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Wear of Dynamic Ropes Giuliano Bressan CMT – Commissione Materiali e Tecniche CAI – Club Alpino Italiano.

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Presentation on theme: "Wear of Dynamic Ropes Giuliano Bressan CMT – Commissione Materiali e Tecniche CAI – Club Alpino Italiano."— Presentation transcript:

1 Wear of Dynamic Ropes Giuliano Bressan CMT – Commissione Materiali e Tecniche CAI – Club Alpino Italiano

2 Tests on Rope Wear Commissione Materiali e Tecniche del Club Alpino Italiano

3 TABLE 1 - Tests on single ropes: Rappels and RopeWear TABLE 1 - Tests on single ropes: Rappels and RopeWear RopeDateDeclared Values Reference Values Use of rope in rappels DODERO TestsNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN Meters N. of rappels N. of falls Force daN EDELWEISS Eldorado (10,5 mm) “Figure of Eight” climber: 80 kg “Robot” climber: 80 kg

4 Plot 1 - Tests on single ropes: Rappels and RopeWear F. of eight Robot

5 Plot 2 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear Plot 2 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear Only rappels Only climb Both rappels and climb

6 TABLE 2 - Tests on single ropes: Artificial Wear EDELWEISS Eldorado (10,5 mm) RopeDateDeclared valuesReference valuesArtificial wearNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN Cycle s N. of falls Force daN load kg max temp. 61° max temp. 47° max temp. 50° load kg 5854 max temp ° cycle = 50 m

7 OSELLA Jumbo Alp Joseph (11 mm) RopePeriod of use Declared valuesReference valuesUseNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN metersN. of falls Force daN //3944 //2952 //1944 //4930 //2978 CASSIN (Beal) NOTE: computations on June year use Rif. A) VB //10848 //10830 // Rif. B) AA TABLE 3 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear TABLE 3 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear

8 EDELWEISS Calanques (10,5 mm) RopePeriod of use Declared valuesReference valuesUseNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN MetriN. of falls Force daN NOTE: computations on June color purple- 4932red-black 5914Rif. C) OP color purple- 4910red-black Rif. D) SM color purple- 1914red-black 2888Rif. E) AA TABLE 4 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear TABLE 4 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear

9 BEAL Leader (11 m.) RopePeriod of use Decalred valuesReference valuesUseNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN metersN. of falls Force daN // NOTE: computations on Sept use: 10 years 3844col. blue- 3848white-black Rif. F) GB-SB col. purple-red 1936-black 1956 Rif. G) AA col.red-yellow 2972-black Rif. I) AA EDELWEISS Calanques (10,5 mm) EDELWEISS Calanques (10,5 mm) Tests with modified Dodero (may 1999) col. purple-red 5958-black 5956 Rif. H) AA col.red-yellow black 1993 Rif. J) AA TABLE 5 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear TABLE 5 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear

10 MAMMUT XSR-18 (11,7 mm) // NOTE: computations on June Made in Rif. A1) CZ // Rif. A2) CZ //? Rif. A3) LB MAMMUT Galaxy (10 mm) MAMMUT Pro (10,5 mm) TABLE 6 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear TABLE 6 - Tests on single ropes: Climbing Wear RopePeriod of use Decalred valuesReference valuesUseNote N. of falls Force daN N. of falls Force daN metersN. of falls Force daN

11 Results of Pit Schubert Plot 3: Comparison with Schubert’s results Plot 3: Comparison with Schubert’s results Only rappels Only climb Both rappels and climb Artificial wear


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