1. Instructors: George Crowl
ORD-8
Ordinary
Anchoring
This and other plans are for Sea Scout and leaders to teach maritime and leadership skills. They are based on the 2010 Sea Scout Manual and requirements. Some lessons have an accompanying PowerPoint presentation. I consider PowerPoint an introduction the topic, to be followed by hands-on practice. Several lessons will not have PowerPoint, usually because it is my judgement that PowerPoint is not an appropriate aid to teaching that lesson. Lesson plans and presentations will be added and modified when ready.
Each plan and presentation has the rank, requirement number and short name. LP means lesson plan, PPT means PowerPoint. APP means Apprentice, the number is the number of the requirement. ORD = Ordinary. ABL = Able. QM = Quartermaster. There are a few miscellaneous items as well.
I created these lesson plans primarily for the Houston area Sea Scout Academy. However, I hope that they are also useful for other Sea Scout situations and venues. So, I expect everyone using the lesson plans to modify them to fit their audience and their style. There are also other resources in the DVD with the Sea Scout Manual, and on
I invite comments from those that use these lesson plans, so we can have continuous improvement. If you are aware of a better example, or a great illustration that is not in them, please send them to me for inclusion. Especially, if I miss applying a change from the Sea Scout Manual, Guide to Safe Scouting, or a Coast Guard publication, please contact me so we can keep these current and accurate.
You may contact me at or George Crowl; Skipper, Ship 1996; Sam Houston Area Council
This PowerPoint is provided for those who may not have appropriate training aids available in a ship or location. This generally follows a companion lesson plan available at I expect you to modify it to fit your situation and teaching style. I am more concerned that Scouts learn than this fit a specific style. I am, however, a fan of the Effective Teaching model. Teaching EDGE is somewhat simplistic in its approach, but that has some advantages.
Philosophy: Sea Scout Academy’s primary purpose is to teach the material to the Sea Scout. If the Sea Scout demonstrates mastery of parts of the subject, then the instructor should annotate on the class roster what has been passed, in the instructor’s opinion. Skippers have the right to re-examine any Sea Scout in any requirement. (Knots are not a good subject to give a pass in.)
Instructors: George Crowl

2. Course Outline
a. Name the parts of a stock anchor and a stockless anchor
b. Describe five types of anchors. Describe how each type holds the bottom, the kind of bottom in which it holds best, and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
c. Calculate the amount of anchor rode necessary to your ship's primary vessel in the following depths: 10, 20, and 30 feet in normal and storm conditions.
d. Demonstrate the ability to set and weigh anchor.
Requirements:
Reference: See "Ground Tackle" on page 147.
Equipment Required: Ship 24 has miniature anchors and a sandbox for demonstration. Need as many different real anchors as possible. Strongly recommend having a real Danforth. Boat(s) with anchor(s) for weighing and setting anchor.
Ratio: 1:6 Instructor:Student, youth make good assistants.

3. ORD-8a Name the parts of a stock anchor and a stockless anchor
Definition: Stockless anchor does not have a “stock” crosspiece, and may be pulled up into the hawsepipes until the flukes meet the hull.
Parts of an anchor. Discuss the parts of an anchor first, so the students understand the language used. Identify the differences between a stock anchor and a stockless anchor.
Shank
Stock
Flukes
Crown
Palm
Blade
Etc.

4. Stock Anchor Parts
Stock Anchor Parts – some of these apply to stockless as well
Admiralty or Yachtsman's anchor on left, Danforth on right.
Shank – connects the rode end to the crown
Crown - “bottom” end
Stock – crosspiece that sets the flukes in position to dig in. Note that the Admiralty stock can be moved to make the anchor more storeable.
Arm – from the crown to the fluke
Fluke – the part that digs into the ground
Palm – inside of the fluke
Pee or Bill – point of the fluke
Key – holds the stock
Ring – Attaches the chain or rode
Balancing band – allows the anchor to be lifted horizontally
Tripping ring – allows the anchor to be lifted out from the bottom, reducing the stress of “breaking it out.”

5. Stockless Anchor Parts
Stockless Anchor Parts – Those that are duplicates of stock anchor parts will not be repeated. Note that while the same names are used, usage is slightly different.
Shoulder – the edge of the crown
The Scout should be able to make the transition in names from the stock to the stockless anchor.
Having actual examples on hand is useful.

6. ORD-8b
Describe five types of anchors. Describe how each type holds the bottom, the kind of bottom in which it holds best, and the advantages and disadvantages of each type.
Types of anchors. Use the miniature anchors and sandbox to demonstrate the types of anchors. Use real anchors as available. Emphasize the Danforth anchor advantages and disadvantages, since it is the most common one in SHAC fleet.
Danforth: Strong holding power, stock at bottom
Plow or CQR: No stock, rarely fouls, harder to stow
Bruce or Claw: Sets quickly, handles turns
Mushroom: For permanent moorings, must be heavy
Grapnel: Temporary. Retrieves lost gear.
Homemade: Only for very small boat in calm water
Navy: For large ships, very heavy, not effective for small craft
Sea anchor: For use in heavy weather at sea

7. Danforth Anchor Buries well, high resistance to dragging.
Not good in weed, gravel. Can hook in rock, coral.
Can “skate” over ground.
Tends to break out with large direction change.
American Richard Danforth invented the Danforth pattern in the 1940s for use aboard landing craft. It uses a stock at the crown to which two large flat triangular flukes are attached. The stock is hinged so the flukes can orient toward the bottom (and on some designs may be adjusted for an optimal angle depending on the bottom type). Tripping palms at the crown act to tip the flukes into the seabed. The design is a burying variety, and once well set can develop high resistance. Its lightweight and compact flat design make it easy to retrieve and relatively easy to store; some anchor rollers and hawsepipes can accommodate a fluke-style anchor.
A Danforth will not usually penetrate or hold in gravel or weeds. In boulders and coral it may hold by acting as a hook. If there is much current, or if the vessel is moving while dropping the anchor, it may "kite" or "skate" over the bottom due to the large fluke area acting as a sail or wing. Once set, the anchor tends to break out and reset when the direction of force changes dramatically, such as with the changing tide, and on some occasions it might not reset but instead drag.[7]R

8. CQR or Plow Good in all bottoms, not great in any bottom.
Hinged shank less likely to break out.
Stowed on roller at bow.
CQR (secure) plough anchor[edit]
So named due to its resemblance to a traditional agricultural plough (or more specifically two ploughshares), many manufacturers produce a plough-style design, all based on or direct copies of the original CQR (Secure), a 1933 design patented in the UK (US patent in 1934[5]) by mathematician Geoffrey Ingram Taylor.[6] Ploughs are popular with cruising sailors and other private boaters. They are generally good in all bottoms, but not exceptional in any. The CQR design has a hinged shank, allowing the anchor to turn with direction changes rather than breaking out, while other plough types have a rigid shank. Plough anchors are usually stowed in a roller at the bow.
Owing to the use of lead or other dedicated tip-weight, the plough is heavier than average for the amount of resistance developed, and may take more careful technique and a longer period to set thoroughly. It cannot be stored in a hawsepipe.

9. Claw or Bruce Sets quickly in most seabeds.
Handles change of wind and tide well.
Difficulty with weeds and grass.
Need to be bigger to have same holding power.
Bruce or claw anchor
This claw-shaped anchor was designed by Peter Bruce from the Isle of Man in the 1970s.[13] Bruce gained his early reputation from the production of large-scale commercial anchors for ships and fixed installations such as oil rigs. The Bruce and its copies, known generically as "claws", have become a popular option for small boaters. It was intended to address some of the problems of the only general-purpose option then available, the plough. Claw-types set quickly in most seabeds and although not an articulated design, they have the reputation of not breaking out with tide or wind changes, instead slowly turning in the bottom to align with the force.
Claw types have difficulty penetrating weedy bottoms and grass. They offer a fairly low holding-power-to-weight ratio and generally have to be oversized to compete with newer types.[citation needed] On the other hand they have a good reputation in boulder bottoms, perform relatively well with low rode scopes and set fairly reliably. They cannot be used with hawsepipes.R

10. Navy Anchor Fits in a hawsepipe. Relies on weight to hold.
Usually too heavy for modern cruising.
A traditional type of anchor favoured because it easily fits into its hawsepipe against the side of ships. It relies mostly on it's heavy weight to hold. Navy anchors are not much use in modern yachts because they need to be very heavy to be effective.

11. Admiralty or Yachtman's
Penetrates weed and grass.
Softer bottoms, hard sand. Fluke size varies.
Need to be heavier than modern anchors.
Kedge anchor on right, lighter.
Kedge, Hereshoff, Fisherman and Yachtsman, Admiralty Pattern
Softer bottoms, hard sand, Rocks and Coral, Weeds
Used for centuries they are the traditional anchor shape we are used to. Modern kedge style anchors are lighter and have been adapted for specialized use. Sharp bills and small flukes hold better in hard sand. Broader flukes and larger arms hold better in soft bottoms or rocks and coral. Kedge anchors are often used successfully in heavy vegetation.
A more specialized anchor. When not used in specialized conditions, Kedge anchors should be heavier (sometime much heavier) than modern anchors to hold as well.

12. Mushroom Anchor Permanent Excellent holding power
Does come in smaller sizes!
Does not work well in weedy / rocky bottoms where it cannot sink below ground
Mushroom Anchor
Silt, Mud, mushroom
Permanent
Most often used as permanent mooring anchor. This style of anchor is designed to gradually dig itself deeper and once imbedded has excellent holding ability. It usually goes down. They are useful for anchoring racing marks. They do not hold very well until they are imbedded in the bottom. After imbedding they can have a holding power of as much as ten times its weight.
The Mushroom Anchor does not work in weedy or rocky bottoms where it can't bury itself.

13. Grapnel Anchor Best: coral, stone, heavy weeds. Lightweight.
Some are folding.
Might be used where anchor is required, but seldom used.
Can be used to drag the bottom for an object.
Grapnel
Coral, Stone, heavy weeds
Grapnel type anchors are useful in coral or where the flukes can grip something. Grapnel are less useful in mud or sand. Grapnel anchors are often used in dinghies or where their light weight or small size is an asset. Folding models and grapnels that come apart are available. Not for serious anchoring unless the bottom can be hooked. Sometimes useful when there is heavy vegetation and the thin flukes can penetrate while the outside ones grab vegetation.
Grapnel anchors are often seen where there is a legal requirement for an anchor but they are not likely to be used often, such as on dinghies. Tends to snag its rode at every turn!

14. Homemade Anchor Usually depends on weight.
Notice susceptability to rode chafing
OK for very small boats in smooth conditions only R

15. Sea Anchor Parachute or cone Hold bow to wind and waves
Deployed in storm conditions
Can be hard to deploy or recover
What are Drogues and Sea Anchors?
Drogues and Sea Anchors are devices which are used in open water conditions where anchoring is not possible, or in conditions where anchoring is not desirable. Drogues and Sea Anchors help stop the drift of a boat in difficult conditions including high wind or when there are large breaking waves. They can also be useful to help control a towed boat or a boat with damaged steering. They are deployed from the bow or stern of a boat and their effect is due to the drag they have.
What is a Sea Anchor?
A SEA ANCHOR is designed to stop the drift of a boat in open water. Sea anchors are usually deployed from the bow of a ship. They are often shaped like large parachutes.
What is a Drogue?
A Drogue is a device designed to slow down or help control the drift of a boat. It is not intended to stop most of the drift but rather to slow the boat down by pulling from the stern. Deploying a drogue not only has the effect of slowing down the boat and but it also helps keep it properly aligned thus improving control and safety. Drogues are usually deployed from the Stern.

16. ORD-8c
Calculate the amount of anchor rode necessary to your ship's primary vessel in the following depths: 10, 20, and 30 feet in normal and storm conditions.
Scope. A minimum scope of 7:1 for normal or up to 10:1 or even higher for storm is used. The scope ratio is the ratio between the distance from the bow or hawse hole to the bottom (i.e. bow three feet above water, plus 10 foot water depth equals 13 feet) and the total line paid out (in this case, at least 101 feet).
10 feet of water + 3 feet freeboard = 13 feet X 7 (scope) = 91 ft. Scope 10 = 130 feet.
20 feet of water + 3 feet freeboard = 23 feet X 7 (scope) = 161 ft. Scope 10 = 230 feet.
30 feet of water + 3 feet freeboard = 33 feet X 7 (scope) = 231 ft. Scope 10 = 330 feet.R

17. Normal vs. Storm Conditions
Lunch hook – Scope = 5X
Normal conditions – Scope = 7X
Storm conditions – Scope = 10X
A lunch hook is just what it says, stopping for lunch in calm seas/

18. What is X? X = depth of water + height of bow above water
Nominal 30' sloop has a bow about 3 feet above water
Galveston Bay has normal 10 foot water depth
= X 13 = 91 feet. 10 X 13 = 130 feet.
This shows the calculation principles. If you are using a different vessel or different location, change this slide to show what you need.

19. What is value for 20 foot depth?
The previous slide showed the calculations for 10 feet water depth and 3 foot bow. Have the students do the calculations for 20 feet. For the nominal 3' bow height, the answers are 161 and 230 feet.

20. What is value for 30 foot depth?
The previous slide showed the calculations for 20 feet water depth and 3 foot bow. Have the students do the calculations for 30 feet. For the nominal 3' bow height, the answers are 231 and 330 feet.

21. ORD-8d Demonstrate the ability to set and weigh anchor.
Set and Weigh. This exercise may be done in rowboats, powerboats, or sailboats. Sailboats will take the longest time to do properly, since doing it under sail takes a longer time. Have the students determine wind and current direction. Explain why they want to drop anchor on the upwind or upcurrent edge of the anchoring area. Have them do so, then have them set the anchor by reversing direction downwind or downcurrent. Then have them recover the anchor by going up with bow to the wind until the anchor breaks out of the ground. Each should function as anchor deploy/recover and as helm.
The information below comes primarily from

22. Anchoring 1. Prepare in advance 2. Pick your spot carefully
3. Approach slowly
4. Lower, do not drop, the anchor
5. Set the anchor
6. Pay out the proper scope
7. Check the anchor periodically
Good anchoring technique is crucial for safety.
Yet all too often even some experienced sailors are in too much of a hurry and skip one of the important steps for anchoring securely. Some new sailors never learn the essentials and just toss the anchor overboard and assume they’ll be fine.
But it is not difficult to anchor correctly and securely in most conditions. Follow these guidelines to help ensure your boat is safely anchored so you can get a good night’s sleep.
1. Prepare in Advance
Pick your anchorage carefully using an updated chart and paying attention to conditions, including wind direction and speed, likely tidal or other currents, and the forecast. Pay special attention to the chances for a shift in wind direction or speed. If your boat is pulled in the opposite direction during the night because of a reversing tidal current or wind, the anchor may be pulled out.
The ideal anchorage area should have some protection from the wind and waves and not be against a lee shore in case the anchor drags. The ideal bottom is sand or mud, not rock or heavy seaweed or grass. Most cruising guides and some charts show good anchorages that are protected and have good holding ground. Charts also show bottom characteristics when known.
Get the anchor ready before making your approach. Whether on a bow roller or lowered by hand from the bow, make sure the anchor rode is free to run. If the anchor rode is not marked at progressive depths with tags or color codes, stretch it out back and forth on deck so that you know how much rode you are letting out when anchoring. To be safe, plan to put out a rode about 7 times the water depth (counting the height of your bow over the water) at high tide.

23. 2. Pick Your Spot Carefully
After studying the chart and choosing a general protected area, look for a spot with the right depth: from a few feet deeper than the draft of your boat (at low tide) to as deep as feet if necessary—if you have at least feet of anchor rode.
Make sure you are well clear of any channel regardless of how the boat swings with wind shifts, and that there are no hazards if your boat were to swing in a full circle around the anchor.
When other boats are already anchored nearby, follow good anchoring etiquette to stay safe without risking collision or entanglement. The general rule is that the first boat in an anchorage can choose its spot at will and each subsequent boat must stay clear of others already present.
Calculate how much swinging room you may need if the wind changes, based on how much anchor rode you will pay out according to the water depth. If possible, make sure your swinging circle does not overlap with any other boat’s swinging room.
In a crowded anchorage where your swinging room may have to overlap another boat’s, choose a spot among similar boats. Most cruising sailboats with a keel will swing in the same direction at the same time and therefore should not collide if not positioned too close together. But a shallow-draft powerboat will swing on the wind differently from a keel sailboat, increasing the risk of collision if their swinging circles overlap.

24. 3. Approach Slowly
Although you can learn to anchor under sail, most cruising boats lower or furl the sails before making the approach into the anchorage, and anchor under power. Using the engine also gives you more control if a last-minute maneuver is needed.
Approach your planned spot into the wind, keeping an eye on your depthfinder or chartplotter to ensure you are where you want to be on the chart. If there is a strong current in the area that affects the boat more than the wind, approach into the current instead.
As you near the spot, slow down to allow the boat to coast to a stop. If you come in fast and have to use the engine in reverse to stop, there’s a good chance the boat may pivot or turn during the reversing, and the boat then will not at first pull directly back on the anchor. There’s seldom any reason to be in a hurry at this point.
Double-check to make sure you are not too close to another boat and are at the intended depth. If you decide you need to move to either side, circle back around to make your approach again to the new spot upwind or current.

25. 4. Lower, Don’t Drop, the Anchor
Wait until the person at the helm says the boat has stopped completely and is starting to move backward on the wind or current before lowering the anchor. (Watch your GPS speed if you’re not sure.) If the boat is still moving ahead, you may accidentally set the anchor in the wrong direction by pulling it ahead instead of drifting back to set it.
It is important to lower the anchor gradually to prevent the anchor rode from falling down on the anchor flukes and possibly fouling the anchor. In that case you may not realize the anchor has not set well, and if the wind comes up later the anchor can easily drag if fouled. Never just toss the anchor over hoping for the best!
You can tell when the anchor reaches the bottom because of the reduced strain on the rode. Pause a moment to let the boat move back and pull the rode tight. If the boat is floating motionless in the absence of wind and current, tell the person at the helm to put the engine in reverse to start the boat backward. Your goal here is to align the anchor correctly on the bottom, with its shank pulled back in the direction in which the boat will lie at anchor. Otherwise, the anchor chain may foul the shank or flukes and prevent the anchor from setting well.

26. 5. Set the Anchor
Making sure the anchor is well set (that is, dug in well in the bottom) is the most important part of anchoring. The anchor holds the boat by digging its flukes into the bottom, not by just lying there like a weight on the bottom. If the anchor is not set, the boat may seem well anchored until the wind comes up—when the anchor will then bounce along the bottom as the boat drags toward a hazard.
As the boat moves backwards due to wind, current, or the engine’s power in reverse, gradually pay out the rode. Always keep a light tension on the line, but don’t yet clinch it tight. (If you tighten the rode too soon, the anchor will be pulled upward and out of the bottom and will not set.)
Visualize the anchor rode pulling straight back on the anchor shank as the point(s) of the anchor fluke(s) dig in. If your anchor rode is all chain or has a section of chain at the anchor, the pull will be more nearly horizontal along the bottom. This is how anchors are designed to dig in and hold.
When you have about 3 times as much anchor rode out as the water depth (a scope of 3 to 1), temporarily cleat or cinch the anchor rode at the bow and let it pull tight. Keep a hand on the rode to feel the tension. The boat should stop and the rode feel very tight, indicating the anchor has set. If the anchor has not set, you will feel the tension in the rode come and go or feel its pull changing as the anchor bounces along the bottom.
If the anchor has set, continue with the next step of paying out scope. If it has not set, you can also continue but must be very careful to ensure the anchor digs in when you have the proper scope. If the anchor has not set yet with about a 3 to 1 scope, many sailors prefer to hoist it now and try again rather than letting out more anchor rode and having to bring it all back up to try again later.

27. 6. Pay Out the Proper Scope
Continue paying out the rode as the boat moves backward, until you reach the desired scope. Many factors affect the scope needed, including the type of boat, the type of anchor, whether the rode is all chain or a combination of chain and line, the characteristics of the bottom, and the wind predicted.
As a general rule, most cruisers prefer a scope of 7 to 1 for safe anchoring overnight. For a lunch stop in a calm anchorage, a scope of 5 to 1 or less may be sufficient, assuming someone stays on the boat in case the wind increases dramatically. With higher winds or big waves, a scope as high as 10 to 1 may be appropriate. Remember that the scope should be based on the high tide water depth. If you anchor at low tide in 10 feel of water and the depth 6 hours later is 20 feet, your scope then would be only half of what it was.
Once you have the proper scope, back down hard on the anchor using the boat's engine to ensure it is well set. The rode should be very tight and not give at all while backing.
Scope can be adjusted later if conditions change, simply by letting out more rode if desired. This increases your swinging distance, of course, so you should confirm you will remain far enough away from other boats or hazards.

28. 7. Check the Anchor Periodically
Even when you’re sure the anchor is well set, changing conditions can result in the anchor dragging. Before relaxing completely for the night, make sure you can tell later on if the boat is dragging.
Your GPS or plotter can reveal changes of position, although small changes may not be noticeable or may be interpreted as just swinging in a different direction. If possible, take sightings on at least two features on shore (choose something that will be visible at night) and note the compass bearings to each. If these bearings change significantly later, you may be dragging. A smartphone or tablet app like My Anchor Watch can also help ensure you know it if your anchor is starting to drag.
Another technique used by old-timers is to let down a small second anchor or weight from the stern just to the point where it rests on the bottom, and then drape it over the boom and dangle a noise-maker like a bucket or pot tied to the free end. If the boat moves very far, the line will pull the noisemaker over the boom to clang down into the cockpit, hopefully waking you to take action if needed!
If you suspect you may be dragging, check the anchor rode at the bow. You may feel or see changes in its tension if the anchor is bumping over the bottom. If you have any evidence of dragging, monitor the situation very carefully. In calmer conditions the anchor may reset, but with gusty or heavy winds it will likely not dig in by itself, and you may have to hoist the anchor and move to a new position and start over.
Finally, in an emergency situation if the anchor is dragging or a gale puts you at risk of dragging—particularly against a reef or lee shore—you can avert disaster by running the engine slowly in forward gear to take some of the strain off the anchor rode
A common anchoring problem occurs if the anchor's flukes hook under a rock, chain, or other bottom debris and prevent the anchor from being hoisted. Try backing pulling the anchor up from the opposite direction in an attempt to free it. The best solution is to use a trip line or the AnchorRescue retrieval device to prevent the risk of losing your anchor should it become snagged.
Anchoring involves a number of skills, which improve with experience. Many books have been written on the subject, and when cruising in unfamiliar waters or far from home where you may be caught in a tricky situation, it’s a good idea to have a book on anchoring or seamanship on board to consult for appropriate techniques in unusual circumstances..

29. Weighing Anchor Plan exit – wind, current, other boats
Weigh under power if possible. Don't sheet in sails.
Bring in rode until directly over anchor, break free.
Raise anchor in place
Proceed outbound. Sheet in sails as needed.
Fouled anchor – prevention is best – trip line
Cleat hard, raise bow – OR motor forward
Retrieving your anchor is usually a simple process although it calls for advance planning to avoid problems that can occur. In addition, if the anchor fouls on the bottom and refuses to come up, you need to take additional steps.
Follow these steps to retrieve your anchor safely and without sudden problems when the anchor breaks free:
Plan your approach and exit before getting started. Consider the wind, any current, and the proximity of other anchored boats or obstructions in the area.
When possible, it's safer and easier to weigh anchor under power. If you must raise the anchor under sail, be sure you have a clear path to set sail immediately once the anchor breaks free. Raise the sail(s) before starting, but keep the sheets free so that the sails are not drawing as you manually pull the boat forward by taking in the anchor rode.
Motor slowly toward the anchor, staying downwind, while crew on the bow (or the windlass) brings in the rode. Your goal is to get directly over the anchor before breaking it free.
When the bow of the boat is directly over the anchor and the pull of the rode is straight up, the anchor should break free. Once the crew signals that the anchor is coming up, use the engine to try to keep the boat in the same position until the anchor reaches the boat. If there is too much wind or current to hover in place, turn in your direction of exit but go as slowly as possible.
If under sail, and the boat is facing the wind as the anchor breaks free, wait until the anchor is up and secure before backing the jib or mainsail to turn the bow so you can sail off. If you must sail off only on one particular tack, then back the jib to the other side just before breaking the anchor free, to ensure you'll be going in the right direction.
If you are singlehanded, your goal is to get the anchor up as quickly as possible before the boat drifts into trouble. Never leave the engine in gear if you must go to the bow yourself. If conditions are such that the boat simply will not hold its position long enough to get the anchor aboard, you can cleat the rode temporarily and run back to the engine controls to change direction or motor in reverse to stop movement, then hurry back to the bow to continue raising it. Obviously, if the boat is moving, control its direction toward deeper water so that the anchor does not hit bottom again before you can return to the bow to raise it rest of the way.

30. If the Anchor Is Fouled
A fouled anchor has snagged something on the bottom with its flukes that prevents it from easily breaking free when the rode is pulled straight up. This is usually the worst thing that can happen when attempting to retrieve an anchor.
Prevention is better than having to break free a fouled anchor. In any harbor near a port, especially one where boats may have anchored for a century or more and debris on the bottom is likely, it's best to take steps in advance to prevent fouling. You can rig an anchor trip line or deploy a device like the AnchorRescue, which work by pulling the anchor flukes out backward from the crown.
Without a trip line or other device, first try to use the boat's own buoyancy (rather than your brute strength) to attempt to yank up the anchor; cleat the rode down tight and let waves or the wake of another boat bounce your boat up and down. If you have a number of crew, move everyone forward to lower the bow, cleat the rode tight, and then move everyone aft to see if the pivoting boat can work it free. If that doesn't work, motor ahead slowly pulling the rode from the direction opposite to which the anchor was set.
If all these efforts fail, if the water is not too deep or too cold, it may be possible for someone wearing a dive mask to get down to the anchor to free it. If all else fails, you may have to leave the anchor there, buoyed with a fender or other float, and - if the anchor costs more than a diver - send someone back for it later.

31. Questions? R