1. 1.4 1.4 7.1 1.4 1.4 1.4 COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program
COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
1.4
COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
COMMUNICATING FOR SUCCESS
PROPERTIES OF THE HAIR AND SCALP
1.4
7.1
1.4
1.4
1.4
Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program
Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program
Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program
Copyright 2013 © WSCAP Washington State Apprentice Program

2. TRICHOLOGY The scientific study of hair, its diseases, and care
Hair is part of integument.
Healthy hair requires a healthy diet.
Proper nutrients are required for healthy hair.
Body can synthesize 11 of the 20 amino acids that make up hair.
Sources of amino acids include
a. proteins.
b. peanut butter.
c. rice.
d. beans.
e. corn.

3. HAIR Structure of Hair Root Follicle Hair bulb Dermal papilla
Arrector pili
Sebaceous glands

4. HAIR
Structure of Hair Shaft
Cuticle
Cortex
Medulla

5. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
Keratinization
91% Protein
Long chains of amino acids
COHNS Elements
Carbon—51%
Oxygen—21%
Hydrogen—6%
Nitrogen—17%
Sulfur—5%

6. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
Amino Acids
Linked like pop beads
Peptide (or end) bonds
Polypeptide chain

7. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
Side Bonds of Cortex
Hydrogen bonds
Salt bonds
Disulfide bonds

8. CHEMICAL COMPOSITION OF HAIR
Hair Pigment
Melanin
Natural hair color
Haircolor versus Hair Color
Wave Pattern and Tendencies
Straight hair
Wavy hair
Extremely curly hair
Asian
Caucasian
African American

9. HAIR ANALYSIS Hair Texture Hair Density Coarse Medium Fine Low High
Average (2,200 hairs per in.2)
Blonde (140,000)
Brown (110,000)
Black (108,000)
Red (80,000)

10. HAIR ANALYSIS
Porosity
Low
Average
High
Elasticity
Normal

11. HAIR ANALYSIS Growth Patterns Dry Hair and Scalp Oily Hair and Scalp
Hair stream
Whorl
Cowlick
Dry Hair and Scalp
Appears dull, dry, and lifeless
No frequent shampooing
Oily Hair and Scalp
Clarifying shampoos
Well-balanced diet
Exercise
Regular, frequent shampooing

12. HAIR GROWTH Types of Hair Vellus or lanugo Terminal hair
Growth Cycles of Hair
Anagen
Catagen
Telogen

13. ANAGEN GROWING PHASE—Average growth about 1/2” per month
90% of scalp hair grow at the same time
Growth period of three to five years; as long as ten years in some cases
Duration of hair life affected by gender, age, type of hair, heredity, nutrition, and health

14. CATAGEN Transitional phase.
Follicle canal shrinks, detaches from the papilla.
The lower part of follicle is destroyed.
End of the growth phase; lasts only one to two weeks.
Less than 1% of scalp hair is in this phase at any one time.

15. TELOGEN
Resting stage.
After catagen, follicle begins a 3- to 6-month phase of resting.
Follicle is shorter, about 1/2 to 1/3 the length of active follicles.
Only 10% of hair is in telogen phase at one time.
After telogen, the cycle begins again.

17. HAIR GROWTH Hair Growth Myths
Clipping, shaving, trimming, and cutting makes hair grow faster.
Scalp massage increases hair growth.
Gray hair is coarser and more resistant than pigmented hair.
Amount of natural curl is determined by racial background.
Hair with round cross-section is straight, hair with oval cross-section is wavy, hair with flat cross-section is curly.

18. HAIR GROWTH Hair Growth Facts
Shaving or cutting the hair has no effect on hair growth.
Stimulation or scalp massage does not increase hair growth.
Other than the lack of pigment, gray hair is exactly the same as pigmented hair.
Anyone of any race can have hair from straight to extremely curly.
Cross-sections of hair can be almost any shape, and the shape of the cross-section does not always relate to the amount of curl of the hair.

19. HAIR LOSS Men with severe hair loss Women with hair loss
experience negative social and emotional effects.
are more preoccupied with their baldness.
make efforts to conceal or compensate for hair loss.
Women with hair loss
usually devastated.
feel anxious, helpless, less attractive.

20. HAIR LOSS Androgenetic alopecia Alopecia areata
affects 40 million U.S. men.
affects 20 million U.S. women.
Alopecia areata
Immune system attacks hair follicles.
It begins with one or two small, bald patches.
It occurs in males and females of all ages.
Scalp shows no sign of inflammation.

21. HAIR LOSS Postpartum alopecia Hair Loss Treatments
Temporary hair loss at conclusion of pregnancy
Hair Loss Treatments
Minoxidil®—topical medication applied to scalp
Finasteride®—oral prescription for men only

22. DISORDERS OF THE HAIR Canities (kah-NISH-ee-eez) Ringed Hair
Congenital canities
Acquired canities
Ringed Hair
Alternate bands of gray and dark hair
Hypertrichosis
Also known as hirsuties, means superfluous hair
Fragilitas Crinium
Brittle hair that causes splitting

23. TRICHOPTILOSIS Split hair ends
Treatment—oil to lubricate and soften ends, or cutting the hair

24. TRICHORRHEXIS NODOSA Knotted hair Dry, brittle
Nodular swellings along hair shaft
Hair easily broken, creating a brush-like spreading of fibers along the hair shaft
Treatment—softening the hair with conditioners

25. MONILETHRIX Beaded hair Hair easily broken between the beads
Treatment—scalp and hair treatments may improve hair condition

26. DISORDERS OF THE SCALP Dandruff Pityriasis capitis simplex
Pityriasis steatoides
Both contagious
Vegetable Parasitic Infections
Tinea
Tinea capitis
Tinea favosa

27. VEGETABLE PARASITIC INFECTIONS
Tinea capitis—ringworm of the scalp
Characterized by red papules or spots at the opening of the hair follicles
Causes the hair to break

28. DISORDERS OF THE SCALP Animal parasitic infections
Scabies; caused by the itch mite
Pediculosis capitis
Staphylococci infections
Furuncle or boil
Carbuncle

29. ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS
Pediculosis capitis (head lice)
Contagious
Infest the hair and scalp
Itching occurs
Scratching can cause infection
Head lice do not jump or fly but run very quickly

30. ANIMAL PARASITIC INFECTIONS
Nits
Tiny, yellow-white eggs of lice
Become attached to the hair and difficult to remove

31. STAPHYLOCOCCI PARASITIC INFECTIONS
Furuncle—a boil
Infection of a hair follicle
Constant pain; pustule is perforated by a hair
Carbuncle
Inflammation of the subcutaneous tissue
Larger than a furuncle

32. SUMMARY
Trichology is the science that deals with the hair, its diseases, and care.
The more you understand how salon services affect different hair types, the better you will be able to achieve consistent results on your client.
Recognizing scalp and hair disorders will help you direct your client appropriately.