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GERMANY & AUSTRIA SOYOUWANTTOBEASOMM.COM. GERMANY- WHAT’S THE BFD? Rich History Grown at the most northerly limits for vitis vinifera Some of the most.

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Presentation on theme: "GERMANY & AUSTRIA SOYOUWANTTOBEASOMM.COM. GERMANY- WHAT’S THE BFD? Rich History Grown at the most northerly limits for vitis vinifera Some of the most."— Presentation transcript:

1 GERMANY & AUSTRIA SOYOUWANTTOBEASOMM.COM

2 GERMANY- WHAT’S THE BFD? Rich History Grown at the most northerly limits for vitis vinifera Some of the most unforgiving vineyard sites in the world World-Class Riesling and a host of other cool grapes Late Harvest Gold

3 HISTORY Vitis Vinifera arrived in Germany with the Romans 4 th Century- First vineyards planted on Mosel 8 th Century- Charlemagne introduced vines cultivation east of the Rhine River 1136- Cistercians of Burgundy founded Kloster Eberbach monastery in Rheingau. From 5 th -15 th century the Church was instrumental in developing vineyards- Wine was used as currency! Late 18 th Century- Napoleon established his Civil Code after defeating Germany and claiming land for France Led to fractured ownership as in Burgundy 1971- German Wine Law condenses 30,000 vineyard sites into 2,600 in bureaucratic fashion. Created QbA level which allowed chaptalization and flooded the export market with cheap, crappy wine.

4 LIEBFRAUMILCH Cheap, non-descript wine from grapes sourced from anywhere in the Nahe, Rheinhessen, Rheingau, or Pfalz Cannot carry a varietal on the label but usually Muller- Thurgau The face of German wine to the outside world in the 1980s 60% of German wine exports was Liebraumilch

5 GERMAN QUALITY LEVELS PDO Wines- 95% of all wines produced TBA Pradikatswein Eiswein Pradikatswein Beerenauslese Pradikatswein Auslese Pradikatswein Spatlese Pradikatswein Kabinett Pradikatswein Qualitatswein “Erstes Gewachs”- Riesling or Pinot Noir from classified sites in the Rheingau. Approved in 1999. Qualitatswein Landwein- PGI Wines From one of 26 regions (landweingebiete) Deutscher Wein- Wine without Geographical Designation from Germany

6 OESCHLE (UHK-SLUH) Must weight prior to fermentation Has nothing to do with actual sweetness but rather potential alcohol. All wines can be fermented sweet or dry. Similar to Brix (USA), Baume (France), and KMV (Austria) Germany system of measuring quality is based on this measurement. Global warming has essentially created a successful vintage every year since 1988. In the 1900’s Germany would see about 3 vintages a decade that would fully ripen. Chaptalization became very important

7 PRADIKATSWEIN Formally Qualitaswein mit Pradikatswein (QmP) Kabinett- min 70-85 degrees Oeschle- Cabinet/“Table wines” Spatlese- min 80-95 degrees Oeschle- Late harvest Auslese- min 88-105 degrees Oeschle- Selected harvest Beerenauslese- min 110-128 degrees Oeschle- Selected berry harvest Eiswein- min 110-128 degrees Oeschle- Ice wine Trockenbeernauslese- min 150-154 degrees Oeschle- Dried selected berry harvest Minimum must weight expressed at a range because different regions have different stipulations NO CHAPTALIZATION ALLOWED AT THIS LEVEL

8 QUALITATSWEIN Formally called Qualitätswein bestimmter Anbaugebiete (QbA) Chaptalization allowed at this level. Must be grown from one of the 13 Anbaugebiete No mention of pradikat level Must state anbaugebiet on the label Liebfraumilch is considered Qualitatswein “Maiden’s Milk” a non-varietally labeled

9 EXTREME VITICULTURE Very cold, continental climate with no large body of water to moderate temperature Best sites are grown near rivers Slate soils are heat-retentive Steepest slopes in the world Large diurnal swings (hot during day-cold during night) Planted on south-facing slopes to maximize sunlight Skilled workers use systems of repelling to hand-harvest

10 GRAPES- DESCENDING ORDER OF ACREAGE Riesling- Most noble, high-acid white Muller-Thurgau- white crossing of Riesling Spatburgunder- Pinot Noir synonym. Most planted red. Dornfelder- Red crossed in 1955. Silvaner- White important to Franken but produced mostly in the Rhienhessen Grauburgunder- Pinot Gris/Pinot Grigio Weissburgunder-Pinot Blanc/Pinot Bianco Portugieser- Red grape Kerner- White grape Trollinger- Red grape

11 GEOGRAPHIC BREAKDOWN Anbaugebiete- Large region of which there are 13 Mosel, Rheingau, Rheinhessen, etc. Bereiche- Slightly smaller region. Some anbaugebiete have many while some have only one. Obermosel, Saar, Ruwertal, etc. Grosslagen- A collection of vineyards Bastube, Michelsberg, etc. Einzellagen- Single vineyard (theoretically) The German Wine Law of 1971 condensed most all of them together.

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13 ANBAUGEBIETE Mosel- Cool and high-acid, low-alcohol Rieslings. Pure, brilliant, and water-white. Blue devonian slate slopes. Rheingau- Oldest region. Fuller Rieslings. Essentially one long southeast-facing slope. 80% planted to Riesling. Rheinhessen- Most acreage than any other region. Famous for the Roter Hang and its red clay vineyards. Message in a Bottle association a group of over two dozen young producers committed to raising quality of the region Ahr- Northern region. Mostly planted to Spatburgunder. Pfalz- Almost a continuation of France’s Alsace region. Generally most full-bodied Rieslings Wide range of soil types. Best sites grown further north on east-facing slopes of Haardt Hills (Vosges Mnts. In France)

14 ANBAUGEBIETE CONT Nahe- Best sites along the Nahe River, a tributary of the Rhine. Generally sweet, middle-of-the-road Riesling Donnhoff sweet wines from his monopole vineyard Oberhauser Brucke are prized Franken- Centered along the Main River. Silvaner thrives here. Produces mostly all dry wines. Bocksbeutel is the traditional squat, flask-shaped bottle Mittelrhein- Narrow anbaugebiet similar to the Mosel. Most all of their wine is trocken or halbtrocken. Hessische-Bergstrasse-Only region without a VDP Grosse Lage site.

15 ANBAUGEBIETE CONT Baden- Large region along the French border. Mostly red. Wurttemberg-Contains most of Germany’s Schwarzriesling and Lemberger (Blaufrankisch). Sachsen (Saxony)- Very small eastern region located on the Elbe River. Goldriesling, an aromatic cross is grown here Saale-Unstrut- Northernmost wine region in Germany. Muller- Thurgau and Weissburgunder. Named after the two rivers that run through it.

16 In the Mosel anbaugebiete there are 6 Beriche. This map shows 3 of them including the famous Beriche Bernkastel, where the most important Einzellagen (vineyards) are located in the Mosel. Please note the village of Urzig. MOSEL

17 READING GERMAN WINE LABELS Adding “er” to the village name makes it possessive. This is saying that the vineyard of Wurzgarten is in the Village of Urzig. Weingut Karl Erbes is the producer Mosel-Saar-Ruwer is the anbaugebiet. It is known as the Mosel since 2007 Riesling is the varietal and Auslese is the Pradikatlevel Gutsabfulling is the equivalent of “estate bottled” The AP Number is listed indicating the wine has passed a tasting panel and is of Pradikatswein quality.

18 VDP Verband Deutscher Pradikatsweinguter is an association of around 200 German producers committed to top quality More restrictive classification of vineyards than the German government. 2002 VDP Accord vs. 1971 German Wine Law Prior to 2012 Erste Lage (“first site”) wines represented top tier of VDP quality pyramid denoted by a “1” symbol From 2012 Erste Lage is known as “Grosse Lage” and would mirror the Grand Cru system in Burgundy.

19 VDP CLASSIFICATION 2012-PRESENT 1.Grosse Lage: “Grand Cru” Wines (max. 50 hl/ha) Can be labled “GG” for Grosses Gewachs if troken (less than 9 g/l) or by Pradikat level if sweet 2.Erste Lage: "Premier Cru" Wines (max. 60 hl/ha) Formally the top of the pyramid (pre-2012). This classification is optional for producers and voted on by anbaugebiet. Ex: Some Grosse Lage in Pfalz will be recast as Erste Lage but Rheinhessen will not adopt the Erste Lage tier. 3.Ortswein: Village Wines (max. 75 hl/ha) Typical grape varieties sourced from multiple vineyard sites in a single village. 4.Gutswein: Regional Wines (max. 75 hl/h) Can be sourced from an estate’s holdings anywhere within a single anbaugebiet

20 GERMAN TERMS Alleinbesitz- Monopole Amtliche Prufungsnummer (AP Number)- a series of five sets of numbers indicating testing and approval Grosses Gewachs (GG)- VDP term that indicates a vineyards best bottle. Indicates a dry wine from premier site. Ortsteil- Walled Vineyard (Clos) Sekt- Sparkling wine mostly made at Deutscher Wein level in the Charmat method. Can be QbA if from one of the 13 Anbaugebiete. Weissherbst- Rose from a single variety red of QbA quality

21 GERMAN PRODUCERS OF NOTE Dr. Loosen (Mosel) Reichsgraff von Kesselstatt (Mosel) Reinhold Haart (Mosel) Muller-Catoir (Pfalz) Burklin-Wolf (Pflaz) Gunderloch (Rheinhessen) Donnhoff (Nahe) Meyer-Nakel (Ahr) Hans Wirsching (Franken)

22 AUSTRIA- BFD Committed to quality as evidenced by some of the most regulated wines in the world. Known for Gruner Veltliner but also has amazing Riesling and a host of confusing (but quality) reds Cool climate, mineral-tinged, crisp wines thrive here providing a wide range of opportunity at the table.

23 ANTIFREEZE SCANDAL In 1985 the “antifreeze” scandal surfaced when a winery tried to claim diethylene glycol on a tax return The chemical was used to boost texture in the wine. Ethylene Glycol, as opposed to diethylene, is actually the chemical found in anti-freeze but it still set the industry back immensely As a result Austria raised it’s standards and now has some of the strictest wine laws in the world

24 WHITE GRAPES OF AUSTRIA Gruner Veltliner- Covers 30% of acreage. Pride of Austria. Welchriesling- an unrelated grape to Riesling. Muller-Thurgau- Of German fame Weissburgunder- Pinot Blanc Riesling- Thrives in Wachau Chardonnay (Morillon/Feinburgunder) Whites cover 65% of acreage

25 RED GRAPES OF AUSTRIA Zweigelt (Blaufrankisch X St. Laurent crossing)- Most widely grown red. Thrives in Neusiedlersee DAC Blaufrankisch- Known as Lemberger in Germany and Kekfrankos in Hungry. Deeply hued red showing spicy red and black fruit and supple texture. Blauer Portugieser Blauburger (Blaufrankish X Blauer Portugieser)

26 4 MAJOR WINE REGIONS Called Weinbaugebiete. Listed from North to South: Niederosterrich (Lower Austria) Contain most of the vineyards. Alipine terrain. The Danube River cuts through the region. Mostly whites. Contains 8 other regions: Carnuntum, Kamptal DAC, Kremstal DAC, Thermenregion, Traisental DAC, Wagram, Weinviertel DAC, and perhaps the most famous: Wachau. Wien (Vienna) One of the only major wine regions near a major city. Wiener Gemischter Satz DAC is only sub region. Burgenland Second largest region. Where to find quality reds and sweet wines. Cooling influence of Lake Neusidlersee helps calm the hot Pannonian climate. 4 DACs located here. Rust, is located in Neusiedlersee- Hugellan (Leithaberg DAC) and is famous for its Ausbrush Styria (Stieremark) Three subregions: Sudsteiermark, Weststeiermark, and Sudoststeiermark. Only region without a DAC zone.

27 QUALITY LEVELS Wein Generic category. Replaced “Tafelwein” in 2009 and may carry a vintage and varietal Landwein Restricted to 35 varietals Labeled with one of three Weinbauregionen Weinland (Niederosterreich, Wein, and Burgenland) Steierland (Steiermark) Bergland- 500 ha of land scattered throughout mountains Qualitatswein- Divided into Pradikat and DAC Kabinett is in the Qualitaswein category, not the Pradikatswein category as in Germany. Still, chaptalization is disallowed. Ausbruch, a sweet wine from Rust and Strohwein in which grapes are dried out and concentrated on straw mats, are two Pradikatswein levels which aren’t recognized in Germany. Measured by Klosterneuburger Mostwaage (KMW) similar to Oeschle

28 QUALITATSWEIN

29 DISTRICTUS AUSTRIAE CONTROLLATUS (DAC) Focus on dry wines Must adhere to geographic limits, specific grapes, min alcohol, and stylistic choices (oak and botrytis) for the DAC status Weinviertel (2002)- Gruner Veltliner. Can be made into Classic (no oak or Botrytis, min 12% alcohol with notes of fruit, spice, and pepper) or Reserve (min 13% alcohol, subtle botrytis and wood) Mittelburgenland (2005)- Blaufrankisch Traisental (2006)- Riesling and Gruner similar to Weinviertel Kremstal (2007)- Riesling and Gruner similar to Weinviertel Kampatl (2008) - Riesling and Gruner similar to Weinviertel Leithaberg (2009)- Only DAC to allow white and red Eisenberg (2010)- Blaufrankisch. Classic and Reserve (needs oak) Neusiedlersee (2012)- Based on Zwiegelt. Classic and Reserve Wiener Gemischter Satz (2013) – Only DAC of Wein region. Blend of at least 3 white varietals.

30 WACHAU Niederosterreich’s westernmost subregion. Soil structure is a mix of loess, gfohler (gneiss, and alluvial sand in the lower vineyard sites near Danube. Gruner and Riesling excel here because of the influence of the Danube, cool northern winds, and terraced slopes on North bank. Home to the Vinea Wachau, an organization estates for natural winemaking who membership represents 85% of acreage Has its own classification instead of adhering to DAC or Pradikat Steinfeder (grass)- max alcohol 11.5%, min 15 KMW Federspiel (falconer’s tool) - alcohol 11.5-12.5%, min 17 KMW Smaragd (green lizard)– min alcohol 12.5%, in 19 KMW All of these wines must be dry and therefore are prone to showing high alcohol and tones of botrytis.

31 AUSTRIA PRODUCERS OF NOTE Knoll (Wachau) FX Pichler (Wachau) Prager (Wachau) Brundlmayer (Kamptal) Hirsch (Kamptal) Nigl (Kremstal)


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