Waves, Beaches and Coastal Erosion. Tidal forces associated with Moon 1.

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Presentation transcript:

Waves, Beaches and Coastal Erosion

Tidal forces associated with Moon 1

Tidal forces associated with Sun and Moon High tide stays aligned with moon but Earth rotates, yielding 2 high and 2 low tides each day.

Tides are cyclical floods Tidal forces associated with Sun and Moon Neap tides: Sun and Moon tides are out of phase Spring tides: Two tides are in phase-- High tide will be higher than usual

Tidal Ranges Are Highly Variable: Bay of Fundy--17 m!

Tidal Ranges influenced by local conditions and bathymetry Bays tend to focus the water and create larger ranges Organisms are stratified based on tidal zone

2) Sea Level: What and When? Mean sea level is the average height of the sea… Relative to what? When? High or low tide? Measured with tide gauges

Sea Level: Changes through time

Eustatic Sea Level Changes “Eustatic” refers to changes related to amount of water in the oceans

3) Tidal Flats: exposed mud at low tide

4) Waves and Sediment Transport

Wave Velocity- Deep Water

Wave Energy Doubling wave height quadruples energy: E w =  gH 2 L where: E w = energy of wave  = water density (g/cm 3 ; close to 1) g = acceleration of gravity (9.8 m/sec 2 ) H = wave height (m) L = wavelength (m)

Passive continental margin Submarine canyons Coastal plain Continental shelf Continental slope Continental rise Continental crust Continental crust Oceanic crust Mantle Deep-sea fan Abyssal plain

Path of water particles Longshore current Rip current Path of sand particles 5) Waves approaching the shore at an angle cause a longshore current. Longshore drift results from movement of sand particles by swash and backwash.

Sand will move in this direction The beach is a “river of sand”

6)Headlands receive strong wave energy- leads to erosion

7) Rip Currents

8) Sand Supply/Loss

Offshore sand bars migrate to beach during summer Winter storms remove beach sand to deeper water Hurricanes result in summer beach sand loss

8) Sand Supply/Loss

Engineered Beach Protection Structures

9) Erosion of Gently Sloping Coasts and Barrier Islands

Beach migrated 400 m in 60 years

Barrier Islands are Geologically Temporary

Chandeleur Islands Before (above) and after (below) Hurricane Katrina

10) Sea Cliff Erosion Headlands erode from wave action Creates caves, arches, sea stacks

Sea Cave

Arches

Sea Stacks

Sea Cliff Erosion

Coastal Erosion

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