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Wear of Dynamic Ropes Giuliano Bressan CMT – Commissione Materiali e Tecniche CAI – Club Alpino Italiano.

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Presentation on theme: "Wear of Dynamic Ropes Giuliano Bressan CMT – Commissione Materiali e Tecniche CAI – Club Alpino Italiano."— Presentation transcript:

1 Wear of Dynamic Ropes Giuliano Bressan CMT – Commissione Materiali e Tecniche CAI – Club Alpino Italiano

2 Tests on Rope Wear Commissione Materiali e Tecniche del Club Alpino Italiano

3 TABLE 1 - Tests on single ropes: Rappels and RopeWear TABLE 1 - Tests on single ropes: Rappels and RopeWear RopeDateDeclared Values Reference Values Use of rope in rappels DODERO TestsNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN Meters N. of rappels N. of falls Force daN EDELWEISS Eldorado (10,5 mm) 01.97797515865 14898 10113876“Figure of Eight” 10114896climber: 80 kg 70711870 70714880 490499888 4904910874 01.97797515868 14828 10114884“Robot” 10115880 climber: 80 kg 70714878 70717890 4904913870 4904915862

4 Plot 1 - Tests on single ropes: Rappels and RopeWear F. of eight Robot

5 Plot 2 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear Plot 2 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear Only rappels Only climb Both rappels and climb

6 TABLE 2 - Tests on single ropes: Artificial Wear EDELWEISS Eldorado (10,5 mm) RopeDateDeclared valuesReference valuesArtificial wearNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN Cycle s N. of falls Force daN 11.96797511882 10894 509862load 38-40 kg 7874 9870 3.977975 11882 10894 2004882 max temp. 61° 5862 6852 3.97797511882 10894 507834 max temp. 47° 8850 9846 3.97797511882 10894 1007874 max temp. 50° 6856 5.977975 11882 10894 3006866load 35-40 kg 5854 max temp. 50-60° 6866 1 cycle = 50 m

7 OSELLA Jumbo Alp Joseph (11 mm) RopePeriod of use Declared valuesReference valuesUseNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN metersN. of falls Force daN 1.12.95 - 30.6.96 5.97 - 8.97 //3944 //2952 //1944 //4930 //2978 CASSIN (Beal) 1.6.95 - 3.2.96 NOTE: computations on June 1998 2926029201 year use 1924 1930 Rif. A) VB //10848 //10830 //11826 203052804 2796 2804 2760 Rif. B) AA TABLE 3 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear TABLE 3 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear

8 EDELWEISS Calanques (10,5 mm) RopePeriod of use Declared valuesReference valuesUseNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN MetriN. of falls Force daN 1.6.96 - 13.10.96 897517888 11888 14884 NOTE: computations on June 1998 61576932color purple- 4932red-black 5914Rif. C) OP 11.6.96 - 17.10.96 897517888 11888 14884 29006932color purple- 4910red-black 4908 4900Rif. D) SM 7.2.96 - 9.2.97 897517888 11888 14884 304342900color purple- 1914red-black 2888Rif. E) AA TABLE 4 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear TABLE 4 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear

9 BEAL Leader (11 m.) RopePeriod of use Decalred valuesReference valuesUseNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN metersN. of falls Force daN 5.88 - 6.9711880// NOTE: computations on Sept. 1999 300002864use: 10 years 3844col. blue- 3848white-black Rif. F) GB-SB 1.3.97 - 5.4.9889758952 10962 250002958col. purple-red 1936-black 1956 Rif. G) AA 6.6.98 - 13.9.98 89759988 9938 9982 200002962col.red-yellow 2972-black 21012 Rif. I) AA EDELWEISS Calanques (10,5 mm) EDELWEISS Calanques (10,5 mm) Tests with modified Dodero (may 1999) 25.4.98 - 3.5.9889758952 10962 100006956col. purple-red 5958-black 5956 Rif. H) AA 3.10.98 - 5.6.99 89759988 9938 9982 3000021160col.red-yellow 11001-black 1993 Rif. J) AA TABLE 5 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear TABLE 5 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear

10 MAMMUT XSR-18 (11,7 mm) 1995181150// NOTE: computations on June 1998 50041118Made in 1981 31134 31124Rif. A1) CZ 19966-7900//252003980 21062 Rif. A2) CZ 5.94 - 6.967-9940//?1894 1902 1922 1870 Rif. A3) LB MAMMUT Galaxy (10 mm) MAMMUT Pro (10,5 mm) TABLE 6 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear TABLE 6 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear RopePeriod of use Decalred valuesReference valuesUseNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN metersN. of falls Force daN

11 Results of Pit Schubert Plot 3: Comparison with Schubert’s results Plot 3: Comparison with Schubert’s results Only rappels Only climb Both rappels and climb Artificial wear


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