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CFFC pg. 509 1. What are the ways to reduce bulk in seams? 2. Describe trimming, grading, clipping & notching.
5.03 Reducing Bulk Regular seam allowance is sometimes too bulky, especially in enclosed areas such as necklines, collars, & cuffs. Curved seams and corners also will be bulky.
Trimming Cutting off part of the seam allowance. Leave 1/8 to ¼” seam allowance. Used in curves areas, such as underarm or center back seam of pants.
Grading Trim each seam allowance to a different width. Seam allowance closest to the outside of garment should be the widest. Trim both seam allowances in half & then trim one in half again.
Clipping Done on inward curves to allow seam allowance to spread Making straight cuts into the seam allowance. Clip after seam is trimmed or graded. Clip every ¼” to ½”
Notching Use for outward curves to remove excess seam allowance, ie. Curved collars. Cut V-shaped sections from the seam allowance.
Trimming corners Trim before turning. Trim a right-angle corner by cutting diagonally across the seam allowance.
For corners with sharp point, cut diagonally across the seam allowance Cut away the side of the corner to remove extra fabric.
Pay attention to the seam lines
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