Safety Backups and Safety Checks Tie a double overhand or figure-8 knot in the end of your rope to prevent rappelling off the end. Apply weight to anchors and rappelling equipment slowly. Bounding Rappels are prohibited. Only walk down rappels are to be used. 3
Rope Management Throwing The Rope 1.Tie a knot in the opposite end to prevent rappelling off the end of the rope. 4
Edge Transition Have your anchor checked by the safety. Have yourself safety checked. Weight your anchor before you reach the safety line. Begin with your feet shoulder width apart. Look for footholds before you transition the edge. Check for edge pro that may be needed. 5
At the Top On BelayBelay On “On Belay” (”Belay On“) if independent belay is used** On RappelRappel On “On Rappel” (“Rappel On”) **For self-belay, response will be from safety officer At the Ground Off RappelRappel Off “Off Rappel” (“Rappel Off”) Off BelayBelay Off “Off Belay” (“Belay Off”) Commands 6
Safety The Safety Line is independent of the Main Line. The safety line will not be used for rigging. Trainees will have a third line with an active belayer. Ascenders will be connected to the climber with cowstails. 25 Maintain two (2) points of contact. Each ascender counts as ½ point of contact. An additional prusik will be applied to maintain two points before ascenders are removed.
Cow’s Tail Right Stirrup Right Ascender Safety Line with Microcender or prusik as Self-belay Triangular or Half-moon Screw-link Equipment 26
Cow’s Tail Left Stirrup Left Ascender Safety Line Equipment 27
Cows Tail 28 Right Ascender Belay Loop Left Ascender
Approach the Rope at the Ground 1.Adjust each ascender so that you can walk up as smoothly On BelayClimbing 2.Attach the self-belay, “On Belay” followed by “Climbing” 3.Start climbing with short steps and steady pace At Edge 1.Slide self-belay over the edge as far up as possible, by standing on the top and bottom stirrups 2.Move up edge toward anchor as far as possible. 3.Move to the safe location away from the edge. 4.Remove equipment. 5.There may be a minor change in sequence due to the rock face. At top 1.Remove the top and bottom ascender from the main line. Off Rope 2.“Off Rope” 3.Remove the self belay Off belay 4.“Off belay” Equipment 29
At the Ground On BelayBelay On “On Belay” (”Belay On"), if independent belay is used ClimbingClimb On “Climbing” (“Climb On”) At the Top Off RopeRope Off “Off Rope” (“Rope Off”) Off BelayBelay Off “Off Belay” (“Belay Off”) Commands 30
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