Reconstructing Ancient Technology: The analysis of Pre- Columbian Ecuadorian Textiles

Project Objective To uncover aspects of the Guangala culture through analysis of textile impressions on pottery sherds.

Introduction The people of the Guangala region lived between 500 BC and AD 800 –Southwest Coastal Ecuador –No recorded history –Left artifacts with textile imprints

Background Information: Culture Textiles played central role in pre- colonial South American cultures. Textiles often showed status, identity, and had ceremonial implications. Mummy from Paracas, Peru

The Guangala (500 BC – AD 800) No evidence of any social stratification. Communities simply organized. Evidence that they were long-distance traders. Not definitively tied to any modern culture.

Textiles and Ceramics in the Guangala The Guangala also used textiles in ceramics. Textiles were usually recycled textiles, not textiles made specifically for ceramic production.

Background Information: Textiles Important component of Textiles: Warp and Weft

Types of Plain Simple Weaves Balanced Weft-faced Warp-faced

Textile Characteristics to Find Number of threads in the warp and the weft Type of weave The fiber type Thread diameter Number of threads per centimeter Regularity

Method Artifacts vs. experimental molds Negative to positive images

Observation Techniques Photography Light microscope SEM

Experimental These are modern textiles of known material and technological processes. Compared to artifacts.

Cotton Saddlebag

Cotton Towel

Sheep Wool Bag

Cabuya Coaster

Cabuya Purse

Alpaca Poncho

The Artifacts Artifacts range from Early Guangala (Artifact 5) to Late Guangala (Artifacts 1 and 3). From El Azúcar Valley – varied sites.

Artifact 1

Artifact 1 - Cast Excavated Floor

Artifact 2

Artifact 3

Artifact 3 - Cast

Artifact 4

Artifact 4- Impression

Artifact 4 - Cast Above: Weft dominant Below: Warp dominant Above: Artifact cast Below: Alpaca poncho

Artifact 5- Artifact, Casts

Artifact 5 Side A Simple Plain Balanced Superimposed

Conclusion Hypothesis: Balanced Plain Weaves, irregularities, worn-down textiles Actual: complex weaves with evidence of designs and color schemes Conclusion: Sophisticated and Skilled Alpaca fibers found although evidence suggests that there were no llamas on the coast Trading System and Economic System

ArtifactWarpWeftWeave type SpinFiber Type Thread Diameter (mm) Threads Per cm Regularity 1Ind Ind.1.56Slight variation 2 (green) 1 thick, 2 thin, repeating pattern DoubleBalanced plain Cotton (tentative).25 (thick).2 (thin) 12 warp 16 weft Slight variation, no knobs 2 (yellow) Ind. Plain (loose) Ind warp 14 weft Irregular spacing/ diameter 3Single Balanced Plain Alpaca (tentative).511Fairly regular, gradually loosening 4Single Warp/weft (?) -faced plain Alpaca (tentative).88Balanced 5ASingle Balanced plain Ind..212Slight variation, no knobs 5BInd. Intricate and inconsistent Ind..212 one way, 20 the other

Acknowledgments Thank you Dr. Masucci for your guidance and support as our project leader. Thanks especially for the food!!! Thank you Danielle for your long hours of patience and dedication and for just being cool. Cabooyah! Thank you Dr. Miyamoto for everything.

Works Consulted [1]Masucci, Maria. Introductory Speech. New Jersey Governor’s School in the Sciences. Hall of Sciences, Drew University, New Jersey. July 2006 [2]Boytner, Ran Clothing the Social World. In Andean Archaeology, edited by Helene Silverman, pp Malden, MA: Blackwell Publishing [3]Bruhns, Karen Olsen. The Story of a Sherd: The Second Oldest Textile in Ecuador. 12 July 2006 [4]Stothert, Karen E., Kathleen A Epstein, Thomas R. Cummins and Maritza Freire. “Reconstructing Prehistoric Textile and Ceramic Technology From Impressions of Cloth in Figurines From Ecuador.” Materials, Research Society, Symposium Proceedings., Vol. 185 (1991) pp [5]Emery, Irene. The Primary Structures of Fabrics. The Textile Museum, Washington D.C.: p.10. [6]Doyon-Bernard, Suzette J. La Florida’s Mortuary Textiles: The Oldest Extant Textiles From Ecuador. The Textile Museum, Washington D.C.: pp [7]Parker, JH and KE Stothert. Weaving a Cotton Saddlebag on the Santa Elena Peninsula of Ecuador. The Textile Museum Journal 1983; Vol. 22: pp [8]Rowe, Sarah Marie. Symbolic Function and Social Design: Analysis of Guangala Polychrome Ceramics from Coastal Ecuador. A Thesis in Anthropology, Drew University, New Jersey. May [9]Bruhns, Karen Olsen. Ecuador’s Second Oldest Textile. The Textile Museum Journal pp