Master Gardener Volunteer Training Program

Master Gardener Volunteer Training Program
Indoor Plants A Unit of the MSU Extension Master Gardener Volunteer Training Program

Selecting Interior Plants
Insect & disease free. Healthy-looking from top to bottom. Match plant to indoor conditions. Live plants can add that perfect decorating touch to any home with little required maintenance. But don’t be discouraged if your previous plants have succumbed to the rigors of living inside. The key is creating the right fit between your plants and the growing conditions in your home. Selecting the right interior plant Always start with pest free plants. Do not bring a plant into your home if it shows signs/symptoms of insects or disease The plant should appear healthy from top to bottom. Don’t purchase a plant based on the foliage appearance alone, don’t forget to look at the root as well. Know you homes environmental conditions (especially where the plant(s) are going to be placed) and find a plant that will best grow under these conditions.

Transporting Hot summer. Cold winter.
Plants that are transported in the hot summer and cold winter months can be damaged by these adverse environmental conditions. During the hot summer, do not stop off at the mall for several hours while your poor defenseless plant bakes in the bright sunlight and searing heat of your car. Treat them as though they were children, cracking a window is not sufficient. The freezing temperatures of winter will make short work of killing a plant let outdoors. But it can also cause damage to leaves, buds, stems and roots while taking the plant from your car to the house (or visa versa). Be sure to the plant has adequate protection to prevent damage by the freezing temperatures.

Acclimatization Moving Plants. Moving plants inside in winter.
Moving plants outside in spring. The process of acclimation reduces the shock a plant suffers when they are moved to area with significantly different environmental conditions. A homeowner should acclimatize pants when placing them outdoor in summer by gradually increasing light intensities and reversing the process when placing bring them back indoors. For newly purchased plants, acclimatize them by initially locating them in a high light area of you home and gradually moving them to their permanent darker location over a period of 4 to 8 weeks.

Plants as Air Cleaners Absorb air pollutants.
Both the plant and the potting medium absorb the pollutants. Research has shown that plants, beside their visual pleasure, also serve another purpose. Plants absorb air pollutants. In an average home, if a homeowners includes 15 plants, they can significantly improve the air quality. Both plant and potting medium are responsible for absorbing in home pollutants.

Here you see a chart of common indoor pollutants, their source and the plants that are known to remove them from the air inside your home. New homes are being built tighter and tighter, more fumes and building materials and furnishings are being trapped inside. It is often difficult to pinpoint the problem with so many materials-including carpeting, paints and plastic-exuding fumes.

Environmental Factors
Light. Temperature. Flowering. Humidity. Ventilation. Light, water, temperature, humidity, ventilation, fertilization and soil are the chief factors affecting plant growth, and any one of these in incorrect proportions will prevent proper plant growth indoors. Lets take a closer look at these factors.

Light Most essential factor for indoor plant growth.
Three aspects of light to consider. Intensity. Duration. Quality. Light if arguably the most essential factor for indoor plant growth. The growth of plants and the length of time they remain active depend on the amount of light they receive. Light is needed by a plant for using nutrients and manufacturing food. It has a great influence on chlorophyll production, growth rate, leaf size and flower and seed production. When examining light levels for indoor plants, consider three aspects of light: intensity, duration and quality.

Indoor Light Intensity Varies
Location/Distance from source. Time of day. Latitude. Time of year. Cloud density. Intensity refers to the amount of light present and is affected by many factors including, location within your home, time of day, latitude, time of year, cloud cover and shade cast by objects outdoors. The intensity of light a plant receives indoors depends upon the nearness of the light source to the plants (light intensity decreases rapidly as you move away from the source of light).

Light Conditions A southern exposure typically provides the greatest light intensity, then western, eastern and northern. As winter approaches, light intensity diminish. Symptoms of insufficient light intensity include: week growth, long spindly stems, poor color in older leaves and leaf loss or failure to flower. Leaf of Dracaena (Snake Plant) produced under low light (left) and thick, stronger leaf produced under more light (Right).

Light Requirements for Selected Indoor Plants
PLANT (COMMON NAME) DIRECT SUN BRIGHT LIGHT AVG. LIGHT LOW LIGHT Aluminum Plant X Jade Plant Areca Palm Japanese Aralia Asparagus Sprengeri Kangaroo Ivy Asparagus Meyeri Maidenhair Fern Boston Fern Moses-in-the-Cradle Aloe Vera Norfolk Island Pine Burro's Tail Parlor Palm Chinese Evergreen Peperomia Coleus Piggyback Corn Plant Ponytail Palm Croton Rubber Plant Dumb Cane Schefflera Devil's Ivy Snake Plant Fiddle leaf Fig Spider Plant False Aralia Strawberry Begonia German Ivy (Green) Swedish Ivy German Ivy (Variegated) Tahitian Bridal Veil Gold Dust Dracaena Velvet Plant Grape Ivy Wandering Jews Heartleaf Philodendron Weeping Fig Indoor plants can be classified according to their light needs, such as high, medium, and low light measurements.

Light Quality Quality of light refers to the spectrum of colors available; sunlight contains all colors. Plants utilize all colors in photosynthesis, except green.

Photoperiodic Response (Duration)
Short-day plants. Poinsettia, kalanchoe & Christmas cactus. Long-day plants. Cineraria. Day-neutral plants. African violet. Duration refers to the length of light exposure. A daily exposure to light, preferably 8 to 16 hours, is needed for plant processes. Symptoms of insufficient duration are similar to those of low light intensity; small leaves, spindly stems and older leaf drop.

Supplemental Light Quality of light. Fluorescent vs. Incandescent.
If artificial light is the only source of light for growing plants, the quality of light (wave length) must be considered. For photosynthesis, pants require mostly blue and reds, buts flowering plants need infrared light. Supplemental light for indoor plants is limited to either Fluorescent or incandescent light.

Incandescent vs. Fluorescent
Incandescent lights produce mostly red and some infrared light but are very low in the blue range. Fluorescent light vary according to the phosphorus used by the manufacturer. Cool white and warm-white lights produce mostly blue light and are low in red wavelengths. A cool-white bulb can be combined with a different type of fluorescent bulb that produces more red light. Foliage plants grow well under cool-and-warm white fluorescent lights, which are cool enough to position quite close to plants. Blooming plants require extra infrared light, which can be supplied by incandescent light or special horticultural fluorescent lights. There are a number of bulb-shaped fluorescent bulbs that can be used in a special wall fixtures. These work in home and office interiors more readily than shop fixtures.

Grow Lights Most growing lights are not needed, incandescent and fluorescent lights provide all that is needed. High Intensity Discharge (HID) lights are very expensive and are primarily used in commercial greenhouses. HALIDE VERSUS SODIUM? HID lamps produce 5 to 6 times the light output of incandescent lamps of an equivalent wattage and the bulbs last on average 10,000 to 24,000 hours as compared to 750 hours for a typical incandescent bulb. HID plant grow light systems are built to last, with system life spans exceeding 15 years of daily use. For plant growth, two types of HID lamps are utilized in the industry...Metal Halide (MH) and High-Pressure Sodium (HPS). Metal halide (MH) lamps emit a full-spectrum light that is the most popular light for indoor gardening. Plants grown under MH lamps look natural and develop a plant habit that is most like plants grown outdoors. Lamps used to light baseball and football fields are almost always metal halide, so that color rendering is best for television and photography. High-pressure sodium (HPS) lamps emit a light heavy in the red/orange spectrum and are the preferred supplemental greenhouse lamp. The red/orange spectrum increases fruiting and flowering in plants. Since plants get all the blue spectrum light they need from the sun in a greenhouse, increasing day length with HPS lamps significantly boost productivity . Plants can be grown solely under HPS light, but tend to be a little leggier than those grown under metal halide and don't look very natural because of the relatively garish yellow hue of the light. HPS lamps are widely used as parking lot and highway lighting where color appearance isn't important. Their long life and high output make them ideal for these types of applications.

Temperature Affects productivity and plant growth.
Manipulates flowering and plant height. Foliage Plants. Day: 70 to 80° F. Night: 60 to 68° F. Flowering. Day: 70 to 80° F. Night: 55 to 60° F. Most indoor plants tolerate normal temperature fluctuations. In general, foliage plants grow best between 70 & 80 degrees F during the day and from 60 to 68 degrees F at night. The lower night temperature induces physiological recovery from moisture loss, intensifies flower color and prolongs flower life. Excessively low or high temperatures may cause plant failures, stop growth, or cause spindly growth and foliage damage or drop. A cool temperature at night is actually more desirable for plant growth. A good rule of thumb is keep the night temperature 10 to 15 degrees lower then the day temperature. Watch out for temperature extremes though out your home, areas to watch are windowsills, heating vents/ducts, doors and unheated spaces.

Botanical Name Common Name Light Water Temp H M L D C W Common Indoor Plants Aglaonema (spp.) modestum Chinese evergreen • Araucaria heterophylla Norfolk Island pine Aspidistra elatior Cast-iron plant Chamaedorea elegans Parlor palm Chlorophytum comosum Spider plant Cissus rhombifolia Grape ivy Crassula argentea Jade plant Dieffenbachia spp. Dumb cane Dracaena fragrans 'Massangeana' Corn plant Ficus spp. Fig. rubber plant

Botanical Name Common Name Light Water Tem H M L D C W Common Indoor Plants Plants Hoya carnosa Wax plant • Monstera deliciosa Split-leaf philodendron Nephrolepsis exaltata Boston fern Peperomia spp. Platycerium spp. Staghorn fern Sansevieria trifasciata Snake plant Schefflera arboricola Umbrella tree (schefflera) Spathiphyllum spp. White flag Syngonium spp. Tolmiea menziesii Piggyback plant Tradescantia (incl. Zebrina) Wandering Jew

Flowering Two critical stimuli that induce flowering. Day length.
Temperature. Two critical stimuli that induce plants to flower rather than continue their vegetative growth are temperature and day length. Through extensive research it was found that a great many plants respond, or fail to respond, to variations in day length. Plants fall into on or three categories. Short-day plants. Long-day plants. Day-neutral plants

Day Length Short-day plants. Long-day plants. Day-neutral plants.
Short-day plants initiate flowers only when they day length is less than a species-specific critical number of hours. Long-day plants initiate flowers only when they day length exceeds a species-specific critical number of hours. Day-neutral plants initiate flowers independent of day length. What actually happens is that plants responds to the length of the dark period rather than the light period. For many plants the day length (dark period) must be coupled with certain critical temperatures.

Temperature/Day Length
Cool temperature/short-day. Cool temperature/long-day. Cool temperature/day-neutral. Warm temperature/short-day. Warm temperature/day-neutral. Cool temperature/short-day – Christmas and Easter cacti, gardenia, kalanchoe, cattleya orchid, primrose. Cool temperature/long-day – tuberous begonia, cineraria, heather, streptocarpus. Cool temperature/day-neutral – geranium, cyclamen, tulips, amaryllis, wax begonia, hyacinth, calla lily, dendrobium orchid. Warm temperature/short-day - poinsettia, mum, bougainvillea. Warm temperature/day-neutral – African violet, flowering maple, spathiphyllum, impatiens, espiscia, anthrurium, phalaenopsis.

Humidity Percent of the moisture saturation of air.
Generally, 40% will be sufficient. % typical in Michigan homes in winter. Relative Humidity (RH) Most plants grow best with relative humidity of over 50%. Although many plants will tolerate lower levels, only those native to arid regions will tolerate humidity levels between %. Problems usually appear in winter, when dry home heating robs the air of moisture. Typically during the winter most Michigan homes have a RH of 10 – 15%. This can be poor growing conditions for many indoor plants, especially the Tropical Foliage Plants.

Humidity Increasing humidity: Humidifiers. Humidity trays. Misting.
The atmosphere of a centrally heated room in winter is as dry as desert air. Increase the air humidity by using a humidifier or placing plants in a moist area such as the kitchen or bathroom. You can mist the plants, grow pots in groups to increase the moisture surrounding plants or double pot the plant using an outer waterproof container and fill the space between the pot and the container with moist peat. The best way to raise humidity levels is to use a humidifier. If you do not have a humidifier, you can place a plant's pot in a large saucer filled with gravel and water. Be careful not to let the bottom of the pot sit in the water, or the roots may rot. As the water evaporates, it will fill the surrounding air with moisture. You can also mist the leaves with water.

Humidifier Humidifies are perfect for humidifying entire rooms, especially those with plants.

Humidity Tray Trays filled with gravel filled with water are excellent for increasing the RH for individual plants.

Misting Misting is the most labor intensive humidity raising activity. However, if you only have 1 or 2 plants it might be the best method.

Ventilation Drafts. Forced warm air heat.
Cold drafts - windows & doors. Indoor plants, especially flower varieties are very sensitive to warm and cold drafts. Forced warm air dries the plants rapidly, overtaxes their limited root systems, and may cause damage or death. Cold drafts from doors opening during winter can damage indoor plants. Positions plants to avoid chilling.

Containers Clay & ceramic. Plastic & fiberglass. Others.
A good indoor plant container should be large enough to provide room for soil and roots, have sufficient head room for proper watering, provide bottom drainage and be attractive without competing with the plants it holds. Indoor plant containers can be made from Clay, Ceramic, Plastic, Fiberglass, wood, aluminum, cooper, brass or just about any other material.

Clay & Ceramic Unglazed and glazed porous clay pots with drainage holes are widely used by commercial indoor plant growers and are frequently left with the plant when it is purchased. Ornamental containers are often nothing but a outer shell to cover a plain pot. Clay & ceramic pots can get heavy, especially in the larger sizes. Clay pots absorb and loose moisture through their walls. The greatest accumulation of roots is frequently next to the walls of the clay pot because moisture and nutrients accumulate in the clay pores. Although easily broken, clay pots provide excellent aeration for plant roots and are considered by some to be the healthiest container for a plant. Ceramic pots are usually glazed on the outside and sometimes on the inside. They are frequently designed without drainage. The are best used when a pot with drainage is used for the plant and placed in the ceramic pot for decoration.

Plastic & Fiberglass Plastic and fiberglass containers are usually quite light and easy to handle. They have become popular in recent years because they are relatively inexpensive and quite attractive in shape and color. Plastic pots are easy to sterilize or clean for reuse, and because they are not porous, they need less frequent watering and tend to accumulate few salts than unglazed clay pots.

Other Just about any thing can be used as a container for Indoor Plants. You will probably have to adapt you care practices according to the properties of the selected pot.

What must all indoor plant pots have?

Drainage Drainage is probably the most important part of any pot to be used for an indoor plants. It used to be recommended that you fill the bottom of your pots with gravel or stones to help with drainage. Well research has shown that it actually hinders drainage by creating a perched water table. What is no recommended it to only cover the hole with a stone or piece of broken pottery to prevent the soil from falling out.

Media Artificial mixes. Soil mixes for certain plants.
Sterilizing or pasteurizing. The potting soil or medium in which a plant grows must be good quality. It should be porous for root aeration and drainage but also capable of retaining water and nutrients. Most commercially prepared potting mixes are termed “artificial,” which means they contain no soil. High quality artificial mixes generally contain slow-release fertilizers that fulfill a plant’s nutritional requirements for several months. You should be able to find a commercial mix that best fits your and your plants needs. There are even specialty mixes for specific plants, i.e. Orchids, African Violets, cacti, etc.

Many of these mixes are proprietary, so the exact contents are unknown
Many of these mixes are proprietary, so the exact contents are unknown. All commercial mixes should be sterile, free from insect, diseases and weeds.

Preparing Artificial Mixes
Sphagnum Peat Moss. Perlite or Vermiculite. Ground Lime. Superphospate. or something similar. Chelated Iron. Creating your own artificial mixture is not that difficult. A simple readily available products will make a high quality artificial mix that will suit most plants needs. Your book has the exact amount of these ingredients. If you have examples of the main ingredients you should show them to the class.

Repotting Actively growing indoor plants need repotting from time to time-very rarely with some slower growing plants, more frequently with others. Foliage plants require repotting when their roots have filled the pot and are growing out the bottom.

Repotting When repotting becomes necessary, it should be done without delay. To remove most plants from their pots, hold your hand over the soil, with the plant between the index and middle fingers and knock the lip of the container against a solid object soil should be moist.

Repotting The pot selected fro repotting should be no more than 2 inches larger in diameter than the pot the plant is currently growing in. Potting media should be moistened before repotting begins. After placing the plant in the new pot, fill void space with more media and water to settle.

Watering When to water. Water quantity. Water quality.
Methods of application. Special considerations. Over- and under-watering account for a large percentage of tropical plant losses. The most common question home gardeners ask is, “How often should I water my plants?” The answer: “15 seconds before it wilts”. And if you can figure out when that occurs you can become a very rich person. Of course there is no good answer to that question, there are too many variables; media, containers and environmental influences all affect watering practices. When to water – Indoor plants roots are usually in the bottom two-thirds of the pot, so don’t water until the bottom two-thirds starts to dry out slightly. The best way to know this is to physically monitor the soil moisture content. Your finger is a great instrument for this. Water quantity - water the pot until water runs out of the bottom. This serves two purposes. First, it washes out excess fertilizer residues (salts). Second it guarantees that the bottom two-thirds of the pot receives sufficient water. Water quality – Water should be at room temperature. The best type of water for indoor plants is rainwater or melted snow (yea right, like someone is going to take the time to do that). Distilled water works but can be expensive. Tap water is generally suitable for nearly all plants. Both hard and soft water can contribute to a buildup of excessive salts in the soil. Methods of application – Plants can be watered in several ways. The most common is from the top, with water running out the drain hole. Some plants do better when watered from the bottom. Regardless of the watering method, plants should no sit in water because their roots can rot. Special considerations – certain plants require different watering practices to get good results. Water as need not on a schedule. Succulents, African violets, Bromeliads, Dish gardens & Terrariums.

Fertilizing Advantages. Disadvantages. Timing of applications.
Indoor plants, like most other plants, needs three major elements: nitrogen (N), phosphorus (P) and potassium (K). Advantages: increasing growth of stunted pants, darker green color, increased flowering and increased insect and disease resistance. Disadvantages: overgrown and possibly leggy plants, loss of lower leaves and accumulation of white residue on the soil and pot. That residue is soluble salts, which can cause problems. Timing – Some plants can be fertilized every two weeks, while others will flower well for several months without needing any supplement. As a general rule, use a recommended fertilizer every two weeks from March to September. During winter months, no fertilizer is needed because reduced light and temperatures result in reduced growth. Fertilizing at this time could be detrimental to some indoor plants. Fertilizer should not be put on the soil without being mixed with water. When applying fertilizer in a solution, make sure that some runs out of the bottom of the spot. This practice prevents root burn, soluble salts buildup and over-fertilization and reduces the chance of burning the plant. Fertilizing Indoor Plants Indoor Plants Growing Tip Formulations Crystals Peters Fertilizer is a powder that dissolves in water. Highly concentrated, a small tub lasts long. Liquid: Schultz makes a liquid that is dissolved in water with its built in eyedropper, Schultz is easy to use. Seven drops in a quart of water. Long-lasting Osmocote: Different thickness of coatings release the nutrients over longer intervals. This reduces feeding applications to just a few times a year. N P K Nitrogen Phosphorus Potassium Potash Nitrogen: responsible for green, lush growth. Number represents percentage by weight. Phosphorous: responsible for strong roots and flowering. Potassium: responsible for bright colors, strong stems and disease resistance.

Training and Grooming Pinching. Pruning. Disbudding.
Training on trellises. Cleaning. A number of minor care activities distinguish a more experienced indoor plant grower from the beginner. Pinching - is a form of grooming. It is the removal of 1 inch or less of new stem and leaf growth. Pinch back to just above a node, this leaves the plant more attractive and stimulates new growth. If a plant should be kept compact but bushy, frequent pinching may be required. Pruning – Pruning includes removing more than terminal shoot tips. Sometimes an entire branch or section of a plant should be removed for the sake of appearance or plant health. Disbudding – Certain flower buds are removed to obtain larger blooms from a few choice buds or to prevent flowering in a very young plant or recently rooted cutting that should not bear the physical drain of flowering early. Training on trellises – Ivies and hoya, as well as philodendron and syngonium, are frequently grown in a formal pattern on trellises. Cleaning – It is important to keep plant clean and neat. It not only improve them aesthetically but also helps reduce the incidence of insects and diseases.

Indoor Plant Problems Physiological Disorders. Insect. Mites.
Diseases. Physiological Disorders - The most common problems with indoor plants are physiological, involving watering (too much or too little), light, temperature, humidity and soluble salts. Incorrect watering is the most common water. Other problems include insect, mites, and diseases.

Physiological Disorder
Excess Soluble Salts Excess Soluble Salts. Reduced growth, brown leaf tips, loss of lower leaves, small new growth, dead root tips and wilting may all be signs of excess soluble salts. Soluble salts are minerals dissolved in water. Fertilizer dissolved in water becomes soluble salts. As the salts in the soil become more and more concentrated, plants find it harder and harder to take up water. If salts build up to an extremely high level, they toxic. Plants should be leached every four to six months. You should leach a plant before you fertilize so that you don’t wash away all the fertilizer you just added.

Sun Scald Some plant when placed in direct sunlight may suffer from sunscald. The intense sunlight and heat produced by the direct sunlight damages the plants foliage.

Temperature Extremes Temperature extremes can be very damaging to plants. Heat Cold

Over or Under Watering? Signs of dehydration and over watering Stem and leaf wilt signal dehydration, but you should avoid waiting for this sign. In addition, the soil mixture may pull away from the side of the pot. At this stage a plant is stressed, and repeated treatment of this sort is ill advised. Watch for these signs of dehydration: Leaf growth is slow. Leaves become translucent. Leaves or flowers drop prematurely. Leaf edges become brown and dried. Lower leaves curl and yellow. Frequent watering with small amounts of water can lead to water logging. This forces air from the soil and provides ideal conditions for the growth of fungi and bacteria. These organisms attack the plant’s roots causing rot and plant death. Certain plants thrive in wet conditions--cypress or umbrella plants, for example. Many tropical plants with thin, delicate leaves--hibiscus, for example-- will not thrive in dry soil. Other plants will fail under wet conditions. A late and obvious sign of over watering is growth of fungi or mold on the soil surface. Early signs of over watering signs include: Young and old leaves fall at the same time. Root rot--mushy, brown possibly odorous roots--are seen in pot bottom. Standing water noted in container under liner. Flowers become moldy. Leaves develop brown soft rotten patches and fail to grow.

The plants we use for house plants are subject to the same insect and disease pests as any other plants.

Insect Pest Scale. Aphids. Mealy bugs. Spider mites. Fungus gnats.
Whiteflies. Scale. Mealy bugs. Fungus gnats.

Aphids Plants often sticky and covered with little green or black insects, especially on youngest leaves; leaves may be curled or yellow. Wash off with a hard stream of water. Since ants often tend "herds" of aphids, you may need to control ants as well. Insecticidal Soap work excellent on aphid. Biological control: Aphidoletes is a naturally occurring midge

Spider Mites Leaves are dull-colored, flecked, bronzed, or falling off, the undersides covered with tiny webs; buds or shoots tips may shrivel up; minute arthropods visible with hand-lens. Wash the plant off with a hard stream of water every few days, increase humidity or use insecticidal soap, a miticide or pyrethrin spray. Biological control: Predatory Mites - Pytoseiulus

Thrips Leaves with small dull silvery patches; young leaves sometimes deformed; small (1 mm) insects associated with patches. Thrips are difficult to control indoors; they are frequently resistant to pesticides. Wash plant off with a hard stream of water; remove infested leaves. Biological control: predatory mites and bugs for western flower thrips control. However, biological control alone has not succeeded in reducing thrips populations to acceptable levels. Two commercial formulations of the fungus Beauveria bassiana were tested for their ability to control western flower thrips.

Whitefly Plant often sticky and surrounded by clouds of white insects (whiteflies). Set up sticky traps, use insecticide, or vacuum pests away. Whiteflies lay eggs on leaves, so control measures may need to be repeated when eggs hatch. Biological control: Encarsia

Mealy bugs Plants covered with cottony white wads (mealy bugs)
Mealy bugs Rub off using a Q-tip soaked in alcohol, or scrape off with a toothpick Biological control: Cryptolaemus are introduced as adults, Hypoaspis is a tiny mite that feeds on a range of small insects and is particularly fond of Mealy Bug

Scale Plants often covered with a sticky substance (honeydew) and scab-like incrustation. Scales off using a Q-tip soaked in alcohol, or scrape off with a toothpick. Control crawler stage with insecticidal soap. Biological control: It really depends on what scale you have. Parasitic wasps and nematodes are usually quite effective.

Fungus Gnats Plant surrounded by clouds or black insects (fungus gnats) Fungus gnats Set up sticky traps, use insecticide, or vacuum pests away. Fungus gnats are generally just annoying, but can eat young plant tissue. They lay eggs on rotting plant debris, so the soil surface should be kept clean. Biological Control: These are the entomopathogenic nematode Steinernema feltiae and the soil-predatory mite Hypoaspis miles. Both have proven effective in controlling fungus gnats in commercial greenhouse production systems.

Diseases Diseases are not common to indoor plants, and most are easier to prevent than cure. Prevention includes examining the plant carefully before purchase.

Root Rots Typically over-watering indoor plants leads to root rot problems on Indoor Plants, especially during the winter months when water usage is reduced.

Powdery Mildew Powdery mildew, caused by various fungi, is a common problem on indoor plants during the fall and winter months. African violet, begonia, ivy, jade, miniature rose and Kalanchoe are most commonly affected. Conditions that favor disease development are poor air circulation, low light, and cooler temperatures near 70° F. In contrast to powdery mildew species within the home landscape and home lawn, interior powdery mildew species are better adapted to drier conditions. These fungi tend to be most severe when relatively dry conditions exist. The first sign of infection is white, thread-like fungal growth (mycelia) on infected plant parts. Columns of spores are produced on the mycelia, appearing as a white to gray powdery coating. This coating can be rubbed off with fingers. Spores produced on the powdery growth are blown or water splashed onto healthy plants, where new infections develop. The leaves, stems, buds, and flowers are susceptible to infection, with the majority of infections occurring on the leaves. However, individual powdery blotches also develop frequently on the stems. Severely infected leaves may eventually brown and die, while other leaves may show no sign of infection. Chemical treatments are available for powdery mildew, but cultural controls are usually just as effective for managing powdery mildew within the home. Keep plants in well-ventilated areas and avoid overcrowding. Do not mist plants and avoid wetting the leaves when watering. Choose resistant varieties whenever possible. At the first sign of infection, isolate the plant. Remove and dispose of all infected plant parts. Severely infected plants may need to be discarded. It may be possible to start a new plant by taking a cutting from healthy tissue. There are many preventative fungicides available for powdery mildew. Read labels carefully for application instructions, as most fungicides cannot be sprayed inside the house. Make sure your host plant is listed on the label. Always check the label before applying a fungicide on edible plants, such as herbs. The following fungicides are currently labeled for powdery mildew on various hosts: thiophanate-methyl (Cleary's 3336), Funginex, sulfur, Bayleton, and Bonide Remedy (potassium bicarbonate). Powdery mildew: Fungus .Superficial white powdery growth on leaves and shoots. Many landscape plants are susceptible to the many species of powdery mildew.

A healthy plant will resist insects & diseases better than a stressed plant.
Making sure your indoor plants are growing at their optimum will reduce the potential for insect and disease problems.

Pest Management

The key to any pest management is an accurate identification or diagnosis.
Before any control strategy or management practice can be used you must know what your are dealing with. Buying something off the shelf and spraying on your plants in not only dangerous but the perfect road to failure.

Plant Problems - Diagnostics Table
Symptoms/Signs Problem Corrective Action brown edges on leaves too much salt water to wash excess salts from soil brown spots on stems & leaves infected with something cut off effected areas, diagnose pathogen fuzzy globs on leaves or stems aphids or mealybugs are eating me remove insects, swab with rubbing alcohol healthy leaves, no flowers needs more light move to area with more light pale tunnels or patches on leaves leaf miners are eating me cut off affected areas pale, stunted plants insects are eating me remove insects, wash with soapy water need more drainage give better drainage need more fertilizer add fertilizer powdery growth on leaves infected with powdery mildew cut off affected areas, move away from other plants purplish, stunted plants need more phosphorus add P fertilizer warped leaves infected with something cut off affected areas, diagnose pathogen weak, leggy plants need more light too crowded separate from other plants too much nitrogen reduce fertilizer too wet give better drainage, reduce watering white spots on leaves or stems spider mites are eating me wilting plant infected with something cut off affected area, diagnose pathogens wilting plant too cold put in sheltered area too dry water check roots for rot, give more drainage yellow & green speckled pattern on leaves infected with virus pull infected plants to prevent spread This table shows just some of the problems that your house plants can experience. As you can see, different problems have similar symptoms. Don’t jump to any conclusions, always get an experts opinion before taking any corrective action.

Monitoring Scouting. Trapping. Weather. Degree days.
Scouting - regular visual examination of plants. Trapping - chemical and visual. Weather - used to predict conditions suitable for disease or insect development. Degree days - number of heat units accumulated on a day to day basis.

Types of Management Strategies
Biological. Cultural. Chemical. Biological - When humans introduce or manage natural enemies to suppress pest populations. Cultural - things you can do to reduce pest numbers. Chemical - synthetic products used to manage pests.

Biological Control Predators. Parasites. Pathogens.
Predators use other living organisms as a food source. They come in many forms, and include: Ladybird beetles Predatory Mites Lacewings Praying Mantis Spiders True Bugs Birds Bats Parasites – Insect parasites use their prey mainly as a food source for their developing young. Wasp Nematodes Pathogens – are naturally diseases of the pest, not the plants. Fungi Bacteria Virus

Chemical Control Least Toxic Products. Follow All Label Instructions.
Horticultural Oil. Insecticidal Soap. NEEM Oil. Follow All Label Instructions. Chemical control should be used only when absolutely necessary. When choosing which pesticide to use, always choose the least toxic product available that will still be effective. ALWAYS READ & FOLLOW ALL LABEL INSTRUCTIONS.

Propagating Indoor Plants

Propagating Indoor Plants
Sexual propagation. Vegetative propagation. Sooner or later most indoor gardeners get involved in propagating some of their prized plants. Two types of propagation are possible since plants reproduce themselves in two ways; sexually and vegetatively. Sexual reproduction is accomplished through seeds. The resulting offspring may or may not have the attributes which made the parents so desirable. In addition, seeds may be slow to germinate, and seedlings may take several seasons to achieve attractive size. For these reasons, seeds, except in a few special cases, do not offer the home gardener the best route to the production of most new, indoor plants. Vegetative reproduction involves using parts of an original plant to make new plants. The latter, strictly speaking, are not offspring of the parent but should be regarded as younger versions of that original plant. They are true clones. The common usage of terms such as mother, daughter, and the like often leads to confusion on this aspect of vegetative plant propagation. The most frequently used processes for propagating indoor plants involve divisions, offsets, cuttings, and layering. Generally, one of these is preferred over the others depending upon the individual plant species. Guidebooks on indoor plants usually point out such propagative preferences.

Sexual Propagation Seeds.
Indoor plants are rarely grown from seed. Seed saved from hybrids will not produce plants like the plants that produced the seeds. Germination requirements for all seeds are moisture, temperature, oxygen and light. Seeds differ in their requirements. Some seeds have a physical dormancy and require scarification, which involves scratching, sanding or cracking the seed coat so moisture and oxygen can enter. Other seeds have an embryo dormancy that requires a period of moist chilling called stratification. Duration and temperature vary with the type of seed.

Vegetative (Asexual) Propagation
Spores. Division (Separation). Air layering. Cuttings. Runners, Stolons & Rhizomes. Vegetative propagation can take many forms and is most often used to propagate indoor plants. Spores Division (Separation) Runners, Stolons & Rhizomes Air layering Cuttings

Spores Fern reproduce via spores produced on the undersides of leaves. Ferns do not flower, so these spores or sori, are not classified as seeds. Dry spores must be placed on a medium with high organic content, such as peat moss. Cover the container with clear plastic to maintain a high humidity. The first growth produced will resemble tiny moss, followed by a prothallus and then true fronds. This is a slow difficult process with a high failure rate.

Division This form of propagation involves separating plants that produce multiple crowns, which are the parts of the plants at the ground’s surface where new plants arise around the parent plant. Crowns can be split apart and the divisions potted up separately. It is important to separate roots with the crown.

Runners & Stolons These are modified stems with small plants attached. Stolons and runners can be separated from the parent plants, or the plantlet can be left attached and pinned down to a soil surface in an adjoining pot. When roots develop, separate the plantlets. Rhizomes can be cut from the parent plant and nestled gently into the soil surface/ There should be some leaves and roots attached.

Air Layering Air layering is a popular method for propagating indoor plants which have woody stems. Using this technique, which was adapted from the ancient Chinese, roots can be produced on stems above the soil level. Air layering can be done at any time of year, but spring appears to give most consistent successes. This method will give a new plant for each layered stem. Air layering involves one of two possible procedures depending upon plant species. The first step, common to both, is choosing a healthy plant with a sizeable stem near its top. Whenever possible new wood, one year or slightly less in age, should be used. Somewhat immature wood roots more easily than older stock. Remove leaves for several inches near the point where the cut is to be made. The first method, which is commonly used with dieffenbachia species, involves making an upward slanting cut about one-third of the way through the stem at a point about one foot from the top. The cut is then propped open with a toothpick laid across the exposed tissue. This prevents the wood from healing which inhibits root production. The second method gives good results with a variety of plants including schefflera, croton, dracaena, rubber tree, indoor fig, and hibiscus. At a point eight to fifteen inches from its tip cut a ring of outside bark about one inch wide around the selected stem, and remove it completely. Note that with some species, air layering of side shoots does not give satisfactory results. Carefully scrape away any remaining, tan cambium tissue in the exposed area; do not cut into the pale green under layer. The rest of the procedure is again common to the two methods described above. Lightly dust the wound with rooting hormone. Moisten some unmilled sphagnum peat moss, wring out excess moisture to get damp tea-bag consistency, and then completely wrap the cut area with enough damp moss to get a baseball-size dressing. Cover the peat moss with waterproof polyethylene plastic, and secure each end in place with twist ties or waterproof tape. The peat moss must remain moist for the duration of the rooting process-anywhere from four to sixteen weeks. Inspect it frequently, and add a small amount of water if required. When roots can be seen to fill the peat moss ball, carefully remove the plastic cover. Do not remove the peat moss. Cut the new plant off just below the new root area and pot it up, moss and all, using a suitable potting mixture for your species. Before long, expect to see new shoots develop on your new plant. Unless more air layers are desired, the parent plant can be discarded. In some species, however, the old, bottom portion can often regrow into a rejuvenated, fairly attractive plant; for example-dracaena.

Cuttings Stem Cutting Leaf Cutting Whole Leaf. Leaf Sections.
Leaf-bud cuttings. Leaf piece. Entire leaf blade and petiole. Entire leaf blade with cut veins. Viviparous leaves. Succulent/Cacti. Cuttings Many types of plants, both woody and herbaceous, are frequently propagated by cuttings. A cutting is a vegetative plant part which is severed from the parent plant in order to regenerate itself, thereby forming a whole new plant. Take cuttings with a sharp blade to reduce injury to the parent plant. Dip the cutting tool in rubbing alcohol or a mixture of one part bleach to nine parts water to prevent transmitting diseases from infected plant parts to healthy ones. Remove flowers and flower buds to allow the cutting to use its energy and stored carbohydrates for root and shoot formation rather than fruit and seed production. With large-leaved cuttings (i.e., Rhododendron) and limited space in the propagation container, trimming up to half the leaf length can improve efficiency, as well as light and air circulation for all the cuttings. To hasten rooting, increase the number of roots, or to obtain uniform rooting (except on soft, fleshy stems), use a rooting hormone, preferably one containing a fungicide. Prevent possible contamination of the entire supply of rooting hormone by putting some hormone in a separate container for dipping cuttings. Discard this hormone after all the cuttings are treated. Place stem and leaf cuttings in bright, indirect light. Root cuttings can be kept in the dark until new shoots appear. STEM CUTTINGS The most common way of propagating is to take a stem cutting and root it in sand, perlite, vermiculite, peat moss or a combination of these mediums. Start by preparing your mix and washing the container you plan to use with hot soap and water. Also make sure the bottom of the container has drainage holes. The container you use can be a clay pot or a plastic flat, but it should be fairly small and shallow. Water the plants well the night before you plan to cut the stems. The stem you use to cut should be actively growing but not too immature. The best cuts are what are known as “tip cuttings” where the stem as cut at the end. The stem should be about 5-6 inches long and have several leaves on it. Cut with a clean blade at an angle just below the node, which is where the leaf joins the stem. Dip each end of the cut stem into a root-inducing hormone powder or paint hormone powder that enables the cutting to root more quickly. Make a hole in the soil (about one to two inches deep) then stick the stem down inside spreading the soil out in the container so that the stem will firmly stand up. Put a couple of tall stakes in the soil and cover with plastic. Place the cuttings in an area that gets plenty of light but should not get direct light. LEAF CUTTINGS Cut a young leaf with about 1 1/2 to 2 inches of stem left attached and use the same procedure as you would with stem cuttings. However, you do not need to cover leaf cuttings with plastic. When tiny plantlets form, transplant them into individual pots after they have developed root systems. Good plants to use for this type of propagating are African violets and begonias. Jade, geraniums and cactus are easy to root this way, also. You can also root leaf and stem cuttings in jars of water. However, water can rot the roots so this is not always the best way to propagate. If you do though, be sure to transplant as soon as the plant does root, because mature roots do not easily make the transition from water to soil. Leaf Cuttings A single leaf, carefully detached from many houseplants is often sufficient to start a new plant, and is the preferred method for propagating many plant, e.g., Adromischus, African Violets (shown), Crassulas, many Kalanchoes, Sansevieria and many cacti. For succulents, the leaf is allowed to dry for a few days so that the tissues seal and callus over at the base and is then placed against the edge of the plant pot with the stem end touching the potting medium. This usually works better than burying the bottom end of the leaf as it is less likely to rot. Keep the soil moist but not wet, and cover with plastic to retain humidity. After some time, roots will be seen to form, followed by small leaves as the new plant starts to develop. Whole Leaf Cuttings: are prepared from leaves with or without their stalks (called petioles). Roots and leaves will eventually form at the base of the leaf (Figure 3). Peperomia and African violets are commonly started by whole leaf cuttings. Leaf Section Cuttings: can be used for propagating plants like the Rex begonia and snake plant. The leaves are cut into pieces, with the edge of the cuttings closest to the base of the parent plant inserted into the rooting medium. There are a number of other types of leaf cutting propagating techniques in your book. We won’t go into them now, but you can read about them in your book.

Seasonal Potted Plants
After-flowering care. Care of special potted plants. People often give and receive seasonal flowering plants as gifts. Some of these can be made to re-flower and often other cannot. After the plant flowers, you can keep it and maintain it as a foliage plant, care for it until it re-flowers or take it on one-way trip to the compost pile.

Poinsettia The poinsettia requires bright light and protection from drafts. Gardeners frequently ask whether they can carry their poinsettia over to bloom the next year. Whether the results are worth the efforts is questionable. The quality of home-grown plants seldom equals that of the commercially grown plants.

Azalea Azaleas require direct sunlight and acidic soil to remain health. Azaleas can be planted, pot and all, in a shady spot in the garden during the summer. Examine them frequently and keep them watered during dry periods. Greenhouse azaleas are not hardy and need to be brought indoors before freezing weather. Azaleas need a cool rest treatment before they are forced into bloom. Unless you have the proper growing conditions for the azalea, you should not attempt to carry the plants over.

Gardenia Gardenia grown indoors need special care. They demand an acid soil and the frequent fertilization.

Amaryllis The secret of growing amaryllis is to keep the plants actively growing after they finish blooming. Keep them in full sun with night temperature above 60 degrees F. As soon as danger of frost has passed, set the plants in your garden in a semi-shady spot. In the fall, before danger of frost, bring them in and store them in a cool, dark place to rest. They will be ready to force again about January 1.

Christmas Cactus The Christmas cactus has become increasingly popular with the development of several new varieties. At least three related species and a number of cultivars are sold. The secret of good bloom seems to be temperature and photoperiod control. The plants will develop buds and bloom if given bright light, short day and night temperatures between 55 and 65 degrees F.

Cyclamen Cyclamen require full sunlight and a night temperature of between 50 and 60 degrees F. They are heavy users of water and must be watered whenever the surface of the soil is dry. Flower buds will fail to develop if the night temperature is too high or if light is poor. Cyclamen can be carried over, but homegrown plants are seldom equal to those grown by a commercial growers. Let the plant die down after they finish flowering. Repot the fleshy corm in June with the top of the crown above the soil line. Allow resting corms to dry but not become shriveled.

Specialized Indoor Gardens
Terrariums. Dish gardens. Bonsai. Topiary & Standards. Now lets take a look at some specialized indoor gardens. We will look at terrarium, dish gardens, bonsai, topiary & standards.

Terrarium Terrarium are clear-sided containers have no drain holes and usually have a whole or partial clear top and have been around since Victorian times. Many terrariums need to be watered only once every two weeks. Water down the side of the glass to avoid disturbing the soil. A well drained soil or soilless medium should be added. All plants chosen should have the same light and moisture requirements. Exclude plants that cannot tolerate above average humidity. Objects such as rocks or shells can be added to create visual interest.

Dish Garden These are shallow containers with low sides and no drain holes. Often plants chosen for dish gardens are succulents that must be watered carefully to prevent soggy soil an root rots. It is best to use a soil or soilless medium high in organic matter. Put a layer of gravel at the bottom of the dish.

Bonsai Bonsai (pronounced bone-sigh) is an art form. This highly specialized horticultural practice began in ancient Japan. Woody plants, usually trees, are naturally or artificially dwarfed to give them the look of ancient trees in windswept places. Plants are both top pruned and root pruned. Many of the trees chosen cannot exist year round in the house. A number must go through a period of dormancy in a protected outdoor spot each year. Other plants can be chosen for bonsai. Before purchasing the first pant, it’s a good idea to read extensively on pruning, care and training.

Topiary & Standard There are several forms of topiary. One involves intensively pruning shrubs or trees into the clipped form resembles an animal or geometric form. The other begins with a shaped chicken-wire form stuffed with moss and occasionally a soilless medium. Small cuttings of a vine such as ivy are pinned down to the form and trained over the surface until the form is covered. Trees trimmed to resemble balls on a stick are called standards. With plants such a scented geraniums or rosemary, the lower branches are removed to leave a bare stem. In all cases, more intensive care especially in pruning and shaping, are required than with most indoor plants.

Common Indoor Plants There are many different plants that can be used as indoor plants. Let look at a some.

Aglaonema modestum (Chinese Evergreen)
This tropical foliage plant is one of the most durable house plants. It tolerates poor light, dry air, air-conditioning and drought.Grow in moderate daylight (1,600 lux); warm temperatures, 68° to 77° F; low to moderate humidity. Will grow in water; pot in standard soil; mix with extra humus; let soil dry between watering - needs little moisture. Propagate by division, stem cuttings rooted in warmth, seed, or stem sections. NOTE: If bottom leaves fall so lower stem becomes bare, cut off top and re-root.

Aspidistra elatior (Cast-iron Plant)
As the name implies, these are hardy house plants enduring heat, dust, poor light and lack of moisture. Grow in low to moderate daylight (they dislike sunlight); moderate temperatures, 65° to 68°F: low to moderate humidity. Pot in standard potting mix; keep barely moist. Propagate by division. NOTE: Flowers are produced at the base of the Plant.

Chamaedorea elegans (Parlor Palm)
Palms make elegant tub plants for large rooms, offices and patios. Most varieties are well adapted to indoor cultivation, and will not grow too large under household conditions if kept in large pots. They will stand direct sun, but prefer indirect light; moderate temperatures 68° to 86°F; moderate to high humidity - dry air causes leaf browning. Pot firmly in organic soil; keep soil evenly moist. Keep leaves clean. They can remain in the same pot for several years if fed occasionally and top-dressed once a year. Propagate from seed in moist heat; air-layering division. Phoenix dactylifera (Date Palm) is a large growing specimen while dwarf members of the same genus Phoenix canariensis and Phoenix roebelenii prefer cool, airy conditions. Phoenix roebelenii is a durable house plant and seldom grows over three feet (one m) in height. They are often grown in dish gardens and terrariums in indirect sunlight, warmth and moist soil. Kentia palms are the easiest to cultivate. They can grow very tall. Neanthe palms are small and graceful, highly adaptable to household conditions tolerating low light. They are often used in dish gardens or terrarium arrangements.

Monstera deliciosa (Split-leaf Philodendron)
Monstera is often confused with the split-leaved philodendron, and is sometimes sold under the name Philodendron pertusum. Both are hardy, easy-to-grow house plants, enduring low light, a wide range of temperatures, dust and draught and low humidity. Grow in diffused sunlight or daylight; warm temperatures, 74° to 84°F moderate humidity. Pot in standard soil mix; extra organic matter is desirable; keep barely moist. Needs a large pot. Propagate from stem cuttings; stem sections; air-layering. NOTE: Monstera produces aerial roots. The plant grows better if these are led down into the soil, or trained to grow into a totem (moss-covered pole). Leaves turn brown if exposed to drafts and fluctuating temperatures. If plant grows too tall, cut back hard.

Sansevieria trifasciata (Snake Plant)
Known by many names, this succulent is one of the most durable, easy-to-grow house plants. It is able to withstand drought, poor light, drafts, low humidity, temperature fluctuation and neglect. Overwatering is its greatest enemy. Grow in diffused sunlight or moderate daylight; moderate warmth 65° to 74°F; low to moderate humidity. Pot in standard soil mixture, let dry well before watering. Propagate by division or horizontal leaf sections four to five inches ( cm) inserted one-third their length in rooting medium. Variegated types yield non-variegated progeny.

Schefflera actinophylla (Umbrella Tree)
Hardy rapidly growing house plants, grow well in offices. Grow in direct sunlight or bright indirect light; warm temperatures 68° to 86°F; low to medium humidity. Pot in standard potting soil; let dry between waterings. Propagate from stem cuttings.

Cissus rhombifolia (Grape Ivy)
These are very tough room plants, tolerating shade, sun, dry air and gas fumes. They can be trained to grow up a trellis. Grow in filtered sunlight; moderate temperatures 65° to 74°F; moderate to high humidity. Pot in standard potting soil; let dry between waterings. Propagate from stem cuttings. NOTE: To encourage compact, bushy growth, pinch back growing tips

Dieffenbachia amoena (Dumbcane)
These large foliage plants are good house plants. They tolerate poor light if well established but tend to drop their lower leaves for various reasons, including insufficient light and possibly low soil potash. Grow in indirect sunlight; warn temperatures, 68° to 79°F low to medium humidity. Pot in standard potting mix; let dry between waterings, dieffenbachias often suffer from over-watering. Propagate by air-layering or laying cane sections in rooting medium. NOTE: If lower leaves drop and stem is left bare, air-layer the top and plant when roots have developed. The sap is toxic to open cuts; use rubber gloves when taking cuttings. If the sap gets in your mouth it can cause temporary loss of speech.

Dracaena fragrans (Corn Plant)
Dracaenas are good house plants because they tolerate low light and have attractive variegated foliage. Grow in moderate daylight; warm temperatures 68° to 79°F; low to medium humidity. Pot in standard soil mix; keep evenly moist. Can be grown in water. Propagate from stem cuttings; air-layering; stem sections. NOTE: When the bare stem beneath the foliage gets too long, air-layer the tops foliage should be kept clean.

Ficus benjamina (Weeping Fig)
The Ficus family is diverse with over eight hundred species and thousands of varieties. Most of these originate in the Old World tropics. Ficus benjamina is commonly known as the weeping fig and can originally be found in India, northern Australia, and Southeast Asia. The Ficus benjamina can get very large and is found growing both in full sun all the way down to the heavy shaded dense forest. The Ficus is a very versatile plant as far as light goes. In the full sun it will have a thick canopy of leaves. But, in the dense forest it will grow very open with fewer leaves and thin weeping branches. This explains some of the leaf loss going from a higher light level to a lower light level. This is why every time you move that ficus from one room to another or turn it around you lose leaves.

Ficus elastica (Rubber Plant)
They prefer diffused daylight; warmth 68° to 79°F; medium to high humidity. Grow in humus potting soil; keep moist. Keep leaves clean. Do not use too large a pot as over-watering can become a problem. Propagate from leaf or stem cutting sin warmth; air-layering. NOTE: Leaves drop if temperature fluctuates or plants are watered with highly chlorinated water. Miniature varieties grow well in bottle gardens. If lower leaves drop and too much stem is exposed, air-layer the top.

Ficus lyrata (Fiddle-leaf Fig)
They prefer diffused daylight; warmth 68° to 79°F; medium to high humidity. Grow in humus potting soil; keep moist. Keep leaves clean. Do not use too large a pot as over-watering can become a problem. Propagate from leaf or stem cuttings in warmth; air-layering. NOTE: Leaves drop if temperature fluctuates or plants are watered with highly chlorinated water. Miniature varieties grow well in bottle gardens. If lower leaves drop and too much stem is exposed, air-layer the top.

Hedera helix (English Ivy)
There are hundreds of varieties of ivy all having similar requirements, they are sturdy, adaptable house plants. They can be trained up a trellis or stake, or pinched back continually to develop into tough bushy plants. Grow in moderate daylight; fairly cool temperature 60° to 74°F; moderate humidity (leaf tips turn brown if grown in dry air). Grow in well-drained standard potting soil; keep barely moist. Will grow in water. Propagate easily from stem cuttings. NOTE: Pinching back stems while the plant is young induces branching and bushy growth.

Nephrolepsis exaltata (Boston Fern)
Very attractive evergreen fern. Erect, narrow, sword-shaped bright green fronds arise from creeping surface roots in wonderful clusters for a woodsy effect in shaded areas. Great for hanging baskets. Partial to full shade. Fast-growing to 3 to 4 feet high, spread indefinite. Spore grown. Non-hardy.

Philodendron selloum (Split Leaf Philodendron)
Most people, however, encounter Philodendron Selloum as a houseplant or even more frequently as part of the interior landscape of an office or lobby. In this environment the plant is considerably smaller than in nature. Its leaves are of the “juvenile” type, either heart-shaped or with a few lobes. The “adult” foliage, finely cut bipinnate (feather-like) leaves, is rarely produced. In addition, a Philodendron Selloum grown indoors almost never flowers. They must be large in size and at least 15 – 20 years old in order to bloom. This may be why, up until recently, the unusual properties of their flowers were not recognized.

Saintpaulia species (African Violet)
The most popular of flowering house plants, the African violet is easy to grow, and flowers year round. Grow in diffused sunlight in summer, full sunlight in winter; hot sun causes leaf scorch; moderate temperatures 65° to 74°F; temperature fluctuations cause leaf drop; high humidity. Dislikes drafts, hot dry air and cold water. Special African violet potting mixes and fertilizers are available. They grow well in standard potting mix; let dry between watering. Stems are very susceptible to rot; fertilize regularly with a dilute solution during blooming season. Leaf spots develop if water is splashed on leaves; leaves are sensitive to salt so must not contact the rim of the pot. This can be avoided by coating the rim with paraffin. Propagate easily from leaf petiole cuttings; seed with warmth; and division of multiple crowns. NOTE: To develop symmetrical leaf formation, turn plants one-quarter turn each week. After flowering, it is a good idea to rest plants by reducing watering, withholding fertilizer, and placing in a cool room 12°C (55°F).

Spathiphyllum (Peace Lily)
Spathiphyllum are attractive indoor foliage plants which tolerate very low light levels. Spathiphyllum produce a showy white inflorescence, consisting of a hood-shaped spathe surrounding the spadix, which adds to their ornamental value. For this reason, Spathiphyllum are often called Peace Lilies and or White Anthuriums. There are 26 Spathiphyllum cultivars listed in the Foliage Plant Locator.

Aloe barbadensis (Aloe Vera)
Habitat: Requires a well-drained soil and a very sunny position. Plants are tolerant of poor soils. If trying to grow this plant outdoors then it will need the sunniest and warmest area in the garden plus some protection from winter cold (a glass frame perhaps). This species is not very cold-hardy outdoors, it is best grown in a pot placed outdoors in the summer and put in a greenhouse for the winter. It grows very well in a sunny windowsill. Aloe vera is a fairly well known herbal preparation that is often available in proprietary herbal preparations. It has two distinct types of medicinal use. The clear gel contained within the leaf makes an excellent treatment for wounds, burns and other skin disorders, placing a protective coat over the affected area, speeding up the rate of healing and reducing the risk of infection. This action is in part due to the presence of aloectin B, which stimulates the immune system. To obtain this gel, the leaves can be cut in half along their length and the inner pulp rubbed over the affected area of skin. This has an immediate soothing effect on all sorts of burns and other skin problems.

Araucaria heterophylla (Norfolk Island Pine)
Light: bright Temperature: cool Watering: moderate Humidity: humid Soil: acidic prefered Pests and Problems: scales, leaves dropping off indicate root rot, limb branches indicate too high heat Growth habit, uses: houseplant, outdoor tree to 200' in tropics Other interest: native to Norfolk Islands, being originally discovered by Capt. Cook; related to other popular tropical trees such as Monkey Puzzle Tree (araucana); named for the Arauco Indians of Chile where araucana is native Other culture: repot every 2-3 years; use acidic fertilizer for best growth; often becomes too large for interior spaces; often does poorly in dry, warm centrally heated homes Propagation: seed, tip cuttings are difficult

Crassula argentea (Jade Plant)
Jade plants are best grown in very bright sunlight with low humidity, however if the plant is accustomed to dimmer light, you must move it into the sun in stages. Jades will sunburn if they are not used to the full sun. Jades are best grown between 55F at night and F during the day, however they will tolerate temperatures down to 40F. They should be repotted every two to three years. Use a well drained commercial potting soil mixed equally with sharp builder sand, and a scoop of bone meal added. The optimum soil ph is 6.5. Jade plants have an active and a dormant growing cycle. Watering and feeding are determined by the cycle. During the spring and summer months keep the soil slightly moist . Water liberally, approximately once per week but allow for slight drying between watering. Remove any excess water from pot saucer. Fertilize with a or ratio soluble plant food every two weeks. African violet food works very well for most succulents. Keep plant dry during the winter months as plant has a slight dormancy. Do not fertilize from November through March. Typically, all healthy Jades will bloom, usually around Christmas, in the northern hemisphere. Blooming is triggered by the natural shortening of the days. If your plant is in a room which usually has lights turned on at night, it will more than likely fail to bloom for you. Try to find a suitable, naturally lighted place for the Jade sometime in early October, along with your Christmas cactus. Your plant will do the rest for you!

Platycerium bifurcatum (Staghorn Fern)
Staghorn Fern is one of the more unusual and challenging house plants. It grows without its roots in soil and produces 2 types of fronds. One type is the branched frond that gives the plant its name. The other round, flat frond forms a collar around the branched fronds. The round frond may be 3 to 4 inches across on young plants but 3 to 4 feet across on older plants. The plant is mounted on a slab of redwood, pine, or cork. The flat round frond is the basal frond and is wired onto the slab. A mixture of peat moss, oak leaves and chopped sphagnum moss is put between the basal frond and the wood slab. Keep the plant moderately moist. Little fertilizer is needed but once a year place fresh potting mixture between the slab and the basal frond. Ideal temperatures are between 60 degrees and 80 degrees F. Avoid spraying the leaves.

Hibiscus rosa-sinensis (Chinese Hibiscus)
The Chinese hibiscus, or tropical hibiscus, has the botanical name Hibiscus rosa-sinensis. A shrub usually no more that 3' tall when grown in a pot, its 4"-8" flowers are open for only one day, but they may be produced in profusion and come in many colors - white, yellow, orange, red, pink - and ruffled or fringed, single or double. In its native tropical habitat it blooms for most of the year, slowing down only in the cool, or dry, or wet season, as the case may be. In the Midwest, the seasonal climatic changes are much more extreme. While the Chinese hibiscus loves to be out in full sun in our hot and humid summer and will bloom profusely there, it must be brought in before first frost. How you handle it in the winter depends on your facilities. If you have a greenhouse or a sunny garden room that is fairly warm, and your hibiscus can be in sun for several hours each day, you can keep it full-foliaged and blooming, at least to some degree, through the winter. The frequency of watering and fertilizing should be reduced from the summer maximum; the soil should continue to be kept evenly moist but not saturated, but the frequency of waterings to achieve this will be reduced as the plant's activity slows.

Schlumbergera spp (Christmas Cactus)
These succulents make good basket plants. They are epiphytic jungle cacti; they grow on trees in their natural state. They produce brilliant flowers in winter. Grow in filtered sunlight; beginning in September they must receive at least 12 hours of complete darkness each day to produce flowers, during fall, cool temperatures 54°F are necessary to induce bud set. Once buds form warmer temperatures 60° to 74°F are necessary; medium humidity. Pot in rich organic soil; keep moist in winter, spring and summer - in fall let dry between watering. Fertilize regularly, except in fall. Propagate from pieces of branch, two or three inches (5 to 8 cm) long.

Peperomia Low-growing house plants, adaptable to cool conditions and dim light if not overwatered. Excellent for bottle gardens and terrariums. Grow in bright, diffused sunlight; warm temperatures 74° to 84°F; moderate humidity. Pot in standard potting soil; allow to dry between waterings as stems are prone to rot. Propagate easily from stem and leaf petiole cuttings.

Scindapsus aureus (Devil’s Ivy, Pothos)
This is a climbing vine which can be trained up a stake or totem, like the vining philodendron. Grow in indirect sunlight; warm temperatures, 74° to 84°F; moderate humidity. Grow in standard potting mix with extra organic matter; always let dry between waterings. Propagate from stem cuttings. NOTE: Variegated forms lose their color if grown in poor light.

Hoya carnosa (Wax Plant)
These are durable house plant with decorative leaves. They are natural climbers but can become bushy plants if kept pinched back. They flower if kept warm and moist and rested in winter. Grow in moderate daylight (tolerate poor light); keep warm, 65° to 79°F in spring and summer; moderate to high humidity preferred. soil must be well-drained; use standard potting soil with extra humus. Soak well at each watering, then allow to dry before watering again. Use small pots. Propagate from stem cuttings in warmth. NOTE: Fall and winter dormancy is necessary - keep cool, and reduce watering (just enough to prevent shrivelling). Do not cut off old flower stems, as new flowers are produced here. Buds may drop if pots are turned when in bud, due to the change of light direction.

Philodendron A common house plant because of its ability to tolerate drought, dust, dim light, dry air and neglect. They can be climbers or non-climbers; the climbing varieties produce aerial roots which can be rooted in moss by training them up a totem; the non-climbers will need additional support by pinning them to a stake inserted in the back of the pot when they get large. Grow in indirect sunlight during July and August - direct sunlight scorches foliage; warm temperatures, 68° to 79°F; moderate to high humidity. Pot in organic soil; keep moist; can be grown in water. Keep leaves clean. Propagate from cane sections; leaf stem cuttings; air-layering seed. NOTE: If plant becomes too tall or leggy, cut back to force branching. Brown, cracked leaves are a result of neglect or extremely bad conditions. Split-leaf philodendrons will not split in poor light.

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