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Ocean Waves and Tides. Waves A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy.

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Presentation on theme: "Ocean Waves and Tides. Waves A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy."— Presentation transcript:

1 Ocean Waves and Tides

2 Waves A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. A Wave is a rhythmic movement that carries energy through matter or space. In oceans, waves move through seawater In oceans, waves move through seawater

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4 Waves Caused by: Wind Wind Earthquakes Earthquakes Gravitational force of the Moon and Sun. Gravitational force of the Moon and Sun.

5 Parts of a Wave Crest – highest point of a wave Crest – highest point of a wave Trough – lowest point of a wave Trough – lowest point of a wave Wave Height – vertical distance between the crest and the trough Wave Height – vertical distance between the crest and the trough Wavelength – horizontal distance between two crests or two troughs Wavelength – horizontal distance between two crests or two troughs

6 Wavelength Wave Height Crest Trough Still Water Wave Parts

7 Wave Movement When a wave passes through the ocean, individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward. When a wave passes through the ocean, individual water molecules move up and down but they do not move forward or backward.

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9 How to find the speed of a specific wave Wave length (m) / wave period (s) = wave speed in m/s

10 Sample problem If a wave has a wavelength of 10 M and takes 5 sec. to move a specific distance what is the wave speed? If a wave has a wavelength of 10 M and takes 5 sec. to move a specific distance what is the wave speed?

11 Tide’s There are 4 tides per day (24 hours) There are 4 tides per day (24 hours) 2 high tides 2 high tides 2 low tides 2 low tides A tide cycle happens approx. every 6 hours A tide cycle happens approx. every 6 hours

12 Sample problem If sandy is at the beach and low tide is coming in at 9:35 AM, when is the next High Tide? Low tide? If sandy is at the beach and low tide is coming in at 9:35 AM, when is the next High Tide? Low tide?

13 Wave Movement When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses. When a wave breaks against the shore, the crest outruns the trough and the crest collapses. Called a breaker. Called a breaker. In this case, water does move forward and backward. In this case, water does move forward and backward.

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15 Waves Caused by Wind When wind blows across a body of water, friction causes the water to move along with the wind. When wind blows across a body of water, friction causes the water to move along with the wind. Wave Height depends on – Wave Height depends on – –Wind speed –Distance over which the wind blows –Length of time the wind blows

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19 Tides The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide. The rise and fall in sea level is called a tide. One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes about 12 hrs and 25 min. One low-tide/high-tide cycle takes about 12 hrs and 25 min. Tidal range is the difference in ocean level between high-tide and low-tide Tidal range is the difference in ocean level between high-tide and low-tide

20 What is the Tidal Range? HT = 30 ft, LT = 20 ft HT = 30 ft, LT = 20 ft HT = 20 ft, LT = 12 ft HT = 20 ft, LT = 12 ft HT = 50 ft, LT = 20 ft HT = 50 ft, LT = 20 ft

21 Gravitational Effect of the Moon Two big bulges of water form on the Earth: Two big bulges of water form on the Earth: –one directly under the moon –another on the exact opposite side As the Earth spins, the bulges follow the moon. As the Earth spins, the bulges follow the moon.

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23 Gravitational Effect of the Sun Spring Tides Spring Tides –Earth, Moon, and Sun are lined up –High Tides are higher and Low Tides are lower than normal

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25 Gravitational Effect of the Sun Neap Tides Neap Tides –Earth, Moon, and Sun form right angles –High Tides are lower and Low Tides are higher than normal

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27 HW Page 377. Questions 1-4


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