe fuel. If spilled it evaporates quickly and without leaving an odour (an important point as it is almost certain that you will spill some at some time). However, if burns cooler than other fuels (cooking takes longer) and less efficiently (poor heat to weight ratio). It is also relatively expensive. With clear alcohol it can be difficult to see the flame, which can be a safety issue. Kerosene. Widely available in almost all countries and inexpensive. However, it is a dirty fuel and can gum up fuel lines, requiring more cleaning and maintenance of your stove. The fumes smell and are toxic. However, somewhat safer than gasoline (see immediately below). Unleaded gasoline (Widely available and relatively inexpensive, but burns very dirty. It also tends to gum up fuel lines. If it spills it can ignite easily and under certain conditions can explode. The fumes smell and are toxic. Consequently, an undesirable fuel which should only be used if no suitable fuels are available.

6. Here is a short summary of liquid fuels: White Gas or Coleman fuel. Burns cleanly and provides a strong heat (allowing fast cooking). It performs well in most weather conditions. If spilled it evaporates quickly and without leaving an odour (an important point as it is almost certain that you will spill some at some time). Widely available in North America but may be difficult to find in many countries. Coleman fuel is a proprietary version of white gas which has been (or so it is claimed) specifically for Coleman stoves. Alcohol. Burns cleanly and is a relatively safe fuel. If spilled it evaporates quickly and without leaving an odour (an important point as it is almost certain that you will spill some at some time). However, if burns cooler than other fuels (cooking takes longer) and less efficiently (poor heat to weight ratio). It is also relatively expensive. With clear alcohol it can be difficult to see the flame, which can be a safety issue. Kerosene. Widely available in almost all countries and inexpensive. However, it is a dirty fuel and can gum up fuel lines, requiring more cleaning and maintenance of your stove. The fumes smell and are toxic. However, somewhat safer than gasoline (see immediately below). Unleaded gasoline (Widely available and relatively inexpensive, but burns very dirty. It also tends to gum up fuel lines. If it spills it can ignite easily and under certain conditions can explode. The fumes smell and are toxic. Consequently, an undesirable fuel which should only be used if no suitable fuels are available.

7. Canned Fuel & Candle Cookers All of these emergency heat and cooking kits are an incredibly simple source of heat and cooking and light. light the wick or fuel gel and your ready to go! Ideal emergency preparedness, camping, boating item. Canned fuels are very versatile and are great to use in a variety of applications to cook and warm including emergency kits, trekking, boating, picnics, hunting, backpacking, heating your tent, RV, camper and more. To extinguish to flame, simply replace the lid on the can or with the "Snap-on-Stove" damper. Relight the fuel at any time for continued burning. All of our canned fuels are a clean burning, self contained source of dependable heat and are safe for indoor use. All may be used for a variety of applications. Each can of canned cooking and heating fuel provides many hours of light-heat-cooking. Each kit comes with a can of fuel and attachable reusable cooktop. Replacement cans of fuel sold below.

8. Campfire Grill

9. Stansport® Portable Outdoor Butane Heater Certified For Indoor & Outdoor Use! A must have disaster preparedness item! Uses easy to find and install Disposable Propane Cylinders! CLICK ON PICTURE TO VIEW PORTABLE BUDDY™ IN ACTUAL USE! The latest evolution in a small heater is here! Portable Buddy™ from Enerco/Mr. Heater now takes portable heat to another level - 9000 BTU/HR with the capacity to heat up to 200 square feet of space for up to 110 hours (on low position)using a 20 lb propane cylinder. Will provide heat up to 6 hours using an easy to install disposable cylinder. Great little heater for camping, fishing, hunting and emergency preparedness. Dual-position heat settings of 4,000, 9,000 BTU/HR control comfort level. Built-in oxygen shutoff sensor and tip-over switch ensures indoor safe operation (adequate ventilation must be provided; see operating instructions). Certified by CSA International (American Gas Association), Mr. Heater's portable Buddy Indoor Safe Heater features a low oxygen safety shutoff pilot to provide safe, reliable propane heat indoors.

10. Mr. Heater® Portable Propane Radiant Heater, Model MH12TS Mr. Heater's original portable Radiant propane heater, the single burner with sparklite electronic push button start, is an 8,000 to 14,000 BTU radiant propane heater. This unit mounts to your standard 5 to 20-pound propane barbecue tank. This heater has a high, medium, and low regulator. It also features a safety shutoff and thermocouple. The single propane heater will operate for approximately 30 hours on high, 45 hours on low, on a 20-pound cylinder. This heater is great for the outdoor enthusiast. Designed for outdoor use only.

11. EcoFuel XB™ Canned Cooking & Heating Fuel Eco-Fuel is safe for indoor use! Camping & Hiking, Boating & Emergencies. Non-explosive, Non-hazardous! ECO-FUEL XB™ IS THE ONLY CANNED FUEL THAT CAN BRING WATER TO A BOIL! ENCAPCELLON TECHNOLOGY™ Patented "Encapcellon Technology" creates a unique combustion at the top of the canned fuel and eliminates spills. Eco-Fel XB canned fuel Keeps food hotter longer with no danger of alcohol gel fires, and more heat than wicks. Safer, easier to use, cost effective. This fuel is clean burning. Free from toxic fumes and 100% biodegradable. Each can features a dual temperature lid that allows you to control the heat for 5 hours of cooking at 400 degrees or 10 hours of warming at 200 degrees. EcoFuel XB (Extended Burn) is the safest and best performing canned heat for cooking or warming with no offensive odors!

12. Stansport® Portable Outdoor Butane Heater The Stansport® portable outdoor butane heater gives you ultra-quiet, reliable operation in a compact design. It offers matchless (does not require power to light) lighting with an electronic ignition (built-in). Camp heater gives warmth up to 6,000 BTU. Great personal heater for the outdoors. A must have when ice fishing, hunting, camping, tailgate parties, patio, etc. We do not ship butane gas canisters. 8 oz. butane canisters cost a couple of bucks each and can be purchased at many hardware and camping stores.

13. Cooking inside the tent—NOT!!. Many people advise that this should never be done, due to safety risks and also due to the possibility of damage to the tent or contents. However, if you decide to ignore this advice, ensure that the stove flame and any other stove surfaces are well away from any items that can melt or burn (such as your tent walls, roof, sleeping bags, etc.). Also, ensure that there is some ventilation, to avoid risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

14. Propane Fuel The second fuel option is propane. Propane does not give out as much heat as the white gas stoves, but it has some very significant advantages for family camping. First, propane stoves are much easier to use. The propane comes in bottles that are screwed into the stove, not poured into a small tank's filler spout. It will not spill. All you need to do to start the stove is turn on the gas, and light the burner - just like home. There are even propane stoves with built in electronic starters - just like home. This feature makes the transition from cooking at home to cooking at camp easier for most people. Second, propane stoves are available for use with small fuel bottles, or even large RV type bottles. If you start camping a lot, you will find that the small bottles may be very, very, convenient, but very, very expensive. However, if you buy a stove that has a hose to screw into a larger fuel tank, you can get a better price at the RV refill center. You will also save a lot of bottle changes that can happen right in the middle of cooking your meals. The propane tanks come in 5, 10 and 20 pound sizes. A typical patio gas barbeque grill has a 20 pound tank. The BBQ tank could be hooked up to a stove for the camping trip. Another option with the propane tank approach is to get the optional attachment that will supply propane to a lantern from the same tank. Now you will have a light in your "kitchen." This may be more than you really want for starting out. But if you start with the disposable-bottle type propane stove, you can grow to the tank version later.

15. Coleman® ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ Portable Indoor Safe Room/Tent Heater with InstaStart™ Safe Forced air heat in a portable heater! Designed for indoor use! Great for warming up tents and other smaller spaces. the ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ is a fantastic piece of gear that's very handy for any chilly outdoor excursion. So if you like to stay warm, but don't feel like burning up your favorite gear, then check out the Coleman® ProCat™ PerfectTemp™. Coleman® now has the answer for cold outdoor enthusiasts -- the ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ Heater. The ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ is a portable platinum catalytic heater that has been approved for use inside tents, campers, ice-fishing shacks, garages or even a duck blind. Essential for heating small rooms during power outages and a great piece of equipment for emergency preparedness. The reason the ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ is different from most heaters is that it's completely flameless, so you don't have to worry about melting your expensive tent. But, even though it's approved for inside use, you still need to allow the ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ ventilation by unzipping your tent's window a little, or cracking the window of your camper. The ProCat™ PerfectTemp™ is housed in a sturdy heavy-duty plastic shell and is 15 inches tall by 11 inches wide. The 8-inch heater head puts out 3,000 BTUs, which is more than enough for a tent or small room. Designed for indoor use Heater operates with or without batteries Silent, flameless heat source Use the fan for better heat circulation (2 D Batteries not included) Battery-operated fan provides increased heat circulation up to 20 hours (2 D Batteries not included) Electronic InstaStart®ignition for easy, matchless lighting 3,000 BTU of safe indoor heating Catalytic heater with platinum technology provides flameless safe warmth Pressure-regulated propane fuel system Operates up to 7 hours on 16.4 oz. propane cylinders found at most all hardware and sporting good stores Catalytic flameless warmth, 3,000 BTU, electronic ignition, operates up to eight hours on a 16.4 oz. cylinder (not included), wt 7 lbs

16. Portable Heaters Mr. Heater® Big Buddy™ Portable Indoor Safe Propane Heater

17. Solar Cooking/Heating Solar cooking requires only your oven and a sunny day. Brightness of the day, and not outside air temperature is the most important factor. Solar cooking entails a few basic principles; reflection, concentration, the green house effect and absorption. Solar ovens have properly arranged reflective inner walls to direct and concentrate the sun's energy on the dark pot or dark bottom tray. Solar cooking requires some oven adjustments to suit your situation and needs. For instance; early in the morning or late in the day the angled sun's rays aren't as strong, but you can still cook in the sun. You simply aim the oven at the sun. Even cloudy days permit some low temperature cooking. Your food will continue to cook as long as you have 20 minutes of sun an hour. Shelter from the wind, as strong winds cool the oven. So locate the most sunny and wind sheltered spot, and preheat your oven by simply setting it up prior to cooking. This could take up to 45 min. You can even take advantage of the sun's movement to aim your cooker to defrost in the morning, cook in the day, and keep warm until dinner in the afternoon. All that with the sun's movement and no oven adjustment. If you want consistent heat, you will

18. Dirty Water Dirty water may be caused by sediments and algae but often it's heavily contaminated with micro-organisms and sometimes even chemicals. Due to the many particles left in the water, when treating questionable water, chemical treatment will not always be effective. A mechanical filtration device may be necessary. Remember, the primary microorganisms of concern in most wilderness recreation areas are tough, hardy cystic parasites that resist heat and cold... even freezing...drought, chlorine, iodine and just about everything else. And while bacteria are relatively fragile and have very short life cycles, often less than a day, cysts can exist for months. All microorganisms of chief concern are invisibly small and they cannot be seen, smelled, or detected in any quick and easy manner. Accordingly, you should assume that all wilderness supplies are polluted. Assume All water you come in to contact with in the outdoors (and most Countries) is unsafe to drink until properly filtered or purified "no matter how clean it looks" In this section you will find the best products available today to handle your water filtering / purifying / treatment and testing needs.

19. Water Treatment Tablets & Purification Kits YOU MUST NOT DRINK QUESTIONABLE WATER FROM ANY SOURCE! Assume All water you come in to contact with in the outdoors (and most Countries) is unsafe to drink until properly filtered or purified "no matter how clean it looks". With the increased use of the wilderness there has also been an increase in the amount of bacteriological contamination of backcountry water supplies. The U.S. Environmental Protection Agency reports that 90 percent of the world’s water is contaminated in some way. There are a variety of microscopic organisms that can contaminate water supplies and cause potentially serious, even fatal, illnesses among wilderness travelers. The major danger in the backcountry from these infections is fluid loss due to diarrhea and vomiting, which can lead to hypovolemic shock and possibly death. In order to drink the water, you should be prepared to treat it.

20. Water Disinfectant Polar Pure will destroy water borne pathogens, including giardia cysts and other micro-organism that pass through some filters. Ideal for camping back packing, boating, emergency kits and other survival uses. A single bottle can treat up to 2000 quarts of water. It is cost effective—less than 1¢ per quart. Easy to follow instruction are printed on the bottle. Also attached to the bottle is a special thermometer to tell you exactly the correct dose. Bottle contains concentrated iodine crystals that are not affected by age, air, or temperature. Water is safe to drink 20 minutes after treatment. POLAR PURE Water Disinfectant uses pure crystallized iodine in a unique delivery system to destroy water-borne pathogens including giardia cysts and micro-organisms that pass through filters. When used as directed, approximately 300 ppm (parts per million) saturated iodine solution is maintained in the POLAR PURE bottle. This saturated solution is then used to disinfect your water at an optimal concentration of 4-5 ppm iodine which will destroy Giardia cysts in 20-30 minutes in a closed quart / liter bottle of 68° F, 20° C water (colder water will take longer). Saturation concentration varies with solution temperature. A Liquid Crystal Dosage Chart on the POLAR PURE bottle shows how many capfuls of saturated solution to add to one liter or quart of water to achieve a 4 ppm solution in your water bottle. You may also like Chlor-Floc® Water Treatment Purification Tablets Chlor-Floc® Water Treatment Purification Tablets Price: $12.90 Katadyn Micropur MP1 Emergency Drinking Water Treatment Tablets Katadyn Micropur MP1 Emergency Drinking Water Treatment Tablets Price: $14.90 McNett Aquamira® Water Treatment Drops McNett Aquamira® Water Treatment Drops Price: $13.99 Aquamira® FRONTIER™ Personal Survival Water Filter Straw Aquamira® FRONTIER™ Personal Survival Water Filter Straw Price: $14.90 Stansport� Heavy-Duty Toilet Bags for Portable Toilets Stansport� Heavy-Duty Toilet Bags for Portable Toilets Price: $4.19

21. Why do we need a drinking water system? More people are using drinking water systems while camping, backpacking and traveling. Why? Safety. Unfortunately, most lakes, rivers and streams are full of microorganisms that can make you sick. Drinking water systems can eliminate these contaminants and make the water safer to drink. Protect yourself, because you never know what's in the water. Freedom. Be self-sufficient with a drinking water system. As long as there is a water source, you can have safe drinking water. And, lightweight drinking water systems won't weigh you down like carrying extra water.

22. What's really in the water? Microorganisms are the primary threat in untreated water sources. They may be in any lake, river or stream, even if the water looks clean. Microorganisms generally come from animal waste and may be spread by rain and run-off. Beware of these 3 types of microorganisms: Protozoa, Viruses, Bacteria

23. Protozoa (2 microns and larger) Protozoa are the largest microorganisms (eg. Giardia and Cryptosporidium. Therefore, they are the easiest to filter out of the water. However, their protective shell makes them resistant to iodine and chlorine treatment alone. One common protozoa, Giardia, causes "Beaver's Fever." "In one study from over 10,000 samples from streams all across America, Alaska to Arizona, and they didn't find one without Giardia.“ (Chuck Hibler, Colorado State University. Backpacker Magazine, December 1996).

24. Bacteria range in size from 0.2 to 10 microns. Large bacteria may be removed by most microfilters, but smaller bacteria can only be eliminated by a very small micron size microfilter or a purifier. Bacteria are responsible for diseases such as Cholera and Typhoid Fever. Common bacteria are E. coli and Salmonella Bacteria (.2 microns and larager)

25. Viruses (.004 microns and larger) Viruses are the smallest microorganisms and cannot be reliably removed by filtration. It was traditionally thought that viruses aren't a concern in North America, but that opinion has changed. Wilderness studies suggest that 60% of all back county illnesses are actually caused by bacteria and viruses. Viruses can cause serious health problems, such as Hepatitis, Polio and Norwalk Virus. Viruses can be eliminated from water with purification, chemical disinfection, or boiling. Examples of viruses: Hepatitis A, Polio, Norwalk Virus

26. What is the best way to make water safe to drink? Purifying: Combines chemical disinfection with filtration to eliminate all three types of microorganisms. Boiling: Bring the water to a full boil to kill microorganisms. requires energy source and takes time. Iodine Tablets: Add 1 or 2 tablets per quart and wait 20 minutes to kill the microorganisms. Takes time and adds foul taste. limited effectiveness against Giardia and not effective against Cryptosporidium.

27. Filtering Filtering: Microfilters may remove protozoa and most bacteria. Doesn't remove viruses. May require frequent cleaning due to clogging. How do I choose a drinking water system? Use the Drinking Water Safety Guide to help you choose the best products for your needs. It organizes drinking water systems according to the #1 concern: safe water. Drinking Water Safety Guide Water System Microorganisms Eliminated Microbiological Micro Rating PROTECTION LEVEL No. 1 PURIFIER Eliminates Viruses, Bacteria and Giardia.004 PROTECTION LEVEL No. 2 MICROFILTER Eliminates Giardia and Most Bacteria 0.2 to 1.0 PROTECTION LEVEL No. 3 FILTER Eliminates Giardia 1.0 to 4.0 Purifiers: #1 highest safety rating Eliminates Viruses, Bacteria and Giardia, no matter what micron size Microfilters: #2 safety rating Eliminates Giardia and Most Bacteria, depending on their micron size. Filters #3 safety rating Only eliminates Giardia and microorganisms larger than 1 micron.

28. Let There Be Light! Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps Battery Powered Lanterns, Battery Powered Camping Lanterns, Camping Lanterns Emergency Candles / Candle Sticks / Candle Lamps

29. Flashlight accessories, Led Flashlight Accessories Fuel Powered Lanterns & Lamps Battery Powered Lanterns, Battery Powered Camping Lanterns, Camping Lanterns Emergency Candles / Candle Sticks / Candle Lamps Solar Flashlights and Dynamo Self Powered Lights LED Lights / Pocket / Headlamps Power Failure / Rechargeable Lights Chemical Snap Light Sticks, Glow in the Dark Party Lights, Lighting Supplies Batteries / Bulbs / Tubes Duracell® D-cell / C-cell / AA-cell / AAA-cell

30. Let There Be Light! Everything about Flashlights. WHAT? Kind of Flashlight Do I Need There are 3 basic types of flashlights: incandescent, fluorescent, and LED. Each has strengths and weaknesses. but you must clearly decide what function you expect a flashlight to do before buying a battery flashlight, then match the function with type of flashlight. Each light serves a specific purpose and one should buy a light that fits the situation.

31. LIGHT—Incandescent, Fluorescent, LED INCANDESCENT FLASHLIGHTS AND LANTERNS This is the basic, old-fashioned flashlight with incandescent bulb that you probably already have in your car or garage. It comes in several different types, going from least to most bright: general, krypton, halogen, xenon. Industrial quality flashlights to general purpose flashlights can be found in many online camping and hardware stores. As brightness in the light bulb and actual flashlight goes up, so does the price. It might cost you a few dollars more to buy a high quality flashlight, but the better quality and the brighter the flashlight will last longer and provide a higher quality experience. The Coleman Company manufactures many reliable flashlights, they even make a waterproof flashlight and lantern combination. Coleman flashlights are proven by many years of trial in the outdoors. A Coleman waterproof flashlight can save the day if ever a flashlight ends up in the water while fishing or boating. Coleman flashlights are made in various colors like red, green silver, blue and so on. The ever popular Coleman lantern can still be found in many U.S. homes and garages. These Coleman lanterns are very reliable and can last for decades with proper use and care. Remember to buy the coleman brand of battery powered and fuel powered lanterns FLUORESCENT FLASHLIGHT AND LANTERNS a good quality fluorescent lantern or flashlight such as manufactured by eveready, energizer, rayovac, Dorcy, Coleman, Garrity are an excellent choice. A fluorescent lantern or flashlight will produce a wide area of light as needed for camping,, emergency preparedness, household general use, etc. Again when you want to buy the best fluorescent lantern look for the Coleman or energizer brand. A good fluorescent lantern is a must have when power fails in your home and are a great addition to every camping trip. Ambient light for the campsite for relaxing after dinner and using the restroom in a blackout. lightweight and packability are important for backpacking. These lights are the choice. LED FLASHLIGHT AND SPOTLIGHTS. These are the latest trend. An LED flashlight or lantern gives light that can actually be brighter than a conventional flashlight. and the battery life is many times longer, plus the bulbs never burn out or need replacing. LED bulbs can be rough handled without breaking unlike incandescent bulbs. Many companies like The Coleman Company, Dorcy International, Maglite, Garrity and Essential Gear make Great LED flashlights that can be used in industrial, camping, automotive and household use.

32. POWER FAILURE AND RECHARGEABLE LIGHTS Make your home or business a safer place during blackouts with the an Automatic Power-Failure Light. Just plug it into an AC outlet and it automatically turns on when the power goes out. Once electricity is restored, most units shut off and resume recharging. These type of lights can also be used as a portable lighting source, indoors or outdoors, thanks to a rechargeable battery system and built in carry handle. These bright fluorescent, or LED power failure lights offer many hours of operating time. A rechargeable power failure light has been specifically designed with safety in mind. When the power fails, the light immediately turns on, discharging a brilliant incandescent, Krypton or LED beam of light. As a portable flashlight, just unplug it and take it with you in case of an emergency. A must have item in any household or office. All power failure emergency lights automatically turn on when power fails to help guide you to safety. Ordinary nightlights provide comfort in the dark, but they don't have much use when the power goes out. The LED Power- Failure Light is much more than a nightlight: Many of these rechargeable power failure lights contains an LED nightlight with a built-in photo sensor that turns the light on automatically at dusk and off at dawn. It also contains built-in rechargeable batteries that turn the ultra-bright light on automatically if the power goes out, and you can even remove the LED Power-Failure Light from the outlet to use its bright LED flashlight feature. Since many of these power-failure lights uses LEDs, you'll never need to replace the bulbs.

33. Heat, Light and Cooking In An Emergency To conserve your cooking fuel storage needs always do your emergency cooking in the most efficient manner possible. Don’t boil more water than you need, extinguish the fire as soon as you finished, plan your meals ahead of time to consolidate as much cooking as possible, during the winter cook on top of your heating unit while heating your home, and cook in a pressure cooker or other fuel efficient container as much as possible. Keep enough fuel to provide outdoor cooking for at least 7-10 days.

34. Pressure Cooker Cooking It is even possible to cook without using fuel at all. For example, to cook dry beans you can place them inside a pressure cooker with the proper amount of water and other ingredients needed and place it on your heat source until it comes up to pressure. Then turn off the heat, remove the pressure cooker and place inside a large box filled with newspapers, blankets, or other insulating materials. Leave it for two and a half hours and then open it, your meal will be done, having cooked for two and a half hours with no heat. If you don’t have a large box in which to place the pressure cooker, simply wrap it in several blankets and place it in the corner.

35. Matches Store matches in a waterproof airtight tin with each piece of equipment that must be lit with a flame.

36. Sterno Sterno Fuel a jellied petroleum product, is an excellent source of fuel for inclusion in your back pack as part of your 72 hour kit. Sterno is very light weight and easily ignited with a match or a spark from flint and steel but is not explosive. It is also safe for use indoors.

37. Sterno Stove A Sterno Stove can be purchased at any sporting goods store and will retail between $3 and $8, depending upon the model you choose. They fold up into a very small, compact unit ideal for carrying in a pack. The fuel is readily available at all sporting goods stores and many drug stores. One can of Sterno fuel, about the diameter of a can of tuna fish and twice as high, will allow you to cook six meals if used frugally. Chafing dishes and fondue pots can also be used with Sterno.

38. Sterno Concerns Sterno is not without some problems. It will evaporate very easily, even when the lid is securely fastened. If you use Sterno in your 72 hour kit you should check it every six to eight months to insure that it has not evaporated beyond the point of usage. Because of this problem it is not a good fuel for long-term storage. It is a very expensive fuel to use compared to others fuel available, but is extremely convenient and portable.

39. Coleman fuel (white gas) When used with a Coleman stove this another excellent and convenient fuel for cooking. It is not as portable nor as lightweight as Sterno, but produces a much greater BTU value. Like Sterno, Coleman fuel has a tendency to evaporate even when the container is tightly sealed so it is not a good fuel for long-term storage. Unlike Sterno, however, it is highly volatile; it will explode under the right conditions and should therefore never be stored in the home. Because of its highly flammable nature great care should always be exercised when lighting stoves and lanterns that use Coleman fuel. Many serious burns have been caused by carelessness with this product. Always store Coleman fuel in the garage or shed, out of doors.

40. Charcoal Charcoal is the least expensive fuel per BTU that the average family can store. Remember that it must always be used out of doors because of the vast amounts of poisonous carbon monoxide it produces. Charcoal will store for extended period of time if it is stored in air tight containers. It readily absorbs moisture from the surrounding air so do not store it in the paper bags it comes in for more than a few months or it may be difficult to light. Transfer it to airtight metal or plastic containers and it will keep almost forever.

41. Charcoal Fifty or sixty dollars worth of charcoal will provide all the cooking fuel a family will need for an entire year if used sparingly. The best time to buy briquettes inexpensively is at the end of the summer. Broken or torn bags of briquettes are usually sold at a big discount. You will also want to store a small amount of charcoal lighter fluid (or kerosene). Newspapers will also provide an excellent ignition source for charcoal when used in a funnel type of lighting device.

42. Lighting Charcoal with Newspaper To light charcoal using newspapers use two or three sheets, crumpled up, and a #10 tin can. Cut both ends out of the can. Punch holes every two inches around the lower edge of the can with a punch-type can opener (for opening juice cans). Set the can down so the punches holes are on the bottom. Place the crumpled newspaper in the bottom of the can and place the charcoal briquettes on top of the newspaper. Lift the can slightly and light the newspaper. Prop a small rock under the bottom edge of the can to create a a good draft. The briquettes will be ready to use in about 20-30 minutes. When the coals are ready remove the chimney and place them in your cooker. Never place burning charcoal directly on concrete or cement because the heat will crack it. A wheelbarrow or old metal garbage can lid makes an excellent container for this type of fire.

43. Charcoal==40 degrees of heat/briquette One of the nice things about charcoal is that you can regulate the heat you will receive from them. Each briquette will produce about 40 degrees of heat. If you are baking bread, for example, and need 400 degrees of heat for your oven, simply use ten briquettes.

44. Charcoal with a Cardboard Oven To conserve heat and thereby get the maximum heat value from your charcoal you must learn to funnel the heat where you want it rather than letting it dissipate into the air around you. One excellent way to do this is to cook inside a cardboard oven. Take a cardboard box, about the size of an orange crate, and cover it with aluminum foil inside and out. Be sure that the shiny side is visible so that maximum reflectivity is achieved. Turn the box on its side so that the opening is no longer on the top but is on the side. Place some small bricks or other noncombustible material inside upon which you can rest a cookie sheet about two or three inches above the bottom of the box. Place ten burning charcoal briquettes between the bricks (if you need 400 degrees), place the support for your cooking vessels, and then place your bread pans or whatever else you are using on top of the cookie sheet. Prop a foil-covered cardboard lid over the open side, leaving a large crack for air to get in (charcoal needs a lot of air to burn) and bake your bread, cake, cookies, etc. just like you would in your regular oven. Your results will amaze you.

45. Making Your Own Charcoal To make your own charcoal, select twigs, limbs, and branches of fruit, nut and other hardwood trees; black walnuts and peach or apricot pits may also be used. Cut wood into desired size, place in a large can which has a few holes punched in it, put a lid on the can and place the can in a hot fire. When the flames from the holes in the can turn yellow-red, remove the can from the fire and allow it to cool. Store the briquettes in a moisture-proof container. Burn charcoal only in a well-ventilated area.

46. Water storage is important. Having an ample supply of safe, clean water is a top priority in an emergency. A normally active person needs to drink at least two quarts of water each day. Hot environments can double that amount. Children, nursing mothers and ill people will need even more. You will also need water for food preparation and hygiene. Store a total of at least one gallon per person, per day. You should store at least a two-week supply of water for each member of your family. If supplies run low, never ration water. Drink the amount you need today, and try to find more for tomorrow. You can minimize the amount of water your body needs by reducing activity and staying cool.

47. Amount of Water to Store Whereas a quart of water or other fluid daily will sustain life, according to the Department of Defense and the Office of Civil Defense, it is recommended that a gallon of water per day per person be stored for food preparation and drinking. A gallon provides added comfort and accommodates increased fluid needs at higher altitudes or warm climates. An additional one-half to 1 gallon per day is recommended for bathing and hygiene, and to wash dishes. How much water should I store? The rule of thumb is to store at least one gallon per person per day for at least 3 days (for earthquake preparedness). That’s 2 quarts for drinking and 2 quarts for food preparation and sanitation. A family of four should store a minimum of 12 gallons of water. Personally, I recommend at least a 10 day supply of water and a 30 day supply if it all possible.

48. Use the following guidelines when storing water: 1. Store drinking water in carefully cleaned, non-corrosive, tightly covered containers. 2. Store containers in a cool dark place. DO NOT store in direct sunlight. Polyethylene plastics (prepackaged milk and water bottles) are somewhat permeable to hydrocarbon vapors. Keep away from stored gasoline, kerosene, pesticides, or similar substances. 3. Stored tap water should be rotated every 6 months. Prepackaged bottled water should be rotated once a year. Check the pull date on the container. Be sure it didn’t sit on the store’s shelf for a year before you purchased it. Self Serve Bottled Water should be rotated once a year, as long as the water treatment process includes ozonation. 4. Rotate your stored water with the water you use on a regular basis. This practice helps insure you don’t have water stored longer than one year.

49. Containers That Can be Used for Water Storage Food-grade plastic or glass containers are suitable for storing water. One-, three- and five-gallon water containers can be purchased from most outdoor or hardware stores. Any plastic or glass container that previously held food or beverages such as 2-liter soda bottles or water, juice, punch or milk jugs, also may be used. Stainless steel can be used to store water which has not been or will not be treated with chlorine; chlorine is corrosive to most metals. 55 gal drums, designed specifiacally for water storage can be difficult to transport, if the need arises, but are of a tremendous value in an emergency.When looking for additional food grade containers, the bottom will be stamped with HDPE (High Density PolyEthylene) and coded with the recycle symbol and a “2″ inside. HDPE containers are FDA-approved for food. Containers without these designations aren’t OK because of possible chemical interactions between the water and the plastic. Clean used containers and lids with hot soapy water. Once the containers have been thoroughly cleaned, rinse them with water and sanitize the containers and lids by rinsing them with a solution of 1 tablespoon chlorine bleach per gallon of water. Leave the containers wet for two minutes, then rinse them again with water. Remember to remove the paper or plastic lid liners before washing the lids. It is very difficult to effectively remove all residue from many containers, so carefully clean hard-to-reach places like the handles of milk jugs. To sanitize stainless steel containers, place the container in boiling water for 10 minutes. Never use containers that previously held chemicals.

50. Do I Need to Treat Water? Once you properly clean containers, fill them with potable, or safe, drinking water. All public water supplies are already treated and should be free of harmful bacteria. However, as an additional precaution, it is recommended that you add 5-7 drops, about 1/8 teaspoon, of chlorine bleach per gallon of water stored. This precaution protects you against any lingering organisms in storage containers that may have been inadvertently missed during the cleaning process.

51. Where to Store Water Clearly label all water containers “drinking water” with the current date. Store the water in a cool, dry place away from direct sunlight and heat sources. Do not store it near gasoline, kerosene, pesticides or similar substances. When potable water is properly stored, it should have an indefinite shelf life; however, it’s a good idea to use and replace the stored water every 6 - 12 months. Rotating water this way provides you with an opportunity to experiment and check the amount of stored water against what you require. It also serves as an additional precaution against bacteria or viruses growing in containers which may not have been thoroughly or properly cleaned and sanitized. If you have freezer space, storing some water in the freezer is a good idea. If you lose electricity, the frozen water will help keep foods in your freezer frozen until the power is restored. Make sure you leave 2 to 3 inches of space in containers because water expands as it freezes.

52. Emergency Sources of Water In an emergency, if you have not previously stored water and commercial or public sources of water are not available, drain water from your plumbing system. Unless you are advised that the public water supply has been contaminated and is not safe, open the drain valve at the bottom of the water heater and salvage the water stored in the heater. A typical water heater holds 30-60 gallons of water. Discard the first few gallons if they contain rust or sediment. Let the water heater cool before draining it from the heater so it does not scald you. Turn off the electricity or gas to the water heater to prevent the heater from operating without water. Once water has been drained into clean, sanitized containers, add 5-7 drops of chlorine bleach* per gallon of water, and stir or shake the solution to mix it. Let it set 30 minutes before use.

53. Emergency Outdoor Water Sources If you need to find water outside your home, you can use these sources. Be sure to treat the water first. Additional sources include: Rainwater Streams, rivers and other moving bodies of water Ponds and lakes Natural springs Avoid water with floating material, an odor or dark color. Use saltwater only if you distill it first. You should not drink flood water.

54. Hidden Water Sources in Your Home If a disaster catches you without a stored supply of clean water, you can use the water in your hot-water tank, pipes and ice cubes. As a last resort, you can use water in the reservoir tank of your toilet (not the bowl). Do you know the location of your incoming water valve? You’ll need to shut it off to stop contaminated water from entering your home if you hear reports of broken water or sewage lines. To use the water in your pipes, let air into the plumbing by turning on the faucet in your house at the highest level. A small amount of water will trickle out. Then obtain water from the lowest faucet in the house. To use the water in your hot-water tank, be sure the electricity or gas is off, and open the drain at the bottom of the tank. Start the water flowing by turning off the water intake valve and turning on a hot-water faucet. Do not turn on the gas or electricity when the tank is empty.

55. When and How to Treat Water for Storage In an emergency, if you do not have water that you know is safe, it’s possible to purify water for drinking. Start with the cleanest water you can find and treat with one of the following methods:

56. Boiling and chlorinating: Water can be purified by boiling. Boiling times may vary from state to state, depending on altitude. In Colorado, the water is safe to use once after it has been boiled for three to five minutes and has cooled. If you plan to store boiled water, pour it into clean, sanitized containers and let it cool to room temperature. Then add 5-7 drops, or 1/8 teaspoon, of chlorine bleach* per gallon of water (1/2 teaspoon per 5 gallons). Stir or shake the solution to mix it. Cap the containers and store them in a cool, dry place.

57. Filtering and chlorinating: You can filter water if you have a commercial or backpack filter that filters to 1 micron. These are available in sporting good stores and are recommended for use when back-packing. They are not recommended to clean large volumes of water. Filtering eliminates parasites such as giardia and cryptosporidium, but it may not eliminate all bacteria and viruses. Therefore, it’s recommended that 5-7 drops (1/8 teaspoon) of chlorine bleach* be added per gallon of filtered water (1/2 teaspoon for 5 gallons). Stir or shake the solution to mix it. Wait 30 minutes before using the water, or cap the containers and store them in a cool, dry place.

58. Bleach Use liquid household bleach that contains 5.25 percent hypochlorite. Do not use bleaches with fresheners or scents as they may not be safe to consume. The above treatment methods use a two-step approach so less bleach is needed, yet giardia and cryptosporidium are destroyed through boiling or eliminated by filtering. Chlorine may not be effective against these parasites. Since adding too much chlorine to water can be harmful, it’s important to be as accurate as possible when measuring.

59. Distillation Distillation involves boiling water and then collecting the vapor that condenses back to water. The condensed vapor will not include salt and other impurities. To distill, fill a pot halfway with water. Tie a cup to the handle on the pot’s lid so that the cup will hang right-side-up when the lid is upside-down (make sure the cup is not dangling into the water) and boil the water for 20 minutes. The water that drips from the lid into the cup is distilled.

60. Most water filtration devices are designed for use on microbiologically safe water. Don’t assume they are safe to use on contaminated water. Check with the manufacturer to be sure. Filtration Equipment Safe on Microbiologically Contaminated Water? Carbon FilterNo Reverse OsmosisNo Deionization FilterNo PitcherNo Faucet Mount FilterNo Steam DistillerYes-but it requires electricity UV SterilizerYes-but it requires electricity Ceramic FilterSome-but only if rated for bacterial Equipment that is safe to use on contaminated water is often slow, costly, inconvenient and/or high maintenance. It makes the most sense to use the filtration equipment that best meets your normal daily needs and shift to water storage or alternative methods of water treatment in times of emergencies.

61. Sanitation and Hygiene in an Emergency The lack of sanitation facilities Following a major disaster can quickly create secondary problems unless basic guidelines are followed.

62. Do not flush the toilet… If the water lines are damaged or if damage is suspected, do not flush the toilet. Avoid digging holes in the ground and using these. Untreated raw sewage can pollute fresh ground water supplies. It also attracts flies and promotes the spread of diseases.

63. A Toilet by any other name-- Store a large supply of heavy-duty plastic bags, twist ties, disinfectant, and toilet paper A good disinfectant that is easy to use is a solution of 1 part liquid bleach to 10 parts water. Dry bleach is caustic and not safe for this type of use. If the toilet is NOT able to be flushed, it can still be used. This is less stressful for most people than using some other container. Remove all the bowl water. Line it with a heavy-duty plastic bag. When finished, add a small amount of deodorant or disinfectant, securely tie the bag, and dispose of it in a large trash can with a tight fitting lid. This large trash can should also be lined with a sturdy trash bag. Eventually, the city will provide a means to dispose of these bags. Portable camp toilets, small trash cans or sturdy buckets lined with heavy-duty plastic bags can also be used. Those with tight fitting lids are best.

64. Tips for Staying Clean in an Emergency Situation As much as possible, continue regular hygiene habits such as brushing your teeth, washing your face, combing your hair and even washing your body with a wet washcloth. This will help prevent the spread of disease and irritation as well as help relieve stress. Keep your fingers out of your mouth. Avoid handling food with your hands. Purify your drinking water. Use chlorine bleach, purification tablets (check bottle for expiration dates), or by boiling for 10 minutes. Sterilize your eating utensils by heat. You can also rinse dishes in purified water that has additional chlorine bleach added to it. (Use 2 1/2 teaspoons bleach per gallon of purified water.) Keep your clothing as clean and dry as possible, especially under-clothing and socks.

65. If you have stomach problems, be sure to drink plenty of fluids and get plenty of rest. If, during an emergency situation, you develop vomiting or diarrhea, rest and stop eating solid foods until the symptoms ease up. Take fluids, particularly water, in small amounts at frequent intervals. As soon as can be tolerated,resume eating semi-solid foods. Normal salt intake should be maintained.

66. Keep Basic Hygiene Supplies Handy (Remember your Go pack and your car.) Cornstarch Fingernail clippers and files Sanitary napkins Insect repellent Toilet paper Moistened Towelettes or Baby Wipes A few bath towels Small hand-held mirror Liquid all-purpose soap Vaseline Petroleum Jelly Liquid Chlorine Bleach Ammonia (disinfecting aid)

67. Emergency Sewage Disposal Water flush toilets cannot be used when water service is interrupted. The water remaining in the fixture is not sufficient to flush the wastes down the sewer. Clogging may result and your living conditions then become just that much more uncomfortable. Even if water is available, local authorities may ask you not to use flush toilets, wash basins, and other fixtures connected with soil pipes. The sewer mains may be broken or clogged, which would make it impossible to carry off such waste; or water may be needed for fire fighting or other emergencies. It is necessary for every family to know emergency methods of waste disposal in case such conditions arise. Failure to properly dispose of human wastes can lead to epidemics of such diseases as typhoid, dysentery, and diarrhea. At the same time, sewage must be disposed of in ways that will prevent contamination of water supplies used for drinking, cooking, bathing, laundering, and other domestic purposes. Here are simple steps that any family can take to prevent such dangers and discomforts.

68. Temporary Toilet Provisions Right after an emergency, or during one, you will probably not have the time and tools to prepare a complex emergency sanitation system. If there is a delay of several days in restoring sewage service to your neighborhood, you may find that disposal is a big problem. Your first task is to make some temporary toilet provision for your family, especially the children. Almost any covered metal or plastic container will do. You can use a covered pail, a 5-gallon bucket, or a small kitchen garbage container with a foot operated cover for an emergency toilet. Anything that has a cover and will hold the contents until you can dispose of them will serve for sanitary purposes at first.

69. Emergency Sewage Storage Keep on the premises at least one extra 10-gallon garbage can or other waterproof container with a tight fitting cover. This should be lined with paper and/or a plastic bag. And the lid should be fastened to the can to prevent its loss. Such a can may be used for the emergency storage of body wastes until the public sewage system can be put back into action, or until other arrangements can be made. Empty your emergency toilet into this storage can as often as necessary. A small amount of household disinfectant should be added after each use. If you live in an apartment, you may not have a large garbage can or room to keep one. In that case, two smaller covered pails or other containers will do just as well.

70. Controlling Odors and Insects Insecticides and deodorants should be used when necessary to control odors and insects breeding in containers that cannot be emptied immediately. At least 2 pints of household bleach solution should be kept on hand for disinfecting purposes.

71. Other Supplies Keep on hand an extra supply of toilet tissue, plus a supply of sanitary napkins. If there is illness in the house that requires rubber sheeting or other special sanitary equipment, make sure that adequate supplies are available. At least a week’s accumulation of daily newspapers will come in handy for insulating bedding from floors, and lining clothes against cold, as well as for the sanitary uses already mentioned. You should have sufficient grocery bags on hand for possible emergencies. A supply of old newspapers will come in handy for other sanitary uses also, such as wrapping garbage and lining larger containers.

72. Babies If you have a baby in your home, you may find diaper laundering a problem under emergency conditions. It is best to keep an ample supply of disposable diapers on hand for emergency use. Or, any moisture resistant material can be cut and folded to diaper size and lined with absorbent material.

73. Keeping Food Safe During an Emergency Always keep meat, poultry, fish, and eggs refrigerated at or below 40 °F and frozen food at or below 0 °F. This may be difficult when the power is out.

74. Keep the refrigerator and freezer doors closed as much as possible to maintain the cold temperature. The refrigerator will keep food safely cold for about 4 hours if it is unopened. A full freezer will hold the temperature for approximately 48 hours (24 hours if it is half full) if the door remains closed. Obtain dry or block ice to keep your refrigerator as cold as possible if the power is going to be out for a prolonged period of time. Fifty pounds of dry ice should hold an 18-cubic foot full freezer for 2 days. Plan ahead and know where dry ice and block ice can be purchased.

75. Be prepared for an emergency...... by having items on hand that don’t require refrigeration and can be eaten cold or heated on the outdoor grill. Shelf-stable food, boxed or canned milk, water, and canned goods should be part of a planned emergency food supply. Make sure you have ready-to- use baby formula for infants and pet food. Remember to use these items and replace them from time to time. Be sure to keep a hand-held can opener for an emergency.

76. Coolers are a great help for keeping food cold if the power will be out for more than 4 hours—have a couple on hand along with frozen gel packs. When your freezer is not full, keep items close together—this helps the food stay cold longer.

77. Digital, dial, or instant-read food thermometers and appliance thermometers will help you know if the food is at safe temperatures. Keep appliance thermometers in the refrigerator and freezer at all times. When the power is out, an appliance thermometer will always indicate the temperature in the refrigerator and freezer no matter how long the power has been out. The refrigerator temperature should be 40 °F or below; the freezer, 0 °F or lower. If you’re not sure a particular food is cold enough, take its temperature with a food thermometer.

78. Q.Flood waters covered our food stored on shelves and in cabinets. What can I keep and what should I throw out? A.Do not eat any food that may have come into contact with flood water. Discard any food that is not in a waterproof container if there is any chance that it has come into contact with flood water. Food containers that are not waterproof include those with screw-caps, snap lids, pull tops, and crimped caps. Also, discard cardboard juice/milk/baby formula boxes and home canned foods if they have come in contact with flood water, because they cannot be effectively cleaned and sanitized. Inspect canned foods and discard any food in damaged cans. Can damage is shown by swelling, leakage, punctures, holes, fractures, extensive deep rusting, or crushing/denting severe enough to prevent normal stacking or opening with a manual, wheel-type can opener.

79. Steps to Salvage All-Metal Cans and Retort Pouches Undamaged, commercially prepared foods in all-metal cans and retort pouches (for example, flexible, shelf- stable juice or seafood pouches) can be saved if you do the following: Remove the labels, if they are the removable kind, since they can harbor dirt and bacteria. Thoroughly wash the cans or retort pouches with soap and water, using hot water if it is available. Brush or wipe away any dirt or silt. Rinse the cans or retort pouches with water that is safe for drinking, if available, since dirt or residual soap will reduce the effectiveness of chlorine sanitation.

80. Then, sanitize them by immersion in one of the two following ways: Place in water and allow the water to come to a boil and continue boiling for 2 minutes, or Place in a freshly made solution consisting of 1 tablespoon of unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water available) for 15 minutes. Air-dry cans or retort pouches for a minimum of 1 hour before opening or storing. If the labels were removable, then re-label your cans or retort pouches, including the expiration date (if available), with a marker. Food in reconditioned cans or retort pouches should be used as soon as possible, thereafter. Any concentrated baby formula in reconditioned, all-metal containers must be diluted with clean, drinking water.

81. Q.How should I clean my pots, pans, dishes, and utensils? A.Thoroughly wash metal pans, ceramic dishes, and utensils (including can openers) with soap and water, using hot water if available. Rinse and then sanitize them by boiling in clean water or immersing them for 15 minutes in a solution of 1 tablespoon of unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water available).

82. Q.How should I clean my countertops? A.Thoroughly wash countertops with soap and water, using hot water if available. Rinse and then sanitize them by applying a solution of 1 tablespoon of unscented, liquid chlorine bleach per gallon of drinking water (or the cleanest, clearest water available). Allow to air-dry.

83. Q.We had a fire in our home and I am worried about what food I can keep and what to throw away. A.Discard food that has been near a fire. Food exposed to fire can be damaged by the heat of the fire, smoke fumes, and chemicals used to fight the fire. Food in cans or jars may appear to be okay, but the heat from a fire can activate food spoilage bacteria. If the heat is extreme, the cans or jars themselves can split or rupture, rendering the food unsafe. One of the most dangerous elements of a fire is sometimes not the fire itself, but toxic fumes released from burning materials. Discard any raw food or food in permeable packaging—cardboard, plastic wrap, screw-topped jars, bottles, etc.—stored outside the refrigerator. Food stored in refrigerators or freezers can also become contaminated by fumes.

84. Q.A snowstorm knocked down the power lines, can I put the food from the refrigerator and freezer out in the snow? A.No, frozen food can thaw if it is exposed to the sun's rays even when the temperature is very cold. Refrigerated food may become too warm and foodborne bacteria could grow. The outside temperature could vary hour by hour and the temperature outside will not protect refrigerated and frozen food. Additionally, perishable items could be exposed to unsanitary conditions or to animals. Animals may harbor bacteria or disease; never consume food that has come in contact with an animal. Rather than putting the food outside, consider taking advantage of the cold temperatures by making ice. Fill buckets, empty milk cartons or cans with water and leave them outside to freeze. Then put the homemade ice in your refrigerator, freezer, or coolers.

85. Q.Some of my food in the freezer started to thaw or had thawed when the power came back on. Is the food safe? How long will the food in the refrigerator be safe with the power off? A.Never taste food to determine its safety! You will have to evaluate each item separately. If an appliance thermometer was kept in the freezer, read the temperature when the power comes back on. If the appliance thermometer stored in the freezer reads 40 °F or below, the food is safe and may be refrozen. If a thermometer has not been kept in the freezer, check each package of food to determine the safety. Remember you can’t rely on appearance or odor. If the food still contains ice crystals or is 40 °F or below, it is safe to refreeze. Refrigerated food should be safe as long as power is out no more than 4 hours. Keep the door closed as much as possible. Discard any perishable food (such as meat, poultry, fish, eggs, and leftovers) that have been above 40 °F for 2 hours.

86. Q.May I refreeze the food in the freezer if it thawed or partially thawed? A.Yes, the food may be safely refrozen if the food still contains ice crystals or is at 40 °F or below. You will have to evaluate each item separately. Be sure to discard any items in either the freezer or the refrigerator that have come into contact with raw meat juices. Partial thawing and refreezing may reduce the quality of some food, but the food will remain safe to eat.

87. How Long Should Canned Foods Be Kept? Store canned foods and other shelf-stable products in a cool, dry place. Never put them above the stove, under the sink, in a damp garage or basement, or any place exposed to high or low temperature extremes. Store high-acid foods, such as tomatoes and other fruit, up to 18 months. Low-acid foods, such as meat and vegetables, can be kept 2 to 5 years. While extremely rare, a toxin produced by Clostridium botulinum is the worst danger in canned foods. NEVER USE food from containers that show signs of botulism: leaking, bulging, rusting, or badly dented cans; cracked jars; jars with loose or bulging lids; canned food with a foul odor; or any container that spurts liquid when opening. DO NOT TASTE THIS FOOD! Even the tiniest amount of botulinum toxin can be deadly.

88. SAFETY FIRST! Ventilation: –Do not burn anything larger than candles in your home without providing adequate ventilation to the outside. All heaters, except electric heaters, should be vented to provide oxygen and to safely remove exhaust fumes, gases and smoke. Generators: –Do not ever operate generators indoors, not even in the garage. Operate them outside and connect them to your appliances via cables. There are also ways to connect them directly to your home's electric system, thereby allowing you to run all your appliances as you usually would. Ask a professional for guidance, if this is your choice. Fumes: –Toxic gases present a serious danger when there is insufficient ventilation. For safety, provide cross ventilation by opening a window an inch on each side of a room.

89. Safety First Someone should always be awake: –During these crises situations, it's best to have one person stay awake to watch for fire and to detect other problems, such as fumes. Drowsiness is one sign of carbon monoxide poisoning. If the "watch person" feels sleepy, it may be a sign of poor ventilation. Introducing fresh air into the room may be life-saving. Prepare for Fire Fighting: –Set up some firefighting items near your emergency heating device. Dry powder fire extinguishers will put out most types of burning materials. Sand, salt, baking soda or water can be used on most non-oil materials. A tarpaulin or heavy blanket can be used for smothering flames. Post your local fire department's telephone number near your telephone. Discuss emergency procedures with all members of your family: –Finally, discuss safety, firefighting techniques and a home evacuation plan with all members of your family.

90. Insulate Your Home From the Cold: The first step is to insulate everything the best you can to keep as much heat as possible inside the house. Seal cracks around doors and windows with towels and blankets. At Home Depot you can buy window sealing tapes that you wrap around windows and blow dry to vacuum- seal.

91. Limit the area to be heated: Select a space on the "warm" side of the house, away from prevailing cold winds. It's best to avoid rooms with large windows or uninsulated walls. Interior rooms, such as inside bathrooms or closets, probably have the lowest heat loss. Your basement may be another great option in cold weather, because of the heat gain from the earth. Isolate the room from the rest of the house by keeping doors closed, hanging bedding, heavy drapes, blankets or towels over entryways or erecting temporary partitions of cardboard or plywood. Hang drapes, bedding, shower curtains, and such other insulating items over doors and windows.

92. Explore alternative heating methods to electric heat: Examples would be gas ranges or fireplaces (below listed are more options). The least desirable solutions are makeshift heaters, such as charcoal burning grills, camp stoves, kerosene heaters or industrial-type oil heaters. If you must use them, do so only with plenty of ventilation. Below is a listing of alternative heating options - but first consider the following.

93. Camping Stores are a wonderful place to find gadgets that will take you through these crises times

94. Generators: If you have a generator, obtain fuel. DO NOT store fuels in heated areas. This is particularly true for highly combustible items such as gasoline and kerosene, or even paper. When in use, generators need to be kept OUTDOORS with cables leading into the house and to the appliances they are powering up. It is deadly to operator generators indoors.

95. Portable Power System: A powerinverter can be a lifesaver if you need to heat up formula for your baby or chicks, or have to power up an incubator or hospital cage during a electric outage. This is a small electrical device that converts DC current, from a car cigarette lighter or a battery, into 110 AC current. It enables you to use a common electrical device or appliance in your car or any place that has access to a 12 volt battery. Powerinverters can be purchased in a computer store, camping / recreation vehicle stores, in marine supply stores or online - some of them are featured to the right. They cost from $50, for a simple 100 watt unit, up to several hundred dollars for large units that will enable you to use electric appliances and provide power for up to 24 hours.

96. Oil Lamps: It is generally not recommended to use oil lamps around birds. However, you can use them in other rooms, as long as the birds are not exposed to any fumes.

97. Fire Places: If wood logs aren't available, paper "logs" can be made by rolling newspapers or magazines tightly into small log-sized bundles, which can be burned if they are stacked to allow proper air circulation. If the situation gets critical, other burnable wood can be considered, including lumber and even furniture

98. Gas or Charcoal Grills: For cooking your food, a grill is a great option during an electric outage; however, do not ever use a grill indoors unless it is an indoor grill. Carbon Monoxide is a byproduct of burning charcoal - and in an enclosed environment, it is a deadly gas. To warm up the house, you can heat bricks or even rocks on the grill. These hold heat for quite a while.

99. Helpful Tips to Keep Warm: "Green" Heat: –Great for Outside Flights / Aviaries: Susanne Russo recommends: "A simple and cheap heater can be made by taking any leaves from the yard as well as kitchen table scraps and like items. Place them in a double layer trash bag, wet the contents until they are slightly damp, then tie the bag closed. Put it in a trash can with a lid. This is my emergency heater for cold weather. The stuff in the bag starts composting and in several hours starts building up heat. Within 24 hours, it can almost get hot to the touch, and will radiate heat for a few days. If you have outside aviaries, place the closed trash can in your flights and it will radiate some heat. Another thing that can be used to get the leaves and compost heating up quicker is Compost Starter, which can be found at some nursery and garden supplies." –Solar Heat: An appreciable amount of heat can be gained through large windows on the southern side of the house.

100. Heat Packs / Hand Pocket Warmers: Wrap your pet cages / carriers on the top and 3 sides with bubble wrap or thick towels / blankets. If you use bubble wrap, make sure the bubbles face away from the cage. Most drug store carry heat packs that you "snap" to activate the heating element. Wrap a couple of them in towels and place them on the bottom of the cage. Make sure your bird can't get in direct contact with the heat pack (or chew on it as contents are toxic). These heat packs / hand pocket warmers can usually be found in the "camping" section of your local drug store and are really recommended for such emergencies. They only cost a dollar or so and work well for small areas.

101. Heated Bricks (Please also see below: Gas or Charcoal Grills): If you have a gas oven or fireplace, you can heat bricks up to a high temperature. If you have an electric oven and expect a power outage, you can warm the bricks up as a precaution. Remove the bricks when they are warm, but still touchable. Bricks hold warmth for a long time, sometimes days. You can wrap these bricks in towels and warm up your bed or place them under your bird's carrier / cage.

102. Hot water: Filling your bathtub with hot water will help if your power isn't out for long.

103. Tips about Safely Heating Your Home: Teflon: Some space heaters may have Teflon coating on some of its parts, which is toxic to birds when over-heated and can have detrimental effects on our own health..

104. Fireplaces: Gas fireplaces come in two varieties-vented and ventless. The vented varieties tend to be the safest, as new air is drawn into the room and potentially harmful gasses are expelled to the outside. "Fake" ventless fireplaces have been outlawed in several U.S. states and in Canada. They should never be installed in bedrooms or small / poorly vented homes. Ventless fireplaces generate a lot of carbon monoxide that accumulates inside the house -- presenting a risk to humans and animals. Wood-burning fireplaces are said to be safe around birds, as long as you are burning UNTREATED wood, the flu is completely open, and you have a screen in front of the fire.

105. Natural gas space heaters are generally safe, and most often have a vent of some sort. These kinds use a catalytic process to convert the carbon monoxide (CO) generated by burning gasses into harmless water vapor. Bad gasses are vented to the outside world. The process generates a lot of humidity, so make sure that there is sufficient air exchange to prevent mold and mildew from growing.

106. Conventional propane gas space heaters: are usually safe (verify with the manufacturer of your heater).

107. Electric Heaters: Always let them run outside or in the garage on high for a day or so to burn off any oils or contaminants before using them indoors. Click here to view some recommended heaters for your home.Click here

108. Kerosene Heaters: Are notorious for generating carbon monoxide and other toxic substances. In addition to which, they cause many house fires each year. It's best to avoid kerosene in your home.

109. General Recommendation: Whatever heating system you use, it is best to install a carbon monoxide detector to warn you if carbon monoxide levels rise above safe levels. Heaters require regular maintenance to make sure they continue to operate properly and safely. If you are using gas or oil heating systems, an annual furnace inspection is recommended to minimize risk to your family, your pets and your home.