1. Chapter 12
Garde Manger
Salads • Salad Greens • Preparing and Storing Salad Greens • Additional Salad Ingredients • Salad Dressings • Salad Varieties • Cheese • Cheese Preparation and Storage • Cold Foods Presentation

2. Salads can be categorized according to when they are served in a meal.
Salads are a popular menu item, with limitless possible combinations of flavors and ingredients. Salads can contain raw or partially cooked ingredients and can be served hot or cold. They do not necessarily contain lettuce, although many do. Salads typically are served with a salad dressing, which can be sweet, savory, or a combination of both. Salads can be served as an appetizer, a main course, a side salad, a separate course, or a dessert, depending on the ingredients used. See Figure 12-1.

3. Common types of lettuce include butterhead, iceberg, romaine, and leaf.
Lettuce varieties of salad greens are tender and fragile, and should be kept covered when refrigerated. The most common varieties of lettuce are butterhead, iceberg, romaine, and leaf. See Figure Blends of different lettuce varieties are also popular and available premixed and prewashed. Blends of young field greens such as mesclun and microgreens are also popular.

4. Chicory is a hearty, flavorful, and slightly bitter variety of leafy vegetable that comes in many colors and shapes.
Chicory is a hearty, flavorful, and slightly bitter variety of leafy vegetable. It comes in many colors from various shades of green to yellow, red, or rusty brown. Chicory also comes in different shapes from thick, torpedo-shaped bulbs to long, thin, weedlike leaves. Common varieties of chicory include Belgian endive, curly endive, escarole, radicchio, and Chinese cabbage. See Figure 12-3.

5. Greens used in salads also include leafy vegetables such as spinach, watercress, and arugula.
In addition to lettuce and chicory, other green leafy vegetables such as spinach, watercress, and arugula are commonly used in salads to add flavor, texture, and color. See Figure These other greens are more intense in flavor than the traditional lettuce varieties so they are used sparingly and only added in small quantities to salads.

6. Herbs and edible flowers can be added to salads for additional flavor, aroma, and color.
Other items such as fresh herbs and edible flowers can be added to salads for an interesting flavor and colorful appearance. See Figure The leaves of fresh herbs such as basil, cilantro, chives, dill, mint, oregano, parsley, sage, and savory can be included in fresh salads to add flavor, but should not be overpowering. Small leaves can be added whole, but larger leaves should be torn or cut chiffonade. Stems should be discarded.

7. Salad greens are rinsed in clean, cold water until dirt no longer collects at the bottom of the sink.
To wash salad greens, apply the following procedure:
1. Cut or tear greens to appropriate size. See Figure 12-6.
2. Fill a clean and sanitized sink with cold water.
3. Submerge greens completely in the cold water.
4. Gently stir greens to rinse. Remove greens from the dirty water prior to draining the sink.
5. Rinse sink out completely and refill with cold water. Repeat steps 3 through 5 until no dirt is felt on the bottom of the sink.
6. Remove greens from water and spin in a salad spinner to dry.
7. Store in a pan with a perforated pan insert and cover with a damp paper towel or plastic wrap until needed.

8. A salad spinner dries leafy greens using centrifugal force.
All salad greens must be dried completely after washing. Wet greens become limp in a short amount of time, whereas dried greens remain crisp for a longer period of time. Also, oil-based vinaigrettes or mayonnaise-based dressings do not stick to wet leaves. Salad dressing clings best to the surface of dry leaves. Using a salad spinner is the best way to dry lettuce, as the spinning of the internal basket (centrifugal force) throws water from the leaves without damaging them. See Figure 12-7.

9. The core is removed from head lettuce before washing and cutting the lettuce.
To remove the core from a solidly packed head of lettuce, apply the following procedure:
1. Hold the head of lettuce in the palm of one hand with the core facing down. See Figure 12-8.
2. Carefully hit the core end of the head against a clean work surface to free the core from the rest of the head.
3. Grab the core and pull to remove it from the head.

10. A head of romaine lettuce is cut lengthwise and crosswise into pieces of desired size.
To prepare romaine lettuce, apply the following procedure:
1. Trim any damaged leaf tips with a stainless steel French knife and remove any discolored or bruised outer leaves. See Figure 12-9.
2. Make two or three lengthwise cuts along the head with a French knife, leaving the base intact to hold the leaves.
3. Cut crosswise at 1″ to 1 1/2″ intervals to produce bite-size pieces.
4. Wash, dry, and store leaves according to standard procedure.

11. Remove the center rib of loose-packed greens before washing.
To remove the rib from loosely packed greens, apply the following procedure:
1. Fold each leaf in half so that the two sides of the top surface meet, exposing the bottom of the leaf. See Figure
2. With the other hand, pinch the thick stem and rib and carefully pull from the leaf to remove and discard.
3. Cut, wash, dry, and store leaves according to standard procedures.

12. In addition to leafy greens, salads may include vegetables, proteins, starches, fruits, and nuts.
The combination of ingredients that can be used in a salad is bound only by a chef’s imagination. However, it is important to remember that a salad should complement other courses. The most common ingredients used in salads are vegetables, proteins, starches, fruits, and nuts. See Figure

13. An emulsion is a uniform mixture of two typically unmixable liquids, such as oil and vinegar.
An emulsion is a mixture of two typically unmixable liquids (such as oil and water) that are forced to bond with each other to result in a creamy, smooth product with a uniform appearance. See Figure A temporary emulsion is a temporary mixture of two typically unmixable liquids that eventually separate into their original state when allowed to rest. Whisking oil and vinegar together creates a temporary emulsion in a basic French vinaigrette. As the oil and vinegar are whisked together rapidly, the oil is broken into tiny droplets that are then surrounded with a coating of vinegar. If the mixture of oil and vinegar is allowed to rest, it eventually separates back to a pool of oil floating on a pool of vinegar.

14. A basic French vinaigrette is a temporary emulsion of oil and vinegar combined with seasonings and flavorings that can be used to season entrées as well as salads.
In a basic French vinaigrette, the ratio of oil to vinegar is 3:1, or three parts oil to one part vinegar. When using intensely flavored oil, less than three parts oil is recommended to balance the flavors of vinegar and oil. When preparing a citrus vinaigrette, where half or more of the vinegar is replaced with a citrus juice, less than three parts oil is needed. Also, if mildly flavored vinegar such as an aged balsamic is used, less than three parts oil is needed. Because a basic French vinaigrette is a temporary emulsion, it must be stirred thoroughly or shaken again before dressing a salad or being served separately. The acid in a vinaigrette can balance the fattiness of some dishes and can liven up the overall flavor of a dish. A vinaigrette can be served over broiled or grilled fish, seafood, vegetables, and poultry. See Figure

15. Seasonings and flavorings are added to the vinegar (or other acid) before oil is incorporated.
To prepare a basic French vinaigrette, apply the following procedure:
1. Carefully select a vinegar (or other acid) and an oil that will pair well with each other and that complement the item they are intended to dress. See Figure
2. Place seasonings, any flavoring ingredients, and vinegar in a mixing bowl and whisk to incorporate.
3. Slowly add the oil in a fine stream while whisking continuously to form a temporary emulsion.
4. Let vinaigrette rest an hour or two to marry the flavors.
5. Whisk as needed to incorporate oil and vinegar prior to use.

16. Egg yolks are used to create a permanent emulsion in an emulsified vinaigrette.
To prepare an emulsified vinaigrette, apply the following procedure:
1. Collect all ingredients and allow to sit at room tem-perature for 1 hr prior to preparation. See Figure
2. Place pasteurized yolks or whole eggs in a mixing bowl and whisk until foamy and light.
3. Add all dry ingredients and any flavoring ingredients to egg and whisk to incorporate.
4. Add about one-fourth of the liquid ingredients and whisk well to incorporate.
5. While whisking rapidly, carefully begin adding the oil very slowly in a fine stream until a smooth emulsion forms.
6. Continue to add the oil slowly in a fine stream until it begins to get thicker. Then begin adding a little more of the liquid, alternating with the oil until all of the ingredients are incorporated and emulsified. Note: It is important that the dressing is whisked rapidly the entire time so that the oil and vinegar are not allowed to separate.
…Complete procedural list on page 366.

17. Mayonnaise is the foundation for many popular salad dressings.
To prepare a mayonnaise, apply the following procedure:
1. Collect all ingredients and allow to sit at room tem-perature for 1 hr prior to preparation. See Figure
2. In a stainless steel or other nonreactive mixing bowl, whisk seasonings and half of the vinegar into the yolks until light-colored, airy, and foamy.
3. Add oil very slowly (a drop at a time), until the emulsion begins to form and the mixture thickens slightly.
4. Once about 1/4 of the oil has been added, increase addition of the oil, adding the oil in a fine stream while whisking rapidly and continuously to incor-porate.
5. As the mixture becomes thick and hard to whisk, add a small amount of vinegar to thin slightly.
6. Continue alternating vinegar and oil while whisking until all the oil and vinegar have been added.
7. Check and adjust seasonings as necessary.
8. Transfer the mayonnaise into a chilled storage container and refrigerate until needed.

18. In a tossed salad, leafy greens are tossed with vegetables and a dressing.
A tossed salad is a mixture of leafy greens such as lettuce, chicory, spinach, or fresh herbs other items such as meats, vegetables, fruits, nuts, cheese, and/or croutons, and served with a dressing. There are endless combinations of ingredients that can be used in con-structing tossed salads, but care should be taken to use ingredients with complementary flavors and textures. A dressing should be chosen that does not overpower or conflict with the ingredients. See Figure

19. Tossed salads should be prepared just prior to serving.
To make a tossed salad, apply the following procedure:
1. Select a few varieties of leafy greens so the salad will be colorful and have a variety of textures and flavors. See Figure
2. Cut, wash, dry, and store greens according to the standard procedure until ready for use.
3. Prepare any garnishes or additional ingredients that will be added to the salad. Store properly until needed.
4. Prepare the appropriate salad dressing, remem-bering that hearty greens can pair well with lighter or heavier dressings, while delicate greens require a lighter dressing.
5. Carefully combine the greens, additional ingred-ients, and dressing in a mixing bowl and toss gently to coat distribute all components evenly.
6. Serve the appropriate portion size as quickly as possible, as dressing speeds up wilting of the greens.

20. Composed salads have a base, body, garnish, and dressing.
A composed salad is a salad consisting of a base, body, garnish, and dressing carefully composed and arranged attractively on a plate. See Figure The base of a composed salad serves as the foundation on which a salad is built. The base is not only an edible component of the salad, but a colorful liner between the rest of the salad and the plate. A base typically is a bed of salad greens, fruit, or vegetables. Often a base is a cup-shaped leaf in which the rest of the ingredients can be placed, resulting in a beautiful presentation.

21. A bound salad is composed of a main ingredient, flavoring ingredients, sea-sonings, and a binding agent.
A bound salad is a combination of a main item, flavoring ingredients, and seasonings held together with a binding agent. See Figure Many types of ingredients can be used for the main item in a bound salad including cooked meats, seafood, poultry, hard-cooked eggs, potatoes, pastas, grains, vegetables, fruits, or legumes. Minced chives, onions, and celery are often used as flavoring ingredients, and mayonnaise is used most often as the binding agent. Other binding agents include vinaigrettes, yogurt, and creamy dressings. Popular bound salads include chicken salad, tuna salad, potato salad, and kidney bean salad. Bound salads can be served in many forms including the following:
• the body of a composed salad, such as a tomato half stuffed with crab salad
• a sandwich filling, such as tuna salad served on a toasted bun
• a side dish such as potato salad

22. Vegetable salads can be made with raw or cooked vegetables.
Vegetable salads are salads that are primarily composed of vegetables. Vegetables used in vegetable salads may be either precooked or raw. Beet salad, cauliflower salad, and green bean salads are examples of cooked vegetable salads where the vegetables are blanched in heavily salted water, refreshed in ice water, and drained well prior to use. Raw vegetable salads are popular because of the freshness of the ingredients. Coleslaw, cucumber and onion, and carrot and raisin salads are examples of raw vegetable salads. See Figure

23. Fresh fruit salads should be prepared just prior to service to ensure freshness.
Fruit salads can be prepared from fresh, canned, or frozen fruits. See Figure Some fruit salads can be mixed and tossed with success, but most depend on arranging the fruit in an attractive manner, as in a composed salad. Fruit salads are fragile, can discolor rapidly, and become soft when fruit is cut and exposed to air too far in advance. They should be prepared as close to serving time as possible and served well chilled.

24. A gelatin salad is made from flavored gelatin formed in a mold.
Another salad variety is the gelatin salad. A gelatin salad is a salad made from flavored gelatin formed in a mold. Gelatin salads can be presented in many different forms, offer a variety of colors, and are easy and inexpensive to prepare. See Figure Cut-up fruit or vegetables or grated cheese can be mixed in and suspended in the gelatin before it sets. Fresh fruit floats and canned fruit sinks in gelatin.

25. Fresh cheeses such as feta, mozzarella, and Mascarpone do not age well and should be used immediately.
Fresh cheeses are usually not aged or allowed to ripen, as they spoil easily. Cheese varieties in this category include feta, mozzerella, Mascarpone, cottage cheese, ricotta, cream cheese, Neufchâtel, chèvre frais, and baker’s cheese. These cheeses should be used soon after they are purchased. See Figure

26. Soft cheeses have a rind produced by a harmless mold.
A soft cheese (rind-ripened cheese) is a cheese that has been sprayed with a harmless mold to produce a thin skin. The living mold then works to ripen the soft cheese by reacting with the rind (the exterior skin of the cheese), resulting in a soft, suedelike coating on the cheese and a soft interior. A soft cheese will become extremely soft and somewhat runny once it is fully ripened. Soft cheese varieties include Brie and Camembert. See Figure

27. A dry-rind cheese is allowed to ripen with the external rind exposed to the air producing a dry, almost woody exterior.
A dry-rind cheese is a cheese that is allowed to ripen with its exterior exposed to air. The circulation of air dries out the exterior, producing a dry, almost woody rind. Although the rind becomes hard and dry, the interior of the cheese remains tender and smooth. Common examples of dry-rind semisoft cheeses are Monterey Jack, bel paese, and havarti. See Figure

28. A washed-rind cheese is washed, or rinsed, with liquids such as wines, oils, or fruit juices.
A washed-rind cheese is a semisoft cheese that has an exterior rind that is washed, or rinsed, with a fluid such as brine, wine, olive or nut oil, or fruit juice. Washing the rind with these products generates the growth of harmless bacteria that ripen the cheese through the rind to the interior. Common examples of washed-rind semisoft cheeses are Limburger, Muenster, brick, and Port Salut. See Figure

29. Waxed-rind cheeses ripen while encased in wax.
Waxed-rind cheese is a cheese produced by dipping a wheel of freshly made cheese into a liquid wax and allowing the wax to harden. The cheese ripens while encased in the wax. Although the wax coating is hard, the cheese inside stays soft. Common waxed-rind semisoft cheeses include Edam, Gouda, and fontina. See Figure

30. Blue-veined cheeses contain a harmless blue-green mold.
A blue-veined cheese is a cheese produced by inserting harmless live mold spores into the center of ripening cheese with a needle. The blue vein that runs through these cheeses indicates where a needle was inserted and mold spores were released. The mold is safe to consume and decreases the time required for a cheese to ripen. It also adds a distinctive flavor to the cheese. After the mold spores are injected, the exterior of the cheese wheel is salted to help keep the surface dry and prevent the mold from overtaking the exterior. Common blue-veined cheeses include bleu, Gorgonzola, Roque-fort, and Stilton. See Figure

31. Hard cheeses are excellent for slicing and grating.
A hard cheese is a firm, somewhat pliable and supple cheese with a slightly dry texture and buttery flavor. Because hard cheeses have a firmer overall texture than softer varieties, they grate and slice well, making them perfectly suited for sandwich preparations. Common examples of hard cheeses are Cheddar, Swiss, provolone, Gruyère, Cheshire, and Manchego. See Figure

32. Grating cheeses are the hardest cheeses produced.
A grating cheese is a hard, crumbly, dry cheese used grated or shaved onto food prior to serving. The crumbly texture makes it quite difficult to slice a grating cheese smoothly. Grating cheeses are usually produced as large wheels, many weighing close to 100 pounds. The most common grating cheeses are Parmesan, Romano, and asiago. See Figure

33. Processed cheese is made from a mixture of finely ground cheese scraps.
A processed cheese is a mixture of any variety of finely ground cheese scraps that are mixed with nondairy ingredients and melted together. The result is a cheese product that is uniform in flavor and texture and can be packaged in just about any shape or size. For the best processed cheese, care must be taken to select cheeses that are fully cured and sharp in flavor. See Figure

34. Cheese fondue is a hot cheese preparation served with items for dipping.
Cheese is a perishable food item that must be stored and served properly. Because cheese is a dairy product that contains a considerable amount of butterfat, absorbs odors, spoils relatively quickly, and can dry out if left exposed to air. In order to serve cheese at its best, it is important to understand proper storage, handling, and serving requirements. These requirements are relatively consistent for all cheese varieties with the exception of fresh cheese, such as cream cheese and cottage cheese, which should always be served chilled. Cheese can be used in fondue, salads, on sandwiches, in soups, or simply enjoyed with crackers, fruit, or bread. See Figure

35. Raw foods platters include crudités, fresh fruit, antipasto, and cheese platters.
Cold foods can be displayed on various-size platters. A cold foods platter is a garde manger’s opportunity to provide a sample of various foods as well as to highlight the chef’s expertise. Typical kinds of platters include raw foods platters, chaud froid platters, and platters of cured or smoked foods. See Figure

36. Cured or smoked meats and seafood make an attractive platter when sliced thin and arranged with complementary accompaniments.
Cured and smoked items are very popular in cold foods presentations. Smoked and cured seafood and meats are standard brunch items and are commonly found at upscale receptions and weddings. As with other cold foods platters, smoked items should be arranged attractively on the platter with accompaniments that complement the foods. For example, cured salmon can be served with capers, diced red onions, and chopped hard-cooked eggs. Cured and smoked meats can be served with gherkins (miniature pickles), assorted mustards, and spreads. Cured and smoked items should be sliced fairly thin to ensure they are tender and not overpowering in flavor. See Figure

37. Pâtés are made from finely ground meat layered with garnishes or other ingredients.
A pâté (pronounced pah-tay) is a preparation made from a finely ground meat layered with additional garnishes or ingredients and baked in a loaf-shaped pan. The tra-ditional form of pâté, called pâté en croûte (pronounced pah-tay ahn crewt), is made with pork forcemeat (finely ground meat) that is wrapped in pastry dough and baked in a loaf-shaped pan. Pâté en croûte is French for “pâté in crust.” See Figure

38. Terrines are made from coarsely or finely ground meat.
A terrine is a preparation made from either coarsely or finely ground meat, seafood, poultry, or vegetables and is baked in a loaf-shaped pan. Although the terms pâté and terrine are often used interchangeably, traditionally they are different preparations. A traditional terrine is made with a coarsely ground pork forcemeat baked in an earthenware casserole without a crust. The word terrine is derived from the French word terre (pronounced tair), meaning “earth.” See Figure

39. Raw or chilled seafood is served on raw bars.
A raw bar is a section of countertop or buffet line devoted to raw, or cooked and chilled, fish and seafood. See Figure Common items on a raw bar include sushi, sashimi, raw oysters and clams on the half shell, caviar, cooked shrimp, scallops, and lobster meat. On the half shell is a phrase referring to bivalves such as oysters and clams that are opened and served on one half of the shell. Shrimp and crab can be served raw but are typically served cooked. Raw bars commonly serve seafood seasonings and garnishes including lemon wedges, cocktail sauces, and hot sauces such as Tabasco®.

40. Ice carvings can be attractive sculptures or functional serving pieces.
One of the most dramatic centerpieces is an ice carving. An ice carving is typically about 2′ to 3′ tall and can be carved in any shape or design imaginable by a skilled ice carver. An ice carving is placed on a table in a drain pan to catch any water as the ice melts. Common sculptures found on buffets include vases, swans, baskets, and hearts. These carvings are for decorative purposes only. See Figure Other carvings can be both decorative and practical. For example, a carving of a large clamshell or treasure chest can hold shrimp cocktail or oysters on the half shell.

41. Fruits and vegetables can be cut into decorative garnishes.
There are many different garnishes that a garde manger can create for a cold buffet as well. Honeydew and cantaloupe can be carved into small swans or beautiful flowers while watermelons can be carved to form a whale or a large basket to hold cut-up fruit. Vegetables can also be carved to garnish a cold foods buffet. A butternut squash, for example, can be carved into a vase and filled with assorted root vegetables such as turnips, daikon radishes, carrots, and beets carved into a beautiful bouquet of flowers. An edible vegetable centerpiece can impress customers and guests as they browse an assortment of cold foods. See Figure