Presentation on theme: "What You’ll Need to Know"— Presentation transcript:
1What You’ll Need to Know Saltwater AquariumsWhat You’ll Need to Know
2The essential items for your tank EquipmentThe essential items for your tank
3Tank Glass Acrylic Cheaper per gallon Hard to Scratch Scratches are permanentHigher index of RefractionHeavierEasier to breakTank stand support edgesAcrylicMore expensiveScratches easilyScratches can be buffedLower IOR (less distortion when viewed at angle)Weighs LessSpecial stand neededHarder to break
4II. Heaters Tropical fish need a heater. 78º F is ideal. Two types - submersible- partially submersible (controls on top)Rule #1: Don’t leave it on out of the water- Reason: It will crack!2.5 W per gallonHeaters tend to stick. CHECK THEM REGULARLY!
5III. Thermometers Monitors the temperature of the tank Can be: - floating bulb- suction bulb- flat liquid crystalKey is to choose the one at the store that has the average temperature
6IV. FiltersALL fish tanks must have biological filtration, that is use bacteria to decompose the toxic ammonia that builds up from fish wastes.This will take place in the substrate (bottom material) of your tank.Three types:biologicalmechanicalchemicalChemical filtration can remove ammonia, heavy metals, and dissolved organics by combining them with activated carbon.Mechanical filtration traps particles before they decompose into ammonia, like plant leaves and food particles (mulm). The above filter will do this to a degree. YOU must regularly use a net to do the rest.
7V. Gravel (Substrate) Serves three (3) major purposes: decoration biological filter (bacteria live here!)provides hold for possible plantsWhat to use:NO plastic coated gravel (bacteria won’t live on it, then no biological filtration = bad!)crushed coral or shells - excellent, but must be thoroughly washed first to reduce leaching of carbonates which will change the pH level of the watersand - also excellent, harder to clean, can buy as “live” with bacteria
8VI. DecorationWhen buying, make sure that it says, “Safe for saltwater aquariums.”No wood, as it may leach substances into the water and change the pH.Most plastics, glass, and ceramics are inert and safe.Any naturally occurring objects like rocks, shells, or corals may be used if sterilized first by boiling or soaking in a 10% bleach solution.
9VII. Lights and Hood A. Hood prevents fish and other critters from escapingkeeps water from evaporating so quicklykeeps salt spray from building up on outside of tank and adjacent areasA simple hood is just a piece of Plexiglas with a notch for the filter.B. Lightsbring out the colors of your fishIf you have plants, provides necessary energy for growthMost fish don’t like bright lights, so no light or only low-watt fluorescent bulbs should be used
10VIII. Air Pumps IX. Stands simply bubbles air into the water provides dissolved oxygen for animals to breathIt is NOT necessary if your tank maintains adequate water movement together with surface agitation (provided by the falling water from the filter).IX. Standsmost tanks will be on the counter in the classroomsome tanks may need metal standsmake sure stand is level and tank is centeredBIG messes and injuries can occur if care is not takenNEVER move a tank when it is full of water!!!***
11X. Cleaning EquipmentSiphoning is the easiest way to remove water from a tankWhen no siphon is available, small buckets will do the trickplastic, non-soapy scouring pads are good for scrubbing algae from the sides of tanks; magnetic ones are good for keeping hands and arms dryan old toothbrush can come in handy for cleaning algae and salt deposits from decorations and filter parts.Large 5-gallon buckets are necessary for water changes
12XI. NetsNetting fish is stressful; it removes scales and some of the protective mucus coating over the scalesIf possible, use the net to chase the fish into a small plastic or glass jar.
13XII. Test Kits NH absolutely necessary to test water weekly ammonia, nitrates, nitrites, conductivity (salinity), and pH should all be tested4A. AmmoniaTwo uses:- tell you when the first phase of the nitrogen cycle has completed- if there are unexplained fish deaths, testing for ammonia (NH4) verifies that your biological filter is (or is not) working correctly
14Common causes for the mechanical filter to weaken or fail outright: not cleaning the filter regularly (water can’t flow through a clogged filter, where the nitrifying bacteria reside)naively adding fish medicines (antibiotics kill nitrifying bacteria, as well as disease carrying ones)having too small a filter for the fish loadIf you have fish dying in your tank, the first question your teacher will ask is, “What are your levels?”
15Time for a water change and to identify the source! NH4 levels are measured in ppm (parts per million).At concentrations as low as ppm (for some fish), NH4 causes rapid death. Even at levels above ppm, fish will be stressed.Therefore, test kits should NEVER detect NH4 in an established tank. If your test kit detects NH4, levels are too high and are stressing your fish.Stressed fish?Time for a water change and to identify the source!
16B. NitriteThe only time a nitrite (NO2) kit provides information that an ammonia kit can’t is while testing for completion of the second phase of the nitrogen cycle.If your kit detects nitrite, then your biological filter is not working adequately.Once a tank has cycled, nitrite kits are pretty much useless.NO2Nitrite is less toxic than ammonia. But even at levels of 0.5 ppm, fish become stressed. At ppm, concentrations become lethal.IF THE BIOFILTER IN AN ESTABLISHED TANK ISN’T WORKING, BOTH NH4 AND NO2 LEVELS WILL BE ELEVATED.
17C. NitrateNitrate levels increase over time in established tanks as the end result of the nitrogen cycle.Because nitrates become toxic at high concentrations, they must be removed periodically through regular water changes.Nitrates become toxic to fish (and plants) at levels of ppm, depending on fish species.NO3
18D. pHper hydrogen ionacidity/alkalinity of the waterneed to check the pH of our tap waterneed to periodically check the tank’s pH so that you can be sure it stays stable and doesn’t increase or decrease significantly over timeIn some cases, tank decorations or gravel change the pH of your water.
19XIII:Like all living creatures, fish give off waste products. This cycle is the biological process that breaks down nitrogenous wastes into harmless nitrogen compounds.
20Don’t overfeed them! More food means more NH4. A. Where do we get the bacteria?The desired species of nitrifying bacteria are present everywhere. Therefore, once you have an NH4 source in your tank, it’s only a matter of time before the desired bacteria establish a colony in your gravel bed.Nitrifying BacteriaThe most common way to do this is to place one or two hardy and inexpensive fish in your aquarium. The fish waste contains NH4 on which the bacteria live.Don’t overfeed them! More food means more NH4.Damselfish are suggested for marine tanks or better yet, fish you catch in the bay or gulf! BETTER YET: LIVE ROCK*
22During the cycling process, ammonia levels will go up and then suddenly plummet as the nitrite-forming bacteria take hold. Because nitrate-forming bacteria don't even begin to appear until nitrite is present in significant quantities, nitrite levels skyrocket (as the built-up ammonia is converted), continuing to rise as the continually-produced ammonia is converted to nitrite. Once the nitrate-forming bacteria take hold, nitrite & ammonia levels fall, nitrate levels rise, and the tank is fully cycled.
23XIV: Basic Water Chemistry Water in nature is rarely pure in the "distilled water" sense; it contains dissolved salts, buffers, nutrients, etc., with exact concentrations dependent on local conditions.Water has four measurable properties that are commonly used to characterize its chemistry:- pH: should remain between 6.5 and 7.5- buffering capacity (alkalinity): water’s ability to keep the pH stable- general hardness: dissolved concentration of magnesium andcalcium ions- salinity (conductivity): refers to the total amountof dissolved solids, measured with a hydrometer, alsoreferred to as specific gravity( s.g. Or 27 ppt to 32 ppt)
24XV: Water TreatmentTap water is the cheapest source of H2O for your tank.Local companies add chemicals to it to make it safe to drink: chlorine, chloramine, fluoride, phosphates, pH raising chemicals.Therefore, it MUST be treated before it is used in your tank.A. Chlorinehigh concentration is toxic to fish ppm and uplow concentrations, stresses fish by damaging gills - < ppmcan be removed by adding sodium thiosulfate - 1 drop/gallon H2Ocan be removed easier by allowing H2O to sit for 24 hours - Cl escapes into the atmosphere all on its own (use air hose)
25B. Chloraminemuch more stable than chlorineproducts like AmQuel neutralize the chlorine and ammoniaThe active ingredient in AmQuel is known chemically as sodium hydroxymethanesulfonate, HOCH2SO3Na.
26XVI: Adding and Feeding Fish So you’ve got your tank set up, filter running, nitrogen cycle established, testing kits learned, and lots of practiced knowledge.Now what?!Time to get fish!
27A. Selecting “Good” Fish You want fish that are:- inexpensive- hardyYour best bet is going to the beach/bay/gulf and catching a few with a net, a trap, or a pole. These are “wild” fish and are used to a wide variety (compared to a tank) of salinities, temperatures, and microbes.You will need to bring a bucket with a top, and an aerator to keep the water oxygenated for the trip back to school or overnight until the next school day.Care must be taken to keep the fish (or other organisms like crabs, clams, sea stars, sea urchins, worms, etc. that you WILL find at the beach) alive until it can be “transplanted” to your tank.
28You can also purchase saltwater fish from a local aquarium supplier: Damselfish are a good “starter fish” (also called “suicide fish” or “disposables”) and are relatively cheap.DO NOT buy the prettiest tropical fish for your tank to start - THEY WILL DIE!More hardy fish, like damsels or Chromis', members of the Family Pomacentridae, are actually in the same family as clownfish but usually the two are separated into anemonefish (clownfish), and damselfish.Most of the fish in the family Pomacentridae can become territorial (aggressive) when they get older. Among the exceptions to this are the Green Chromis, the Blue reef Chromis, and the skunk clown.
29Now some of you are going to say, “but these fish are so plain looking Now some of you are going to say, “but these fish are so plain looking.” Yes they can be, but once the tank has cycled and allowed to run for a month or so after that, you can trade them in at your local fish store or give them to someone else who may be starting a new tank. THEN you can step up to one or two of the more elegant beginner fishes for aquarists in the intermediate care range.
30B. How many fish to start?A helpful rule is to add only one inch of animal for one gallon of water.- Example: If you have a 10 gallon tank, you can add 10 inchesof fish. That would be one 10 inch fish (I don’trecommend that), two 5-inch fish, three 3-inch fish,five 2-inch fish, or ten 1-inch fish.Never add new fish directly to the tank. First, put the organisms (vertebrates and invertebrates) in the plastic bag from the store on the surface of the tank water. After one-half hour they should be adjusted to the temperature of the tank water.Do not pour the water from the bag (or bay/gulf) into your tank. This might introduce disease organisms to your tank. Use a net.
31XVII: Fish Stress and Healthy Fishkeeping (Husbandry) A. What is “stress?”Example: Keeping fish in water that is cooler (or warmer) than its preferred condition forces its body organs to work harder to keep it alive.Increased stress reduces a fish’s ability to ward off diseases and heal itself (ex. Fins get nicked or parasites get introduced into the tank with new fish, etc.)Therefore, one of the most importantgoals of a fishkeeper is to removesources of stress wherever possible.
32B. Possible sources of stress - nitrogen compounds- pH- tank space- salinity- species competition- dissolved oxygen level- sudden water changes- medicating- poor nutrition- water hardness- lack of protection
33C. Common Symptoms of Stress In short, stressed fish don’t act “normal.”- fish stays near surface gasping for breath indicating that it has trouble getting enough oxygen. Possible causes are poor water circulation, toxins have damaged its gills, high ammonia or nitrate levels- fish won’t eat, or eats less aggressively as in the past- fish stays hidden (does not feel safe)- fish has nicked fins, open wounds- fish has disease (parasites, fungus, etc.)
34D. Feeding FishFish food is somewhat delicate: exposing it sunlight, leaving off the lid, or buying a large amount that won’t be used up for 8 months can sabotage the nutritional value of the it.There are 5 classes of food:- processed (flakes, sticks, pellets) and divided into categories for carnivorous, herbivorous, and omnivorous fish- freeze dried (blood worms or daphnia)- frozen foods (shrimp, etc.)- live food- other fresh (beefheart, zucchini, etc.)Usually twice a week feeding is sufficient.Be sure to clean out old uneaten food particles before feeding.
35E. Partial Water Changes: “The solution to pollution is dilution.” Water changes replace aportion of “dirty” water withan equal portion clean water,effectively diluting theconcentrations of undesirablesubstances in your tank.Regular water changes are the cheapest, safest, and most effective way of keeping nitrate concentrations at reasonable levels.The effectiveness of water changes is determined by two factors:- frequency, or how often you do them- the percentage of water replaced
36Water Changes:Benefits must be balanced by the stress causedFirst line of defense in dealing with problems & diseaseThe more frequent, the less water that needs to be replaced.You should do water changes often enough that:the change in water chemistry resulting from a change is small- nitrate levels stay at or below 50 ppmBe sure to Unplug heatertreat water before adding new
37F. What to do on vacations Healthy fish can easily go a week without foodDon’t worry about weekends (two and three days)“vacation feeders” that slowly dissolve may change the pH of your tankIf you are going away (and school isstill on) have someone feed your fish for you.If your tank has a high evaporation rate, have them “top it off” with the proper water, too.Don’t add any new fish in the month before vacationing.
38G. Moving a tankDON’T! But if you have to:- put fish in a holding container- drain the tank to less than 1/4 full- remove the filter, heater, and other apparatus you may have to avoid breakage and tripping hazards- reassemble and cleanup
39Before you go out and spend a lot of money, please plan for what you will do at the end of the school year.Ideas: start a tank of your own, give to a friend who has a tank, or release native fish.
40Tank Cleaning never use soaps or detergents use only water and a mild (10% max.) bleach solutionLarger tanks require more work than smaller tanksSmaller tanks require more work than larger tanks*Avoid all tanks less than 10 gallonsTank Cleaning
41Success and Your Grade What constitutes saltwater aquarium success? Healthy fishFish longevityAesthetically pleasing tankClean tankPatiencePreventionMaintenanceEducation