Woven pile fabric By shilpi akhter Assistant professor Fabric manufacturing department BUTex

Woven pile fabric Pile fabrics are characterized by the brush like surface formed by the tufts of warp or weft cut threads. The brush like surface is formed by a set of threads which project at right angles from a foundation or ground structure and form a pile or loop on the surface. Cutting the looped threads can be done either on the loom or the machines of the fabric finishing department. Such fabrics should be distinguished from the others which become a pile after passing through a raising machine or after electrical flocking.

Classification of pile fabric Weft pile fabric(velveteen) warp pile fabric(velvet) All over or plain 1.Terry piles Weft plushes 2. wire piles Figure velveteens (i) fast structure Corded velveteens or (ii) loose structure corduroys fustains

Weft pile fabrics These fabrics incorporate two types of weft and one type of warp threads. A drop box is necessary, if the pile weft differs in count or colour from the ground weft. Weft pile fabrics contain a much greater proportion of weft threads as compared to warp threads. High density of weft picks which in the finest fabrics may reach 200 picks per cm. The high weft thread density is possible by having a low warp sett with higher tension of warp.

Weft pile fabrics 6. Due to the high warp tension, positive shedding mechanisms are used. 7. Highest qualities of cloth require specially constructed heavy weaving machinery. 8. Low and medium quality cloth can be produced on high speed automatic looms using reeds with special deep dent wires. Picks per cm. 50 to 100. 9. They have long floats of weft which may be cut or uncut. Satin or warp rib is used. Plain is used for ground. 10. cotton, rayon, worsted or mohair may be used. 11. Ring yarn is used.

Well known weft pile fabrics corduroy : fine rib quality , used for women’s wear. Baby roy : very fine rib quality , used for women’s blouses. Velveteen : there is pile over the entire fabric surface but the pile not forms ribs on the fabric surface like corduroy. Manchester : weft pile fabric , closely woven fabric , used for trouser. Stretch cord : weft pile fabric with a great number of elastomeric yarns in the warp. So the fabric is elastic in length wise and mainly used for ladies dress.

Velveteen fabrics Velveteen and weft plush are produced with floats of such a length and closeness that when cut and brushed they produce an all over effect. A twill back velveteen is more durable than a plain back. Durability also depends on the way in which the pile is held to the ground. Pile is not higher than 1/8”.

Classification of velveteen All over or plain velveteen : in which the surface is uniformly covered by the pile. Weft plushes : the surface is uniformly covered by the pile but arranged to produce much longer tufts , used for upholstery purposes. Corded velveteens : the piles run in orderly vertical cords of varying width. Figured velveteens : pile figure is produced.

Float cutting principle Once pile was cut by hand with a thin steel blade. In machine cutting thin, flexible metal bands are inserted between the floats and the base fabric ,then circular metal knives cut down the centers of the floats over the metal band. The blades cut the floats without damage to the base fabric. Another machine is equipped with a great number of needles with knives. For every rib to be cut, a separate needle with knife is used.