LESSON – 26 ADAPTATION OF TROUSERS BLOCK IN DESIGNER BLOCK

ADAPTATION OF TROUSERS BLOCK IN DESIGNER TROUSERS 1. TROUSERS WITH PLEATED WAIST LINE Method : - Trace front part of trousers block – cut across knee line – divide top section along grain line up to knee – open 3.5 cm (or as desire ) at waist line ; mark point A and B Extend waistline by 3 cm to C at side seam – Join C to knee line ( continue…)

Trace round topside – mark A-B as pleat – B-D is 5 cm ; D-E is 3 cm ; mark D-E as pleat

2. TROUSERS WITH EXTRA FULLNESS Method : - (A) : Trace back part of trousers block – mark point 23, 21 and 24 – mark point A and B on seat line – open a wedge between sections so that B – D is 3 cm and A – C is 6 cm Draw a new out line- reduce the width of the trousers leg by 2 cm at hem line on both sides ( continue…)

23 - E and A-F is 1 cm – 21 – G id 0.5 cm – draw a new fork line E,F G – join E to knee line 24 – H is 0.5 cm – D – I is 1 cm; draw in new side seam – from H to knee line ( B ) : Trace front from trousers block – mark points 9, 10 – cut across knee line – divide front section along grain line – open 5 cm at waist- extend waist line 4 cm to J – 10 to K and J – L is 3 cm draw in new waist line K – L Mark M on the grain line – M – N as a pleat- draw in more two pleats 3 cm pleats as shown ( continue…)

4 cm between each pleat Draw in new outline ; reduce the width of the trousers leg by 2 cm at hem line on both sides Join L to knee line; extend front fork line, 9 -0 is 1 cm ; join 0 to knee line

3. JEANS or SLIMLINE TROUSERS : - Method : - Lower the block waist line with 2 – 4 cm-

Trace off the basic trouser block – mark points A,B,C,D on hem line – 1.5 cm on from leg seam – square up to E,F,G,H on knee line – mark points I,J,K,L on side seam and fork lines 4 cm down from waistline – join I-J and K-L BACK : Mark point M and N on seat line – cut along seat line and open a 3.5 cm wedge at M-O – P-Q is 2 cm – M-R is 0.75 cm – draw in new fork line Q, R,O,I - JOIN Q –E AND N-F with curved lines – add 5 cm hem allowance ( continue…)

FRONT : Mark points S and T on seat line- L- U is 1.5 cm – join U-T – construct a dart at V on grain line, 7 cm long ; 1.5 cm wide – mark point W at fork line – W- X is 0.5 cm – join X-G with a curved line Draw in new side seam – U,T,H,D making a curve from T-H