New Topic - Waves Always wind, so always waves Transfer of energy from a windy area to a narrow coastal band General topics to cover: (1) Generation (2)

Slides:

Advertisements

Similar presentations

Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean ©2003 Jones and Bartlett Publishers.

Advertisements

Transformation of Shallow-Water Waves The Certificate Program in Tsunami Science and Preparedness. Held at the University of Washington in Seattle, Washington.

WAVES disturbance caused by the movement of energy from a source through some medium (solid, liquid or gas). THERE ARE MANY DIFFERENT SIZES AND SHAPES.

Introduction to Oceanography Dynamic Oceanography: Waves.

Types, characteristics, properties

Chapter 9: Waves and Water Dynamics Fig Waves are moving energy Forces cause waves to move along air/water or within water Wind (most surface ocean.

Waves. 2 3  Waves are created on the surface of water as the result of a generating force.  An additional force, called the restoring force, acts to.

How Waves Form When you watch the surfer's wave crash onto the beach, you are seeing the last step in the process of the wave's development. The process.

Properties of A Wave Properties of A Wave.

  waimea-bay-cam

Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course web site. Waves in the Ocean Words from these PPT slides are already on the course.

Waves. 2 3 Waves are created on the surface of water as the result of a generating force. An additional force, called the restoring force, acts to return.

2 – SEA WAVE CHARACTERIZATION António F. de O. Falcão Instituto Superior Técnico, Universidade Técnica de Lisboa, Portugal Renewable Energy Resources 2008.

Warm Up 2/25/08 What is true about an ocean current that is moving toward the equator? a. It is cold. c. It is warm. b. It is slow. d. It is fast.

Waves and Tides. Wave Characteristics Most ocean waves are energy passing through water caused by the wind Crests are the top of the waves Troughs are.

Waves Oceanography Notes. Anatomy of a Wave Wave height :vertical distance between a crest and the preceding trough Amplitude: equal to one-half the wave.

Chapter 16 Wave Motion.

Chapter 10 Waves Capillary Waves, Wind Waves, Tsunamis, Internal waves

WAVES disturbance caused by the movement of energy from a source through some medium (solid, liquid or gas).

1 Fall 2004 Physics 3 Tu-Th Section Claudio Campagnari Web page:

Juan Carlos Ortiz Royero Ph.D.

Ocean Waves What causes ocean waves to form and move?

Forecasting Ocean Waves Problem: Given observed or expected weather, what will be the sea state? Ships are sunk not by winds, but by waves!

Lesson 9: Waves Physical Oceanography

Chapter 10 Ocean Waves Part 1 ftp://ucsbuxa.ucsb.edu/opl/tommy/Geog3awinter2011/

PHYS 20 LESSONS Unit 6: Simple Harmonic Motion Mechanical Waves Lesson 6: Mechanical Waves.

Ch11 Waves. Period (T): The shortest time interval during which motion repeats. Measures of a Wave Time (s)

Waves for Weather Weenies

Waves How Does Ocean Water Move?

Wind Waves…. Presented by: Saira Hashmi Nov 18 th, 2005 EPS 131 Introduction to Physical Oceanography.

Waves and Water Dynamics

Classification: Internal Status: Draft Predicting characteristic loads for jackets and jack-ups Shallow water location – quasi-static approach Problem.

By: Michael Scott. Waves Are usually associated with the constant gravitational pull of the moon and the sun. In this section, we will learn what waves.

Chapter 10 Waves.

Types of Ocean waves. Capillary wave capillary wave, small, free, surface-water wave with such a short wavelength that its restoring force is the water’s.

WAVE PROCESSES ON A COAST HOW WAVES ARE FORMED Ocean surface waves are occur on the free surface of the ocean. They usually result from wind, and are also.

WAVES. Understanding wave physics is important for human life (and not just for surfing) 1. A wave is the transmission of energy through matter – in this.

Waves in the Ocean. Waves are the undulatory motion of a water surface. Parts of a wave are, Wave crest,Wave trough, Wave height (H), Wave Amplitude,

2005 Tropical Storms Storm tracks generally fall into three categories: 1) Atlantic U-turns 2) Gulf coast strikers 3) East coast skirters

Waves. Simple Harmonic Motion  periodic motion - a motion that ________itself again and again along the same path  simple harmonic motion (SHM) - a.

Chapter 10 Waves.

Unit 3: Waves and tides.

Chapter 7 Waves in the Ocean.

LEO PAN PHYSICS 420 OUTREACH PROGRAM DEPARTMENT OF PHYSICS AND ASTRONOMY UNIVERSITY OF B.C. An Introduction to Tsunami.

Waves. Wave are a mechanism for the transfer of energy. – The larger the wave the more energy being moved – To double a wave height requires about 4x.

WAVES. Wave – propagation of energy through a medium. Speed is determined by the properties of the medium. Gravity waves – sufficiently large waves where.

Waves Chapter 9.

The Waves An Introduction to the World’s Oceans Sverdrup et al. - Chapter Ten - 8th Ed.

Definition Undulation that forms as a disturbance moves along the surface of the water.

Waves. Waves Transport energy over a body of waterTransport energy over a body of water.

© 2014 Pearson Education, Inc. W Waves and Water Dynamics Chapter 8.

Physical Oceanography Surface Gravity Waves Properties Dispersion Refraction & Diffraction Group velocity Generation Assignment: Read Chapter 16 of Stewart:

Waves Transmit energy (not mass) across the ocean’s surface

Waves Transmit energy (not mass) across the ocean’s surface

Lab 5 WAVES. What is waves ? how do waves form? Wave is a movement of upper surface of water due to transfer of energy from the wind into the water without.

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

So the celerity illustrated is…

Wave Parameters (Figure 7-1a)

Forecasting Ocean Waves

Waves and Tides Notes.

Ocean Waves Text Book Page #

16.2 – Waves and Tides.

Waves in the Ocean.

Waves Physics Ms. Shaver Coyle, Greece 2005, North Aegean Sea.

Parts of a Wave Defined:

Presentation transcript:

New Topic - Waves Always wind, so always waves Transfer of energy from a windy area to a narrow coastal band General topics to cover: (1) Generation (2) Dispersion and Travel (3) Shoaling Transformation (4) Breaking

Sea, Swell, Surf

Wave Anatomy - Periodic Waves T = wave period f = wave frequency = 1/T L = wave length C = L/T = phase velocity or celerity H = wave height  = water surface displacement h = water depth Can think of waves w.r.t. a spatial framework, or w.r.t. a temporal framework. d = horizontal water particle orbital diameter s = vertical water particle orbital diameter u = horizontal water particle velocity w = vertical water particle velocity

Motion of water in waves Red dot on the surface - sees the wave form pass, but moves in a circular orbit When red dot is at bottom of it’s orbital, it’s in the trough of the wave, when at the top of its orbital, it’s at the crest of the wave Orbital size (diameter) decreases with depth Waves propagate through the medium

Dispersion – sorting by wave period

Formation of Wave Groups two wave trains of slightly different wave lengths, superposed, can create wave groups

Wave Superposition run animation of wave superposition

Spectral Energy of Water Level Fluctuations Classification of wave motions is based on restoring force.

Wave Measurement Three main types of in-situ measurement devices: 1.Surface Piercing 2.Pressure Sensing 3.Surface Following Other Measurement Considerations: Directional Measurements Satellites

Wave Heights from a Time Series of Water Levels Zero up-crossing vs. zero down-crossing

Wave Analysis Statistical Analysis - time domain analysis which uses a wave height measurement technique (e.g. zero upcrossing) to determine a series of characteristic heights (H sig, H rms, H 1/10, H max ) vs. Spectral Analysis – which is carried out in the frequency domain, and is a fairly standard technique today.

“Characteristic Waves” Derived from a Time Series of Wave Heights

MATLAB examples of artificial waves fft analysis and Santa Cruz deep & shallow waves fft analysis Fourier Analysis – based on the concept that any complex time series can be represented by a combination of various sine and cosine functions. By performing a Fourier Transform of the “time domain” data, we obtain a function in the “frequency domain” which describes which frequencies are present in the original function.

Frequency-Direction Spectra Representative Values? H s = H 1/3 = 4  = 4*sqrt(var) H rms = 2*sqrt(2)*sqrt(var) f p, the frequency at the spectral peak  p, the direction at the spectral peak Use Fourier Analysis to deconvolve individual wave components Can Identify Spectra of Frequencies and Spectra of Directions Example above shows 2 distinct wave sources

Wave Data Sources - NOAA/NDBC Other sources: WIS

Analyses of Wave Records - Extreme Events Akin to flood-frequency prediction in hydrology: 1.Don’t have a hundred year long record? Extrapolate! 2.Rank the annual highs (Hsig) 3.P n = n/(N+1) 4.R = 1/(1-P(H))5. Special paper - Weibull distribution plots a straight line