Presentation on theme: "Making a Book from Scratch: A Quarter Binding with Corner Pieces Rebecca Mieure Emporia State University July 2012."— Presentation transcript:
Making a Book from Scratch: A Quarter Binding with Corner Pieces Rebecca Mieure Emporia State University July 2012
Getting Started As you can see, I have most of my materials and I’m ready to start my project. At this point I really didn’t have a clue as to what I was doing!
Creating Signatures Check the grain of the paper when creating signatures. The grain should run vertically from the head (top) to tail (bottom). I folded 3 A4 (8.5”x11”) papers in half vertically, set it on the edge of the desk, then cut it along the fold with a very smooth sharp knife. Then I folded the cut papers in half horizontally to make a signature. Signatures typically contain 3 to 4 folios (or folded paper)
Practice Signatures I used my kids’ drawing paper to practice cutting, pricking, and sewing. I made the pricking card from a greeting card which is seen on the right. I used acid-free, 24lb paper for the book. I could have used a thicker paper but had difficulties finding paper that wasn’t too thick or too thin. I used a light weight awl to make the holes.
Pricking Template A pricking cradle or saw can be used to make the holes for sewing. It’s pretty handy if you’re an amateur like me. I discovered the template moves if you are holding it incorrectly and the holes will be a little off. It certainly beats trying to measure the holes for each signature though.
Cradle vs. Saw The saw is the way to go if you have a book press and plan on making a lot of books. The book press keeps the papers in place while you saw the holes A pricking cradle is great if you plan on making a small book If you only use the pricking template w/o the cradle-you are more likely to poke your fingers with the awl.
Setting up the Tapes After the signatures have been pricked you are ready to start sewing with your waxed thread. I adhered the linen tapes to my desk accordingly with the measurements of the holes in the signatures.
More Tape… I laid up my signatures next to the tapes to make sure the tapes were long enough. I only had ten signatures as you can see.
I used a very simple technique to bind my book. There are a variety of ways to sew the tapes on and some are very intricate and beautiful This first signature has weights holding it down. Taping the thread to the work station prevents it from being pulled out. Starting with the 3 rd signature, you have to begin making knots to connect the prior signatures.
All Sewn Together I ran out of thread and had to make a weaver’s knot to finish sewing the tapes on. The book I referred to had excellent instructions on how to make a good knot.
Thread and Tape Thread – I used Lineco Binder’s thread. It is an Acid- free, unbleached linen used for bookbinding & repair. To keep it from fraying I used Beeswax. I put the thread between my thumb and wax and pulled it through until it felt sufficiently waxed. Tape – I used Binder’s tape. It’s an Acid-free sturdy web linen used for bookbinding and sewing signatures.
Cutting the covers I used acid-free millboard, which was difficult to cut through. A good cutting tool makes a big difference. The edges were frayed and ugly at first using my exact-o knife. I literally spent hours cutting it so it looked decent. My measurements for the spine were way too big. I ended up cutting it in half. Knowing your way around a ruler also helps.
Getting ready for the partial cloth cover At this phase of the project, I mistakenly cut out the cloth for a full cover but I had planned on doing a partial cloth/decorative paper cover. I had to cut it down significantly.
First Section of Half-Binding I managed to glue the cloth to the spine properly. I used Lineco’s neutral pH Adhesive. It dries clear and fast and works great. Wal- Mart and fabric stores do not carry book cloth or book glue. I got my materials at Reuel’s, an art store.
Decorative Paper Applied I used a less expensive decorative paper. I liked the color but it got dirty very easily. I was extremely careful trying not to get the glue on the outside of the paper yet I still got a few smudges on it.
Corner Pieces Glued On After gluing on the corner pieces, I realized I only glued the bottom left corner on evenly. This book-binding stuff is tricky.
Book Cover Complete The cover is complete with corner pieces. The next step is to combine it with the book block.
Inserting the Book Block A piece of waste paper is used when gluing the endpapers to the covers to prevent any excess glue from sticking to the other sheets. I tried to create more durable flyleaves that didn’t need gluing, but found the instructions and pictures difficult to follow.
The End Product I used acid-free scrapbooking paper for the endpapers. It’s good to use paper with a similar thickness to the paper in the bulk of the book. I glued the book higher than I should have, which left more of the decorative paper at the tail of the book than at the head.
References Abbott, K. (2011). Bookbinding: A step by step guide. Ramsbury, Wiltshire: The Crowood Press Ltd. Rosati, P. (2001). Bookbinding Basics. New York, NY: Sterling Publishing Co., Inc.