Apparel Value Chains and Opportunities to Create Jobs in the TPP Toni Dembski-Brandl Target Corporation, on behalf of the TPP Apparel Coalition September Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

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The Coalition supports the negotiation of a 21st Century TPP agreement, which offers a potential growth platform for economic integration, trade and investment that could provide tremendous new opportunities for our members to buy and sell goods and services, to sustain and grow well-paying jobs and to provide high value add for the U.S. and TPP economies. 3 Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

Before 1995: Managed through global system of quotas – Multi-Fiber Arrangement (MFA) – 2004:Phased transition to quota-free trade – Agreement on Textiles and Clothing – 2008:Special China Safeguards. 2009:Full integration into global trade system. 4 Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

5 Why Does a Yarn Forward Rule of Origin Not Work in Today’s Global Supply Chains? Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

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 The value chain describes the full range of activities that firms and workers do to bring a product from its conception to the final customer.  This includes activities such as design, production, marketing, distribution, retail and support to the final customer.  When considering ways to create new opportunities in the TPP for apparel, it is important to keep in mind the value and jobs created throughout the entire value chain, not just factory production. 7 Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

8 How a garment is produced How a garment is produced from a trade agreement perspective R&D, Design Garment 2.Legal Reviews 3.Order Garment and Inputs 4.Make/Ship Yarn 5.Make/Ship Fabric 6.Make/Ship Garment 7.Distribute Garment 8.Market Garment 9.Sell Garment Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

 Garments could be made in a TPP country from imported fabric that uses TPP yarns.  Garments could be made in a TPP country from imported yarns used to make fabric in a TPP country.  Garments could be made in a TPP country from imported fabric.  Garments could be designed and marketed and sold in a TPP country, creating additional jobs.  The ex-factory value of the garment is only a small percentage of the retail value—on average about 25-35%. 9 Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

 A yarn forward rule of origin is too narrowly focused on this small percentage of value that comes from the factory, while ignoring the majority of the retail value.  The TPP Apparel Coalition believes TPP negotiators should embrace a modern textiles and apparel policy that facilitates the millions of jobs that are sustained by today’s global value chains.  Flexible rules of origin based on either a change in tariff heading (CTH) or a regional value-content (RVC) requirement would be most effective to spur new investment in the TPP region. 10 Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

11 Inputs (US, TPP, or Other) -Labor -Yarns/Fabrics -Sewing Thread -Buttons -Label -Embroidery Thread -Finishes -Packaging Rest of the Picture (US) -R&D -Design -Legal/Compliance -Shipping -Distribution -Merchandising -Retail Operations 25% 75% Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

 Despite the significant value add within the TPP region, under a restrictive yarn forward rule of origin, the jeans couldn’t qualify for duty-free treatment.  TPP negotiators must create simple and understandable rules for eligibility to encourage more trade in the region.  Today’s consumers expect a wide variety of fashionable apparel and flexibility in sourcing inputs is necessary to meet design specifications and consumer demands. 12 Toni Dembski-Brandl on Behalf of TPP Apparel Coalition

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