1. Dark Ages – Edwardian Era 500 A.D. - 1914
History of Costume
Dark Ages – Edwardian Era
500 A.D

2. The Dark Ages Saxon and Frankish Era 500-599 A.D.
A continuation of the tunic
Belted at the waist or hip
Men begin to wear trouser like garments
Leggings
Cloaks – fur lined & some wool
Fastened with brooches
Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from:

3. The Dark Ages The Anglo – Saxon Era 700 – 999
Similar to the Saxon & Frankish Era
Hoods were added to cloaks in the 9th century
The wrap over coat and waist coat appeared
Began to see class distinction through dress
Nobility had embellishments on the collar, waist or border of their tunics
Nobility wore longer tunics
Working class & Peasants wore plain shorter tunics
THINK MOVIE: King Arthur

4. The Dark Ages Anglo-Saxon Lady & Women Anglo-Saxon King & Queen
Anglo-Saxon Warrior & Man
Thomas, P.W. (2008) Early Clothing Costume History AD: Saxon, Frankish & Anglo-Saxon Clothing retrieved from:

5. The Dark Ages The Anglo – Saxon Era 1000-1099 Men Women
Continued to wear tunics but shorter
Piercings became popular
Coifs – flat, round caps
Long stockings with feet & short boots
Women
Long woolen gown – sometimes 2 layers
Inner gown tight sleeves; outer gown loose sleeves
Wore cloak or mantle over outer gown
Began to wear head covering unless very young

6. The Dark Ages 500-1100 Think Movies: Beowolf & Grendel
Tristan & Isolde
The 13th Warrior

7. Medieval/Middle Ages Early Period: 1100-1199
simple shaped fitted tunic for men
Long, wide gown with decorative embroidery for women
The Bliaut was a dress worn by woman or men in this time period.
Hose took the place of trousers
THINK MOVIE: Robin Hood

8. Medieval/Middle Ages After 1200 Men
Tight short clothes with long pointed shoes
The longer the point the higher the status

9. Medieval/Middle Ages After 1200 Women
Began to use tight lacing on women's
to create a form fitting shape
girdled at the hips
created a long - waisted appearance
Long, trailing gowns
Hennin, worn ,was a cone-like hat resembling the spires of the cathedral spire.

10. Late Medieval Ages
Fashion in this era was greatly influenced by the high class society and the European Kings and Queens.
The Surcoat was a popular fashion accessory for the men of this era.
Peasants had a lot of different clothing styles because each particular style identified the woman with her hometown.

11. Medieval/Middle Ages Think Movies: Becket BraveHeart A Knight’s Tale
The Hunchback of Notre Dame
Robin Hood

12. Renaissance: 1400-1500 Shapes becoming rounder Accentuate Physique
Drawers & Padding for men
Codpiece for men
a decorative triangular piece of fabric attached at the groin.
Men wore blouses with exposed chest
Pregnancy Pillows for Women
the maternal look was fashionable.
Looser, sexier clothing
THINK: Romeo & Juliet .

13. Renaissance:

14. Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era
Tighter, stiff, more rigid clothing
Heavy and Luxurious Fabrics
Slashing - cut in the outer surfaces of garments
doublets, sleeves and gowns
exposed the contrasting color of the linings beneath
Ruff worn by both men & women
large stiff collar worn at this time.

15. Renaissance: 1500 - 1600 Elizabethan Era Farthingale for Women Corset
stiff metal cone-shaped article worn under skirts
Corset
V-Waist
Accessories
Pearls, heeled shoes
Tights for men
THINK: Shakespeare in Love

17. Elizabethan Era

18. Renaissance Think Movies: Hamlet Elizabeth Ever After
Shakespeare in Love
Romeo & Juliet
The Agony & the Ecstasy

19. Cavalier 1620-1660 France Begins to influence Fashion
Fashion which said “I don’t have to work for a living.”
Sensual & Soft look, less stiffness
Waistlines began to rise
Ruffs were replaced by lace or linen collars
Sleeves began to become fuller
Men began wearing breeches instead of hose
Accessories
Turned down boots
Tall broad hats
Ribbons & bows

20. Doublets were pointed and fitted close to the body, with tight sleeves
Sleeveless leather jerkins were worn by soldiers
Think “Three Musketeers”

21. Restoration 1660 - 1715 Women’s Fashion
Full, loose sleeves that end at elbow
Tightly corseted
Mantua
Hung from the shoulders to the floor
worn for 'undress' wear
The overskirt was looped back
and held by ribbon bows.
Train length determined by social status
Hair worn in tight curls
Got bigger and higher as the period went on

22. Restoration 1660 - 1715 Men’s Fashion Breeches became very baggy
Coat and Waist coat
Ruffled long sleeved shirt
Cravats worn over the neck
Periwig
Wig worn by men throughout
the period

23. Restoration

24. Cavalier/Restoration
Think Movies:
Girl with the Pearl Earring
Pirates of the Carribean
The Man in the Iron Mask
The Three Muskateers
The Scarlet Letter

25. Historical Costume and the Movies Assignment
Directions:
Go to and open the document I sent you.
Find 12 pictures from 12 different movies that represents 12 different time periods.
Paste the picture in the box provided, then fill in the information in the corresponding box.
Save your document, then it to me when you are complete.
You will be getting more notes Friday and will have time to finish.
Movie Title: 300
Time Period: Greek B.C.
Evidence of Time Period: Greek Chiton dress with belts holding in place
Historically Accurate: No, Chiton would cover whole torso front and back. You can tell double sided tape was used to hold dress in place.
Website:

26. Georgian 1700-1775 Men’s Fashion
Flat Front Breeches—breeches with a buttoned front flap.
The Justaucorps for men was the forerunner of today’s suit coat.
The Spencer was a short jacket without tails.
Queue—A long pigtail or ponytail that men would wear on the back of the neck with their own hair or with their wig.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:

27. Georgian
Thomas, P.W. (2008) King George III Daily & Occupational Dress of Men. Retrieved from :

28. Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion
Panniers—baskets made of reed or whale bone held together with ribbon used to hold out the skirt
The hoop was first funnel-shaped, but from 1730s to 1740s grew very broad at the sides and flat front and back.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:

29. Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion
Watteau Gown— a loose sack or dress, worn over a tight bodice and very full underskirt.
The loose folds falling from the shoulders in back became part of the skirt.
The front of the gown varied in design, either hanging loose or fitted at the waist, worn closed or open, and, if open, revealing a bodice and underskirt.
The elbow-length sleeves had vertical pleats and soft, wide cuffs.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:

30. Georgian 1700-1775 Women’s Fashion
Pompadour—large hair-do associated with the French court and often had birds or toys placed in it.
Shepherdess Hat—A hat worn by fashionable women that resembled a shepardess hat. It was referring to the romantic life of the country.
Mob Cap—Large cap with soft, full crown and wide brim which almost hid the face; usually trimmed with ribbon bands and loops
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Georgian Costume History. Retrieved from:

31. Georgian Think Movies: A Tale of Two Cities Marie Antoinette
The Duchess
The Legend of Sleepy Hollow
The Patriot
The Last of the Mohicans

32. THINK MOVIE: Marie Antoinette

33. Empire
Men's Fashion
Breeches became longer and more tightly fitted
Trousers or Pantaloons for the street
Coats were cutaway with long tails and standing collars
Waist coats were high waisted and squared off at the bottom
Hair wax and mutton chops were the new hair fad
Wellington style boot

34. Empire 1790-1815 Women's Fashion The triumph of the “undressed” look
Followed the simple flowing lines of the Greek silhouette
Empire Waist
High waisted, natural look
No corsets
Accessories
Gloves
Vinaigrette: small drawstring handbag

35. Empire Think Movies: Becoming Jane Emma Pride & Prejudice
The Count of Monte Cristo
The Brother’s Grimm

36. THINK MOVIE: Emma

37. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion
Peg-Top Trousers–Trousers that were wide and pleated at the top and very narrow at the ankles.
The name peg-top originally applied to a boy’s cone-shaped spinning top.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from:

38. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion
Sack Coat–A loose-fitting coat ending at the finger tips and having high short lapels. It was used in sports and in commerce.
Great Coat–An overcoat usually made out of wool and not as fitted as a regular coat.
Frock Coat–A double-breasted coat having long skirts of equal length in front and back.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from:

39. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Men's Fashion Accessories
Ascot–A scarf tied in a knot with horizontal ends, then crossed diagonally. The whole usually held in place with a jeweled stickpin.
Bowler–A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler, similar to a derby, has a slightly wider brim and roll at the sides.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from:

40. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion
Beret Sleeves - cut from a circle with an opening in the center for the arm and this was gathered and bound into a band. The outer circle was gathered and set into the armhole
Gigot Sleeves–A full sleeve with more fullness at the elbow than at the shoulder or wrist.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Romantic Costume. Retrieved from:

41. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion Wider Skirt Hemlines:
Gored into panels from to added width at hemline, but keep tight waist
Decoration of stuffed rouleau tubes, Italian quilting and flounces and frills were added to push out the skirt hem width in an architectural way.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: Era

42. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion
Pelerine Collars (1836): covered wide shoulders and added modesty.
The width of the lace pelerine reached about 31 inches when at its widest fashion.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: Era

43. Romantic Era 1815-1840 Women's Fashion
Hats: Large romantic wide hats, ornately trimmed with feathers, loops of ribbons and bows
complemented the wide shoulder lines of the 1830s
Bonnets were virtually interchangeable with hats
Coal scuttle bonnet styles with deep crowns accommodated the high
Apollo knot: hair style of a high twist on top of the head.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Romantic Era – Fashion History. Retreived from: Era

44. Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860
Men’s Fashion
Prince Albert Coat Another name for the double-breasted frock coat with satin lapels, named after the consort of Queen Victoria who favored the style.
String Tie Basic ribbon, often black, tied in a bow with the ends hanging down.
Gaiters Covers that covered the shoe so they wouldn't get muddy.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from:

45. Victorian Era – Crinoline 1837 - 1860
Men’s Fashion
Dundrearies Long side burnes, Lamb Chops, worn my Lord Dundreary on Our American Cousin, by Tom Taylor.
Stove-Pipe Hat A tall, cylindrical hat with very little brim; worn by men.
Pince Niz A style of eye glasses that pinched the nose.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Crinoline Costume. Retrieved from:

46. Victorian Era – Crinoline
Women's Fashion
Return to the look of demure prim gentility
Big hats leave and bonnets return
The Gigot sleeve collapses in for a much narrower sleeve and dropped shoulder line.
Tight, pointed longer boned bodice to emphasize a small waistline
Pantalettes: Leg coverings of lace and ruffles that extended below the knees
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History Retrieved from:

47. Victorian Era – Crinoline
Women's Fashion
Dolman: A three-quarter-length outer wrap made of brocade, silk, or woolen fabric with sleeves cut in one with the body. .
Pagoda Sleeves A sleeve shaped like a funnel, tight above and gradually widening at the bottom, often finishing in several ruffles over a soft lawn under-sleeve.
Sleeves were off the shoulders for evening wear for upper class.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History Retrieved from:

48. Victorian Era – Crinoline
Women's Fashion
Bell shaped skirts become so large they are more dome shaped.
Held up by 6 layers of petticoats
Supported by stiffer fabrics with “Crin” woven in horsehair to make fabrics stiffer.
Crinoline: any garment that used this type of lining to make it stiff
Crinoline cage: metal steel frame cage that freed women of petticoats
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Early Victorian Costume and Fashion History Retrieved from:

49. Victorian 1865-1890 Four factors that begin to influence fashion
The invention of the sewing machine
Fashion becomes couture design led
Synthetic dyes allow for intense colors
Dome skirt started to have a flat front and a dramatic leaning back.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from:

50. Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion Blazer—A lightweight sport jacket.
Norfolk Jacket—A jacket with box pleats or straps of the same material passing over the belt and extending from shoulder to hem in front and back; usually worn for sport occasions.
Inverness—A full, sleeveless cape which fitted closely around the neck; from Inverness in Scotland.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from:

51. Victorian 1865-1890 Men's Fashion
Knickerbockers—Full, knee-length breeches gathered in at the knee
Four-in-hand Tie—A type of necktie originally used by coachmen that is tied in a slip knot.
Straw Boater—A man's hard straw hat coated with shellac from India that became popular for summer outings and sporting events in the 1870s
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from:

52. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion
Bustle—Whalebone or steel strips placed in the top back of the petticoat or in a separate panier puff in order to hold out the elaborate draping at the back of the over skirt.
Bloomers—Loose underdrawers usually gathered at the knee.
Basque—A short, skirt-like termination of an upper garment (originally on the male doublet)
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Bustle Costume. Retrieved from:

53. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion
The Soft Bustle Fashion Silhouette
Apron style tablier top layer half skirt
contrasting underskirts and gown linings were all revealed as the over top skirt was divided or turned back.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from:

54. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion
From 1870, ball gowns always had a train.
by 1873 the train was seen in day dress.
By 1875 soft polonaise bustle styles were becoming so extreme that the soft fullness began to drop down the back of the garment and form itself into a tiered, draped and frilled train

55. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion Victorian Silhouette 1878-1901
Princess Line and the Cuirasse Bodice
soft polonaise style bustle styles were replaced by Princess sheath garments without a waist seam with bodice and skirt cut in one.
Cuirasse bodice: corset like and dipped even deeper both front and back extending well down the hips creating the look of a body encased in armour.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from:

56. Victorian - Bustle Women’s Fashion The New Hard Bustle of 1883
jutting out shelf like style of bustle
larger than ever as a hard shape that gave women a silhouette like the hind legs of a horse
Minimal drapery in comparison to earlier bustles
Slimmer more fitted severely tailored princess bodice, with a much flatter front.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). Mid-Late Victorian Era Fashion. Retrieved from:

57. Victorian (both eras) Think Movies: Far and Away
The Phantom of the Opera
Gangs of New York
Gone With the Wind
Glory
Cold Mountain
The Mask of Zorro
Sherlock Holmes

58. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Men’s Fashion
Chesterfield—A fitted dress overcoat with hidden buttons and a velvet collar
Kickers—Full breeches gathered or pleated into knee bands and buckled at the knee
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from:

59. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Men’s Hats
Panama Hat—A hand-woven hat of fine straw from Ecuador and Colombia, South America.
For-and-Aft Cap—A cap having a visor front and back, often worn with an Inverness cape.
Derby—A stiff felt hat with a low, round crown and narrow brim; the bowler has a slightly wider brim and a roll at the sides.
Homberg—A carefully blocked, stiff felt hat with a medium tapering crown creased in the middle and a brim that was rolled up on the sides and finished in grosgrain ribbon
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from:

60. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1890-1910
Tailor Made—Mass-produced, ready-to-wear clothing that had a tailored fit often wool or serge because of the tailoring quality.
Leg-o’-Mutton—A sleeve that was extremely wide at the top and tapered at the wrist.
Shirtwaist—A woman’s top detached from the skirt. At first the focal point was the shoulders then it moved to the front.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from:

61. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1890-1910
Gibson Girl—More often associated with the topknot hair style. Also a blouse with a single pleat which extended over each shoulder front and back, hiding the armseye of the shirtwaist.
Image of 'The New Woman' who was competitive, sporty and emancipated as well as beautiful.
Robinson,, S.R. (2010). Fin de Siecle Costume - The Gay 90's. retrieved from:

62. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Fashion 1900 -1907
The S-Bend corset and pouter pigeon effect
The high collar, S bend corset, trained skirt and lavish hat all had an effect on the posture of an Edwardian lady and it gave her a certain swaying grandeur.
Evening wear
exceptionally low sweetheart, square and round décolleté necklines allowed women to wear quantities of fine jewelry. No cleavage was visible as the bust was suppressed into a monobosom.
Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from:

63. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Women’s Accessories
Gainsborough Hat— velvet, beaver, or straw hat having a low crown and a broad brim, trimmed with feathers.
Feathers
Gloves
Parasols
Bags
Thomas, P.W. (2008). La Belle Époque Edwardian Fashion History. Retrieved from:

64. Edwardian Era 1890 -1914 Think Movies: Anne of Green Gables Titanic
Finding Neverland
My Fair Lady
Legends of the Fall