MALIBU: THE PRODUCER OF SURF CULTURE, LEGENDS AND AGGRESSION Arles duPont-Town

HISTORY AND CULTURE: Malibu is the birthplace for surfing on the west coast - Surfing made its first introduction in Hawaii and migrated over to California in 1907 by Hawaiian George Freeth at Redondo Beach. - Duke Kahanamoku, another Hawaiian, was famous for giving surfing lessons in Santa Monica and influenced the first surfers to ride the wave in Malibu that would create surf culture known around the world. -First surf session was recorded in 1926 by Tom Blake and Sam Reid with 10’ redwood surfboards. - Surfing had some influence in the development of Malibu (highway’s and house’s were built in the mid 1940’s to the mid 1960’s. before it was all mountains) -this allowed access to beaches and the Pacific Coast Highway brought in many new surfers - Surfrider beach defined surfing in the 50’s and 60’s, it faces south at the mouth of Malibu Creek. -One of the best point breaks -One of the best small right breaks in the world -Produced many legends -Epicenter for surf culture and modern surfing -Mid 1940’s- mid 1960’s boom of surf culture

Malibu Legends: Gidget - term originally given to Kathy Kohner who was the first girl to surf Malibu -meaning girl and midget -made into a book and a movie - story of her way to being accepted and apart of the Malibu surfing gang, including Moondoggie and the Kahuna Dora- elated elated - unseen surf style - “Da Cat” because of his mannerisms in and out of the water, created the bad boy image. -Mastered the wave of Malibu Carson Fain Riddle Sarlo Meador (19) Lyon

“Malibu has been crowded since photographer Leroy Grannis returned from World War II and found the place "mobbed" with 12 guys on the point. Since then, it's been the focal point of hot-dog surfing and Southern California beach culture, from Quigg and Kivlin to Tubesteak, Moondoggie and Gidget to Dora, Fain and Carson to Riddle and Pratt to Sarlo and Daley to Petruso, Stansfield and Perillo to longboarders like Josh Farberow and Kassia Meador. To say Malibu is crowded is like saying the Pacific Ocean has a lot of saltwater -- it's a given.” – Jaz Kaner of surfline

Malibu is one of the hardest places to forecast because of the islands miles out that create island wave shadowing. - best swell windows are from south to southwest ( degrees) and from the southwest to west-southwest ( degrees) -swells coming from those directions will be up to 50% blocked by San Nicholas and Santa Barbara islands. -Any other swell directions will result in more blockage from islands producing smaller surf. -there is a lot of refraction occurring off the islands making it hard for huge storms to hit Malibu and other southern California surf spots.

Swells coming from the south-southwest are southern hemisphere swells generated from Antarctica, New Zealand and Tahiti but those places especially Tahiti sift the strength of the waves because of all of the islands blocking SoCal. -Long period swells (15-20) seconds are able to reach California -Short period swells under 14 seconds decays over 4,000 to 7,000 miles so they do not make to to California -best swells for Malibu are from the SW ( ) but are rare. -it is extremely important to know what swell directions are good for predicting waves in Southern California.

-Tide: Medium -Swell Direction: S, SW, WSW -Size: Waist high to double over head Wind: northwesterlies (side offshore) -Ability level: intermediate to advanced -Season: Spring, Summer, Fall Best… Malibu has three takeoffs each containing a cobblestone sandy bottom and the occasional sand bar. -1 st point - smaller but best shaped wave no close-outs -2 nd point - faster performance wave, more closeouts -3 rd point - farther out, faster and bowler wave of the three points better for shortboards With the right tide, swell and sandbar the three points can connect resulting in a ride in over a quarter mile long.

Malibu is protected from the prevailing northwesterliy winds= surfable waves all day long 1 st point is the most protected by the winds 2 nd and 3 rd can pick up winds from the outside that give it a little texture.

Where the Malibu Creek Watershed meets the ocean is the result of the waves created at points like Malibu, but also provides lots of pollution when it over flows. The best point breaks result from where river mouths hit the ocean where sediment can flow in and out creating sandbars.

Formation of cobblestone reef has been formed by flooding that deposits debris in the ocean from the mouth of the creek. The more sand covering the reef will cover up deep spots between rocks that results in perfect reefs between 2 nd and 3 rd point.

Malibu has the most consistent perfect weather in California Warm Cleary, sunny Between 60 (winter) and 70 degrees Most rainfall between December and mid-April Best time to travel is in the spring summer and fall

But…. The waves tend to be inconsistent The crowd is unreal The water is heavily polluted ** regular rules and surfing codes do not apply here

Even though the rules for most surfers are not in use while surfing in Malibu, you still have to know what you are doing to be able to surf this wave. Aggression is a big part of it without that you will not catch a single wave.

Sea life -Lots of kelp -Off the coast of Malibu is a white shark birthing place – As babies they eat fish and rays off the bottom – And migrate when they start to hunt bigger prey

Malibu is the most diverse surf spot I the world. There are million dollar houses lining the beaches, expensive cars driving down PCH and in the mix there is a pristine surf spot that integrates all the wacky and eccentric people who, if came to surf at our beaches would be on the 6 o'clock news. -you can find anyone from Joel Tudor to Dennis Quad surfing this wave

Traveling to Malibu For us on the east coast flying to the west coast can be costly and time consuming. Depending one how far in advanced and when you book your flight the price will be between dollars There are so many different hotels to choose from in and around Malibu, the typical rate per night can be anywhere from dollars In all a trip to California can be pricey but it is well worth it to surf that perfect wave.

references "Malibu Surf Mechanics." Infographic. Surfline. Sean Collins. Quicksilver, Web. 1 Nov 2011.