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SIO Waves & Beaches Core Observations & Predictions of  Nearshore waves  Surfzone currents  Beach change Regional Coastal Ocean Observing Systems Integrated.

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Presentation on theme: "SIO Waves & Beaches Core Observations & Predictions of  Nearshore waves  Surfzone currents  Beach change Regional Coastal Ocean Observing Systems Integrated."— Presentation transcript:

1 SIO Waves & Beaches Core Observations & Predictions of  Nearshore waves  Surfzone currents  Beach change Regional Coastal Ocean Observing Systems Integrated Observations & Predictions of  Physical,  Chemical, and  Biological properties of the coastal ocean. State and Federal Agencies  NOAA/NWS/NCEP  USACE  USGS  FEMA Private Sector Businesses  Engineering firms  Marine weather providers General Public  Coastal Safety  Coastal Planning  Marine Navigation  Marine Recreation

2 SIO Waves and Beaches Model Prediction (MOP) System Wave Monitoring  Wave Buoy Network  NOAA WW3 Forecasts Surfzone Monitoring  Current Measurements  Dye/Drifter Tracking  Jetski Sand level Surveys Beach Modeling  Beach width change  Inundation levels Coastal Wave Modeling  Breaking wave heights  Radiation stresses (Sxx,Sxy) Beach Monitoring  LIDAR  ATV Sand level surveys Surfzone Modeling  Current Direction & Speed  Bottom Velocities Public Access To Core Coastal Environment Variables Via “MOP Sites”

3 Alongcoast Model Prediction “MOP” Sites - 10m water depth. - 100m alongshore spacing.

4 CA Counties with Operational MOP Wave Information

5 Each MOP Site also has an associated cross-shore MOP Transect and MOP Polygon.

6 Predicted surfzone averaged alongshore currents will be provided for each MOP transect on a relatively straight beach without obstructions. A seasonal cross-shore bathymetry profile is assumed if there is no recent survey data. MOP Alongshore Currents

7 MOP Site Inundation Predicted Inundation Elevations will be provided for transects with simple shoreline profiles Known elevation that results in parking lot flooding at this location

8 Each MOP Polygon contains a set of MOP Sandboxes.

9 Torrey Pines (MOP SD0584) Beach Width Change Width Change (m) Date model measured MOP Beach Width Change A data-adaptive cross-shore radiation stress (Sxx) model will provide beach change predictions for MOP Polygons with sufficient beach survey information.


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