1. LIFE10 ENV/IT/000364 «ECOFATTING» «Environmentally friendly natural products instead of cloroparaffines in the fatting phase of the tanning cycle» EMILIA BRAMANTI ICCOM-PISA, CNR Coordinator Final Meeting, ICCOM CNR Pisa December11th 2013

2. AGENDA 9,45: Welcome to the partecipants and beneficiaries’ presentation (roles in the project) 10.00: technical session -project overview: objective, actions, state of progress (ICCOMCNR) -Action by action description of the activities implemented (including dissemination) -Results achieved, future developments and possible critical issues Financial session (parallel to technical session) -Short introduction, state of project expenditures (by Coordinating Beneficiary) -Check of the accounting system, management and financial documentation -Discussion with European Commission and External Monitoring Team 13.00 Break

3. Summary of the Project PROJECT’S TARGET Replacing chlorinated hydrocarbons (CPs and SCPs) used in leather manufacturing as lubricating and tanning agents Drawbacks: -high chlorine content -low biodegradability The GREEN ALTERNATIVE PRODUCTS: A set of derivatives from natural products based on Fatty Acid Methyl Ester (FAME- Cl) were selected as best candidates. Selection criteria was based on the carbon chain lenght (C 12 –C 18 ) and the chlorine content INNOVATIVE EFFECTS -Increased penetration of fat in derma, thus resulting more effective products - better performances -less wastewater contamination -higher biodegradability -High aesthetical profile (touch and fullnessI)

4. Actions carried out by each partner ACTIONS fat agents environmental impact natural products laboratory level semi-industrial level pre-industrial level environmental demo environ benefits quality assessment tecnico-econ viability Manual Leather sample book material for workshops diffusion mat prep Italian training Spanish training Italy workshop Spain workshop fairs Intern fairs /other events digital supports international dissemination After-LIFE Comm Plan Project management Monitoring audit COLORTEX, ICCOM, SERICHIM, ENEA INESCOP............ COLORTEX, ICCOM, SERICHIM, ENEA COLORTEX, SERICHIM, INESCOP COLORTEX, SERICHIM INESCOP COLORTEX, ICCOM, SERICHIM, ENEA, INESCOP ICCOM, ENEA, INESCOP COLORTEX, SERICHIM, INESCOP ENEA.......... COLORTEX, INESCOP COLORTEX, ICCOM, SERICHIM, ENEA, INESCOP COLORTEX......... INESCOP........... COLORTEX........... INESCOP........... COLORTEX, ICCOM, SERICHIM, ENEA, INESCOP ENEA........... COLORTEX, ICCOM, SERICHIM, ENEA, INESCOP ENEA........... ICCOM...........

5. Activity reports  Kick off meeting on January 18 th 2012 (COLORTEX, Italy)  6 th month meeting on June 2012 (ICCOM CNR, Italy) and 1 st monitoring team visit  Inception Report submitted on September 2012  12 th month meeting on January 2013 (SERICHIM, Italy)  Progress Report submitted on May 2013  Deliverables submitted (Action 1-2; 3; 4; 5 and 14)  18 th month meeting on June 2013 (INESCOP, Spain)  2 nd Monitoring Team visit on June 25 th 2013 (ICCOMCNR)  24 th month meeting on December 11 th 2013 (ICCOM CNR) NEXT COMMITMENTS:  Final meeting (December 2013, ICCOMCNR)  Deliverables of Actions 6, 7-8, 10, 20, 14/ 21, 13-22, 20, 23)  Final Report with payment request (January 2014)  Audit (Deliverable Action 25)

6. ICCOM CNR activities 18-24 months DISSEMINATION ACTIONS 6, 7, 9 -Quality assessment of leather and products by GC-MS and FTIR

7. Networking and continuation and valorization of the project PODEBA Life10 ENV/IT/365 « Use of poultry dejection in the bating fase in the tanning cycle” LIFE12 ENV/IT/000352 “BIONAD «Naturalised dyes replacing commercial colorants for environmentally friendly leather dyeing and water recycle” Life 20??: the LIFE of LIFEs is in the air...

8. GAS CHROMATOGRAPHY-MASS SPECTROMETRIC ANALYSIS OF LEATHER AND PRODUCTS TREATED FOLLOWING THE AMEK PROCEDURE (PODEBA) AND FATTED WITH ECOFATTING PRODUCTS. Injection Volume 1000  L Incubation Temperature and time60°C for 1800 s Syringe Temperature65 °C InjectorSplit: 10:1 Temperature200°C ColumnDB624 60 m 0.25 mm i.d. 1.4 mm d f Gas Flow1.0 ml/min He Chromatographic conditions30 °C for 5 min up to 240 °C (10.00 °C/min) in 10.00 min DetectorMS FULL_SCAN 10-350 M/z EI 70 eV MS temp 230°C Head space CGMS analysis of fresh and treated poultry in order to evidence the main compounds responsible for the bad smell and the effect of PODEBA treatment. One g of each poultry sample was placed in a 10 mL vial. Head space GCMS method for poultry, leather and products treated with PODEBA procedure.

9. HS-GCMS system CG6850 coupled to MS 5975C MSD and HS autosampler CombiPal CTC-80 (Agilent Technologies, Milan, Italy).

10. Representative head space GCMS chromatogram of the poultry samples before (PF1) and after PODEBA treatment (p0-1, c1-1, amekG-1, amek8-1). It is worth noting that after the complete PODEBA treatment no volatile compounds were found.

11. HS-GCMS analysis and FTIR analysis confirm that leathers and products, and waste waters have no bad-smelling related to PODEBA treatment.

12. CONCLUSIONS (I): ECOFATTING natural products can be good subsitutes of CPs (fattening) The interaction still depends on the chloride content. However, natural products are more effective (less amount required) and more biodegradable

13. CONCLUSIONS (II): natural products can replace SCPs (tanning and fattening) Conventional products SCMS SC-FAME (Palkernel oil) Gelatin/SCP Gelatin/SCMS Gelatin/ SCFAME CL/SCPCL/SCMS CL/SCFAME

14. CONCLUSIONS (III) Short-chain SCPs were located prevalently between the collagen fibrils long-chain SCPs had the tendency to wrap around more triple helical SCPs interact with the side chains of positively charged amino acids, namely Arg and Lys, and of those amino acids containing an amine group, namely Asn, Gln, suggesting the formation of covalent thionylamine bonds. Strong hydrogen bonding interactions were also engaged between the SCP oxygens and the hydroxyl groups of Hyp, Ser and Thr.

15. ECOFATTING PEOPLE @ ICCOM-PI Emilia Bramanti Alessandro D’Ulivo Massimo Onor Manuela Cempini Valentina Della Porta Susanna Monti