Create a pattern for a garment or an apparel product. Consider the design details. Select the materials (fabrication and trims) Construct the sample (prototype) Fit, revise and finalize the sample Create an apparel technical design pack Prepare pattern for mass production
Designers begin by creating a2D or 3D pattern, utilizing one or more of the pattern making methods: Flat Drafting Reversed Engineered Draping Computer Generated
Flat Pattern- A pattern is created by using an existing foundation pattern known as a sloper or a block. Sloper (Home Sewing Industry term) or Block (Apparel Manufacturing Industry term) - custom fitted basic pattern based on individual or companies standard size measurements from which other patterns can be made.
Drafting a Pattern- Patterns are created by using measurements of an existing garment, an individual, or body form. Pattern is then drawn on paper utilizing the body measurements. Drafting a Pattern: You Tube Video Drafting a Pattern Reverse Engineering a Pattern- Patterns are created by deconstructing an existing garment. It is taken apart, analyzed, and new pattern pieces are created.
Draping- A garment is created by molding, cutting, and pinning fabric on an individual or a dress form. It is the oldest method of pattern making. Computer Generated Patterns- Computer-aided design (CAD) software is used to produce patterns for textiles, apparel and other products. Image Source: www.lucianagrimaldi.com
Kimono Sleeve Types: With Gusset, Dolman, Batwing Raglan Sleeve Types: Raglan to center front, Raglan-Princess, and Saddle Sleeve Design Skirt Styles: Straight, A- line, Flared, Circular, Full, Pleated, Gathered, Dirndl, Gored, Umbrella, and Wrap Pant Styles: Tapered, Straight, Flared, Jean, Palazzo, Harem, Bermuda Shorts, and Short Shorts, Other Pant Styles Include: Gauchos, knickers, and Culottes Jacket Styles: Trench, Blazer, Fitted, Tuxedo, Cardigan, Parka, Poncho, Cape, Safari, Pea, Windbreaker, Norfolk, Chanel, Bolero, and Box Pockets- Patch, Inseam, Welt, Flap
Once a design is created and the pattern is engineered, the materials (fabrication and trims) are sourced. (Consider wholesale vs. retail when sourcing materials.) Other variables may include: labor, logistics, tariffs, shipping costs etc. Preliminary costing is completed to insure profitability. Costing Considerations- fabrics, trims, design details, and labor costs.
Sample garments (prototypes) are created by sample makers. Sample makers must be skilled in a variety of sewing construction techniques. They work closely to insure fit and design integrity. Fashion fabric is used to create a sample garment.
Use a mannequin or a live model to check the fit and styling of the sample garment. Revise garment fit until it is correct. Photo Source: gardnerstreetvintage.tumblr.com
The Apparel Design Technical (Tech) Packs are created after the sample garment has been finalized. Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video Create Your Own Tech Pack- You Tube Video The tech packs are specific information about the design and should include the following: 1. Detailed flat sketch with front and back views. Should include topstitching, pocket and button placement, placement of contrast fabrications, hem and band widths, label placement etc.
2. Directions for any special fabric direction or matching. For example borders, napped fabric etc. 3. Any special seam allowances, decorative or standard topstitching, stitch length, thread type and color. 4. Include samples of fabrics and trims. Clearly indicate what is Self, Contrast, Trim, and Lining fabrics. 5. Measurement details. 6. Care Instructions for labeling 7. Color details and season information
Season- Style #- Date- Designer- Body Measurements Technical Sketch- include design and construction details Hardware and Trim Fabrication and Color Swatch of Fabrics Care Label Information Comments
Once a sample pattern has been approved for size, costing, availability of materials, and potential profit; it is used for production samples and samples for sales promotion. The approved pattern is graded into smaller and larger sizes usually by computer but can be done by hand. Final fabric selections and trims are ordered by suppliers.