YARN CLASSIFICATION Primary classification of yarn is: filament yarn: Staple yarn filament yarn: CONTINOUS STRAND, EITHER MONO FILAMENT OR MULTI FILAMENT. SOMETIMES FILAMENT YARNS ARE PUT THROUGH AN ADDITIONAL PROCESS CALLED TEXTURE TEXTURING MODIFIES FEEL AND BULK OF FILAMENT YARN.

STAPLE YARN STAPLE OR SPUN YARN ARE MADE FROM STAPLE FIBRES. STAPLE FIBRES ARE TWISTED TOGETHER TO FORM LONG CONTINOUS YARN THE AESTHETIC QUALITY SUCH AS COMFORT, WARMTH, SOFTNESS AND APPEARNESS MAKE THESE YARNS HIGHLY DESIRABLE IN MANY PRODUCTS.

YARN CLASSIFIED BY NUMBER OF PARTS YARNS THAT HAVE BEEN CLASSIFIED BY THE NUMBER OF PARTS ARE DIVIDED INTO SINGLE, PLY AND CORD YARN. A SINGLE YARN IS MADE FROM A GROUP OF FILAMENT OR STAPLE FIBERS TWISTED TOGETHER. PLY YARN ARE MADE BY TWISTING TOGETHER TWO OR MORE SINGLE YARNS. CORD YARNS ARE MADE BY TWISING TOGETHER TWO OR MORE PLY YARNS.

PHYSICAL FIBRE PROPERTIES LENGTH THE LENGTH OF FIBRE IS ONE BASIS FOR CLASSIFICATION. FIBRES OF RELATIVELY SHORT LENGTH MEASURED IN CENTIMETERES OR INCHES ARE CALLED STAPLE FIBRES. ALL NATURAL FIBRES EXCEPT SILK ARE STAPLE FIBRES. MANUFACTURED FIBRES MAY BE FOUND IN EITHER STAPLE OR FILAMENT FORM. COTTON FIBRE IS ALSO MEASURED IN TERMS OF “STAPLE LENGTH” WHICH IS REPRESENTATIVE LENGTH OF COTTON DETERMINED BY HAND STAPLING METHOD. THE LONGER THE COTTON FIBRE THE FINER THE FIBRE.

DIAMETER OR FINNESS THE DIAMETER OF A FIBRE IS THE DISTANCE ACROSS ITS CROSS SECTION. THE DIAMT,EER OF NATURAL FIBRES VARIES FROM ONE PART OF THE FIBRE TO ANOTHER BECAUSE OF IRREGULARITIES IN FIBRE SIZE. FIBRE DIAMETER IS MEASURED IN MILLIMETERS OR MICRONS. 1 MICRON IS 1/1000 OF A MILLIMETER. FIBRE DIAMETER IS AN ASPECT OF FINNESS, USUALLY ESPRESSED AS A LINEAR DENSITY OR WEIGHT PER UNIT LENGTH. MEASUREMENT USED IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY IS EITHER DENIER(WEIGHT IN GRAMS/9000 METRE) OR IN TEX(WEIGHT IN GRAMS/1000 METRE). COTTON FIBRE’S FINNESS IS MEASURED IN MICRONAIRE VALUE WHICH IS MICROGRAM PER INCH OF SINGLE COTTON FIBRE.

STRENGTH AN IMPORTANT PROPERTY OF FIBRE IS THEIR RESISTANCE TO STRETCHING, THAT IS, TO FORCES APPLIED PARALLEL TO FIBRE AXIS. THE STRETCHING OR TENSILE FORCE REQUIRED TO BREAK A FIBRE IS CALLED TENSILE STRENGTH. TENACITY OF FIBRES IS STRENGTH RELATIVE TO LINEAR DENSITY AND IS MEASURED IN GRAMS/TEX OR GRAMS/DENIER IN GENERAL, STRONGER THE FIBRE, STRONGER THE YARN

YARN DIMENSION COUNT SINCE TEXTILE INDUSTRY REQUIRES SOME MEANS FOR DISTINGUISHING BETWEEN YARN FOR DIFFERENT SIZES, STANDARDS OF MEASUREMENT HAVE BEEN ESTABLISHED. THESE SYSTEMS MAYBE EITHER DIRECT NUMBERING SYSTEM OR INDIRECT NUMBERING SYSTEM. DIRECT NUMBERING SYSTEM DIRECT METHODS OF MEASUREMENT RELY ON THE MEASUREMENT OF FIXED LENGTH OF YARN AND THIS LENGTH IS WEIGHED. THE MEASURES USED ARE “TEX” OR “DENEIR”. TEX: NUMBER OF GRAMS/1000 METRE DENIER: NUMBER OF GRAMS/9000 METRE

INDIRECT NUMBERING SYSTEM THIS METHOD RELIES ON THE MEASUREMENT OF LENGTH IN FIXED WEIGHTS OF YARN. IT ESTABLISHES A NUMBER OF HANKS (SKEIMS) OF YARN THAT MAKE UP EITHER A POUND OR A KILOGRAM OF YARN MASS. POUNDS ARE USED FOR MEASUREMENT IN ENGLISH SYSTEM AND KILOGRAMS FOR MEASUEMRENT IN METRIC SYSTEM. COTTON COUNT: NUMBER OF HANKS OF 840 YARDS/POUND WOOLEN COUNT: NUMBER OF HANKS OF 1600 YARDS/POUND WORSTED COUNT: NUMBER OF HANKS OF 560 YARDS/POUND METRIC COUNT: NUMBER OF HANKS OF 1000 METRES/KILOGRAM

YARN TWIST ALL STAPLE YARNS AND SME FILAMENT YARNS HAVE TWIST TO HOLD THE DIBRES TOGETHER. THE DEGREE OF TWIST GIVEN TO A YARN AFFECTS THE NUMBER OF ASPECTS OF ITS APPEARANCE, BEHAVIUOR AND DURABILITY. THE “ASTM” STANDARD DEFINITON OF TWIST IS THE NUMBER OF TURNS ABOUT ITS AXIS/UNIT LENGTH OBSERVED IN A YARN OR OTHER TEXTILE STRAND. TWIST MAYBE EXPRESSED AS “TPM” OR “TPCM” OR “TPI” EFFECT OF TWIST INCREASED TWIST DECREASES APPARENT YARN SIZE, INCREASES ATRENGHT OPTO A CERTAIN POINT, ELASTICITY IS INCREASED. ABRASION RESISTANCE IS INCREASED BY HIGHER NUMBER OF TWISTS.

DIRECTION OF TWIST TEXTILE FIBRES CAN BE TWISTED IN EITHER RIGHT OR LEFT. IN TEXTILE INDUSTRY TERMINOLOGY IS CALLED “S” OR “Z” TWIST. Z TWISTED YARN ARE TWISTED SO THAT THE DIRECTION OF THE TWIST FOLLOWS THE CENTER BAR OF HE LETTER Z. IT IS ALSO KNOWN AS RIGHT TWIST. IN S TWIST YARN THE TWIST DIRECTION FOLLOWS THE CENTER BAR OF LETTER S. IT IS ALSO KNOWN AS LEFT TWIST. MOST YARNS ARE MADE WITH A Z TWIST. HOWEVER IN CERTAIN FABRIC CONSTRUCTION SPECIAL EFFECT CAN BE ACHIEVED BY COMBINIG YARNS IN WHICH FIBRES HAVE BEEN TWISTED EITHER THR SAME OR OPPOSITE DIRECTION.

YARN STRENGTH THE STRETCHING OR TENSILE FORCE REQUIRED TO BREAK A YARN IS CALED TENSILE STRENGTH. TENACITY OF YARN IS STRENGTH RELATIVE TO LINEAR DENSITY AND IS MEASURED IN GRAMS/TEX OR GRAMS/DENEIR. A STRONGER FIBRE PRODUCES A STRONGER YARN, WHICH IN TURN PRODUCES A STRONGER FABRIC. THE STRENGTH OF COTTON FIBRE IS DETERMINED IN BUNDLE FORM WITH THE HELP OF FIBRE STRENGTH TESTER.