1. WORKING TOGETHER FOR BETTER RESULTS April 9, 2014

2. Plants 1.What do you do if the plant list doesn’t match the drawings? 2.Who does your pruning, do you use an arborist? 3.Are “bald and burlapped” containers still relevant? 4.Are watering saucers (earth mounds) necessary? 5.Why are plants often planted by the least experienced workers? 6.When do you take stakes away from the job site? 7.When should an arborist be called in? 8.What attention should be given to planting during the season, and why? 9.Are some plants better planted in the fall, summer, spring, winter?

3. Topsoil 1.Is compost readily available, what quality? Where from? 2.How quickly can you get topsoil tested for PH, composition, organic content, trace elements? Where? 3.What processing needs to be specified to reduce contaminants in topsoil like weeds? 4.What is the cost to screen topsoil or rocks and debris to 20- 10 mm? 5.What is the cost for mycorrhiza applications and is it worthwhile?

4. Mulch 1.When would you recommend weed mat? And when not? 2.What would you recommend as a fire retardant on mulch? 3.What is the cost differential between stone and bark mulch? 4.What does it cost to apply 75 mm of bark mulch/m 2 ? 5.Do you use one colour over another? Why?

5. Seeding 1.When is it less expensive to hydroseed? 2.When should the ratio of seed/area be increased? 3.What is the extra cost/m 2 for coated seed? 4.What is the latest date seeding should be attempted? 5.Does dormant seeding really work? 6.What are some examples of areas that are not generally suitable for seeding? 7.What times are required for establishment before seeded areas can be generally used?

6. Sod 1.What grass mixes are readily available in sod? 2.Is there a standard topsoil composition for sod from Atlantic Canada? 3.Is sod quality comparable between producers (growers)? 4.What formats does sod come in and the advantages of each? 5.What special measures need to be taken for various sod applications (slopes, swales, etc.)?

7. Fertilizer 1.The best ratio for seed establishment is? 2.Is it the same ratio for sod? 3.What applications are best for first year maintenance & when? 4.When, if ever, should these ratios be changed, without knowing PH of topsoil? 5.What “green” or “environmental” approach to fertilizer works best? 6.How much more does a “green” approach cost? 7.How much does it cost per square metre for a fertilizer application? What are the cost factors? 8.Why don’t contractors notify LA’s when applications are done as specified? 9.When is slow release fertilizer used? 10.What is the function of each of the three main components in terms of plant nutrition?

8. Pavers 1.How does cutting pavers impact the cost for installation? 2.Which patterns are most expensive? Why? 3.What advantages does crusherdust have over sand for a leveling course, if any? 4.Are thicker pavers (ie 90 mm) more expensive to lay? What issues are related to using different thickness pavers on the same job? 5.What is the most readily available granular base material for permeable pavers? 6.Should polymeric sand be used in all applications? 7.What has been your experience with “the wet look” sprays on pavers? 8.What can be done to mitigate settlement of pavers back of the curb? 9.What can be done to mitigate weed/grass invasion of pavers especially without the use of herbicides?

9. Retaining Walls 1.Which size and style of wall is the least expensive to install? 2.What products work best for bonding caps? 3.What drawing information is required to more accurately price walls? 4.What role does the back of wall drainage layer and drainage piping play? 5.The role of adequate foundation layers (granular, concrete, etc.)

10. Irrigation 1.Is irrigation really needed in our region? 2.The role of topsoil depth and moisture retention capacity in determining irrigation requirements.