2Choose your suppliesCabochon (smooth round stone or glass piece with a flat back)Bezel wire (goes around the outside of the cabochon)Bezel Base (goes underneath the cabochon)Patterned ring band (forms the ring)
3Match stone size to band size Too big Too small Just RightStone should be wider than band but no more than twice as wide
4Trim bezel wire heightIf needed, trim you bezel wire height so that it is about 2/3 the height of your cabochon.Only thinner stones will need this.See me if you’d like help—this takes a lot of practice.Trim with scissorsTrim thickness of wire so it will pass the curve of your stone but will not cover the stoneSide view of bezel wire & cabochon
5Make a bezel for your cabochon Wrap bezel wire around your cabochon.Mark size with a Sharpie and cut with scissors.Solder the bezel wire together with HARD solder just like you would a ring, except flatten your solder first.Remember this is a tiny piece—be careful!
6Flatten your Bezel and Base File the BOTTOM of your bezel on 600 grit sandpaper. If you trimmed the height of the wire, sand on the cut side.Flatten your base with a rawhide mallet on the anvilWhen you stack the two pieces together, they need to fully touch everywhere.
7Set up your base to solder Prop your base up on two carbon blocks.Be sure you can access underneath with a torch.Add flux to the top of the base.
8Add bezel and solder pieces Put bezel on base.Put 2-3 pieces of MEDIUM solder inside base, touching bezel.
9Solder Bezel to Base Heat from underneath. You will see the solder run and connect the two pieces.Do not overheat!
10Trim and file baseTrim extra base with scissors. Save your scraps for casting.File and sand seam at an angle until cup looks like one continuous piece.Be careful you don’t cut or sand through the side of your cup.
11Cut your ring band to length Find your finger size.Wrap the band around the mandrel a few sizes smaller.Slide ring band up to your desired size.Mark with Sharpie.Slide off mandrel.Cut ring band at mark.
12Solder ring bandFile ends very flat. The thicker your ring band, the more filing you’ll need to do.Solder the ring together with MEDIUM solder.Round the ring.
13File the top of the ring band The top of the ring will be the seam—the bezel cup will cover the seam.Use a needle file to make a flat spot on the seam. File until your bezel cup sits flat.File top flat and wide enough for bezel cup.File top flat and wide enough for bezel cup.
14Set up to solder Put ring in third hand, with filed seam area on top. Lay the cup upside down near your soldering area.Put flux on back of the cup and on top of the ring.Put a flattened piece of EXTRA-EASY solder on the top of the ring seam.
15Solder your cup to your ring Heat around the ring until the solder flows.Put the cup on the ring.Heat underneath the ring until the solder flows and holds the cup on the ring.You should bring a buddy over for this—one for the torch and one for the cup.
16Set stoneInsert stone and secure it just like you did for the bezel pendant.
17Finish ringBuff, using red rouge only. Tripoli will take off your pattern.Hold your guarded thumb over the stone so you don’t ruin it.You can get around the stone area using a popsicle stick wrapped with a Sunshine cloth.