1. Year 8 Fuse Tester Design & Technology PCB Information Fixed value resistors 470R = Yellow, Purple, Brown This component is soldered directly onto the PCB Remember to clean all remaining photopolymer from the surface of the copper tracks and pads prior to drilling and soldering. Remember that the image of the PCB below shows the board from the component side. Your component pins should therefore pass through the board to be soldered directly onto the copper side. Do not connect the battery until you have had your circuit checked by a member of staff. The PCB is made from a glass reinforced plastic wafer with a copper layer to conduct electricity between components (+ to -) Battery connector – soldered directly to the PCB PP3 – 9v battery Push to make test switch – connected by flying leads to the PCB. There is no polarity on this component. LED – connected by flying leads to the PCB. Remember long leg positive, short leg negative. Fuse terminal block should have two pieces of multicore wire long enough to allow them to reach the contact points on the case. The PCB uses strain holes to support the wire and stop soldered joins from breaking. These are 1.5mm

2. All pads for components should be drilled 1.5mm The smaller pads which are not connected to anything should be drilled 1.5mm. These are your strain holes The single large pad should be drilled 8mm. This allows the PCB to fit over the switch Once you have drilled your holes you should clean the track side of the board with wire wool to reveal the copper layout. Year 8 Fuse Tester – PCB and Components Push to make switch – used to test that the battery has power, before testing any fuses. Light Emitting Diode (LED). This must be connected the correct way into the circuit, with the long leg to positive. This will turn on only if your fuse is good Resistor – this is used to reduce the current flowing in the circuit, protecting the LED which only needs a small amount of current to operate. Resistors have coloured bands on them to indicate their value. You are using a resistor with yellow, purple, brown and gold bands. This is a 470 Ohm resistor Drilling the PCBComponents

3. Year 8 Fuse Tester – Quality checking your soldering

4. Wire strippers – used for stripping the plastic sleeving from wire and for cutting wire Side cutters – using for trimming the excess wire from components once they are soldered onto a PCB. Long nosed (snipe) pliers – used for holding or pulling components. They can also be used to cut wire. Year 8 Fuse Tester – a bit of knowledge De-soldering tool – for removing solder from component on a PCB to allow them to be removed. Push the plastic sleeving of the wire through the 1.5mm hole closest to the position of the component. The wire should go through from the copper side of the board and then bend over so that the bare end of the wire goes through the 1mm hole ready for soldering Using strain holes Multi strand wire This is made of several fine strands of copper wire which makes it flexible. Always twist these strands together once you have stripped the sleeving

5. Drill holes in PCB Use wire wool to clean copper surface Solder the 470 Ohm resistor onto the PCB Solder the battery clip in place. Make sure you use the 1.5mm strain holes Year 8 Fuse Tester – order of work for PCB Cut two lengths of multi-strand wire approx. 100mm long, one red and one black Put sleeving over the soldered joins of the LED Solder the other end of the LED wires onto the PCB, remembering to use the strain holes and ensuring the red wire goes to the + symbol Cut two more lengths of multi- strand wire approx. 100mm long, one red and one black Strip the ends of the wire and solder these onto the LED – Red to the longer leg Strip the ends of the wire and solder these onto the switch Solder the switch wires onto the PCB, ensuring the wires pass through the large hole Finally cut two more lengths of wire (either colour) and solder these onto the remaining holes in the PCB. These will eventually be soldered to a separate fuse pad

6. Year 8 Fuse Tester - casing Design & Technology Information Images of the fuse tester case Vacuum Formed Case Made from High Impact Polystyrene Holes drilled for LED and switch using the Pillar Drill

7. Year 8 Fuse Tester – logo/slogan design Design & Technology Task Creating a logo for your completed fuse tester Information Using Techsoft 2D Design create a logo for your fuse tester. The logo must: incorporate text only fit in a text box no larger than 40 x 25 mm use a wide / bold font (see example) be placed in one of the positions indicated  Please note that your drawing must be in black and white. The choice of colour is made when you select the vinyl from which to cut out. Available colours: Black, red, blue, green, white, yellow Position 2 Using Techsoft 2D Design Please ensure you follow these instructions. 1.Draw a box 30X30 mm in which to place your text. 2.Double click on the ABC icon to enable the text preferences menu (see below) 3.Select the font, ensuring it is wide enough to cut out.(see example) 4.Set the fill option to ‘no fill’ and leave the line colour as black. (see below) 5.Set the height to 10mm. (see below) 6.Type the text you want and then position it inside the box you have drawn. 7.Save your design onto a USB memory stick. Remember to give the file a sensible title!

8. Year 8 Fuse Tester Evaluation – Use the following guide to help you complete evaluation slide New Skills and Processes What new skills and processes have you learnt about through making the fuse tester? Use technical vocabulary and correct names of tools and machines in your descriptions. Include diagrams and images where you can Problems and Solutions Which parts of the project or processes did you find the most difficult or have problems with? Did your circuit work first time? If not, what was wrong and how did you solve it? How well did you use your time? Printed Circuit Board and Assembly Look at the soldering on your PCB. Is it the correct shape and shiny. Is it even and consistent on all connections? How could it be improved? Vacuum Forming Look at the edges of your vacuum formed case. Are they smooth and even? Are the holes for the switch and LED correctly positioned. Does the casing fit together well? Could anything be improved upon?