2. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. C HAPTER 8 STOCKS AND SAUCES

3. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS AND S AUCES French word for stock is fond, meaning “foundation” or “base.” –This “foundation” indicates the importance of stocks. –The ability to prepare good stocks is the most basic of all culinary skills.

4. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Stock: A clear, thin unthickened liquid flavored by soluble substances extracted from: –Meat, poultry, or fish –Meat, poultry, or fish bones –Vegetables –Seasonings

5. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS The objective in preparing stocks is to: –Select the proper ingredients. –Extract the flavors we want. –Combine the correct ingredients with the correct procedure. I NGREDIENTS

6. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Bones are the major ingredient of stocks (except water, of course). Most of the flavor and body of stocks are derived from the bones. Vegetable stocks draw their flavor entirely from vegetables. INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

7. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Bones The kinds of bones used determine the kind of stock: Chicken stock: made from chicken bones. White stock: made from beef or veal bones. Fish stock: made from fish bones and trimmings left over after filleting. INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

8. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Bones (cont’d) Connective tissues (called collagen) break down and form gelatin. This gives body to a stock. A well-made stock thickens or even solidifies when chilled. Cartilage is the best source of gelatin in bones. Younger animals have more cartilage than mature animals Bones with lots of cartilage, used in stock-making: –Knuckle bones –Neck bones –Shank bones INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

9. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Meat Rarely used in stock-making because of its cost. Chicken hearts and gizzards are often used in chicken stock. Broth is a flavorable liquid produced as a result of simmering meat or poultry. INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

10. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Mirepoix Mirepoix : A combination of onions, carrots, and celery: –White mirepoix: parsnips are sometimes substituted for carrots. –Used when it is necessary to keep the stock as colorless as possible. –Usually for white beef or veal stock and fish stock. –Celery root may be substituted for celery. INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

11. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Acid Products Acids help dissolve connective tissues. Tomato products contribute flavor and some acid to brown stocks. –Too much tomato can make the stock cloudy. Wine is occasionally used, especially for fish stocks. Its flavor contribution is probably more important than its acidity. INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

12. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Seasonings and Spices Salt is usually not added as stocks are reduced, concentrated, and combined with other ingredients. Herbs and spices are usually tied in a cheesecloth bag called a sachet d’épices (French for “spice bag”). The sachet is tied by a string to the handle of the stockpot so it can be removed easily at any time. INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

13. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Seasonings and Spices (cont’d) Bouquet garni : an assortment of fresh herbs and other aromatic ingredients tied in a bundle with string. –Contains pieces of leek and celery, thyme sprigs, bay leaf, and parsley stems. INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

14. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Seasonings and Spices (cont’d) –The following seasonings, in varying quantities, are commonly used for stocks: Thyme Parsley stems Bay leaves Cloves, whole Peppercorns Garlic (optional) INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

15. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Seasonings and Spices (cont’d) –Onions for Flavoring Oignon piqué : A whole, peeled onion onto which a bay leaf is attached by a whole clove. Oignon brûlé : French for “burnt onion.” At times, it is added to brown stock to give color as well as flavor. INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

16. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Ingredient Proportions –Cooks use ratios to help them remember the basic proportions, as follows: Bones: 80 percent Mirepoix: 10 percent Water: 100 percent INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

17. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Ingredients for Vegetable Stocks The basic ingredients for vegetable stocks are: –Vegetables –Herbs and spices –Water –Wine (sometimes) INGREDIENTS (CONT’D)

18. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Blanching Bones The purpose of blanching bones is to rid them of the impurities that cause cloudiness. The bones of young animals, especially veal and chicken, are highest in impurities that cloud and discolor stocks. P ROCEDURES

19. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. P ROCEDURE PREPARING WHITE STOCK Step 1 Place the bones in a stockpot and cover with cold water. Step 2 Skim the scum from the surface regularly.

20. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. P ROCEDURE PREPARING WHITE STOCK (CONT’D) Step 3 Add white mirepoix to the pot. Step 4 Add a sachet d’épices. Tie the sachet to the pot handle so it may be retrieved easily.

21. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. P ROCEDURE PREPARING BROWN STOCK Step 1 Roast the bones in a moderately hot oven until well browned. Step 2 Place the bones in a stockpot and add the appropriate amount of water.

22. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. P ROCEDURE PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D) Step 3 Brown the mirepoix. Add the browned mirepoix to the stockpot. Step 4 Deglaze the roasting pan with water. Add the liquid to the stockpot.

23. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. P ROCEDURE PREPARING BROWN STOCK (CONT’D) Step 5 Simmer slowly for 8 hours. Step 6 Strain the stock through a china cap lined with cheesecloth.

24. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. P ROCEDURE PREPARING FISH STOCK Step 1 Sweat the mirepoix and fish bones in butter. Step 2 Add the white wine and bring to a simmer.

25. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. P ROCEDURE PREPARING FISH STOCK (CON’T) Step 3 Skim as necessary to remove scum. Step 4 Strain through a china cap lined with cheesecloth

26. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Remouillage and Other Stock-Related Procedures Remouillage : A stock made from bones that were already used once to make stock. –The literal meaning of the French term is “rewetting.” Dashi: Basic Japanese stock. –Quickly and easily made from only three ingredients: Water Shaved, dried bonito, called katsuobushi Dried seaweed or kelp, called kombu PROCEDURES (CONT’D)

27. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Reduction: Stocks that are concentrated by boiling or simmering them to evaporate part of the water. Glaze or glace: A stock reduced until it coats the back of a spoon. –Meat glaze, or glace de viande –Chicken glaze, or glace de volaille –Fish glaze, or glace de poisson REDUCTIONS AND GLAZES

28. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS Judging Quality –Bases vary greatly in quality. The best ones are composed mainly of meat extracts. –Many bases are made primarily from salt. –Read the list of ingredients. Using Bases –Using bases requires taste and judgment. Always taste and evaluate as you cook. –There is no substitute for a well-made stock. CONVENIENCE BASES

29. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S AUCES Sauce: A flavorful liquid, usually thickened, used to season, flavor, and enhance other foods. A sauce adds the following qualities to foods: –Moistness –Flavor –Richness –Appearance (color and shine) –Interest and appetite appeal U NDERSTANDING S AUCES

30. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S AUCES The Structure of Sauces The major sauces are made of three kinds of ingredients: –A liquid, the body of the sauce –A thickening agent –Additional seasoning and flavoring ingredients UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)

31. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S AUCES The Structure of Sauces (cont’d) Liquid –Leading sauces or mother sauces White stock (chicken, veal, or fish): for velouté sauces Brown stock: for brown sauce or espagnole Milk: for béchamel Tomato plus stock: for tomato sauce Clarified butter: for hollandaise UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)

32. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS AND S AUCES Thickeners –Roux : A cooked mixture of equal parts by weight of fat and flour. –Beurre manié : A mixture of equal parts soft, raw butter and flour worked together to form a smooth paste. –Liaison : A mixture of egg yolks and cream, used to enrich and lightly thicken a sauce or other liquid. RouxLiaison UNDERSTANDING SAUCES (CONT’D)

33. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S TOCKS AND S AUCES Reduction concentrates flavor, adjusts textures, and adds new flavors. Straining removes lumps. Deglazing is swirling liquid in pan to dissolve cooked particles. Heavy cream used to give flavor and richness to sauce. Monter au beurre is to “finish with butter.” –Add a few pieces of softened butter to the hot sauce. –Swirl them in until melted. –The sauce should then be served immediately. FINISHING TECHNIQUES

34. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S AUCES Leading Sauces Liquid + Thickening agent = Leading sauce Leading sauce + Additional flavorings = Small sauce Standards of quality for sauces: –Consistency and body –Flavor –Appearance S AUCE F AMILIES

35. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S AUCES Béchamel: –Small sauces: Cream Sauce Mornay Sauce Cheddar Cheese Sauce Mustard Sauce Soubise Sauce Nantua Sauce PRODUCTION

36. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S AUCES Velouté: –Suprême sauce –Allemande sauce –White Wine sauce –Small Sauces: Poulette, Aurora, Hungarian, Curry, Mushroom, Albufera/Ivory, Bercy, Herb, Normandy, Anchovy, Shrimp, Venetian, Horseradish PRODUCTION (CONT’D)

37. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. S AUCES Espagnole or Brown Sauce Hearty, flavorful sauce Fond lié or jus lié Demi-glace Small Sauces: PRODUCTION (CONT’D) Bordelaise Marchand de Vin Robert Charcutière Chasseur Diable (Deviled) Madeira Périgueux Poîvrade Port Wine Italian Sauce Mushroom Bercy Piquant Lyonnaise Bigarade

38. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES Tomato Sauce –Small Sauces: Portugaise (Portuguese) Spanish Creole Butter Sauces Melted butter Clarified butter Beurre noisette Beurre noir Meunière butter Compound butter Beurre blanc PRODUCTION (CONT’D)

39. Copyright © 2014 John Wiley and Sons, Inc. All rights reserved. SAUCES Hollandaise and Béarnaise Hollandaise Sauce Béarnaise Sauce Small Sauces: –Maltaise –Mousseline –Foyot –Choron PRODUCTION (CONT’D)