Weaving Knitting Nonwoven/Felting FABRIC CONSTRUCTION Weaving Knitting Nonwoven/Felting

FABRIC TERMS Lengthwise grain…strongest grain, also called the warp yarns, runs parallel to the selvage Selvages…woven edges of fabric, runs parallel to lengthwise grain Crosswise grain… weaker grain, runs parallel to cut or torn edge and perpendicular to the lengthwise grain; also called the weft yarns Bias…a diagonal line of direction running between the lengthwise and crosswise grains of fabric Cut or Torn edge… runs parallel to the crosswise grain Fabric fold…created when selvages or cut edges are brought together.

PLAIN WEAVE Over one, under one

PLAIN WEAVE VARIATIONS BASKET Two over, two under

PLAIN WEAVE VARIATION PILE WEAVE CUT PILE UNCUT PILE Terry Cloth Corduroy

TWILL FABRIC WEAVE Over two, under two but staggering beginning threads to form a diagonal line. Denim

Under one, over four or more creating “floats” with weft yarns SATIN WEAVE Under one, over four or more creating “floats” with weft yarns

SATIN WEAVE VARIATION Sateen Weave Floats on warp yarns

SATIN WEAVE VARIATION JACQUARD WEAVE Computer weaving that creates multiple patterns in a fabric. Floats can be seen on wrong side of fabric.

KNITTING Constructing fabric with one yarn and one set (2) of needles; right side is flat (knit), wrong side is bumpy (pearl).

FELTING Nonwoven fabric made by pressing fibers together with moisture, heat, and pressure. Nonwoven fabrics have no grainlines. Earliest type of fabric made.

Color the same on front and back Color different on front and back Coloring Fabric Before Construction: Yarn Dying After Construction: Printing: Color the same on front and back After Construction: Piece Dying Color different on front and back

FABRIC WEAVE ID ASSIGNMENT Pick up one of each of the fabric samples on the cutting table and a magnifying glass. Use the magnifying glass to identify the weave or construction method of each fabric sample. Cut samples to fit dotted lines on sample card. (2” x 2”) Glue into place. Place completed card in wire basket. Return magnifying glass to tote tray.

FABRIC QUIZ Period______ Score________ 4. On what part of the fabric would you place a pattern piece so you don’t have a seam? 2. Which grain is the strongest grain and should run vertical on the body? 9. Name 2 ways color is added to fabric. 7. What are 3 methods for constructing fabric? 8. Identify each of the three basic fabric weaves pictured. 3. Which part of fabric has the most stretch? 6. The woven edge of the fabric is the _____________________. Label the parts of fabric the arrows are pointing to. Name___________________________________ 5. The crosswise grain is perpendicular to what grain?