1. August 24, 2005 http://cdip.ucsd.edu C OASTAL D ATA I NFORMATION P ROGRAM C OASTAL D ATA I NFORMATION P ROGRAM 1975 - present

2. CDIP was developed with seed money from the California Sea Grant program and the California Department of Boating and Waterways. Mission was to acquire a nearshore wave climatology for the US that would allow coastal practitioners to make more rational design decisions.

3. CDIP Mission Based at SIO 32 Wave Stations 14 People $2.5M+ / year budget Funded by: CDBW USACE (SCCOOS BEACON ONR…) Develop US nearshore wave climatology for more rational design decisions COASTAL DATA INFORMATION PROGRAM

4. 27 Operational CDIP Stations 23 Directional Wave Buoys 2 Pressure sensor stations 2 Anemometers California, Georgia, Guam, Hawaii, Oregon, Washington -------------------------------------------- 150 Historical Stations (1975-present) 63 Wave Buoys 30 Directional Arrays 36 Surge – Inner Harbor 21 Single Point Pressure California, Georgia, Hawaii, Minnesota, North Carolina, Oregon, Virginia, Washington, Guam Approx 300 GB Data Storage

5. Net/Phone/ Wireless Modem Data Transmission Datawell Directional Wave Buoy Data Acquisition System Located at Coast Guard, Harbor Master, Marine Exchange offices Scripps Central Computer Facility - 29 Km max distance from shore HF/FM Transmission Data transferred @ 30 minutes

6. Central Computer Automated Real-Time Processing Time Domain Quality Control Time Series Frequency Domain STORAGE raw spectral parameters WEB UPDATE Real-Time/Historical Pub/Non-Public NWS Transmission Station Specific Requests Error/Diagnostic Statistics Post Processing Inter-comparison of last 24 hours

7. CDIP In-House Diagnostics 2002- Data Collection Coverage Percentages Pt. Reyes – 91.88% La Jolla – 99.66% Torrey Pines I – 99.09% Torrey Pines O – 99.23% Oceanside – 99.29% Harvest – 94.70% San Pedro – 94.95% Dana Point – 99.47% San Pedro – 94.95% Pt Dume – 95.88% Harvest – 94.70% Pt. Reyes – 91.88% Grays Harbor – 87.56%

8. MEASUREMENTS (update @ 30 min) NOWCASTS FORECASTS MODELS

10. Modeling Waves Across the Basin Headland shadowing Islandshadowing Diffractioneffects Amplification over shoals Refractive effects Directional wave buoy to initiate model

11. Northwest Swell West Swell

15. South Swell San Pedro Harbor

16. San Diego Harbor Entrance

17. San Pedro & Long Beach Harbor Entrance 6 Feb 2004 – 1728 PST 31 Jan 2000 – 1257 PST 9 May 2003 – 0645 PST

18. San Francisco Swell Model

19. San Diego Harbor Entrance 8 Mar 2002 – 0916 PST

20. FORECASTS - Local Sea & Swell Prediction Two buoys are used to initialize the model

21. FORECAST MODELS

22. Regional Prediction of Wave-Driven Sand Transport Los Angeles County Coastline

23. Santa Monica Bay Directional Buoy Nearshore Directional wave prediction along the 10m depth contour

25. END USERS - WAVES COMMERCIAL MARINERS RECREATIONAL MILITARY & GOV

26. In-Situ ATV & JetSki Surveys: San Onofre and Torrey Pines LIDAR CDIP Wave Buoys SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDY (SCBPS)

27. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDY SCRIPPS INSTITUTION OF OCEANOGRAPHY UNIVERSITY OF CALIFORNIA, SAN DIEGO Objectives Monitor beach sand levels, cliff erosion, and waves Monitor beach sand levels, cliff erosion, and waves Relate spatial patterns of erosion and wave activity Relate spatial patterns of erosion and wave activity Test and improve erosion models used for management Test and improve erosion models used for management decisions decisions

28. SOUTHERN CALIFORNIA BEACH PROCESSES STUDY Selected Region Dana Point Dana Point to to Point La Jolla Point La Jolla Length 55 miles Length 55 miles Why this region? Man-made Harbors Lagoons Cliffs

29. Expanded airborne coastline surveys FY2002 Nourishment site study FY2001-2002 Southern California Beach Processes Study (2002-2006) (2002-2006) Local wave buoys to estimate near-beach wave conditions San Diego Oceanside San Clemente

30. Southern California Beach Processes Study Seasonal (four per year) Laser “LIDAR” Surveys: Precise surveys of cliffs and beach above the water line

31. LEUCADIA, CA – FEB 2002

33. DANA POINT HARBOR LIDAR IMAGE – Sep 2002

34. END USERS – SAND/EROSION LOCAL GOVERNMENTS COASTAL ENGINEERS Torrey Pines State Beach, 11/23/02

35. Conversion of measurements to produce useful products. http://cdip.ucsd.edu

36. WEB ACCESS STATS 80,000 VISITORS/DAY 159 WEB SITES LINK DIRECTLY TO CDIP

37. http://cdip.ucsd.edu