1. 2016 Glacier Travel Course

2. Agenda  Course overview & SIG information  Snow climbing  Avalanche awareness  Snow camping  Gear review  Conditioning  Prusiking demo  Knots practice  Gear tables

3. Course Overview  Lecture 1: March 1  Lecture 2: March 22  Field Trip 1: April 3  Social Potluck (optional) : April 14  Field Trip 2: April 23-24 OR April 30-May 1  Skills Practice (optional): With your SIGs

4. The Goal: At least 1 successful glacier summit … and many more in the future!

5. Mentors 1. Bill Borom / Nina Crampton - Issaquah 2. Craig S. / Diana Yuen – Eastside 3. Jared Pearce / Steve Komadina - Seattle 4. Justin McClellan / Sandra Villagarcia - Seattle 5. Peter Clitherow / Leigh Ann Wolfe – Program Center 6. Steve Russell / Jill Reeder - Seattle ~ 8-10 students per SIG

6. Signing up for FTs and Climbs  All lectures are required  FT1 is required  Social is optional but recommended  ONLY one of the final FTs (April 23 rd or April 30 th )  Sign up for climbs (see climbing guide for what’s open for our class!)

7. Snow climbing and camping

8. The Ice Axe (Leash Optional – more on this later)

9. Know your Equipment What terrain is the crampon designed for? 2minue

11. Nice Job ! No Broken Steps Ascending steep snow

12. Important energy-saving technique Unnatural -takes practice Keep your weight on straightened back leg Take a rest Push weight up on forward leg and straighten Repeat …Endlessly The Rest Step

13. Descending Steep Snow Mt Snoqualmie

14. Plunge Step

15. Descending Facing In

16. Descending Steep Snow Good Glissading Techniques (NOT pictured ;-)

17. The Cardinal Rules of Glissading (American Alpine Institute) Never glissade with crampons on. Never glissade on a rope team. Never glissade on a glacier. Always make sure that you can see where you're going. Make sure that there is a good run-out. These rules are quite black and white. There are few gray areas in glissading.

18. Terrain Navigation Considerations - When do we need that rope thingy?  Cornices  Slushy slopes  Moats  Bergschrunds  Rockfall & icefall  Avalanches  Crevasses

20. Avalanche Safety and Decision Making www.nps.gov

21. Preparation and Planning  Training:  Basic Climbing field trips and climbs  AIARE Level 1 and beyond  Preparation:  Avalanche forecast  Route selection  Consider party skills and risk tolerance Northwest Weather & Avalanche Center www.nwac.us

22. NWAC report

23. Risk Factors to Consider in Trip Planning  Snow >1”/hr or >1’ in 10 hrs  Wind (>12mph)  Strong direct sun  Rain on snow Photo: www.coasttocoastam.com Photo: nsidc.org/cryosphere/snow Photo: Erica Cline

24. Route Selection Lundin from Commonwealth Basin (Photo: Erica Cline)

25. Risk Factors to Consider in Route Selection  Slope  Runout zones  Landform (ridge vs. gully)  Aspect  Trigger points  Terrain traps  Forest vs. clearing

26. What to do in an avalanche  If you’re caught in an avalanche:  Move to side  Drop gear (except pack)  Ride it out (swimming motions)  Protect airspace  Helping others:  Note last seen location  Approach safely  Search below on fall line  Set beacons to search  Dig as fast as you can!!! www.nwac.us/photos/vie w/49/

27. Human Factors Blue sky effect: Many accidents occur during sunny days just after storms… Everyone is responsible for safe decisions

28. SNOW CAMPING

29. tent site: Why here?

31. Preparing the tent platforms

32. Dead-man all tent stakes Extend tent tie-down loops with cord

33. SETTING UP YOUR KITCHEN Keep a safe distance from your tent Use a slope Make a “cooking counter” Have a place for clean snow for water

34. COOKING Melting snow for water - takes LOTS of time and fuel So start right away Keep it simple - less time & less clean-up Cup cooking In the tent? Only in extremis

35. SLEEPING Go to bed in dry clothing Try to keep your tent dry Keep clothing in plastic bags What weight sleeping bag? Insulating pad(s)

36. Emergency Bivy in Snow  On overnight trip, No Problem  On day trip (i.e. No camping gear)  Always carry light tube tent or space blanket  Get out of the wind (tree well or dig trench)  Insulation (sit pad, pack, rope, …)  Put on dry clothing – Put on ALL your clothing - especially head and hands  Psychological factors  You’ll be uncomfortable, but do the above and you’ll survive unscathed

37. Gear Review

38. What you need Climbing  Climbing Helmet  Harness  Boots  Crampons  Ice Axe  Pack  Slings and prusik materials  Pulley  10 essentials  Glacier glasses Camping  Tent  Sleeping Bag & pad  Toilet kit  Water filter  Stove, fuel, pot, utensils, water bottles, and food  Overnight clothing

39. Your leader’s gear  Climbing: Same as you  Camping: Same as you +  Lead Equipment:  Rope  Protection: Pickets, Ice Screws  Orientation: Wands, GPS

40. Ultralight Backpackin' Tips: 153 Amazing & Inexpensive Tips for Extremely Lightweight Camping - Mike Clelland, $10 on Amazon.com

42.  Lightweight not a substitute for conditioning  Be nerdy. Get a scale, make a list!  Investigate choices and tradeoffs  Be creative  Comfortable and safe are vital  Light is not always more expensive Lighten your load

43. Conditioning

44. Age Group Time up Si (NW/W) Workout Regimen / weekMantra Mike Radin16-35-- / 1:35 90 minutes multiple times Biking Conditioners Anything that gets you out and uphill like stairs or hills Meredith Trainor 16-35<2 hrs with 40- 50 lbs 30-35 hrs (Gym climbing, weights, stairs, run, hike, conditioners) 1) Work out in the morning 2) Work out with friends who have a similarly serious level of commitment, so that it turns into social time and 3) Vary my workouts all year long to keep it interesting Sean Albert36-451:10/1:30 50-100 days a year outside Gym climb 2-4 days 1-2 conditioners Get up and go! Patty Cokus36-451:40 – 2:00 with 10-20lbs 6 hours (gym, yoga, circuit) Conditioner 1x Vary it up for interest and different muscle groups. Have FUN! Be committed. Deling Ren36-451:01/1:30 30-40 miles running Gym climbing 2x 2 hrs Conditioner 1x your metabolism doesn’t take vacation Colt De Wolf 46-55-- / 2:20 4x (~5 hours) Running, biking, gym climbing, skiing, hiking the goal is less about being competitive with others. It's more important to have enough stamina to enjoy the activity, keep up with my fellow climbers, and have extra reserve in case of emergencies Rena Chinn46-55-- / <2 hrs 17 hours (gym, climbing gym) 1-2 conditioners/scrambles only compare your performance with your former self Stefanie Schiller 46-55Old: 1:10 / 1:22 15-20 hrs (gym climbing, weights, trail running, hiking, yoga) Conditioners Get started now. Susan Shih56-65-- / -- Old Si: 1:50 2-4 times – conditioners/hikesget out as often as possible with a group or organization you enjoy being with

45. Conditioning  Fit is Fun  <2 hours up New Si with 15% body weight  Vary your training  Get out and enjoy!

46. Climbing Knots & Prusiking Demo

47. Knots we need for Glacier Climbs  Water Knot  Slip Knot  Clove Hitch  Prusik Knot  Rewoven Figure 8  Butterfly Knot

48. Descending the Snow Dome, Mt Olympus

49. Sunrise on the Emmons at 12,000 Feet

50. Questions?