1. Seamanship
Chapter 8
Marlinspike

2. Learning Objectives
Learn the art and science of working with rope and line
Understand knots, bends, hitches and splices
also the selection and use of line and
the proper care of line
Marlinspike seamanship encompasses the art and science of working with rope and line.
With the completion of this material the recreational boater should understand knots, bends, hitches, and splices.
The selection and use of line and its proper care are also included in this chapter.

3. Definitions Marlinespike Marlinespike Seamanship
A pointed tool used in splicing to open the strands of rope or cable
Marlinespike Seamanship
General knowledge of knots, bends, hitches, splices, and care of rope

4. Definitions
Rope
Cordage made of natural or synthetic fibers, also can be made of steel wire
Line
Name given rope aboard a boat
Each line is given a specific name, such as:
anchor line,
halyard, main sheet, spring line or dock line
A few are still called rope, as in bell rope

5. Rope Strengths Safe load is 20% of breaking strength
Dacron® is the trade name for polyester fiber
The safe load or working strength of a line is 20% of its breaking strength
Dacron is the registered trade name for polyester fiber.
See Table for Breaking Strength of Rope

6. Effect of Knots Lines are weakened by: Knots – typically to 50-60%
Splices – least reduction to 90%
Any bend or kink in a line will weaken it.
Different knots, bends and hitches have varying effects
See Table

7. Definitions Working Part Standing Part
Section of line used in forming a knot
Standing Part
The part of a line that is:
made fast
not used in forming a knot
around which the knot may be tied
In use, normally under strain

8. Definitions Bitter End Working End
Inboard end of a line, chain or cable
The end made fast to the boat
Working End
Attached to an anchor or cleat, etc.

9. Parts of a Line
Bitter end
Working part 

10. More Definitions Bight Standing part Free end Turn Round turn Turn
Bight – formed when a rope is doubled back on itself and never around an object
Standing Part – previously defined (see slide for example)
Free End or bitter end
Turn – a 180 degree to 270 degree wrap of a line around an object
Round Turn – a 540 degree turn around an object
Knot – General sense – includes three classes of knots – knots, bends and hitches with each having specific characteristics
Knots – specific sense – either creates a loop or a lump (stopper) in the end of a line. Bowline, figure 8
Bend – used to attach two lines together. Sheet bend, square knot
Hitch – used to attach a line to an object. Cleat hitch, clove hitch
Free End

11. Bight
Line turned back against itself 

12. Overhand Loop Working Part Bitter End Bitter end looped over
the working part 

13. Underhand Loop Working Part Bitter End Bitter end looped under
the working part 

14. Turn
Line looped around
object, but not
full turn 

15. Round Turn
Line looped around
object one and a half
full turns 

16. Choosing A Line Braided Common laid rope Diamond braid over a core
Easy on hands
High strength
Slippery
Common laid rope
3 strands twisted
Tends to kink
Stretches more
Hard on hands
Inexpensive
Laid Line or rope –
3 strands twisted made from fibers, yarns and strands
Tends to kink
Stretches more then most other types
Hard on the hands
Inexpensive
Line ends should be whipped to keep from unraveling
Single Braid Line
Diamond braid over a core
Easy on the hands
High strength
Less stretch then laid line
Can be slippery
Double Braid Line
Same appearance a single braid but inside the cover is another smaller braided line.
Can be stronger and have less stretch then single braid
Braided core may be made of less durable but enormously strong high tech fiber
Parallel Core Line
A wear resistant braid cover over a core of extremely high strength but somewhat fragile fibers like Kevlar or Spectra
Core runs lengthwise inside the cover without being twisted or braided and usually takes the entire load

17. Material Polypropylene Nylon Polyester (Dacron®)
Strongest and most elastic
Elasticity absorbs shock
Good for anchoring and mooring
Polyester (Dacron®)
Minimum of stretch
Good for running rigging aboard sailboats
Polypropylene
Not as strong as nylon or Dacron
Subject to abrasion, chafe & deterioration from sunlight
Good point - it floats
Nylon
Strong and the most elastic to help absorb shock
Resists rot
Good resistance to environmental elements
Polyester Line
Strong with medium stretch
Good for running rigging on cruising sailboats and dock lines
Polypropylene and polyethylene Line
Not as strong as nylon or polyester
Subject to abrasion, chafe & deterioration from the sun
It floats

18. 3-Strand Laid Line 

19. Laid Line Details 

20. Double Braid 

21. Parallel Core 

22. Caring for Lines Overloading Avoid kinks & sharp bends Avoid chemicals
Protect against chafing
Regular cleaning
Overloading
Use at 20% of breaking strength
Loading at 75% of breaking Strength may cause damage
Avoid kinks & sharp bends
Avoid chemicals
Protect against chafing
Regular cleaning

23. Caring for Lines Stow carefully Coiling Flemishing Stow carefully
Loose line is dangerous on a boat
All line not in use should be coiled
Coiling
Coil into the left hand
Wrap the coil and run the free end through the upper loop
Use the free end to hang the line
Flemishing
See a flemished line on board or on a dock; see an educated and “professional” boater
No loose end to become a hazard

24. Common Whipping Whipping Methods
Used to keep the end of a line from unraveling
Methods
With ‘small stuff’ or twine
Taping
Liquid whip
Melting nylon line ends
Whipping
A general term covering the treatment of the ends of a line to keep them from unraveling or fraying
Methods
With ‘small stuff’ or twine – use either waxed 40# test 3 strand Dacron twine or 50-80# test Dacron braid fishing line
Taping (don’t expect long lasting results)
Liquid whip
Melting nylon line ends – you want a melt plug at least 1/16 inch thick to form in the end of the line
Plastic shrink sleeves

25. Chafing Gear Protects line from chafing on chocks and hawse pipes
Commercially available
Home made using old Water hose
Overloading
Use at least 20% of breaking strength
Loading at 75% of breaking strength may cause damage
Damage might be indicated by a noticeable reduction in the size of the line or a noticeable permanent increase in the length of the line
Avoid kinks & sharp bends
Avoid chemicals – most modern marine line is resistant to most common chemicals but why take the chance
Environmental – sunlight and ozone are both weathering agents and can affect lines
Protect against chafing
Regular cleaning – can be laid out and hose down with clean fresh water
All lines must be protected from chafing
Try to rout the line to avoid rubbing contact with hard objects
Protects line form chafing on chocks and hawse Pipes
Commercially available through marine stores or can be home made using old water hose

26. Classes of Knots Hitches Bends Knots secure a line to an object
attach two lines together
Knots
install a loop or a stopper in a line 

27. Coiling a Line Start by lacing line over your hand
Form generous loops until line is coiled
Make two turns around coil
Feed working end through coil 1 2 3 4
If one end is attached, coil the line from the fixed end to the loose end
Start by lacing line over your hand
Twist line with your fingers so the coils lay flat against each other
Form generous loops until line is coiled
Make two turns around coil
Feed working end through coil

28. Basic Knots or Bends A good knot is easy to tie and easy to untie
Knots or bends weaken line by as much as 50%
A good knot:
Performs the intended job
is easy to tie and replicate
easy to untie
doesn’t capsize or untie itself unexpectedly
Knots or bends weaken line by as much as 50%
The five basic knots to be learned are the Figure 8 Knot, the Bowline, the Sheet Bend, the Clove Hitch, and the Cleat Hitch.
Two phases to successfully tie a knot:
Crossing the lines in the correct order
Tightening or closing the knot properly 

29. Figure 8 

30. Figure Eight Start by forming an underhand loop
Lead the free end under the standing part
Feed the free end through the loop formed by the underhand loop
Pull the knot tight
Used to put a “lump” in the bitter end of a line or sheet so it can’t pass through a block or grommet
Start by forming an underhand loop or bight
Lead the free end under the standing part
Feed the free end through the loop formed by the underhand loop
Pull the know tight
Optional method – twist bight 1 full turn and slip the bitter end through the bight loop and pull until tight

31. Figure-8 Construction 

32. Bowline 

33. Bowline Form overhand loop Feed free end: through loop
around standing part
into loop
The most respected knot for creating a loop in the end of a line.
Form an overhand loop leaving the bitter end 3 times as long as the length of the loop you are creating with the Bowline.
Feed the free end through the loop
Feed the free end around the standing part
Feed the free end into the loop
To finish the knot- hold the bitter end and the part of the large loop next to it in one hand and place the other hand on the working part and pull.
Can be easily loosened and untied by pulling back on the loop around the working part

34. Bowline Construction 

35. Sheet Bend 

36. Sheet Bend Use to join two lines of different diameter
Form a bight in one line
Lead free end of second line through bight and around Standing part of first line
Tuck free end of second line under standing part of line two
Snug up the bend

37. Sheet Bend Construction

38. Clove Hitch 

39. Clove Hitch Form an underhand loop around post
Lead free end above the turn
Now form another underhand loop around post
Use a half hitch as a “locking knot” to keep the clove hitch from slipping
Used to attach a line to a round pile or post
Good Properties:
A tenacious slip knot that will tightly constrict a wood pile.
It will not slip down the pile
It is easy to tie and untie under strain
Negative – if the load moves back and forth the hitch will rotate on the post allowing the working part to pull out the hitch and for the bitter end to be drawn into the hitch. This can be solved by adding 2 half hitches with the bitter end around the working part
Form an underhand loop around the post
Lead the free end above the turn
Now form another underhand loop around the post and pull it tight

40. Clove Hitch Construction

41. Cleat Hitch 

42. Cleat Hitch Take 3/4 turn under horn away from the load
Lead free end over and under opposite horn
Lead free end over and under other horn
Tuck free end under last turn
Secure and reliable and can be untied under load
Used to secure a line to a cleat
Take at least a ¾ turn under the horn away from the load – can use up to 1 ½ turns on a standard cleat or more if the base is smooth, polished and rounded
Lead the free end over and under the opposite horn
Lead the free end over and under the other horn
Tuck the free end under the last turn
The first and third diagonals should be parallel and under the second diagonal
Use a Flemish Coil to stow the free end

43. Cleat Hitch Construction

44. Round Turn & Two Half Hitches
Make a round turn around post or ring
Lead free end around standing part forming an underhand loop
Repeat the last step
Can be used to secure a line to a round post or ring
Make a round turn around the post or a ring
Lead the free end around the standing part forming an underhand loop
Repeat the last step

45. Anchor Bend Take round turn around anchor ring or post
Make turn around the standing part
Feed free end through center of round turn
Make round turn around standing part and snug up the bend
Not a required knot
A variation of the Round Turn with Two Half Hitches but is more secure when fastened to the ring on an anchor shank.
Take a round turn around the anchor ring or a post
Make a turn around the standing part
Feed the free end through the center of the round turn
Make a round turn around the standing part and snug up the bend
You might want to seize the bitter end to the working part as a further security precaution

46. Reef or Square Knot Good Uses Should not be used for a varying load
Furling sails
Reefing sails
Lashing small stuff
Should not be used for a varying load
Not a required knot for class
Good Uses
Furling sails
Reefing sails
Lashing small stuff
Should not be used for a varying load
Lines should the ends of the same line or be identical in size and type
It is critical that the two bitter ends are in line and on opposite sides of the bend.

47. Heaving a Line Tosser Receiver Splits line coil in half
Tosses one coil underhand to the receiver
Receiver
Holds arm out as target
Lets line fall over out-stretched arm
This is the art of passing a line between boats or between a boat and a pier or the shore.
Use line 3/8 to ¾ inch for best weight
Practical throwing distance is 2/3 the length of the line up to about 30 feet.
Tosser
Secure bitter end to a fixed object
Splits line coil in half
Aim for extended arm and not the body of the receiver
Tosses line underhand, like you are bowling, to the receivers side
Receiver
Holds an arm out as a target
Lets line fall over an out-stretched arm

48. The correct way to wrap a line around a winch.
Start by wrapping line clockwise
Pile wraps up from bottom to top
Make more turns for a heaver load
The correct way to wrap a line around a winch.
This will not jam.
Winch - Geared drum turned by a handle and used to pull lines such as sheets and halyards
Winches are mechanical devices designed to multiply your pulling force found normally on larger sailboats and used for halyards and sheets
Start by wrapping the line clockwise – need about 3 turns of line on the drum
Pile the wraps up from the bottom to the top
Make more turns for a heavier load
To pay out line from a winch, reduce the tailing tension until the line slips backwards around the drum
Some winches have a self-tailing feature

49. Winch This is the incorrect way to lead a line to a winch.
This will jam.
This is the incorrect way to lead a line to a winch.
This will jam.

50. Blocks and Tackle Block Sheave A nautical name for a pulley
Roller in a block over which line passes as it goes through block
Blocks and tackle are a time honored way of multiplying your force
Block
A nautical name for a pulley one or more rope wheels called sheaves
Sheave
Roller in a block over which a line passes as it goes through the block
Tackle
Arrangement of line running through the block or blocks used to provide increased mechanical advantage

51. Blocks and Tackle Tackle Winch
Arrangement of line and blocks used to provide increased mechanical advantage
Winch
Geared drum turned by a handle and used to pull lines such as sheets and halyards
Blocks and tackle are a time honored way of multiplying your force
Block
A nautical name for a pulley one or more rope wheels called sheaves
Sheave
Roller in a block over which a line passes as it goes through the block
Tackle
Arrangement of line running through the block or blocks used to provide increased mechanical advantage

52. Blocks and Tackles A B C D E 1:1 2:1 3:1 4:1 5:1
Determining the mechanical advantage of a block and tackle system can be relatively simple if you remember one basic rule – count the number of lines directly supporting or directly pulling the load.
No free lunch
With a 5:1 advantage, the distance moved by pulling the line will be 5 times the distance moved by the load – you don’t have to pull as hard but you have to pull a lot farther
Friction in the line will reduce the actual mechanical advantage that you are seeking
See examples of mechanical advantages achieved
1:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs
2:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs
3:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs
4:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs
5:1 – 10 lb pull lifts 10 lbs
1:1
2:1
3:1
4:1
5:1

53. Seamanship
End
Marlinespike